TrustFire TR-J12 Driver: Awesome news from Kaidomain

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bose301s
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TrustFire TR-J12 Driver: Awesome news from Kaidomain

So, I emailed KD about possibly getting a custom programmed version of their 5 LED Series 3-Mode Low Voltage Protection for Two li-ion Battery Circuit Board driver with modes at 100%, 75%, 50%, 30% and 5% with PWM frequency of >1kHz. Last night they emailed me this reply.

Quote:
Hi friend,

I just ask our engineer, we can make it to modes of 100%, 75%, 50%, 30% and 5% 1kHz

You just order it on http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S020167

And please remember to email me after you pay for it, I will help you arrange the order. Can send it out in 5 days.

Thank you and have a nice day!

So, it looks like we can get them custom programmed for what we want from KD!! I will be ordering one tonight for sure.

pounder
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I’ve ordered a few V2 nangj with custom modes from kd before..they were always willing to do it..good news on the J12..

E1320
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That’s incredible news, thanks for sharing.

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

bose301s
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E1320 wrote:
That’s incredible news, thanks for sharing.

Can’t tell if serious or sarcastic, darn you internet lol.
bose301s
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My driver made it to their site!!

http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020417

kramer5150
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WOW Nice work… Everyone just MAKE SURE you upgrade your springs with copper braid wire if you do this mod. The stock springs can barely take the OEM ~30W driver. Doubling that current will cook them for sure.

zeremefico
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I have a pentaled torch with 3×18650.
Does kaidomain offer a decent driver like the above, with strobeless modes?

₪₪₪₪ ΟΥΔΕΝ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΝ ΥΠΟ ΤΟΝ ΗΛΙΟ ₪₪₪₪

My YouTube channel

Flashlights & edc gear

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kramer5150
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Hopefully these pics will leave a lasting impression…
I melted my spring with the stock 30W driver. I was able to re-stretch it and add copper braid wire and all is good. I think this is a MUST-do if you are up-ing the ante to ~55W.

bose301s
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kramer5150 wrote:
Hopefully these pics will leave a lasting impression…
I melted my spring with the stock 30W driver. I was able to re-stretch it and add copper braid wire and all is good. I think this is a MUST-do if you are up-ing the ante to ~55W.

!http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/2486/dscn2443m.jpg!


Yea, I need to find where to get copper braid. Actually, any wire should do the trick, I have plenty of 12ga speaker wire that I could add into the spring.
2100
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Hi,

Sorry, not really into the scene nowadays, so i need to ask questions. Big Smile

I have a J12, so this new driver is a direct fit needing no mods?

The 5 XM-Ls in the J12 are wired in series? (i thought they were in parallel)

So this one would drive each XM-L in the J12 at about 2.5-2.8 amps? Shocked

And lastly, what would the current draw at the tail with 2S and 3S? I reckon 2S is really going to be really hard on the cells (even 26650s)

Don’t want to get the X100, so this would be great as a 5 XM-L DRY! Big Smile

kramer5150
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Hi,

Sorry, not really into the scene nowadays, so i need to ask questions.
No Problem… ask away!!

I have a J12, so this new driver is a direct fit needing no mods?
That still remains to be seen for sure. It definitely looks like a drop in replacement, or near-to that with a little file/dremel work.

The 5 XM-Ls in the J12 are wired in series? (i thought they were in parallel)
They are DEFINITELY series wired.

So this one would drive each XM-L in the J12 at about 2.5-2.8 amps?
Thats what it claims, but again… that remains to be seen.

And lastly, what would the current draw at the tail with 2S and 3S? I reckon 2S is really going to be really hard on the cells (even 26650s)
If its anything like the OEM stock driver in the J12, its a regulated boost circuit. It takes either 8.4-12.6V and boosts it up to about 15-16V for the 5-XML in series. So its lowest current draw will be with fresh 4.2V cells. The stock TR-J12 draws about 29 Watts (3.5A at 8.4V). Stock driver current draw increases (substantially) as the cell voltage drops in order to maintain the ~29 Watt pull. I have measured peak current at ~6.5-7A when my 26650 cells deplete.

Transposing that over to this new driver that pulls ~55W, equates to a 6.5 current draw at 8.4V (55W / 8.4). If its designed like the OEM J12 driver, current pull will increase as cell voltage drops in order to maintain a ~55W pull.

Don’t want to get the X100, so this would be great as a 5 XM-L DRY!
I kind of see it like that too… short burst only at the highest settings.

bose301s
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Yea, the 100% will be a minute or 2 at max, 75% could be for maybe 5-10 minutes, 50% will be closest to the max on the J12 as it is stock so will probably use that most. Also, like I said, PWM frequency is 1 kHz on these 5 mode ones, so should not see much if any PWM flicker on the lower modes, unlike the stock driver Smile

2100
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Hi Kramer, how do you twist this portion off? It’s very tight, and i could not do it even with rubber gloves.

kramer5150
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2100 wrote:
Hi Kramer, how do you twist this portion off? It’s very tight, and i could not do it even with rubber gloves.

!http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/5381/dscn2427j.jpg!

Yeah I used rubber gloves, gripped it and gave it a twist. The rubber gasket makes a TIGHT seal and they dont lube it or anything so its on there TIGHT.

Ilshat
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Sorry for my English.
Some thoughts about the driver of the “Kaidomain”.
The most important thing is to protect against overheating above 50-55C

I tried to connect a 12V car battery. Currents immediately begin to fall, after 4 min current is 1.2 A (14.4 W to the driver). Dipped into the water head torch, the current up to 2A (24W to the driver).

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Wow! thanks for sharing those thermal images lishat, and welcome to BLF! Can you please share information about your thermal imaging setup?

flashrider
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Ilshat wrote:
Sorry for my English.
Some thoughts about the driver of the “Kaidomain”.
The most important thing is to protect against overheating above 50-55C

I tried to connect a 12V car battery. Currents immediately begin to fall, after 4 min current is 1.2 A (14.4 W to the driver). Dipped into the water head torch, the current up to 2A (24W to the driver).

Welcome to BLF

Please tell us for thermal camera setup and about measurement. What I can see you noticed high temps around 62. It is at 100% power from driver or lesser?

kramer5150
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WOW thats some impressive analysis… 19C increase at the 6:00 mark.

x2… was that done using the 100% setting? I would expect higher than 50C with a ~55-60 Watt driver.

jaynick
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cant wait to see lumen measurements with the new driver installed.

also that thermal imaging is awesome!

Shadowww
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Is 60°C worth worrying about, considering max. operating temp for XM-L’s is 150°C?

2100
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Looks like 2:00 runs are pretty good with this new driver. Something like the DRY. Big Smile

raccoon city
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It's good to have you here, Ilshat!

Best0270

attitude
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can we just like stick whole bunch of copper wires in the springs and stick bunch of solder in there almost making it solid ? lol Silly

weird i just get addicted to flashlight like in a blink of an eye.

Ilshat
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Flashlight working at maximum capacity, here are the LEDs on the thermogram of the time.

Installation on the thermal camera was by default, “factor of the black body ɛ = 0,97” “70% humidity.” I do not know what “factor of the black body” at the LEDs, torch, probably between 0.8 and 0.95. The following thermograms at different «ɛ».

Ilshat
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I measured the currents in dependence on the heating flashlight. Household devices are not calibrated, but quite accurate.

After heating the flashlight I dropped it in cool water.

Diagram of currents from the car battery 12.5 V.

I do not know what it means 7A (7A * 12.5 V = 87.5 W) O_o

kramer5150
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So at the ~1 minute mark, power draw drops to 31.5 Watts, and for most of the run its drawing less than 25W.

Is that the drivers thermal regulation kicking in?

Ilshat
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kramer5150 wrote:

Is that the drivers thermal regulation kicking in?


Yes, it’s driver from Kaidomain
2100
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X100 doing 38W, with 2S! And its a 7 x XM-L so that’s even more efficiency. Calculated from ergotelis measurements then it could be 3800 lumens OTF in real life.

Not sure if i can stick the J12 tube into the X100 head. It looks like it though…..

Looks like the X100 has something like the 7 LED driver version.

attitude
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so the j12 and x100 only differs the head cause of 7 vs 5 leds ? but the x100 loooks alot brighter isnt it mayb because of the wide head or better drivers ?

weird i just get addicted to flashlight like in a blink of an eye.

2100
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attitude wrote:
so the j12 and x100 only differs the head cause of 7 vs 5 leds ? but the x100 loooks alot brighter isnt it mayb because of the wide head or better drivers ?

5 LEDs -> 7 LEDs has a bit of advantage due to efficiency. Eff slowly goes down as you approach 3A, esp so from 2A to 3A range. (check out the graph). It is not a lot, but every bit counts for us flashaholics. Smile

Wider head maintains the reflector size (more or less) so that the hotspot size is the same but now you have 7 instead of 5…something like that.

More powerful driver – yes. Say, you have 1.7A to 7 XM-Ls now, instead of 1.6A to 5 XM-Ls.

Everything adds up. It seems that the X100 pumps out even more power with 2-cells/2S compared to 3-cells/3S. 3S gives you about 3300 lumens OTF with 33W at the tail. 2S measures 38W but no OTF measurements.

Check the Monster light X100 thread, dong changed that to the KD 7-LED driver! (41-42W)

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comparison pics of modded & unmodded j12? Underwater lithium flashlight, now that’s scary!

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

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