Review: NANJG 105A 2800mA driver

193 posts / 0 new
Last post
pipopopo
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 12/23/2010 - 15:07
Posts: 189
Location: EU

///What is "blink confirmation"?

After 2 seconds in a new mode it blinks once  (turns off for a milisecond) as an indication that it remembers the setting the next time you put the flashlight on.

///The linear regulators are pretty accurate in letting exactly 2800mAh through as long as the battery can deliver 2800mAh and there are not bad connections or undersized leads to the LED. I'd suspect the multimeter leads too, partly because 3A seems low for direct drive of an XM-L. Other people have been getting more like 4A, but it really depends on the battery.

 

Thanks, it is not the leads I now they are quite accurate. I also get 4 Amps on other XM-L (T6) lights in direct drive.

Maybe it is the T5  that does not draw as much current in dd .

 

///I guess there is some variation on the current the 7135s provide. However, I doubt I'll notice the difference in 2.8A and 2.6A by eye.

must be the sum of the components used (wires, connections, etc.) that increases the resistance. I agree the difference is next to nothing.

 

 

 

 

arenat
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 2 months ago
Joined: 11/22/2010 - 01:00
Posts: 367
Location: Argentina

Don't do direct drive with an XM-L, first you get less light at 5A than at 3A , beside that the emitter was ruined permanently after a brief test...now give at 4A less light that what before the test gave at 3A...

So bad I learn the hard way lol

Also the 'R2' from DX is in the table compared to stock RC-G2's and KD one...

pipopopo
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 12/23/2010 - 15:07
Posts: 189
Location: EU

humm disturbing

I had similar experiences with an P7 in the past (did not had the output as before, after overdriving it)

the T5 I have has a consistent output on par with my T6 leds on the same current , only it never pulles beyond the 3A (no problem though,  most standard Li-ions don't like above 2C currents) and I noticed that a  700+ lumens is too bright for close distance uses. That is why I have put the driver in the flashlight so my eyes can have some rest.

Have second thoughts about ordering those amr18650 batt. after your post though.

nazgool
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 7 months ago
Joined: 02/03/2011 - 06:00
Posts: 2
Location: EU

Hello,
I've got a question: how can I make this driver only 1 mode?
I guess I need to bypass the MCU but which  outputs of the MCU should I short circuit? 

sixty545
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 7 months ago
Joined: 10/25/2010 - 14:15
Posts: 702
Location: Denmark (GMT + 1)

nazgool wrote:

Hello,
I've got a question: how can I make this driver only 1 mode?
I guess I need to bypass the MCU but which  outputs of the MCU should I short circuit? 

If you look at the first picture, you have to connect the lowest leg on the 7135 to the right with the top of the diode just below. A blob of tin could do it.

Then I would advice you to cut the connection to the MCU pin 7 or just clip the leg. It is the leg no.2 from the left in the upper row. You can see that it is connected to the blob of tin you just applied.

If you do not cut that leg, the MCU will struggle to pull the voltage down and use a lot of current maybe even give some smoke.

So you see it is quite easy, blob and cut.. Just be sure that it is really the 105A that you have.

Good soldering and welcome to the forum, hope you enjoy it.

nazgool
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 7 months ago
Joined: 02/03/2011 - 06:00
Posts: 2
Location: EU

thanks a lot, I'm already enjoying the forum a little while and it's my favourit Smile

I will use this driver to build 1 mode flashlight based on L2 with an XML T6 and current 2,1A (for longer use considering the heat dissipation issue).

I'll also try to change the programm in the MCU to customize the mid level to 1,5A (found on other topic in this forum).

fishinfool
fishinfool's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 1 month ago
Joined: 03/09/2010 - 00:30
Posts: 4342
Location: Hilo, Hawaii

Aloha and welcome to BLF nazgool!

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

Don
Don's picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 months 1 day ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 16:32
Posts: 6617
Location: Scotland

nazgool wrote:

thanks a lot, I'm already enjoying the forum a little while and it's my favourit Smile

 

Glad to hear it!

Welcome to BLF and I hope you continue to enjoy your visits here.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Hayley
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 6 months ago
Joined: 01/24/2011 - 21:34
Posts: 89
Location: USA

Very interesting, thanks for the excellent details

Budgeteer
Budgeteer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 11 months ago
Joined: 08/24/2010 - 02:19
Posts: 3087
Location: Slovenia (EU)

nazgool wrote:

thanks a lot, I'm already enjoying the forum a little while and it's my favourit Smile

I will use this driver to build 1 mode flashlight based on L2 with an XML T6 and current 2,1A (for longer use considering the heat dissipation issue).

I'll also try to change the programm in the MCU to customize the mid level to 1,5A (found on other topic in this forum).

1st welcome nazgool!

I wonder if youre capable of running 1h nonstop at 2,1A in the l2 host without overheating? I immagine you disabled 2 amc to get to 2,1A correct? Well if you did how much does mid an low draw now?

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

LobsterX
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 2 months ago
Joined: 12/27/2010 - 06:07
Posts: 15
Location: Singapore

Nautic wrote:

I have just got the 105C 5-mode version and it does not have the "blink".

 

 

Where did you get this 105C version?

Your ATTITUDE Determines Your ALTITUDE

Nautic
Nautic's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 3 months ago
Joined: 02/14/2010 - 14:01
Posts: 992
Location: Europe

At KD.

Cheap quality is good - Expensive crap isn´t

LobsterX
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 2 months ago
Joined: 12/27/2010 - 06:07
Posts: 15
Location: Singapore

Nautic: could you post a clear pic of both the front and the back of this 105C driver?

Your ATTITUDE Determines Your ALTITUDE

Nautic
Nautic's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 3 months ago
Joined: 02/14/2010 - 14:01
Posts: 992
Location: Europe

LobsterX wrote:

Nautic: could you post a clear pic of both the front and the back of this 105C driver?

 

I cant show the led side as it sits in the pill, but the batteryside is here:

 

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/2784/driverz.jpg

 

Cheap quality is good - Expensive crap isn´t

pounder
pounder's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 01/20/2011 - 16:43
Posts: 1788
Location: Ontario

how do you remove the modules to lower amperage? is it just as simple as desoldering the right amount of modules? does it matter which ones? I want to drive an xpg with this driver..do I remove 4 modules to make 1.4a? can the xpg take 1.75a with 3 modules removed?

thanks

Nautic
Nautic's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 3 months ago
Joined: 02/14/2010 - 14:01
Posts: 992
Location: Europe

Cheap quality is good - Expensive crap isn´t

pounder
pounder's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 01/20/2011 - 16:43
Posts: 1788
Location: Ontario

thanks Nautic..I already ordered the 2800mah one..wish I would have known about this driver before..so to mod the 2800mah one is it just deoldering the modules? if I mess it up ill just order that 1400 mah one..

 

edit: the ebay driver seems to be 1-mode correct? I needed multi-mode so this wouldn't have worked..

Nautic
Nautic's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 3 months ago
Joined: 02/14/2010 - 14:01
Posts: 992
Location: Europe

KD has this http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=9606

Looks like a 3-mode. You have to solder the amc7135 here though.

Cheap quality is good - Expensive crap isn´t

pounder
pounder's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 01/20/2011 - 16:43
Posts: 1788
Location: Ontario

so it doesn't matter what slots you take out or put in with these drivers? I have the 2800mah one on the way so I can just take off 4 chips and it will run 1400 mah?

brted
brted's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 1 week ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 19:44
Posts: 2371
Location: Atlanta

That's right. They are all in parallel.

pounder
pounder's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 01/20/2011 - 16:43
Posts: 1788
Location: Ontario

perfect thanks!

mizjif
mizjif's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 11 min ago
Joined: 09/23/2010 - 03:13
Posts: 1981
Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada

I am a newb to this, but I have decided to attempt the driver swap this evening. I have a couple questions:

 

1. Will the driver work fine with the small spring that was provided with the driver? or did you swap a bigger spring on?

2. Which of the holes is positive and which is negative?

3. Do you have any more pictures of this driver installed, or pictures during installation that I can use as reference?

 

Thanks again for any help!

LobsterX
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 2 months ago
Joined: 12/27/2010 - 06:07
Posts: 15
Location: Singapore

mizjif wrote:

I am a newb to this, but I have decided to attempt the driver swap this evening. I have a couple questions:

 

1. Will the driver work fine with the small spring that was provided with the driver? or did you swap a bigger spring on?

Driver will work fine with the spring removed. The only question is weather the battery can make contact with the driver when the spring is removed.

 

mizjif wrote:
2. Which of the holes is positive and which is negative?

What holes? the center circle connects to the battery + and the outer circle connects to the battery -

 

mizjif wrote:
3. Do you have any more pictures of this driver installed, or pictures during installation that I can use as reference?

 

Thanks again for any help!

 

I don't take pictures when I install/solder a driver. can't multi-task (yet)

Your ATTITUDE Determines Your ALTITUDE

mizjif
mizjif's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 11 min ago
Joined: 09/23/2010 - 03:13
Posts: 1981
Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada

When I am soldering the pos. wire and neg. wire from the emitter to the new driver, there are 3 holes on the driver.  Which of the three are the neg, and pos that I need to solder the wires too?  

 

the three holes are holes to recieve the pos and neg. wires correct? as seen here:

 

P1000131.jpg

brted
brted's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 1 week ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 19:44
Posts: 2371
Location: Atlanta

mizjif wrote:

1. Will the driver work fine with the small spring that was provided with the driver? or did you swap a bigger spring on?

Works fine with the little spring. I don't know that you could fit a bigger spring on there which is why they include the little one.

mizjif wrote:
2. Which of the holes is positive and which is negative?

The holes aren't anything. If you look at the first picture in this thread, the positive is a little solder pad on the lower right, marked +. The negative is a little solder pad on the upper left. Those are for the leads that go to the LED.

mizjif wrote:
3. Do you have any more pictures of this driver installed, or pictures during installation that I can use as reference?

Here's a picture of a very similar driver with the leads installed:

http://budgetlightforum.cz.cc/node/289

NANJG 101-AK Driver

Good luck on your driver swap! These boards are just ridiculously small and can be really hard to get soldered without burning other components or just missing the pad altogether. Try to test it once you get the leads on before you put the driver in the pill.

 

mizjif
mizjif's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 11 min ago
Joined: 09/23/2010 - 03:13
Posts: 1981
Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada

Bah, upon closer inspection I realized the holes where nothing lol. My bad.  Thankyou for the help brted!!

Nautic
Nautic's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 3 months ago
Joined: 02/14/2010 - 14:01
Posts: 992
Location: Europe

I had to make the small spring a little longer to make it work in a P60 dropin.

I just bended a piece of cobberwire, stuck it in the spring and soldered it to it,

so it had the lengh needed.

Cheap quality is good - Expensive crap isn´t

Budgeteer
Budgeteer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 11 months ago
Joined: 08/24/2010 - 02:19
Posts: 3087
Location: Slovenia (EU)

When i don't use a spring i put a solder blob on the pad. Be sure to not mess with it and do it quick. Works fine with flat head bateries. It's not a very good approach but i did not had any troubles so far from the solder oxidation yet, You can also use a tiny copper or brass (less oxidation issues) spacer if you so desire but make sure the tailcap have a spring. When doing high currents might be a good idea to avoid the excessively tiny/skinny springs. The normal ones are just fine, trim them if space is lacking. Be sure to not have the trimmed spring scratch the battery, bend the edge to the inside a bit.

Do it reasonably quick and don't overdue the heating. Pointy soldering iron tips are preferred. Good solder with some lead and flux is the best and melt pretty quickly.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

pounder
pounder's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 01/20/2011 - 16:43
Posts: 1788
Location: Ontario

just soldered an xml with this driver..first ever..it was really easy..I was impressed with my rookie skills..the leads were not connected on my driver, so I had to solder them on myself..I used a piece of 14 gauge copper wire to make the positive connection to the battery from the srping..it didn't work with just the spring..it was a great time soldering..I really enjoyed it..

as far as the driver function goes I really hate the 2 secs on for mode memory..I have never had a driver like this and it's really backwards to me..hopefully I get used to it..

brted
brted's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 1 week ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 19:44
Posts: 2371
Location: Atlanta

I don't like it either, but I think all of the NANJG drivers are the same way (I've gotten used to leaving the light on for a couple of seconds whenever I use it). The micro-controller can't remember the mode after you cut power to it, so it remembers it after it has been on for 2 seconds. I like lights that remember the last mode after they are Off for maybe 0.5 to 1 second, but I think you have to have a capacitor or something that will maintain power to the controller after power is cut in order to do that.

Pages