Review: UltraFire HD2010

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joerch
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Thx, ordered

Gerbs
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Well, ordered the FandyFire one from DX.

As well as batteries, and 18650 battery holders, as we just can’t get them here in NZ.

Under $60 for the whole order, totally stoked!

Will take some measurements and keep ya’ll posted when it all turns up.

cainn
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My black HD2010 is here. Ordered on the 10th, arrived on the 26th, from Tmart. Only a few very minor dings on the body, which really aren’t noticeable at all unless you’re looking for them.

This is my first HD2010 and I’m very impressed with it. After modding it with a T6 3C I’m even more impressed. I’ve kept the stock driver in it for now which pulls a ridiculous 5+ amps at the tail from a freshly charged Panasonic 18650 (no doubt less than that of course when the switch is in place), but I’m planning on replacing it soon with something more suitable (should be an interesting exercise actually considering the format of the pill).

My only complaint is that the 18650 to 26650 adapter tube is a loose fit and therefore moves and rattles around inside the body. It’s easily fixed of course, but a flaw nonetheless.

CheapThrills
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If I have time this weekend, I will solder an U3 to this host. Copperbase should ease up the thermal sag but what do you Pro’s think:
should I get better driver for high power also or consider makin copper pill? (friend has a small lathe).
Or is it, that the copper star is most important and copper pill merely overkill?

MRsDNF
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CheapThrills wrote:
If I have time this weekend, I will solder an U3 to this host. Copperbase should ease up the thermal sag but what do you Pro's think: should I get better driver for high power also or consider makin copper pill? (friend has a small lathe). Or is it, that the copper star is most important and copper pill merely overkill?

Foy has the light output sag listed in his first post with the stock pill, led and driver.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

CheapThrills
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MRsDNF wrote:

CheapThrills wrote:
If I have time this weekend, I will solder an U3 to this host. Copperbase should ease up the thermal sag but what do you Pro’s think: should I get better driver for high power also or consider makin copper pill? (friend has a small lathe). Or is it, that the copper star is most important and copper pill merely overkill?

Foy has the light output sag listed in his first post with the stock pill, led and driver.

Thanks!
Too bad I have no Lux meter…
Initial sag seems to be pretty high compared to what it sags later on.

Anyway, here is the pic:

Always a bit iffy to solder places with good heatsinking but this was easier.
There is plenty if extra in the Drivers cables, so I took LED aside, soldered cables first and made Thermal pasting (GC Extreme) & contact afterwards! Smile

kottero
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Hi there! I received my hd2010 today from tmart. Package was slighly damaged and lamp had scratches but that didn’t bother me after three week waiting. I installed 26650 battery and wtf?? The threads of tail cap were really tight but installed tail anyway. Now I can’t get the tail cap off.. Other thing is that only high and strobo modes are working. So now I must contact tmart and propably send the light back and wait another 3 weeks or what is their way of handling issues like this?

edit: first time I inserted battery the threads were tight, then tried 18650 battery and all modes were working, after that the jam happened when I put the 26650 battery back. Now the battery is stuck also in the lamp.. I wonder do I have to broke the lamp to get my battery off or do I have to send the whole package to tmart..

blueb8llz
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kottero wrote:
Hi there! I received my hd2010 today from tmart. Package was slighly damaged and lamp had scratches but that didn’t bother me after three week waiting. I installed 26650 battery and wtf?? The threads of tail cap were really tight but installed tail anyway. Now I can’t get the tail cap off.. Other thing is that only high and strobo modes are working. So now I must contact tmart and propably send the light back and wait another 3 weeks or what is their way of handling issues like this?

edit: first time I inserted battery the threads were tight, then tried 18650 battery and all modes were working, after that the jam happened when I put the 26650 battery back. Now the battery is stuck also in the lamp.. I wonder do I have to broke the lamp to get my battery off or do I have to send the whole package to tmart..

the same thing happened to me just the other day. i thought i was screwed too. i was able to get it loose though by spraying wd 40. see if that works for you..

clagged
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You can remove / unscrew the head from the battery tube and get the battery out.

kottero
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clagged wrote:
You can remove / unscrew the head from the battery tube and get the battery out.

Yeah!! Why didn’t that came in to my mind. Thanks!

raccoon city
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Have a nice time here, kottero!

Best0270

kottero1kottero2kottero3

Andi
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CheapThrills wrote:

Let me guess: XM-L U3 from LED-Tech? Smile


arn357
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My HD201 from Tmart sequence goes like this: Press fully to turn ON, always starts on High, half press to cycle through, Med – Low – Strobe – SOS. With flashlight turned ON, half press for at least 3 seconds on ANY mode and it will return back to high.

ryanferg wrote:
SashiX wrote:
No, that’s not “memory”. Mine does the same. When you switch between modes, you half press the button. In that moment, switch is momentary off and than on again. Normally, it should be programmed for less than a second, but some “genius” make that short period too long :bigsmile: My HD has 2 seconds delay.

If I turn mine off and leave it for like 15-20 seconds, then it will start from the beginning again. But it’s not that consistent, I can’t figure out the ‘rules’ that govern what mode it will come on next or when it ‘forgets’ . Honestly, I think mine is haunted.

Andi
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My modded HD2010 has now 120000 Lux 8)
…dedomed.

With: XM-L U2, 7135driver=3,7A, UCLp

before dedome it was 57000 Lux.


jmpaul320
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where did u get the ucl from?

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

Andi
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I buy a little bit bigger one from flashlightlens ( UCL*p* ) and use a rasp. Wink


JohnnyMac
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Andi wrote:
My modded HD2010 has now *120000* Lux 8) ...dedomed. With: XM-L U2, 7135driver=3,7A, UCLp before dedome it was 57000 Lux.
Andi, what method did you use to dedome it? I dedomed my ZY-T13 using the "run it till hot and peel off the dome with your fingernail" technique but the lux didn't change.  I still only get 39k out of it.  Horrible!!
Andi
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I use a razor blade and cut in the dome a little bit on the opposite side of the bonding wires. Then use tweezer, hold star and press the dome directly on a cookplate(full power) for 25sec.
Then lift the dome with fingernail at the cut.

Most time it works perfectly. Wink


JohnnyMac
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Andi wrote:
I use a razor blade and cut in the dome a little bit on the opposite side of the bonding wires. Then use tweezer, hold star and press the *dome* directly on a cookplate(full power) for 25sec. Then lift the dome with fingernail at the cut. Most time it works perfectly. ;)
When you say a "cookplate" are you talking about the stove top?  As in red hot glowing element?
Andi
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translator say….yes, i have a ceramic/glass stove(hob). 0:)


Ford Prefect
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I have an extra xm-l u2 on star and an HD2010 and a ceramic top stove….

Any guesses what I’m trying tonight?

Karboncraig
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Iv got a U2 led & a 4amp (intl outdoor) driver firstly will the 4a be overdriven with the U2 & secondly what’s the easiest way to sandwich the smaller driver in? This will be my first proper Mod iv only just replaced my small sun C10 driver to a 105c successfully yesterday Smile has some good THROW now! Cheers in advance for any help!

MRsDNF
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Karboncraig wrote:
Iv got a U2 led & a 4amp (intl outdoor) driver firstly will the 4a be overdriven with the U2 & secondly what's the easiest way to sandwich the smaller driver in? This will be my first proper Mod iv only just replaced my small sun C10 driver to a 105c successfully yesterday Smile has some good THROW now! Cheers in advance for any help!

Do you have a link for the driver to get an idea of the size?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Karboncraig
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MRsDNF
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Its the same driver I've had here for a couple of weeks but have not had time to use it yet. I have modified my stock pill slightly and have a driver in it at the moment so cant tell definitely if it will fit, but a quick measurement and eyeball I reckon it will squeeze in ok without any mods.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

cainn
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I have that same driver in my cart right now, with a few other bits and pieces. Haven’t pulled the trigger yet though. It seems like the perfect driver to use when you want to over-drive an XM-L, but within reason.

Karboncraig
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Nice one I will investigate soon, you guys reckon its worth swapping the current LEd for the U2? With that driver or keep current one. As for the spring can I just de solder the old one off & re-solder to that board. Or is there something else i can use for the contact?

MRsDNF
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I have had both in and the stock led if you like the tint is pretty good.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

cainn
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Karboncraig wrote:
As for the spring can I just de solder the old one off & re-solder to that board. Or is there something else i can use for the contact?

Using the old spring is probably fine, assuming the base lines up well enough with the contacts. You can pretty much make it work no matter what if you’re creative. While you’re shopping at IO though, throw an assortment of springs into you cart as well. If you’re gonna be modding, they’ll come in handy. In fact you might as well just go through the entire Torch components section and pick up at least one of anything you think you might ever need. You know, tail boots, contact PCB’s, brass pills etc. Because it sucks having to wait 2 weeks when you finally need something like that.

Most of all, have fun!

Karboncraig
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Yup realised this now i think il order a small assortment of things! Probably a new driver for one of my bike lights too as it decided to die on me last night!! Damn!! Thanks for all the advice guys too Smile

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