Trustfire x6 successfully modded by E1320 to pull 11.4A on high!

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chriscalderon
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Trustfire x6 successfully modded by E1320 to pull 11.4A on high!

Hi guys today E1320 did it again he successfully modded my x6 to pull 11.4A with a new driver i purchase of kaidomain. I can’t wait to get my hands on it. Ones again thankyou E1320 for your work and expertise! Here is a copy of what the engineer E1320 wrote to me:

I just finished your light.

Just an FYI I have an engineering degree and I have worked as a mechanic my entire adult life. The last 10 years I was the lead night shift mechanic for a Biotech company so I have lots of electrical experience. I got your light apart without breaking or damaging anything. I drilled 3 holes in the dummy plate and used a dent puller to get it out so it looks exactly the way it did when you sent it no dings dents scratches or any sign it has been tampered with. You cannot tell it from stock until you turn it on and when you do holy shit. It pulls 5.6 amps with 2 Panasonic CGR1865CH batteries these are rated for 10 amps each so that’s 11.2 amps to the emitter it’s a fucken white laser I have never seen a single emitter light this bright. I am totally blown away by this light it pulls .155 on low, 1.7 on medium and 5.6 on high with 2 batteries so corrected for 2 batteries that’s .3 amps on low, 3.2amps on medium and 11.2 amps on high. With 3 batteries it pulls .16 amps on low, 1.17amps on medium and 3.8 amps on high. Corrected for 3 batteries it’s .48 on low, 3.51amps on medium and 11.4amps on high.

You have your self quite the flame thrower here. I need to get one of these for myself were is the best place to buy one?

Edited by: chriscalderon on 07/24/2012 - 19:20
scaru
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Is the x6 a sst-90? If so where did you get it? Big Smile

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What driver did you use and what led is it driving? A SST-90?

chriscalderon
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Hi guys i purchase my x6 used of ebay for 90 dollars. It used the sst-90 emmiter and here is a link to the driver i purchase:

http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020148

fnsooner
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Oh my, I have a x6 sitting in my living room. Don’t use it much, but it is one of my favs.

Do you have a Fenix TK70 to compare it to?

weiser
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WOW! Shocked

I wonder how this compares to an Olight SR91

chriscalderon
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Sorry i dont i’m new to the flashlight world and so far here is a list of what i have so far:

trustfire x6 modded
trustfire tr-j18

fnsooner
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Thanks chris. I just registered at Kaidomain and am about to order driver.

fnsooner
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Ok, driver ordered. For those interested, here is where I purchased my light about a year and a half ago.
X6

rikr
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I want one of those now!!!

 

 

 New Collection / Old Collection

 
NightCrawl
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Holy cow. Big Smile Been thinking about an SST90 light run by an IMR cell, too.. but I think heat is an issue.

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Talk about an epic light. I reckon E has just started a frenzy (again). Any chance of some beam shots when you have it back in your hands? Thanks for sharing.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

warmurf
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Hey,

You can tell you friend that he could by these lights and mod them to these specs, then sell them. I for one would be in! A sucker for a power house SST-90!

2100
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weiser701 wrote:
WOW! Shocked

I wonder how this compares to an Olight SR91

SR90 is 100mm head diameter.
X6 is 80mm. This modded X6 probably is driven slightly more. The lens probably cuts some 5-7% more light.

No way the X6 can outthrow the SR90. Maybe just slightly under the TK70 or at best same league?

TK70 would be able to maintain the lumens better, i mean this forum is extremely familar with how triple XM-L works. The SR90 already sags even with that huge body. Check out the reviews.

Pok
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My TrustFire X6
SST-90 de-domed
2A at tailcap 3×18650 (stock driver)
4 meters = 4850 lux
.
XM-L U2
1320 mA at tailcap 3×18650
4 meters = 5400 lux
Both are hard to set better spot.
.
And modded some aspherics lenses….. more to come

Lothar
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chriscalderon wrote:
Sorry i dont i’m new to the flashlight world and so far here is a list of what i have so far:

trustfire x6 modded
trustfire tr-j18

Hi Chris

When you do get the flashlight back, please give us some beamshots between your X6 and TR-J18.

Thnx

Current Collection:

BLF: BLF-GT90, BLF-GT70 (CW Sliced), BLF GTmini, BLF-LT1; 

BTU: Shocker (3 x SST-40 @ 8A)

Solarforce: L2P (XM-L2 U3 @ 4A), MPP-1 (XP-L HI @ 6A), MPP-3 (3 x XM-L2 U2 @ 12A), M6 (Nichia 319A @ 6A), M8 (XHP-50.2 @ 9A), 9x (9 x XM-L2 U2 @ 2A)

Coming Soon: Lumintop: BLF-GT4; 

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Pok wrote:
My TrustFire X6
SST-90 de-domed
2A at tailcap
3x18650 (stock driver)
4 meters = 4850 lux .  557 ANSI meters

XM-L U2
1320 mA at tailcap
3x18650
4 meters = 5400 lux   587 ANSI meters

Both are hard to set better spot. . And modded some aspherics lenses..... more to come

With your X6 only driven at 6A, there is tons of room for improvement at 11A.  I'd love to see a lux reading with this new driver in one. Wink
2100
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JohnnyMac wrote:

Pok wrote:
My TrustFire X6
SST-90 de-domed
2A at tailcap
3×18650 (stock driver)
4 meters = 4850 lux .  557 ANSI meters

XM-L U2
1320 mA at tailcap
3×18650
4 meters = 5400 lux   587 ANSI meters

Both are hard to set better spot. . And modded some aspherics lenses….. more to come

With your X6 only driven at 6A, there is tons of room for improvement at 11A.  I’d love to see a lux reading with this new driver in one. Wink

SST-90 tops out at 9A.

VPT and similar hotrods use copper direct bonding to extract performance in the 14-15A range, but seriously tapering off already. (think stock VPT would be 13A thereabouts)
These buggers run pretty hot compared to XM-Ls.

Check this out : http://flashlightnews.net/forum/index.php?topic=2789.0
(there’s an aspheric in there)

Pok
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^
^
I’m sure that SST-90 in TrustFire X6 is not N or P bin.

I bought this host for next round LED and aspherics setup Wink

kramer5150
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chriscalderon wrote:
Hi guys today E1320 did it again he successfully modded my x6 to pull 11.4A with a new driver i purchase of kaidomain. I can’t wait to get my hands on it. Ones again thankyou E1320 for your work and expertise! Here is a copy of what the engineer E1320 wrote to me:

I just finished your light.

Just an FYI I have an engineering degree and I have worked as a mechanic my entire adult life. The last 10 years I was the lead night shift mechanic for a Biotech company so I have lots of electrical experience. I got your light apart without breaking or damaging anything. I drilled 3 holes in the dummy plate and used a dent puller to get it out so it looks exactly the way it did when you sent it no dings dents scratches or any sign it has been tampered with. You cannot tell it from stock until you turn it on and when you do holy shit. It pulls 5.6 amps with 2 Panasonic CGR1865CH batteries these are rated for 10 amps each so that’s 11.2 amps to the emitter it’s a fucken white laser I have never seen a single emitter light this bright. I am totally blown away by this light it pulls .155 on low, 1.7 on medium and 5.6 on high with 2 batteries so corrected for 2 batteries that’s .3 amps on low, 3.2amps on medium and 11.2 amps on high. With 3 batteries it pulls .16 amps on low, 1.17amps on medium and 3.8 amps on high. Corrected for 3 batteries it’s .48 on low, 3.51amps on medium and 11.4amps on high.

You have your self quite the flame thrower here. I need to get one of these for myself were is the best place to buy one?

Tailcap current draw its not an additive measurement. So 2 cells in series drawing 5.6A at the tailap is going to be exactly that, a 5.6A draw. Its incorrect to multiply the measurement by the cell count. Sames goes for 3S cells drawing 3.8A at the tailcap.

With series battery configurations the voltage of each cell is added together, not the current.

Not to dampen your excitement though. The SST90 is an impressive LED when its driven to capacity. I have been wanting to try this mod on a TR-J10. Sounds like a great DIY!!

JohnnyMac
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kramer5150 wrote:
chriscalderon wrote:
Hi guys today E1320 did it again he successfully modded my x6 to pull 11.4A with a new driver i purchase of kaidomain. I can’t wait to get my hands on it. Ones again thankyou E1320 for your work and expertise! Here is a copy of what the engineer E1320 wrote to me:

I just finished your light.

Just an FYI I have an engineering degree and I have worked as a mechanic my entire adult life. The last 10 years I was the lead night shift mechanic for a Biotech company so I have lots of electrical experience. I got your light apart without breaking or damaging anything. I drilled 3 holes in the dummy plate and used a dent puller to get it out so it looks exactly the way it did when you sent it no dings dents scratches or any sign it has been tampered with. You cannot tell it from stock until you turn it on and when you do holy shit. It pulls 5.6 amps with 2 Panasonic CGR1865CH batteries these are rated for 10 amps each so that’s 11.2 amps to the emitter it’s a fucken white laser I have never seen a single emitter light this bright. I am totally blown away by this light it pulls .155 on low, 1.7 on medium and 5.6 on high with 2 batteries so corrected for 2 batteries that’s .3 amps on low, 3.2amps on medium and 11.2 amps on high. With 3 batteries it pulls .16 amps on low, 1.17amps on medium and 3.8 amps on high. Corrected for 3 batteries it’s .48 on low, 3.51amps on medium and 11.4amps on high.

You have your self quite the flame thrower here. I need to get one of these for myself were is the best place to buy one?

Tailcap current draw its not an additive measurement. So 2 cells in series drawing 5.6A at the tailap is going to be exactly that, a 5.6A draw. Its incorrect to multiply the measurement by the cell count. Sames goes for 3S cells drawing 3.8A at the tailcap.

With series battery configurations the voltage of each cell is added together, not the current.

So why, on a light that can take one or two 18650, would it pull say 3A on a single cell and 1.5A with 2S configuration? Every light I’ve heard of that can take multiple cells is like that. As another example, a light that takes 2 or 3 cells depending on tubes used pulls 1.5A at the tail with 2 cells or 1A at the tail with 3 cells. They always add up.
kramer5150
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JohnnyMac wrote:
kramer5150 wrote:
chriscalderon wrote:
Hi guys today E1320 did it again he successfully modded my x6 to pull 11.4A with a new driver i purchase of kaidomain. I can’t wait to get my hands on it. Ones again thankyou E1320 for your work and expertise! Here is a copy of what the engineer E1320 wrote to me:

I just finished your light.

Just an FYI I have an engineering degree and I have worked as a mechanic my entire adult life. The last 10 years I was the lead night shift mechanic for a Biotech company so I have lots of electrical experience. I got your light apart without breaking or damaging anything. I drilled 3 holes in the dummy plate and used a dent puller to get it out so it looks exactly the way it did when you sent it no dings dents scratches or any sign it has been tampered with. You cannot tell it from stock until you turn it on and when you do holy shit. It pulls 5.6 amps with 2 Panasonic CGR1865CH batteries these are rated for 10 amps each so that’s 11.2 amps to the emitter it’s a fucken white laser I have never seen a single emitter light this bright. I am totally blown away by this light it pulls .155 on low, 1.7 on medium and 5.6 on high with 2 batteries so corrected for 2 batteries that’s .3 amps on low, 3.2amps on medium and 11.2 amps on high. With 3 batteries it pulls .16 amps on low, 1.17amps on medium and 3.8 amps on high. Corrected for 3 batteries it’s .48 on low, 3.51amps on medium and 11.4amps on high.

You have your self quite the flame thrower here. I need to get one of these for myself were is the best place to buy one?

Tailcap current draw its not an additive measurement. So 2 cells in series drawing 5.6A at the tailap is going to be exactly that, a 5.6A draw. Its incorrect to multiply the measurement by the cell count. Sames goes for 3S cells drawing 3.8A at the tailcap.

With series battery configurations the voltage of each cell is added together, not the current.

So why, on a light that can take one or two 18650, would it pull say 3A on a single cell and 1.5A with 2S configuration? Every light I’ve heard of that can take multiple cells is like that. As another example, a light that takes 2 or 3 cells depending on tubes used pulls 1.5A at the tail with 2 cells or 1A at the tail with 3 cells. They always add up.

In that case it would be based on the constant wattage pull of that driver circuit design. So the single cell that pulls 3A is doing 10.8W (3A x 3.6V), assuming Vbatt =3.6V from sag.

When you add a second cell in series that driver is still going to pull its ~10.8W. But you are doubling Vbatt, so the driver is going to pull less current to maintain ~10.8W.
So in that case 10.8W = XA x 7.2V
Solve for X = 1.5A

When you add the 3rd cell in series:
10.8W = xA x 10.8V
Solve for X = 1A

Its not an exact science as this, but this is a way to “ballpark” look at it. The reality is that driver efficiency varies slightly with Vbatt, so to assume its a constant 10.8W pull across its entire Vbatt range is not entirely correct.

EDIT
Oh wait a minute… Chris is talking about EMITTER current, not JUST tailcap current. Thats a different ballgame entirely. I’ll leave my commentary as is for now though, as it pertains to tailcap power consumption only.

JohnnyMac
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kramer5150 wrote:
JohnnyMac wrote:
kramer5150 wrote:
chriscalderon wrote:
Hi guys today E1320 did it again he successfully modded my x6 to pull 11.4A with a new driver i purchase of kaidomain. I can't wait to get my hands on it. Ones again thankyou E1320 for your work and expertise! Here is a copy of what the engineer E1320 wrote to me: I just finished your light. Just an FYI I have an engineering degree and I have worked as a mechanic my entire adult life. The last 10 years I was the lead night shift mechanic for a Biotech company so I have lots of electrical experience. I got your light apart without breaking or damaging anything. I drilled 3 holes in the dummy plate and used a dent puller to get it out so it looks exactly the way it did when you sent it no dings dents scratches or any sign it has been tampered with. You cannot tell it from stock until you turn it on and when you do holy shit. It pulls 5.6 amps with 2 Panasonic CGR1865CH batteries these are rated for 10 amps each so that’s 11.2 amps to the emitter it’s a fucken white laser I have never seen a single emitter light this bright. I am totally blown away by this light it pulls .155 on low, 1.7 on medium and 5.6 on high with 2 batteries so corrected for 2 batteries that’s .3 amps on low, 3.2amps on medium and 11.2 amps on high. With 3 batteries it pulls .16 amps on low, 1.17amps on medium and 3.8 amps on high. Corrected for 3 batteries it’s .48 on low, 3.51amps on medium and 11.4amps on high. You have your self quite the flame thrower here. I need to get one of these for myself were is the best place to buy one?
Tailcap current draw its not an additive measurement. So 2 cells in series drawing 5.6A at the tailap is going to be exactly that, a 5.6A draw. Its incorrect to multiply the measurement by the cell count. Sames goes for 3S cells drawing 3.8A at the tailcap. With series battery configurations the voltage of each cell is added together, not the current.
So why, on a light that can take one or two 18650, would it pull say 3A on a single cell and 1.5A with 2S configuration? Every light I've heard of that can take multiple cells is like that. As another example, a light that takes 2 or 3 cells depending on tubes used pulls 1.5A at the tail with 2 cells or 1A at the tail with 3 cells. They always add up.
In that case it would be based on the constant wattage pull of that driver circuit design. So the single cell that pulls 3A is doing 10.8W (3A x 3.6V), assuming Vbatt =3.6V from sag. When you add a second cell in series that driver is still going to pull its ~10.8W. But you are doubling Vbatt, so the driver is going to pull less current to maintain ~10.8W. So in that case 10.8W = XA x 7.2V Solve for X = 1.5A When you add the 3rd cell in series: 10.8W = xA x 10.8V Solve for X = 1A Its not an exact science as this, but this is a way to "ballpark" look at it. The reality is that driver efficiency varies _*slightly*_ with Vbatt, so to assume its a constant 10.8W pull across its entire Vbatt range is not entirely correct. **EDIT** Oh wait a minute... Chris is talking about *_EMITTER_* current, not JUST tailcap current. Thats a different ballgame entirely. I'll leave my commentary as is for now though, as it pertains to tailcap power consumption only.

3A x 4.2V = 12.6W
1.5A x 8.4v = 12.6W
1A x 12.6v = 12.6W

Six of one or a half dozen of the other. Either way yields the same wattage used based on tailcap numbers. To quote you, "Its not an exact science as this, but this is a way to "ballpark" look at it", so yes, taking the draw seen at the tail and multiplying it by the number of cells does indeed yield the same exact results. It's just a different way to reach the same conclusion and happens to be far simpler than doing it your way, IMO.

The only way it would ever differ from your formula is if each cell had a different voltage and if that was the case you'd have a whole lot more serious issues to worry about with that pipe bomb you'd be carrying.

12.6W at the tail means the emitter is getting 12.6w / 3.3v = 3.8A
Subtract 80% for driver inefficiency and you get 3.1A at the emitter.
That's an awful lot of work to figure out but at least it's pretty accurate. Or...

You could just triple the tailcap measurement (1A * 3 cells) and get 3A. WAY quicker way to get nearly the same end result and it holds true for just about all scenarios when you want a ballpark figure. Might not be the technical and scientific way to do it but it's the way it's been done as long as I've been into flashlights and it hasn't really failed any of us yet. Wink

fnsooner
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Ok, let’s stick with ballpark math and disregard efficiency of the driver at the moment so I can wrap my mind around the before and after wattage compared to each other.

If I use the math Kramer5150 is using:
3A x 4.2V = 12.6W
1.5A x 8.4v = 12.6W
1A x 12.6v = 12.6W

On three freshly charged Trustfire 3000mah cells I get a tailcap reading of 1.95A:
1.95A x 12.6v = 24.57W

Compared to E1320’s 3.8A on three cells:
3.8A x 12.6v = 47.88W

So about twice the wattage output.
Am I looking at this correctly?

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fnsooner wrote:
Ok, let’s stick with ballpark math and disregard efficiency of the driver at the moment so I can wrap my mind around the before and after wattage compared to each other.

If I use the math JohnnyMac is using:
3A x 4.2V = 12.6W
1.5A x 8.4v = 12.6W
1A x 12.6v = 12.6W

On three freshly charged Trustfire 3000mah cells I get a tailcap reading of 1.95A:
1.95A x 12.6v = 24.57W

Compared to E1320’s 3.8A on three cells:
3.8A x 12.6v = 47.88W

So about twice the wattage output.
Am I looking at this correctly?


Yes, except the math you are attributing to me is actually how Kramer5150 does it. I would have just taken Erik’s 3.8A at the tailcap and tripled it (3 cells) to get 11.4A at the driver. If you want watts then multiply that times 4.2V for 47.88 watts.

In short, Erik’s modded X6 consumes almost twice the power as stock. Definitely over driven but definitely bright.

fnsooner
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JohnnyMac wrote:
fnsooner wrote:
Ok, let’s stick with ballpark math and disregard efficiency of the driver at the moment so I can wrap my mind around the before and after wattage compared to each other.

If I use the math JohnnyMac is using:
3A x 4.2V = 12.6W
1.5A x 8.4v = 12.6W
1A x 12.6v = 12.6W

On three freshly charged Trustfire 3000mah cells I get a tailcap reading of 1.95A:
1.95A x 12.6v = 24.57W

Compared to E1320’s 3.8A on three cells:
3.8A x 12.6v = 47.88W

So about twice the wattage output.
Am I looking at this correctly?


Yes, except the math you are attributing to me is actually how Kramer5150 does it. I would have just taken Erik’s 3.8A at the tailcap and tripled it (3 cells) to get 11.4A at the driver. If you want watts then multiply that times 4.2V for 47.88 watts.

In short, Erik’s modded X6 consumes almost twice the power as stock. Definitely over driven but definitely bright.

Oops, sorry JohnnyMac. There were so many quotes within quotes that I got a little dyslexic. Edited above.

I have a direct drive Dry, a UF980L dd and a Fenix LD01 using a 10440. If I give them an 8 on a scale of 1 to10 for overdriving, what would you give this upgrade?

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sorry deleted I think i might be confused as usuall. I think that i am usuing the wrong voltage to calcualte the voltage i should use is the output of the driver not the voltage of the batteries…….. uuugggghhhhh that would make my calculations alot better… lol

If that is correct would someone please straighten me out….lol

:~

watts calculator

kramer5150
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fnsooner wrote:
Ok, let’s stick with ballpark math and disregard efficiency of the driver at the moment so I can wrap my mind around the before and after wattage compared to each other.

If I use the math Kramer5150 is using:
3A x 4.2V = 12.6W
1.5A x 8.4v = 12.6W
1A x 12.6v = 12.6W

On three freshly charged Trustfire 3000mah cells I get a tailcap reading of 1.95A:
1.95A x 12.6v = 24.57W

Compared to E1320’s 3.8A on three cells:
3.8A x 12.6v = 47.88W

So about twice the wattage output.
Am I looking at this correctly?

yep thats the gist of it. side note… these things would be a lot more straight forward if Vf and Vbatt were more constant.

chriscalderon
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As soon as i receive the head i well post beam shots. I dont understand why some people are saying the led is not receiving 11.4 amps. E1320 had test equipment to check things including the amps.

fnsooner
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chriscalderon wrote:
As soon as i receive the head i well post beam shots. I dont understand why some people are saying the led is not receiving 11.4 amps. E1320 had test equipment to check things including the amps.

I don’t think anyone is questioning E1320 at all. I completely understand what he is doing with his numbers.

Example: I have checked the tailcap amps on a single XM-L driven by a single 18650 so many times that I know if I read 4A, I know the LED is being driven hard. If I check the tailcap amps on a single XM-L driven by two 18650s, I double it to reference what I am familiar with.

I hope that makes sense.

I look forward to your beam shots and thanks for starting this thread.

JohnnyMac
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fnsooner wrote:
chriscalderon wrote:
As soon as i receive the head i well post beam shots. I dont understand why some people are saying the led is not receiving 11.4 amps. E1320 had test equipment to check things including the amps.

I don’t think anyone is questioning E1320 at all. I completely understand what he is doing with his numbers.

Example: I have checked the tailcap amps on a single XM-L driven by a single 18650 so many times that I know if I read 4A, I know the LED is being driven hard. If I check the tailcap amps on a single XM-L driven by two 18650s, I double it to reference what I am familiar with.

I hope that makes sense.

I look forward to your beam shots and thanks for starting this thread.

Yeah, Chris, no one is saying Erik’s numbers are wrong. In fact, we are supporting them.

Looking forward to those beamshots, BTW. 8)

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