Lego: E1320 modified UF-2100 vs Ultrafire C303

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Suncoaster
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Lego: E1320 modified UF-2100 vs Ultrafire C303

I discovered that the dropin created by E1320 for the UF-2100 fits the C303, with just a small dremel mod of the reflector hole.

I much prefer the C303 body to the UF-2100 for it’s shorter length, no attack bezel, and it’s groovy finish.

Has anyone else changed the UF-2100 or C303 ?

Will the switch cope ?

"In the land of the blond the one eyed man is king."

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Edited by: Suncoaster on 08/09/2012 - 21:14
Chicago X
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The stainless steel may make for a crispy critter.

http://wardogsmakingithome.org/index.html

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Suncoaster
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Yes, thanks, hadn’t really thought about that.

I like to use High most of the time too.
Maybe an excuse to get an IR thermometer !

How high can we go before the emitter or driver get damaged ?

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Suncoaster
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Actually the C303 18650 turned out to be some sort of aluminium
The C3 14500 has a Stainless Steel variant.

So hopefully heat won’t be a problem.

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Chicago X
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Good news for the (be)holder. Smile

The max junction temp of the LED is 150C, but the light would likely be too hot to hold well before that – given a decent thermal pathway.

http://wardogsmakingithome.org/index.html

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E1320
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Great info thanks for sharing.

The 14500 version of the C3 has the same pill as a R5A3 so mine has a modified 3 mode no flashy XPG in it.
I don’t own the 18650 version but this sounds really cool.

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

Suncoaster
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Wrapped the threads in foil.

Found the pill was a bit loose so wrapped one layer of aluminium foil on the threads, like plumbers tape on a tap. That made it a tight fit and will improve thermal efficiency.

It’s a nice light.

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JohnnyMac
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I find that my IR thermometer doesn’t like stainless steel very much. Too reflective perhaps.

budynabuick
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JohnnyMac wrote:
I find that my IR thermometer doesn’t like stainless steel very much. Too reflective perhaps.

Put a piece of tape on it.

Keith