New EDC 18650, the first flashlight using the new CREE XP-G2 LED @ Intl-outdoor.com

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shiner
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High mode starts to get quite warm after 3-4min, it probably shouldn’t be left on high very long. Medium looks almost as bright, without so much heat.

sontakke
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I am interested in the neutral T6 but I need to know:-
1) Does it have real memory i.e. if I set it for low, would it turn it on low even if it was off for weeks?
Even better, when I swap the battery, does it still remember the previous mode?
2) Is there PWM flicker at any mode?
3) Is it any thinner than UF2100?
4) Can I get a clip for it?

Thanks

M3TAL_L0RD
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sontakke wrote:
I am interested in the neutral T6 but I need to know:- 1) Does it have *real memory* i.e. if I set it for low, would it turn it on low even if it was off for weeks? Even better, when I swap the battery, does it still remember the previous mode? 2) Is there PWM flicker at any mode? 3) Is it any thinner than UF2100? 4) Can I get a clip for it? Thanks

1. Yes (did take battery off and put it back, remembered mode).

2. No PWM, but does "hum" on medium.

3. No, about 1mm thicker.

4. With little mod SolarForce clip will work.

sontakke
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anybody tried this? I suppose it involves using drill on your light. But unless there is room in the cap, it will be tough. Also, is it easy to drill on HA-III or does drill slip?

Another question, does it have spring in the head too? are there any beamshots of neutral T6

allan d
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Not yet, but I plan to install one on mine. I have the XML T6 3C. I will drill and tap the tail cap so I won’t need the nuts. I have switched the driver to a KD V2 6*7135. I like the very low low.

Allan

mfpmax
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Just put my Fenix TK12 clip on the light. Found a forum where they put an LD20 clip on one but it’s the same clip. Hard part is finding a site that sells the clip.

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sontakke wrote:
Another question, does it have spring in the head too?

Yes, springs on both ends.

whelibob
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didnt really understand from intl outdoor site how to change from 3-mode-group to 5-mode group. how should i do it?
and is it normal that modes go in this order: med, high, low?

allan d
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whelibob wrote:
didnt really understand from intl outdoor site how to change from 3-mode-group to 5-mode group. how should i do it? and is it normal that modes go in this order: med, high, low?

This thread explains mode changes.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/12797

My mode sequence was H-M-L.

Allan

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allan d wrote:
whelibob wrote:
didnt really understand from intl outdoor site how to change from 3-mode-group to 5-mode group. how should i do it? and is it normal that modes go in this order: med, high, low?
This thread explains mode changes. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/12797 My mode sequence was H-M-L.

Mine is L-M-H

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whelibob wrote:
didnt really understand from intl outdoor site how to change from 3-mode-group to 5-mode group. how should i do it? and is it normal that modes go in this order: med, high, low?

 You are referring to the new version - it uses a different driver, allowing the user to change modes via the UI with no need for soldering. Choice is just 2 modes now, but can be switched on the fly. Haven't done it myself, but what they are saying is switch the light to low, turn it off. When turned on, it will come up in low mode, then in 3 secs it will blink once - very quickly then turn it off then on -- this should change modes. If you don't see the 3 sec blink, you probably have the older EDC driver which is soldered in place.

sontakke
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It means it will blink every single time if I leave in low mode Sad And if I turn it off then, it will go in to strobe mode. Aaaarrrrggg, I hate this. Why can’t they leave a good three mode with memory alone? If they wanted to add the strobe, make it so that it will be almost impossible to accidentally enter in to it e.g. fast click 6 times in 2 seconds or something like that before switching in to strobe mode.

I was so close to buying this Sad

allan d
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sontakke wrote:
It means it will blink every single time if I leave in low mode Sad And if I turn it off then, it will go in to strobe mode. Aaaarrrrggg, I hate this. Why can’t they leave a good three mode with memory alone? If they wanted to add the strobe, make it so that it will be almost impossible to accidentally enter in to it e.g. fast click 6 times in 2 seconds or something like that before switching in to strobe mode.

I was so close to buying this Sad

Even though mine had the old 105c driver, I changed it to the KD V2 driver. Mine is set up L-M-H-L-M-H-strobe-SOS with no memory. And it has memory or no memory option. I am thinking about buying another one and will just buy the host and build it like I want.

Allan

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sontakke - Think the mode changing isn't that easy to do - the split second it blinks, you have to turn it off/on quickly.

allan d - Agree, I should have bought mine as just a host/parts

allan d
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Tom, you are right, there are nearly as many driver preferences as there are members here.

Trying to find the tint bin that I like combined with a driver that I like is too frustrating. I’m just going to build my own in the future.

Allan

Allan

shiner
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That’s right about changing from 3 to 5 mode, it doesn’t switch quite that easily. Took me a few tries to get 5 mode, then a few tries again back to 3 mode. It takes 3 quick on/off or something to switch. Dunno, was glad it went back to 3 mode, and it’ll likely stay there. The off/on flash in low mode is a bit surprising/annoying every time, might take getting used to.

I only have 5-6 different lights, this one I’ve had only a week or so, but it’s one of my favorites…. size, brightness, floody…

Tom E
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 Ideal light to try one of my XM-L2's I got coming in this week! T6 3C tint, but comparible to a U3 in brightness Smile (best guess for now).

 

sontakke
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I still have the classic RexLight V2 which has similar UI and it drove me nuts Sad Take that gratuitous blink out of there please!

UF-2100 has three mode with real memory and no pwm and even though build quality is sub par, I like that light.

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shiner wrote:
High mode starts to get quite warm after 3-4min, it probably shouldn’t be left on high very long. Medium looks almost as bright, without so much heat.

I tried my stock XPG outside around freezing or below. It didn’t get even warm after 5-10 min
So perfect during winter for outside.

No really I am not flashoholic! Really I am not Sad

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I bought two of these, one black with XM-L U2, and one gold with XP-G2. They’re very nice. However, the XP-G2 one has had some mode and switch issues ever since it arrived.

Sometimes it’ll turn on and operate normally. Sometimes it’ll blink quickly then turn off, or not turn on at all. Sometimes it’ll turn on and flicker at several different brightnesses without being touched. Sometimes on low it’ll blink off briefly every second or two. And when changing modes with a half-press, it’ll often rotate two or three levels per press, flicker as if shorting, or otherwise behave strangely. It seems like something inside must be cracked or shorting or otherwise damaged.

Any idea if a new switch would help, or is this more likely an issue in some other component?

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M3TAL_L0RD wrote:

sontakke wrote:
I am interested in the neutral T6 but I need to know: … 2) Is there PWM flicker at any mode? 3) … 4) Can I get a clip for it? Thanks

2. No PWM, but does “hum” on medium.

4. With little mod SolarForce clip will work.

2. Both of my EDC 18650 lights have PWM on medium and low. However, it flashes so fast I can barely see it. It’s faster than my iTP A3 EOS (final rev), which selfbuilt measured at 2.45 kHz, so I’d guess it’s at least 3 kHz. (and yes, I can see that) It’s much much nicer than the common 200 Hz PWM, and most people probably won’t notice it at all.

4. I added a SolarForce L2 clip to both of mine, and it works great! However, you must add a small spacer in the tailcap to make it contact the non-anodized part of the body. A standard paperclip works pretty well for this, if you can find just the right thickness.

(BTW, the switch/mode issues on one of my units was there before adding a clip; it’s not caused by the spacer)

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ToyKeeper wrote:
M3TAL_L0RD wrote:

sontakke wrote:
I am interested in the neutral T6 but I need to know: ... 2) Is there PWM flicker at any mode? 3) ... 4) Can I get a clip for it? Thanks

2. No PWM, but does "hum" on medium.

4. With little mod SolarForce clip will work.

2. Both of my EDC 18650 lights have PWM on medium and low. However, it flashes so fast I can barely see it. It's faster than my iTP A3 EOS (final rev), which selfbuilt measured at 2.45 kHz, so I'd guess it's at least 3 kHz. (and yes, I _can_ see that) It's much _much_ nicer than the common 200 Hz PWM, and most people probably won't notice it at all. 4. I added a SolarForce L2 clip to both of mine, and it works great! However, you must add a small spacer in the tailcap to make it contact the non-anodized part of the body. A standard paperclip works pretty well for this, if you can find just the right thickness. (BTW, the switch/mode issues on one of my units was there before adding a clip; it's not caused by the spacer)

Yeah, it does have 4.5kHz PWM which is so high I count it as no PWM Laughing

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M3TAL_L0RD wrote:

Yeah, it does have 4.5kHz PWM which is so high I count it as no PWM Laughing


It still makes a difference in terms of efficiency and beam tint though, as well as how motion looks. I think the only torch I have with true current-regulated constant output is my Zebralight.

If it’s really 4.5 kHz, I’m a little disturbed that I can still see it. That sort of frequency should be heard, not seen…

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ToyKeeper wrote:
M3TAL_L0RD wrote:

Yeah, it does have 4.5kHz PWM which is so high I count it as no PWM Laughing

It still makes a difference in terms of efficiency and beam tint though, as well as how motion looks. I think the only torch I have with true current-regulated constant output is my Zebralight. If it's really 4.5 kHz, I'm a little disturbed that I can still see it. That sort of frequency should be heard, not seen...

Efficiency is slightly worse, but no tint shift. I can't see any PWM against computer fan. Do you have older driver with stars or newer 3/5 mode? I have old one.

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Buy the host kit, fit this driver for xm-l series emitters

http://www.intl-outdoor.com/ld25-26a-35modes-circuit-board-p-414.html

And this driver for xp-g series emitters

http://www.intl-outdoor.com/ld25-2a-35modes-circuit-board-p-415.html

I really really like these drivers for an edc, I have the option of the flashy modes if I need them, it has true memory, and they are current controlled on all levels, since much of my work involves fans and engines, its nice not seeing things strobing in lower modes. Pwm doesn’t bother me, but its still nice to have it eliminated and in this size of host, 2.6a is all you really need going to an xm-l, 2a is overkill on an xp-g but they accept it, and give a nice amount of throw.

Personally, I’d now try to get the 2 series of both xm-l and xp-g, as they are not so expensive and give higher output for the same input, but I don’t believe anyone would be unhappy with the older emitters, tint wise, I’m liking the 4c tint in xp-g and 3c tint in xm-l is acceptable, I still need to try an xm-l 4c.

It should also be noted, fasttech is keeping the convoy series of lights in a huge selection of drive currents and tints. I love intloutdoor, and tend to order there over anywhere else, but fasttech’s pricing is hard to ignore.

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M3TAL_L0RD wrote:
Do you have older driver with stars or newer 3/5 mode? I have old one.

I have a 3/5 mode XM-L and 3-mode-only XP-G2. The 3/5 mode one is nice, aside from the mandatory blink on low. However, that’s not so bad, and it verifies to me each time that I’m on the level I expected. It’s nice to have the option of flash/SOS without having it in the main sequence when I don’t want it.

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gords1001 wrote:
Buy the host kit, fit this driver for xm-l series emitters …

Thanks. I don’t really see any problem with what I’ve got now though, aside from some flaky behavior on one of the lights. The PWM doesn’t bother me, even though I can see it. That link does explain one of the weird behaviors I’ve seen though… sometimes my XP-G2 light will turn on at low then blink off quickly every second or two. It seems this is the driver’s response to low voltage. Something inside apparently isn’t connecting reliably.

What I don’t know yet is whether this is caused by the switch, the driver, or some other component.

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I finally got my EDC 18650. It’s a black one with the convoy s3 marking. It isn’t as bright as I expected for around 700 lumens since it seems to be around as bright as my PD30.

I ordered one with the XM-L U2, is there any way to tell if I got what I ordered? Thanks.

Chuck Roxas

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If you post a picture of the LED we can confirm that it is a XM-L. May I ask what battery you are using in it?

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singularity35 wrote:
I finally got my EDC 18650. It’s a black one with the convoy s3 marking. It isn’t as bright as I expected for around 700 lumens since it seems to be around as bright as my PD30.

I ordered one with the XM-L U2, is there any way to tell if I got what I ordered? Thanks.


The LED should look like this:

He also offers the XP-G2 emitter in those lights, which looks like this:

Other common types are XP-E and XP-G, shown in that order here:

As for the “U2” part, you probably can’t tell without taking the torch apart to look directly at the emitter star.

About brightness, do you mean the center of the beam isn’t as intense as you expected, or that it’s dimmer in a ceiling bounce test? I looked up the PD30’s specs and it’s rated at 145m of throw. That works out to 5256cd, which is approximately what I’d expect from an XM-L EDC18650. The PD30 has a much more focused beam, while the EDC is more floody. However, the EDC should light up the rest of a room much better than the PD30 does.

If you could put a bigger reflector on the EDC18650, it would produce a much brighter, smaller hotspot. For example, the XinTD C8 has roughly the same lumen output, but its beam is 4X to 5X as intense. Or the HD2010… again, similar total lumens, but it gets ~50k cd instead of 5k cd because it has a much bigger reflector.

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