It is better to buy a flashlight looking standard as the ebay or buy an special flashlight format (see as the IST and SLX-800t) ?
You can also make me suggestions for other flashlight model
Minimum Lumens is 600Lm (but if possible, Real Lumens, not over estimation from manufactured) (exept certain manufacturer, The sunwayman V60 Seem have his 700 lumens rated)
I prefer if possible, to adjust the light output of the flashlight (steepless magnetic switch or other Adjusting brightness swich)
the Xtar D10 seems Good, but it is a real 800 lumens?
The Inconvenient of these flashlight is the burn time, it’s low in high power, the type flashlight with handle (the first I put (www.scuba.com) ) have more burn time due to big battery.
But the Xtar D10 is a good alternative.
(i prefear for diving the other flashight model (it’s more professional),if you know of another model of the same type are, I gladly take
That scuba light actually had the same runtime apparently on high, 2 hours. And the Xtar should be more efficient being that it’s xml, giving 152 lumens per watt. While the xpg, or whatever led the scuba light is, is not as efficient as the xml.
But it’s really not that possible to have 800 lumens for 2 hours on 6 aa. Some zebralight is THE most efficient aa light, and it makes like 250 lumens for 30 minutes or something. And I believe that’s on the most efficient xml. So if you used, and alkalines actually get way less capacity at high amp draws.
yeah you don’t need to pay a lot to get a good dive light. I have several and the Chinese ones are fine. The UI (user interface) is probably one of the most important things for people.
Also I recommend when you get a dive light to make sure everything is screwed snug and use silicon grease on the o-rings seals. Then just periodic maintenance and it should be good.
BTW that $215 Xtar you mentioned can be found cheaper here.
Like was already shown, the new Xtar D06 and D10 both have the variable brightness level which you may like. And it’s XM-L driven at a descent amperage so it should be bright. I also like lights that run on Li-ion 18650s because they have a lot of energy.
I don’t like the first couple lights you mentioned (hereIST because you have to hold on to them the whole dive.
I prefer lights which I can clip off to my D-ring. Like this PIC.
At max output the XP-G LED runs at half the amperage as the XM-L and puts out about half the lumens. All things being equal the XP-G will have a smaller hotspot than the XM-L, so it can throw pretty descent. Recently the XP-G2 came out and it’s more efficient. I always prefer more output so I like the XM-L.
BTW except for my canister light, all my smaller lights get used more.
The Xpg is just an older led that cree makes. It’s pretty much a scaled down xml that’s less efficient than the xml too. The xpg puts out around 300-500lumens if driven well, the xml can put out 1000. The xml puts out 152 lumens per watt, the xpg puts out 93 lumens per watt.
So the first couple lights i have mentioned have XPG LED, It’s a pity.
How many Watt is the Xtar D10?
And what about the “Traxons Solar Pro Scuba” ?
(in fact, I seek the most powerfull dive light that illuminate better seabed)
So I thought the big lights that I described in the first was the most efficient and professional. but since I did not know very well, that is why I ask your advice
Do you mean you need 5 flashlights, or do you mean the source you found will sell them to you only if you buy at least 5 flashlights?
Either way, from what I’ve seen, the D35 should be released soon, and when it’s released you should be able to buy as many or as few as you want. If you want to see reviews, just look for all the reviews of the production model XTAR S1. The XTAR D35 is almost the same as the production S1, but better:
it’s shorter
it has more fixed output modes
the control ring is shaped better for gripping underwater or with gloves on
Seems bee a good flashlight but i dont know what is the SST-90 LED and it is powerfull and it is real 2200 Lumens
And, for diving, is best to have long range flashlight or avec big SPot light (the light is distributed in order to better inform the surrounding area or a radius end and powerful that goes far)
Do you realize the size of this light? The MagicShine MJ-878 is a big light. The SST-90 is a amp hog. That’s why this light is running on 8 x 18650s. No thanks for me. In the beginning I had big lights, now I don’t.
As far as wattage, I don’t like to deal with watts. But instead I can pretty much tell how much lumen output at the emitter by measuring the tail cap current. For example an XM-L T6 drawing 3 amps is around 910 lumens (wiki Cree).
I like a light with a distinct and strong hotspot at around ~7 degrees, then some spill so I can see the rest of the cave and where I’m going. The type of diving you do will determine the kind of beam profile you want. In low viz people want lots of throw (tight beam).
I don’t have a perfect dive light yet, so it’s hard to recommend. I wonder though about this Keygos light. Except for the strobe modes it may be OK.
The best torch is the one you’ve got with you. I find the D10 is a bit large to carry with me all the time. Good as a primary torch on night dives.
If you dive in murky water the most important factor is tight hotspot. In tropical waters light spill becomes more important.
A great light with good all around performance is the UK SL4 eLed. Long run time, reasonable size, cheap C batteries, good brightness, tight hot spot. Best of all the plastic body won’t rust. See my comments about “Metal Torch Syndrome” in the D10 review.
Yep. Applies to any torch where the body of the torch is used to carry current from the batteries. Corrosion in salt water happens when scratches in the finish cause current to flow between the torch head and the handle (or tailcap and body) bypassing the switch.
Commercial dive torches with internal wiring. don’t have this problem. The only reason to use metal in a dive torch is to help with heat.
The 2200 Lumens seem bee corect and in correlation with the size and power of the battery and with the Led System.
In other website, i see Nominal is 1700 Lumens.
i will make other serch about this flashlight.
I retain certain intersesting model (this flashlight and the XTAR D10) i will make more reseach
After, if i will a flooder Diving flashlight for looking well even for what is around me, this is sure i will make a other choice, so i am decide to have un Ion canon flashlight (LOL) and a powerfull flashlight with good flooding for see all what i whant.
So, here’s what I decided,
I will buy as the main torch model MJ-878
For the second model, i will buy a small flashlight (not too long and not too big) with a good power and a good light flooding (so I can see the rest and who i am going) and good prince
I have looking on the keygos light model that you sugest mee MRTdiver
It is a good flooder? for :
I have the Keygos S3 on order (eBay), so it’s in the mail. But since it looks identical to the Yezl Q2 there are beam shots at the Yezl site. It’s not all flood. It should have a nice hotspot with side spill. I think I’ll like it.
If you have some time and are willing to learn a bit you can save some serious money by modding an older Incan UK or Pelican into an led light. I have a Pelican King-D that has 4MCE’s and 3-triple XRE wired to the 2-position switch for flood or throw. Also a Hubblelite(similar to Pelican 3c xenon) that I made both an XML dropin and a quad XTE dropin for. Both lights run on nimh cells. More recently I made dropins for UK Q-lites that use a single 26650. You don’t have to spend hundred$ per light if you DIY. All the info you need to do this is here and at CPF.
