Finally got a DMM - HD2010 tailcap reading less than 2A?

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JaffoAZ
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Suncoaster wrote:
Which one did you get ? Tmart ?

Yes. My first TMart purchase, and it got to my place in 4 days. So… at least I have that. Smile

JAFFO

SashiX
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Hey, foy, can you try, please, TF flame if you have one? Silly

MRsDNF
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JaffoAZ wrote:
Damn. Now I feel like ordering a second HD2010. (sad smiley not necessarily appropriate)

Anything over aproximately 3.5 amps may not give you any more light as the led just creates heat with the extra current and may infact give you less light output. Smile and be happy. You have a killer light. Smile

 

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edc
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Batteries do make a difference and so does the charge. I get higher readings with unprotected batteries and you can get higher readings with undercharged batteries as well.

 

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MRsDNF
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For anyone interested as I am, mine was a Tangsfire from DD with EAST092 driver. If the moon was in the right sector and I bit my tongue I could occasionally read just over 3 amps (3.2 if my memory is correct). I would be interested to hear what others are getting from the different drivers from what brand of flasghlight. Best reading was from a King Kong with a Trustfire slightly less.

I got it wrong. Max amps was 2.7.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

MRsDNF
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Horst Horstmann wrote:
>5.5A with Panasonic CGR18650CH.

If I may ask, what driver, flashlight brand and shop purchased from. Thanks.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Jinx
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Foy wrote:

Yes, a clamp would be much more accurate.  That’s why all these tail cap readings should be used in relative terms, not absolute.  Having said that, I’m quite comfortable with my measurements after getting nearly identical readings as E1320 on the same light.  (his Fluke)

Foy can’t afford cool stuff.

 

whinyFoy

I have several current clamps, including fluke but they are not very good at low levels like we use in torches. Inline readings are much better but comparing with others is hard as different leads, contact points, probes and methods all vary the results. How many people have a calibrated meter?

Cells are very important, it’s the internal resistance that will limit output from a fully charged cell. The lowest reading I’ve measured is from my KK26650s. My Panasonic unprotected are next best with some cheaper cells almost double the resistance. Protection doesn’t help here.

Higher current readings at lower voltages mean the driver is regulating and the light is not direct drive.

Including a tailcap switch is a pain as the rig to do it would add even more resistance and electrical joints. You can take a resistance reading and calculate the power it will dissipate.

Unfortunately I think current readings are essential, it gives a good indication of performance/runtime and when used with lux measurements also gives a good indication of effecientcy.

RAW74
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A driver w/direct drive has the current controlled by the resistance in the flashlight.I believe that is why the current goes up when compressing the spring…shorter path, lower resistance. I remember that another member used his east driver in another host.He modifyed it for less resistance(wired the spring, ect.) and quickly fryed the emmiter.The type and voltage of the cell will also greatly affect measured current with all else being the same.With my HD2010 it works fine with Tenergy 18650’s drawing 3.9-4 amps, but won’t switch modes at above 4.2 or so amps using an TF26650.If I let the cell drop to around 3.6 volts the modes come back due to less voltage available to push the current through the resistance.( current drops with lower voltage at same reisitance ). Clear as mud, right?-Rick
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Hmm. . . just catching up on my BLF reading.  I'm going to have to check out my Ultrafire HD2010 (Tmart) and see which driver I have and what tailcap currents I get (I have TF Flame protected 18650 2400mAh, a King Kong INR rasied top 26650, and Tenergy protected 18650 2600mAh.  I'll report back.

-Garry

 

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SashiX
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Hey, guyz, found these leads @eBay. I have sent an email to seller and he told me that the core is copper.

Jinx
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SashiX wrote:
Hey, guyz, found these leads @eBay. I have sent an email to seller and he told me that the core is copper.

What else did you think the core would be?

JaffoAZ
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They look very much like the leads I’m, currently using.

JAFFO

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Jeansy wrote:
SashiX wrote:
Hey, guyz, found these leads @eBay. I have sent an email to seller and he told me that the core is copper.

What else did you think the core would be?


Well, for 3 bucks a pair… anything but copper :bigsmile:

JaffoAZ wrote:
They look very much like the leads I’m, currently using.

And? Are they good? Shocked

JaffoAZ
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Well, I’m still not getting the current readings I want from my 2010, but they seem to be working better than the stock DMM leads. No way to compare with even better leads yet. Smile

JAFFO

Foy
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SashiX -

TrustFire flame 2400mAh: 3.0 amps  (charged to 4.19 volts)

This battery is the only flame I have left and it has been cycled more than all my other batteries so, may not be a great representative of the brand.

 

Foy

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JaffoAZ
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Just now –

Solarforce 2600mAh charged to 4.15v- 2.9A.
TFF v3 3000mAh at 4.22v – 2.8A.

Humph. Smile

JAFFO

Jinx
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SashiX wrote:
Jeansy wrote:
SashiX wrote:
Hey, guyz, found these leads @eBay. I have sent an email to seller and he told me that the core is copper.

What else did you think the core would be?


Well, for 3 bucks a pair… anything but copper :bigsmile:

Lol, fair enough. I assumed all were copper cable but must admit I never really thought about it before. Why don’t you just buy the banana plugs and make your own with thicker cable, it’s pretty simple and prob give the best results. You could use house hold wire I guess, maybe the lead off of a high power appliance…
edc
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I always get high readings with the DD Trustfire flames 18650 ( you know the ones with invisible protection)

 

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garrybunk
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garrybunk wrote:

Hmm. . . just catching up on my BLF reading.  I'm going to have to check out my Ultrafire HD2010 (Tmart) and see which driver I have and what tailcap currents I get (I have TF Flame protected 18650 2400mAh, a King Kong INR rasied top 26650, and Tenergy protected 18650 2600mAh.  I'll report back.

-Garry

 

#$@%!!!  My HD2010 is DEAD!  Popped in 3 different cells (all above 4.14v), click the switch and NOTHING!  Argh!  The light was working last I knew!  Last thing I did was put packing tape on the backside of the reflector to protect from shorts on the LED leads.  Then it just sat for weeks untouched.  Seems the LED is blown.  The LED looks normal, no discoloring at all. When I put a battery in with the switch on and measure voltage across the wires attached to the star I am getting 4.15v.  When I turn the switch off I get 0.00v like I expect.  This does indicate the LED is bad/blown, right?  Shouldn't the driver be sending lower voltage where I am measuring though?  Or does the driver pass the full battery voltage to the LED? Oh, my driver was the "East-092" variety. 

In any case, I was able to get some measurements on my protected 18650 TF Flame 2400mAh (from KD) with my 3 mode Manafont Ultrafire XM-L drop-in.  Battery fully charged at 4.20v gives me 4.80A when pressing in on the driver spring a bit.  My protected Tenergy 18650 2600mAh gives me 5.02A.  Wish I could have gotten measurements in the HD2010 though! 

Argh,
-Garry

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Horst Horstmann wrote:
Buy an XM-L U2 and ask E1320 for a 10x7135 driver. ;)

Literally just finished sending Erik a request seconds ago for this exact setup!  Although I am wondering whether or not to choose a T6 3C for "neutral white".  I hear people like/prefer cool white for throwers. 

-Garry

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SashiX
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Horst Horstmann wrote:
Jeansy wrote:
just buy the banana plugs and make your own with thicker cable, it’s pretty simple and prob give the best results.

+1

I’m on it (buying from online stores will be quite expensive for just a simple leads, so looks like the only way will be… buy all that stuff in local store Sad )

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JaffoAZ wrote:
Just now –

Solarforce 2600mAh charged to 4.15v- 2.9A.
TFF v3 3000mAh at 4.22v – 2.8A.

Humph. Smile


I can not ever get reading that high on my MF TFF 3000mah batteries in anything (dont like them and wish I had spent the money on something else |( ) ! I get high readings off my SF blue and white, and the cgr18650ea panasonics unprotected are always the highest especially right off the charger.
SashiX
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Foy wrote:

SashiX -

TrustFire flame 2400mAh: 3.0 amps  (charged to 4.19 volts)

This battery is the only flame I have left and it has been cycled more than all my other batteries so, may not be a great representative of the brand.

 

Foy


Thanks, Foy Big Smile Good result for old and abused batt Silly

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apt -

It's nice to see I'm not the only one getting high current from Solarforce blues.  For whatever reason, those original protected 18650's almost always read higher than every other cell I have.  (except King Kongs)

 

Foy

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edc
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I have some unprotected pink samsungs from a laptop battery that give amazing amp readings. I hit 5 amp once in my KD C8 and it scared me.

 

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fartybum
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SashiX wrote:
Hey, guyz, found these leads @eBay. I have sent an email to seller and he told me that the core is copper.

Watch some of that ebay crap, they might look nice and thick, but oftenn it’s thick plastic with very little copper

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