Modified TrustFire TR-J18 +4800 lumen OTF

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Hannes
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Modified TrustFire TR-J18 +4800 lumen OTF

Right I got my 7xT6 Sky ray a few months ago. It was pretty new on the market and i payed why to much for it.

When I got it I was very disappointed with the light. My 3xT6 was as bright. given the 3xT6 was heavily modified.

The drive current was about 1A trough the LEDs Shocked !!! my ceiling bounch test measured 117 lux

So within 5 min I had the new TrustFire TR-J18 in to parts. And it took me about 2s to find the current sensing resistor. Sorry i can’t remember what it was but i replaced it with a 0.05oHm which I think was half the original.

This mod works gr8. Tail cap current is about 5A and the LED current is just under 2A (4844 lumen)
The ceiling test gave am 209lux.

Strange thing about this is that the lights output ramps over about 1min to max. starting at about 120 lux and the maxing out at 209lux.

next thing would be to replace the 2A tail cap switch before it quits

I did try to get closer to 2.5A but the driver could not do it.

www.extremelights.co.za

Light Up Your Adventures

Hannes
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www.extremelights.co.za

Light Up Your Adventures

MattSPL
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Hannes wrote:
!http://media.someammo.com/cb53aecc2ec2/8500_630W.png!

That’s impressive Smile
Does the light handle the heat ok? Or is it only good on short bursts on high?

Cheers
Matt

MRsDNF
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Nice mod Hannes. I like your beamshot as well.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Ledsmoke
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Sweet mod. But since there's been no response perhaps the OP melted together with the flashlight ? LOL

Sorry - just pulling your leg Wink

~ Ledsmoke ~

Dutch humor:

[quote=djozz]

 I do not think that the BLF-community ben

edc
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Nice work Hannes

 

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums

2100
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No shiat….it’d be a nice light for me.

Unfortunately your mod deals with SMT components. Out of my league. Sad

2100
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MattSPL wrote:
Hannes wrote:
!http://media.someammo.com/cb53aecc2ec2/8500_630W.png!

That’s impressive Smile
Does the light handle the heat ok? Or is it only good on short bursts on high?

Cheers
Matt

2 mins max max max for close to 5000 lumens OTF. Something like the DRY close to 5A with Sanyo 2600s 4.2V (lowest voltage sag, slightly better than NCR18650A). Not sure if the driver can take it in the long run as well. But you gotta sacrifice something for this.

If you want > 3000L OTF and yet can operate for quite long (at least 15 mins), you’d need the stock TF X100.

J18 is usd55 shipped on aliexpress…at least to my country. Tempting. I can’t find the resistor for nuts on my J12. Need to find the resistor, maybe can just piggyback and get a 3000 lumens light.

Thermal scan of the J12 (5 x XM-L) with 4000 lumens OTF with KD driver. It has thermal protection, so not sure how’s the output during the whole course.

Lothar
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Well done Hannes and thanx for posting!

Hannes modified one of our mutual friend’s Sky Ray 7xT6 with this mod as well. I couldn’t believe that the modified driver actually supplied 1.98A through the LEDs! This was the actual measurement through the LEDs. Tailcap amps was 4.8-4.9A with 2 × 26650’s.

MattSPL wrote:
That’s impressive Smile Does the light handle the heat ok? Or is it only good on short bursts on high?

The heat is handled surprising well. We compared the light with a Sky Ray 3800, Solarforce L2P and MPP-1 while keeping the 7xT6 on high. I’m guessing it was on high for 5mins and the flashlight was only slightly warm. We’ll to a temp test if anyone is interested.

Current Collection:

BLF: BLF-GT90, BLF-GT70 (CW Sliced), BLF GTmini, BLF-LT1; 

BTU: Shocker (3 x SST-40 @ 8A)

Solarforce: L2P (XM-L2 U3 @ 4A), MPP-1 (XP-L HI @ 6A), MPP-3 (3 x XM-L2 U2 @ 12A), M6 (Nichia 319A @ 6A), M8 (XHP-50.2 @ 9A), 9x (9 x XM-L2 U2 @ 2A)

Coming Soon: Lumintop: BLF-GT4; 

2100
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Lothar wrote:
Well done Hannes and thanx for posting!

Hannes modified one of our mutual friend’s Sky Ray 7xT6 with this mod as well. I couldn’t believe that the modified driver actually supplied 1.98A through the LEDs! This was the actual measurement through the LEDs. Tailcap amps was 4.8-4.9A with 2 × 26650’s.

Bro, is it 2 × 26650 (typo) or should it be 3 × 26650? It should be 3 × 26650 with ~ 5A at the tail. Then can you supply the LEDs with ~ 2A each, plus get 4800 lumens OTF.

Coz my TF X100 is already doing like 5.2 amps with 2 × 26650 TF Flames @ 4.2V. Big Smile
I used Kingkong 26650s and they are the same, all good cells.

Lothar
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My bad, yes it was 4.8-4.9A with 3 × 26650’s (12.1v) Sad

Current Collection:

BLF: BLF-GT90, BLF-GT70 (CW Sliced), BLF GTmini, BLF-LT1; 

BTU: Shocker (3 x SST-40 @ 8A)

Solarforce: L2P (XM-L2 U3 @ 4A), MPP-1 (XP-L HI @ 6A), MPP-3 (3 x XM-L2 U2 @ 12A), M6 (Nichia 319A @ 6A), M8 (XHP-50.2 @ 9A), 9x (9 x XM-L2 U2 @ 2A)

Coming Soon: Lumintop: BLF-GT4; 

kingkong
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hannes,

How do you open to get to the circuit? I just got a TR-j18, and it does not turn on. I think the circuit it broken. I have to upgrade. I can not get it to open. I already screw the lens off. I have tried to put the LED assembly off, but it does not want to come off. I have tried to screw it off(scratch the paint off) , and it does not want to come off…. Can you help?

Tom E
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 I got a J18 on Monday. Didn't turn on either - was the switch.  Took apart, cleaned up what I could, the switch itself was flaky. Funny, because now I can't get it to fail! Gonna check the amps - running 3 TF 26650 5000's, and see if I can spot that resistor to replace - I could probably get 0.05 ohm one from work. This thing looks super bright before any mods - ceiling bounce was ~450 lux, brighter than the FandyFire King clone.

DayLighter
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Tom E wrote:

 I got a J18 on Monday. Didn’t turn on either – was the switch.  Took apart, cleaned up what I could, the switch itself was flaky. Funny, because now I can’t get it to fail! Gonna check the amps – running 3 TF 26650 5000’s, and see if I can spot that resistor to replace – I could probably get 0.05 ohm one from work. This thing looks super bright before any mods - ceiling bounce was ~450 lux, brighter than the FandyFire King clone.

i can’t find that thing anywhere either.. i’ll buy one from you if you can find one? Smile

The only way to do a great work is to love what you do.

Tom E
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DayLighter wrote:
Tom E wrote:

 I got a J18 on Monday. Didn't turn on either - was the switch.  Took apart, cleaned up what I could, the switch itself was flaky. Funny, because now I can't get it to fail! Gonna check the amps - running 3 TF 26650 5000's, and see if I can spot that resistor to replace - I could probably get 0.05 ohm one from work. This thing looks super bright before any mods - ceiling bounce was ~450 lux, brighter than the FandyFire King clone.

i can't find that thing anywhere either.. i'll buy one from you if you can find one? :)

 Total Bust... My J18 driver is totally different from Hannes'. I got the type with a perpendicular board mounted to the backside of the 26mm board. Also I'm seeing higher amps with 3 TF 5000's - I'm tailcap measuring 4A, then quickly dropping to 3A - no idea what's going on with the drop though. I know my DMM setup has been rock solid with custom 12 gauge leads, heavily soldered into banana plugs. Don't have the know-how to find the current resistor, so was depending on Hannes post up top.

Tom E
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Picture of the J18 head and driver - bought from FastTech, Rcv'd 12/24/2012:

DayLighter
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if you got it from fast tech.. then i probably have the same one as yours.. mine came from fast tech too Smile

The only way to do a great work is to love what you do.

Tom E
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Ohh, ok, both you guys (DayLighter and kingkong) have dim J18's.  Been checking the other J18 threads...

DayLighter - I see you got an RMA from FastTech - so, still waiting for a replacement I guess? Sounds like it's been happening where 3 TF 5000's kill the driver... Wonder if there's a fix for that - maybe the driver I got is the new design? Hhhmmm...

kingkong - where/when did you get your J18? Hope my PM helped - interesting to see if your driver looks like mine.

DayLighter
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according to WWEfans.. he also have the same problem with 3 of his buyers.. so they(Trustfires) send him new drivers.
he told me to ask fast tech for new driver .. but why? they’re sending me a new replacement already without even waiting for the old one to arrive ( is that a awesome customer service or what?)
i guess this newer driver is buggy when using 3 26650s batteries. hopefully the replacement is not going to be a problem too.

The only way to do a great work is to love what you do.

DayLighter
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Tom E wrote:

Ohh, ok, both you guys (DayLighter and kingkong) have dim J18’s.  Been checking the other J18 threads…

DayLighter – I see you got an RMA from FastTech – so, still waiting for a replacement I guess? Sounds like it’s been happening where 3 TF 5000’s kill the driver… Wonder if there’s a fix for that – maybe the driver I got is the new design? Hhhmmm…

kingkong – where/when did you get your J18? Hope my PM helped – interesting to see if your driver looks like mine.


did you try it with 3 26650s yet?

The only way to do a great work is to love what you do.

kingkong
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Tom,

Thank you for the instruction. Attached are picture of my TR-18. I am still trying to get to the driver. I got my TR-18 from CarpentryHero. I got the driver out following your instruction. Mine did not turn on after putting 3 -cells in.

Picture of the front.

Tom E
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DayLighter wrote:
did you try it with 3 26650s yet?

 Yes - that's the only configuration I've been using so far, but only used it in short bursts. No problems so far...

kingkong - from your picture of the battery end, the spring pictured there is mounted to the backside of the driver board. There are two tiny holes at the edge of that board - try poking/prying at them with something sharp, stainless steal preferred - mine popped out pretty easily. I have an assortment of tools such as these: dx-stainless-steel-diy-soldering-tools, but have other better stuff too. You could try ss tweezers, but maybe closed to avoid bending the tips. Mine wasn't soldered, but maybe yours is.

MattSPL
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Can this current sensing resistor be found and replaced in most lights to up the current, or is it just in these big lights?

Tom E
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 I know it's fairly common in these type of drivers, regulated, but don't use 7135's. I believe it can be found in drivers of all sizes. Hannes seems to understand these circuit designs very well but I guess hasn't been replying on this thread. There's been other postings/threads on guys doing the same exact thing to different drivers on smaller lights. Once you find the current sensing resistor, you can tweak it until you get the amps output you want (using a variable resistor pot or other means), then it's set. You can either replace a resistor or add one in parallel/serial, depending on what may be determined.

MattSPL
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Tom E wrote:

 I know it’s fairly common in these type of drivers, regulated, but don’t use 7135’s. I believe it can be found in drivers of all sizes. Hannes seems to understand these circuit designs very well but I guess hasn’t been replying on this thread. There’s been other postings/threads on guys doing the same exact thing to different drivers on smaller lights. Once you find the current sensing resistor, you can tweak it until you get the amps output you want (using a variable resistor pot or other means), then it’s set. You can either replace a resistor or add one in parallel/serial, depending on what may be determined.

Ok thanks, that’s good to know. Now to try some light dismantling Smile

Tom E
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Copying my post here from another J18 thread...

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Got the I-O driver, installed

Got the I-O driver, installed it, wow! just wow! 3 simple modes, easy to install, fits perfect, sandwhiched in the thermal pads it came with between the 2 boards, cutting into pieces to fit. Measurements of the J18:

Before with 3 TF 26650 5000 batteries, as is, not fully charged but in the 4.05v range:

tailcap reading: 3.8A down to 3.1A, fluctuates, usually dropping steady

lumens: 3330 @start, 2940 @30 secs, throw: 34 kcd

After with same batteries as is, not charged in between:

tailcap reading: 5.78A

lumens: 4930 @start, 4726 @30 secs, throw: 48 kcd

Waiting on the TF batteries to charge, takes long on an i4, but should get 5000 lumens.

Wow!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tried for kicks, using 3 KK 26650's and got: 6.0A tailcap reading, 5570-4930 lumens, throw: 51 kcd

Richie086
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Beautiful job Tom. That’s an impressive number Wink

Richie

Pokasaha
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Hello all. Could somebody tell if the leds of this lamp are connected with wires or are they planted on a circuitboard?

In other words, is it possible to rewire them to be connected in series?

Thanks in advance!

jaws_one
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Hi Guys,

My TR J18 has suffered the same fate. After about 4 months of use it has dimmed noticeably. I’ve only run 18650’s in it and it’s had a gentle life. Something wrong with that board huh?

I have managed to pop out the driver board but there is that wound copper wire thing on the inside stopping it from coming all the way out out. Doesn’t seem like it will come out without breaking it. Thinking they wired in the driver board first then glued in the reflector? It’s so annoying.

Any ideas?

James

Pokasaha
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jaws_one wrote:
Hi Guys,

My TR J18 has suffered the same fate. After about 4 months of use it has dimmed noticeably. I’ve only run 18650’s in it and it’s had a gentle life. Something wrong with that board huh?

I have managed to pop out the driver board but there is that wound copper wire thing on the inside stopping it from coming all the way out out. Doesn’t seem like it will come out without breaking it. Thinking they wired in the driver board first then glued in the reflector? It’s so annoying.

Any ideas?

James

Didn’t understand that wound copper wire thing, mine had nothing else keeping the driver than the power wires. The reflector is not glued, it’s attached with two screws which you can loose from the inside after moving the driver away. The leds are glued to the frame. Silly way since you can’t take out a “drop in”..

Few days ago I figured out that the frame is separateable to two pieces, if one would like to do some additional plotting…

jaws_one
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Hey man, did you ever manage to get your driver board out? I am thinking I need a really slender screwdriver to fit past it and release the screws on the reflector… seems like the only way. The driver just doesn’t want to come out of the hole as the coil is fixed to the side of the board anf won’t fit – any help would be greatly appreciated.

I emailed the Trustfire factory and they said “Tks for choose our trustfire flashlight.

Fo tr-j18, i suggest you can repair it by yourself.

You can buy j18 circuit board or j18 led light it.”

So back to drawing board.

kingkong wrote:
Tom,

Thank you for the instruction. Attached are picture of my TR-18. I am still trying to get to the driver. I got my TR-18 from CarpentryHero. I got the driver out following your instruction. Mine did not turn on after putting 3 -cells in.

Picture of the front.
!http://i47.tinypic.com/34gx7h5.jpg!

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