So far I have used a dozen or so 18650 torches and so far almost every one has had a problem of some sort or the other with the tail-cap, whether this has been the internals unscrewing (fixed with plumbing thread tape) or the switches themselves giving in (the latest being a Solarforce L2). I now have both a Solarforce L2 switch and a Trustfire X9 switch which needs replacing.
So the question is why? Is it the contacts rusting over or….??? I am not particularly hard on the switches and I very rarely get them wet however where I live it is quite damp. If I am off hunting for a few days I need reliability.
Are there any replacement switches for the above that are as reliable as they come and do not cost an arm and a leg? I realize there are Surefire and such switches but $30 for a switch is far too much IMO.
Youve just discovered one of the downsides of budget lights, they are budget for a reason, they are made to met a price something sometimes has to give. The good thing is switches are easily replaced.
Yip, but surely it would only cost < $1 more to build a more reliable switch? What would it take to modify an existing switch with better internal springs and such (gold plated anyone?). You can’t tell me Sunwayman and Surefire (etc…) cost as much as they do due to the costs of putting in a reliable switch? :~
I would willingly pay the extra $1 if it meant the chance of the switch (arguably the most fail prone part of the torch) were several times less.
I’m sure those types of switches are more prone to failure regardless of who makes them or what they cost.
They resemble the Honeywell microswitches that used to be used in a product at a company I used to work for. They were the weak link there as well.
Basically that’s just what you get when you have that type of switch in that size (small) package.
Either just keep several replacements handy or get a light with some switch type other than a small mechanical clicky switch so electronic or mechanical twist.
I use Judco switches from Digikey. There are quite a few to chose from just make sure you spec current and voltage as well as package size/shape. If you upgrade from an xpg to an XML in a light you will likely need to upgrade the switch as well.
I use Judco switches from Digikey. There are quite a few to chose from just make sure you spec current and voltage as well as package size/shape. If you upgrade from an xpg to an XML in a light you will likely need to upgrade the switch as well.
yeah but if a maker adds $1 to a light it would lose sales to a cheaper competitor. that’s how it works in the budget light market. survival of the cheapest
so in the end it’s the budget light user’s job to swap in a more reliable switch
Sometimes the spring just needs streched a bit to make better contact if the battery is too short same thing happens if there is too much battery rattle .i always make for the extra space with a small sheet of slick /glossy junk mail cut into strips ....i Don't think i've ever had a clicky fail
All switches face the possibility of corroding. The problem is almost all of them, Solarforce included use silver plated contacts in the switches, great for conductivity but in the long run they’ll corrode. This is especially true if the light is used in damp, salty, or if you happen to be around it chlorine filled environments (swimming pools for example).
Gold plated switch internals would probably be better at corrosion resistance but gold fails mechanical durability because of arcing and galling problems.
The only “free” solution is to get good at taking the actual clicky switches apart and physically cleaning them. When mine eventually get flickery I actually take the switches apart clean them with alcohol and a q-tip then also put a little WD-40 on all the contacts in the switch. This usually fixes them and keeps them working longer than original.
Sorry about the lack of a photo… I am working on it (give me half an hour).
I have managed to take the switch apart (will stick a photo of it up as well) and as Mr-Krabs has pointed out it looks to be a corrosion / contact issue as the way the internals are designed mechanically they should not break easily (basically a pen click type system).
Just cleaned the contacts and put it back together and it is working perfectly!
I wonder how much it would cost to get a goldsmith to gold plate the internals?
Sorry the camera’s battery is on the way out so I could not get any good photos so had to stitch them together to give a decent idea of what it looks like.
In the photo you can see a couple of small bumps on either side of the central spring… these had something on them resulting in poor contact. Gave them a quick clean and the torch is running better then new (8*AMC7135 and Arctic-Silver added (body gets hotter allot quicker now).
Dimensions-
Base: 12mm x 12mm (square)
Base to top of square area: 4mm
Base to top of circular area: 9-9.5mm
Circular area diameter: 8mm
Button protrusion (above circular area)-
ON: 2mm
OFF: 3mm
