Back in Black - SST-90 4D Maglite "Shower Head" Aspheric build.

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PCC
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Old-Lumens wrote:

No matter what, I am getting to the point where I want things made more precise than “home made”. You can make a lot of this “look good”, but the precision done with lathes and mills is never there and I’m getting to where I want that precision. Hacks are hacks and they work, but I miss the precise fit and finish.

I’m going to have to think on this one for a little while. I can get the parts done in a shop or from several members in this or other forums, but then the already expensive light (SST90 right now will be like $120), will be Very expensive after machining costs (more like $200 total cost).

Dammed if you do, Dammed if you don’t, LOL.

Later…

—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————-

 

Sounds to me like you’re looking at getting a lathe. There are people like me who would be willing to do simple machining work for a song. Boring the head and cutting 20TPI threads? It’s an hour of work. Pretty simple stuff.

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Match and PCC, thank you both!

When I figure it out, I may be contacting one of you.

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Nice work again… :bigsmile:

waiting for next chapters

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The build Continues, more photos in the first post.

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ISO 200, F:2.7, Daylight WB, 1 Sec. shutter

The old garage door

l1

Low

 

m1

Medium

 

h1

Eye blinding High

 

 

Side of house on High

h2

 

 

Pond on High.

h3

 

All these were handheld, so they are a little blurry.

 

 Oh, this is as "round" as the light gets, due to the lack of enough head adjustment. It never will be anything except a thrower.

rd1

 

 

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scaru
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Nice work OL! I can't wait to see this thing finished. Smile

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I’m liking this a lot. 8)

mattthemuppet
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I think it’s looking pretty good! I’ve been trying to think up a way that you could jury rig a drill to hold the threaded piece – perhaps a threaded bolt and an expanding piece of rubber to grip the inside of the piece. Then you could fix your drill to your workbench, make sure the piece is square and use a file to smooth it down to roundness.

It wouldn’t work for large pieces, but should work in theory for taking off small amounts of material from something like this. Just an idea Smile

Unkl Ian
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mattthemuppet wrote:
… a drill to hold the threaded piece – perhaps a threaded bolt and an expanding piece of rubber to grip the inside of the piece.

Rubber Stoppers, are available in different sizes.

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Wow, that’s some serious patience.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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More photos and info in the first post.

Where is everybody? You would think that this is some kind of holiday week-end or something! Tongue Out

Do people get off on holidays? I'm working tomorrow. I work every holiday.Frown

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Nice work OL. Great way to join the two parts. Holds strong. And it will be a sweet light for sure since it can still be adjusted.

You make great things from small objects sir!

~ Ledsmoke ~

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I'm hear as usual, watching with interest, but very quietly.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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I'm still here trying to convince myself I don't need another SST-90 light. Silly 

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battery holder is finished, see first post.

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ntg
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I’m not sure I like all the “teasing”…maybe it would be better on us if you post it all at once! Wink

Good stuff, as usual, O.L.

PA40, O.L. Mule TS, Fenix EO1, Old Dorcy 1xAAA Gen 2 (Link), Princeton Tec

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ntg wrote:
I'm not sure I like all the "teasing"...maybe it would be better on us if you post it all at once! Wink Good stuff, as usual, O.L.

Well you're probably right.........

 

So I won't show the SST-90 on the Copper Star.

sststar

 

Yes, it looks funky, but it does work. There's two 7/8" 18ga copper disks, with a chunk of copper sitting on top. The wires are soldered from underneath and all the AA is because I don't like the wires suspended that way, so I wanted to make sure they were supported well. I could see one of the terminal strips peeling right off, now they won't. The led is soldered to the block, the block is soldered to the discs, which are soldered together. This will go on top of an aluminum heat sink that's the diameter of the mag tube and about 1" thick. That ought to keep things cool for a few minutes, but probably not longer. I am shooting for about 9.5 amps with it.

I tried it on 3AA eneloops direct and it is definitely about twice as bright as an XM-L. It will be interesting to see over 9 amps hooked up to it with 12 eneloops.

My apologies for the tease, but I just can't help myself.

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Great work as usual Old L. That is a serious amount of work.

 

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Sweet idea with that heat sink. Good job. I admire how fast you work despite taking care of the house and the missus and negotiating the heat too. Wish I had some of that tenacity O-L. 

~ Ledsmoke ~

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WalterK
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You are such an inspiration! Love that batteryholder.

Ive used 2x4 and 2x3 AA Eneloop for SST90 but it never got me real 9A. 3x3 should do better.

My mods in my flickr sets

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Justin, wonder where you got the SST90? I wish I had the $ and time to play with it like you do. Right now I’m just learning and hoping to “play” with all the knowledge you and others provide some day.

PA40, O.L. Mule TS, Fenix EO1, Old Dorcy 1xAAA Gen 2 (Link), Princeton Tec

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ntg wrote:
Justin, wonder where you got the SST90? I wish I had the $ and time to play with it like you do. Right now I'm just learning and hoping to "play" with all the knowledge you and others provide some day.
Mouser It's EXpensive! but it's the highest bin I've found (N) and 5700k.

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This is how the light will look. I don't plan on a lot of embellishments. The only other thing I have to do to the body is the 550P treatment. I think it will look good with a Pa____rd w__p.

full

 

I'm waiting now for an Aluminum Heat sink. If I'm lucky, I might get the led/sink/drivers ready for testing this week end. Then I have to check focus distance and put the lens in permanently. After that it's the final touches, so by the end of next week, I might be able to do beam shots. I will do them at work, but I have to to do them on the week end, when I'm off. I have about 6 targets to use, from 300 yards, to 1.2 miles. No, I don't believe it will go that far, but that's a good target. It's a high rise on a hill and I'm on a hill at work.

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Serious shower power. Great thread.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Aw man! This rocks!

~ Ledsmoke ~

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Great stuff so far, O-L! Really like what you did with the host. Looking forward to you wrapping it up and turning it on. 8)

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More photos, including a wiring diagram, in the first post.

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great job on the soldering and wiring diagram. BTW, you don’t have to solder both the centre leg and the back leg of the AMC chips as they’re electrically identical.

Easiest way for me to understand the Master-Slave thing is this. The AMC chips are simple current sinks – switch ‘em on and they pass whatever their rated current is, from the LED to the battery. To switch them on, they need a certain voltage on their Vdd pin (either the left or right front pin, I can never remember), 3V or thereabouts I think. So, simple single mode boards just have a diode or resistor between the B+ and the Vdd pin whereas multi-mode boards have an MCU that switches that pin on and off very quickly (PWM) to control the amount of current sunk through the chip over a certain time.

So, what you’re doing with the Master-Slave set up is making a couple of single mode boards (the Slaves), then wiring their Vdd traces to the Vdd trace on the Master board, et voila, mahoosive multi-mode current! Another way of doing it would be to just start with single mode boards as Slaves to begin with, but I don’t think you can get them in 8xAMC formats (only 4x boards as far as I’m aware).

Hope that wasn’t condescending, it was quite a revelation for me when I figured it out!

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1 question. Will you be making some to sell?

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

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mattthemuppet wrote:
great job on the soldering and wiring diagram. BTW, you don't have to solder both the centre leg and the back leg of the AMC chips as they're electrically identical.

Hope that wasn't condescending, it was quite a revelation for me when I figured it out!

Not condescending at all.

I soldered the back, just for stabilization and for another heat path.

I have found that Arctic Alumina does not like heat! What the heck is that? AA is supposed to be good for heat, but I'll tell you what, I have had many instances where I soldered something like these chips and the chip came loose from the AA. I've seen it on led stars too, when soldering the wires on. I am not very happy about AA and if it is the best of the bunch, I can see why stars should always be screwed down instead of using thermal compound.

Sorry, had to rant....... just had to.

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