Possibly a large order, need some input

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xP.1337
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Possibly a large order, need some input

ok, my friend is working with a local club group (owners and such) which is looking for flashlights for their bouncers.  apparently my name was mentioned  (mind you i dont go to clubs that often, if ever)

Originally, my friend thought the MCU-C7 would be perfect for them, powerful lithium cr123 primaries could be used, and it was uber bright

 

HERES what the problem is

they used the flashlights to signal eachother, so a reverse clicky is out of the question, AND so are modes......

im thinking we need something along the lines of the size (or a little bigger) of the MCU-C7, with a forward tactical switch (or the option of me installing one in each flashlight. could take time but i can do it) and single mode.

im worried about a few things. heat transfer, a q5 at 1 amp is nice and bright, but it will heat up super quick.  an XM-L was the first failed thought, then an XP-G R5, MAYBE at 1 amp, but 1.5 will be pushing it

 

so, ideas people!? 

must take a PRIMARY form battery (AA, AAA, or CR123 would be my guess, leaning towards cr123) and be plenty bright with that primary, over 120 lumens OTF prefered (about 180-220 internal)

a 3AA would be too bulky, and probalby the same with a 3AAA. a 2x CR123 MIGHT work if small enough, and a single AA would work if it came with a buck driver, but we run into that continuous heat problem... arg!

old4570
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Sounds like uber output is not needed ...  

So a buck boost 500mA or 700Ma driver should do ..  But now your going into semi custom ..

Clicky mods , driver swaps , emitter swap ..  So maybe your looking for a good mod host ? 

Or a Single AA light , and all you would need to do is mod the clicky 

 

How about a Solarforce L2m , with a single mode low voltage drop in , with the Romisen forward clicky mod ....... ? 

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

okwchin
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Whats the budget per unit? and how many will be needed?

"like everyone else - I’m looking for my next “last” flashlight" -  ohnonothimagain

xP.1337
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thats the thing, budget per unit is about 20 bux.

p60 units cant be used due to poor heatsinking. tho its a good thought old. but i already skipped that one. 

im leaning towards a 750ma buck boost with a cr123 to be honest. they need the battery to last more than a few minutes. and most likely a AA/AAA primary wont due to well at over 750ma (buck boost will up the amperage draw on the AA due to the lower voltage)

okwchin
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So the goal is

 

Single Mode, forward clicky, good thermal design, and about 3 watt power consumption, from AA type cells (are 18650s/2x RCR123 an option?), all under $20

 

How keen are you to mod your torches, because Ive replaced my reverse clickys with forward clickys from KD. The switches are a little expensive at a couple dollars each, but that leaves you around 16-17 for a single mode XR-E 2xRCR123 torch of the standard design. Key is to find ones that dont use drop-ins (I personally dont like their thermal performance (failure))

 

How about one of these -  2x CR123, single mode (does it even have a driver circuit?!?), tailstanding (reverse clicky I assume). Old emitter, but moddable if need be.  $19. I havent actually done much of a search, and im not that good with whats available abroad, but heres a start anyway. Key point was the emitter is mounted onto an aluminium pill, and is accessible.

[url]http://www.dealextreme.com/p/superfire-18w-cree-p4-wc-150-lumen-led-flas...

"like everyone else - I’m looking for my next “last” flashlight" -  ohnonothimagain

old4570
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Strange , I have yet to have a P60 drop in failure ..  Anyhow ! 

Looks like you want a 1xCR123A Primary capable light  0.8 - 4.2volt , that can be clicky moded for $20 total ..

Ok , those forward clickies , are just a little longer than the standard clicky , so space may be at a premium ..

UniqueFire G10 CREE XP-E R5 1-Mode   1xAA

Uniquefire S10 Cree R2  1xAA

UltraFire A10 HA-III Cree Q5-WC  1xAA

HUGSBY P31 1xAA

 

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/smallsun-zy-c55-cree-q3-wc-170-lumen-led-flashlight-1-cr123a-19185

http://www.lightake.com/detail.do/sku.Romisen_RR_A090_Rebel_1_Mode_LED_Flashlight_Black_(1.3_4.0V)_-29249

http://www.lightake.com/detail.do/sku.Romisen_RC_D5_LED_Flashlight_Black_-28862

http://www.lightake.com/detail.do/sku.Romisen_RC_C3_LED_Flashlight_Black-28766

http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-164/Romisen-RC-dsh-N3-WW-Neutral/Detail   But possibly more than your budget ! butt possibly just what you wanted ...  

 

http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-178/Romisen-RC-dsh-G2-II-WW/Detail  Just what you want , but AA ... 

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

Vectrex
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Wow old... what's up with the big font..

 

On topic....

Romisen RC-G2 II Cree XP-G R5 Flashlight "Black" (1xAA)

1AA, R5, single mode, forward clicky good throw for signaling, SB service, Romisen quality, under 20 $ ...

what's not to like

old4570
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Copy and paste from DX etc .....  

 

Hang on ... 

 

Ok fixed ...

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

fishinfool
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Hey what's up with the small font? :bigsmile:

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

xP.1337
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lol, no im leaning towards Cr123, probably SINGLE cr123. those are all good options, in fact ive looked at most of them

okwchin:  that is a p60 style light. also its a 501B case, which is known for the worst heat sinking.

OLD: that last one DOES look ALMOST exactly what i want.  i may order one to try it. i do like shiningbeam despite being more expensive.

a few of the romisens seem promisin, and their build quality would be idea. 

 

my main problem was, originally, i was gonna get the MCU-C7, but the new reflector rips the LED off the board if dropped, it no longer a screw in part. if i could order the reflectors that screw in the head (found something that LOOKS like it at KD, but may be too tall) i would switch out the driver, the reflector and the switch on the MCU-C7, as the output is GREAT! might even leave the driver and switch. cause they could use strobe to signal lol

Boaz
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  cr 123 is a pain  .One quick trip from the grocery store where 123's are 9$ will bring have them calling you at 2A.M. asking you to deliver batteries to the bar  asap .

But you will get in free and drink for free 

   . show someone how to signal with a reverse clicky .. if they ever signaled to their buddy before you can rest assured , they did it with a reverse clicky not a  forward ..I would take that part out of the equation immediately and the whole thing becomes much simpler  to accomplish

 I agree with old .. a p 60 is fine for 100 million flasaholics Heatsinkwise  but suddenly it's not good enough for Joe blow ?? sorry if we can't have it ..neither can they ...it's a non issue since it doesn't exist .. you want light , you get heat ..they can't have what doesn't exist . certainly not for under 20$

Body mass as thermal heatsinking  and the fact the uneducated think heavier is a better flashlight  might be  a good combination ,the romisens look heavy ,I don't know cuz I don't own one .. too fuggly

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

xP.1337
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123s are 5 for 2 here in my neck of the woods. so i dont think thats a big problem. 

p60 drop ins are great for some, but I dislike them (for the MOST part) and do not give them to friends.  there simply is NOT enough heat sinking area on a p60 drop in to warrant long term use.  if they happen to leave these on all night, they dont care if its hot to the touch, they just dont want to buy a new LED or driver due to poor heat sinks.

 

reverse clicky is usable, but they have already requested forward, they already use 6p surefires (incandecent) and want to upgrade to smaller higher powered flashlights.  so a 2x cr123 may work if its smaller than a 6p.   highly doubt that, and will NOT be smaller in ANY p60 styles (unless 1xcr123)

 

im leaning towards a few flashlights with me modding in switches and drivers to make it work perfect.  but if someone has better suggestions (and NOT criticizm on THEIR requests) please let me hear them