SOLD - Red 2AA Maglite with Nichia 219 led and TIR optic - US or International, ship anywhere.

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Old-Lumens
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SOLD - Red 2AA Maglite with Nichia 219 led and TIR optic - US or International, ship anywhere.

SOLD is this 2AA Maglite with a Nichia 219 led in it and a TIR optic from CNQG. Direct Drive, no modes. Just a tiny twist of the head from off to on. See this build thread for all the info on this light. Polished Bezel and Tail cap. Comes with the holster and a Dummy AA battery will go with the light.

It doesn't look very red in these photos. It is red, but this camera doesn't get it...

1

2

3

b1

b2

 

It comes with the Maglite holster and I will include a Dummy AA battery, for those that want to use One 14500 with this light. Slip in the 14500, slip in the Dummy AA and you're all set. (try to let the Li-ion relax a little so it doesn't burn up the led., as in not 3.7v hot off the charger, but 3.4v or less, after a day or longer).

Alkalines only show to give about 300ma direct and NiMHs even less (due to the lower voltage). A 14500 should be considerably brighter and also hotter.

 SOLD

Price is $30USD CONUS OR $35USD International

Payment is by PayPal  -   valleau(insert the @ sign here)suddenlink.net

First person posting I'll take it, here in this thread, followed up by a paypal payment, gets the light.

PM me as well, when you take the light.

 

Questions? PM me

Thank you,

Justin

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Edited by: Old-Lumens on 09/17/2012 - 00:49
Slewflash
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Hi justin, do you know what kind of lumen output this flashlight is? Because I’ve been looking for something like this for my parents, and if it’s over 200 lumens I’ll take it!

Slewflash 

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Slewflash wrote:
Hi justin, do you know what kind of lumen output this flashlight is? Because I've been looking for something like this for my parents, and if it's over 200 lumens I'll take it!
With 2 alkalines, I think it would be borderline or below, but with a 14500 it would be over that.

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Okay I’ll take it. Thanks. I’ll PM you my details

Slewflash 

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You got it. Thanks!

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Old Eyes need Light
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Old-Lumens wrote:
It comes with the Maglite holster and I will include a Dummy AA battery, for those that want to use One 14500 with this light. Slip in the 14500, slip in the Dummy AA and you’re all set. (try to let the Li-ion relax a little so it doesn’t burn up the led., as in not 3.7v hot off the charger, but 3.4v or less, after a day or longer).

Alkalines only show to give about 300ma direct and NiMHs even less (due to the lower voltage). A 14500 should be considerably brighter and also hotter.

1) A beautiful product Justin, and I like the idea of it going to Oz.
I would have been very interested, but I deliberately don’t have a PayPal account. I only use PP in conjunction with my debit card. Do you know of any OTHER simple way of paying for self-built products – short of stuffing some cash in an envelope?
(From memory E1320? might also requires one to have a PP account).

2) From my days-old experience Lithium rechargeables come out at 4.2V, and it would be a great pity to damage such a fine torch. 2 AA fresh Alkis might start off at <3.2V but would droop over time. NiMHs should remain steady <2.5V over nearly a full runtime.

3) I have also ‘modded’ a 2 AA incandescent torch… LOL

I replaced the 2.2V 0.47A globe with a DORCY 30 lumen LED. It gives a smoother, whiter beam, and should extend the runtime 5 – 10 fold. At under $3, the price of an incandescent globe that might only last 10 hours it seemed worthwhile. Comparing it to my other LED torches the output seems more like 15 lumens; still on a par with the original red EVEREADY output.

There was also a 40 lumen LED that I put in a lantern. That seemed to output the full lumens. Aside from minor concerns about poor heat-sinking it seems excellent value.

Thanks to making this post I have now realized why the output was lower than expected with the torch – I put in LSD NiMHs; whilst the lantern has a fresh ‘6V’ Alki pack!

Many thanks for the education Justin Smile

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Just a question, what’s the maximum voltage a nichia 219 can take?

Slewflash 

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Slewflash wrote:
Just a question, what's the maximum voltage a nichia 219 can take?

According to the spec sheet 3v. I run them direct with 3AAA Eneloops all the time and hit about 3.3v-3.4v. That's why I said, probably a Li-ion would need to be showing not much more than 3.4v before use, but it's also going to dip down when in use. I don't know enough about Li-ion, because I never use them. Others here should be able to tell and there's probably threads here already on that.

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Old-Lumens wrote:

Slewflash wrote:
Just a question, what’s the maximum voltage a nichia 219 can take?

According to the spec sheet 3v. I run them direct with 3AAA Eneloops all the time and hit about 3.3v-3.4v. That’s why I said, probably a Li-ion would need to be showing not much more than 3.4v before use, but it’s also going to dip down when in use. I don’t know enough about Li-ion, because I never use them. Others here should be able to tell and there’s probably threads here already on that.

Just found this on illumination supply’s website :

  • B10 Flux Bin(100-110lm@350mA)
  • L Voltage Bin (2.7-3.1V@350mA)

So on 2 alkalines, that’s 3volts, do you have any current readings?

Slewflash 

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Slewflash wrote:
Old-Lumens wrote:

Slewflash wrote:
Just a question, what's the maximum voltage a nichia 219 can take?

According to the spec sheet 3v. I run them direct with 3AAA Eneloops all the time and hit about 3.3v-3.4v. That's why I said, probably a Li-ion would need to be showing not much more than 3.4v before use, but it's also going to dip down when in use. I don't know enough about Li-ion, because I never use them. Others here should be able to tell and there's probably threads here already on that.

Just found this on illumination supply's "website":https://illuminationsupply.com/nichia-nvsl219ath1-4500k-92-cri-b10-bin-1... : * B10 Flux Bin(100-110lm@350mA) * L Voltage Bin (2.7-3.1V@350mA) So on 2 alkalines, that's 3volts, do you have any current readings?
Nope, don't have a meter, just an ammeter. Well I have one, but it would be better sticking my tounge across the path than using the meter to get a reading.

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Slewflash
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Old-Lumens wrote:

Slewflash wrote:
Old-Lumens wrote:

Slewflash wrote:
Just a question, what’s the maximum voltage a nichia 219 can take?

According to the spec sheet 3v. I run them direct with 3AAA Eneloops all the time and hit about 3.3v-3.4v. That’s why I said, probably a Li-ion would need to be showing not much more than 3.4v before use, but it’s also going to dip down when in use. I don’t know enough about Li-ion, because I never use them. Others here should be able to tell and there’s probably threads here already on that.

Just found this on illumination supply’s website : * B10 Flux Bin(100-110lm@350mA) * L Voltage Bin (2.7-3.1V@350mA) So on 2 alkalines, that’s 3volts, do you have any current readings?
Nope, don’t have a meter, just an ammeter. Well I have one, but it would be better sticking my tounge across the path than using the meter to get a reading.

An ammeter is all that’s needed. Is yours broken?

Slewflash 

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Old-Lumens wrote:
Well I have one, but it would be better sticking my tounge across the path than using the meter to get a reading.

Love

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Damn, I missed this

 

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums

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Slewflash wrote:
Old-Lumens wrote:

Slewflash wrote:
Old-Lumens wrote:

Slewflash wrote:
Just a question, what's the maximum voltage a nichia 219 can take?

According to the spec sheet 3v. I run them direct with 3AAA Eneloops all the time and hit about 3.3v-3.4v. That's why I said, probably a Li-ion would need to be showing not much more than 3.4v before use, but it's also going to dip down when in use. I don't know enough about Li-ion, because I never use them. Others here should be able to tell and there's probably threads here already on that.

Just found this on illumination supply's "website":https://illuminationsupply.com/nichia-nvsl219ath1-4500k-92-cri-b10-bin-1... : * B10 Flux Bin(100-110lm@350mA) * L Voltage Bin (2.7-3.1V@350mA) So on 2 alkalines, that's 3volts, do you have any current readings?
Nope, don't have a meter, just an ammeter. Well I have one, but it would be better sticking my tounge across the path than using the meter to get a reading.

An ammeter is all that's needed. Is yours broken?
I read 250 to 300ma with the analog ammter, but that's two batteries. Why does that matter, I don't get it. Never did understand all that Ohms law crap, way over my pea brain. Either it turns on or it doesn't.

I have a meter and sold it. Wouldn't know if a reading was right or totally wrong and couldn't make sense of it, so I just sold it off. It's like teaching a dog to sit, you need to be smarter than the dog, LOL.

Oh, well, life goes on.

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Old-Lumens wrote:
I read 250 to 300ma with the analog ammter, but that’s two batteries. Why does that matter . .

Generally, to get an estimate of lumens based on the draw in comparison to the led specs.

2 cells in series * 1.5v = 3.0v * 300mA ~ 0.9W if my math is correct.

Since you were using the batts that came with the light, I assumed alkys at spec volts.

NIMHs have lower voltage, but I suspect they could have a higher draw, but how much depends on resistance (usually lower than alkys) with a direct drive . . this is why I posted in the build thread it would be nice to see the actual numbers as a reference point.

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GottaZoom wrote:
Old-Lumens wrote:
I read 250 to 300ma with the analog ammter, but that's two batteries. Why does that matter . .
Generally, to get an estimate of lumens based on the draw in comparison to the led specs. 2 cells in series * 1.5v = 3.0v * 300mA ~ 0.9W if my math is correct. Since you were using the batts that came with the light, I assumed alkys at spec volts. NIMHs have lower voltage, but I suspect they could have a higher draw, but how much depends on resistance (usually lower than alkys) with a direct drive . . this is why I posted in the build thread it would be nice to see the actual numbers as a reference point.
Well, if I knew enough, I might do that. Anyhow, the NiMHs had a lower draw. I only read 100ma to 150ma at the tail with two fresh NiMHs, but I figure it's because of the lower voltage of NiMHs vs Alkalines. I took it for granted that fresh Alkalines would give off 1.5v each.

I only have one ammeter and it is the old style analog. I bought it because I can read an analog, but I can't read that digital crap. Every time I used the digital meter I had, it would jump all over the place and I can take the analog meter and it reads solid as a rock, so I just (today) ordered an analog voltmeter. Maybe I will be able to read voltages that way. I never could do numbers all my life (dyslexia they say now, stupid back then), but I can read an analog meter needle.

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The forward voltage of an LED will go up with the current. While some LEDs barely light up at 2.5V, they can be mind-blowing at 3.2V. There are some tables, but they arent really reliable.

For example, the current in relation to the forward voltage of an XML:

Voltage determines current. Thats why we use linear regulators, they limit the current to a certain value and adapt the forward voltage to that level.

 

So, while 2 Eneloops (2.6V) can deliver way more current than 2 Alkalines (3V), the light will be brighter on Alkalines. At 2.6V, the XML maybe can pull 100mA while at 3V it could pull up to 1A.

I hope that helps.

 

@OL: If you want to build brighter lights that can be used with 2 AA cells, get this driver:

http://dx.com/p/1-5v-4-2v-3w-cree-circuit-board-for-flashlights-16-7mm-5...

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I’ll take some readings and lux measurements when I receive it.

I’ll take readings for 2 alkalines 3v, 2 NiMHs 2.4v, 1 14500 @ 3.4v. Hopefully then we can learn more about the 219’s current/voltage relationship.

Slewflash 

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To get half the brightness of Slewflashes 200 lumens only requires 50 lm.

With the specs given, one might get ~60 lm OTF (based on around 90 lm from the LED) from fresh 1.6V Alkis: with voltage & output dropping over time. NiMHs might give a constant 30 lm for 12 hours at 150mA.

It could be considered as a superior, lightweight custom built Dolphin, giving over a 6 hour runtime from 2AAs.

If Slewflash found it unsuitable for the parents I would be happy to repurchase it for $35 – just no Li used, not even 1.8V AAs Smile

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The Nichia spec sheet found at the IS link above shows a different curve shape (& weird scaling), but with the same principle.

It also seems to show l-ion voltages of 4.x as workable (if I’m reading pg. 11 correctly – so due diligence is urged) with more than 4x the lumen output at full charge vs the 350mA standard cited above. However, the duty ratio (pg. 9) is much lower at the high draw.

http://www.nichia.co.jp/specification/en/product/led/NVSL219A-H1-E.pdf

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Old Eyes need Light wrote:
To get half the brightness of Slewflashes 200 lumens only requires 50 lm.

With the specs given, one might get ~60 lm OTF (based on around 90 lm from the LED) from fresh 1.6V Alkis: with voltage & output dropping over time. NiMHs might give a constant 30 lm for 12 hours at 150mA.

It could be considered as a superior, lightweight custom built Dolphin, giving over a 6 hour runtime from 2AAs.

If Slewflash found it unsuitable for the parents I would be happy to repurchase it for $35 – just no Li used, not even 1.8V AAs Smile

After I’m done testing, I’ll let my dad play around with it for a few nights and if it’s a bit too dim then I’ll be happy to sell it to you.
However, I will be testing Lions @ 3.4volts (for roughly 2 minutes just to get lux numbers), if that’s okay with you. For normal use I’ll be using 1.2v turnigy AAs.

Slewflash 

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3.4V is OK. I hope it’s suitable, but if not contact me.

Good luck!

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Maybe a lithium primary(3.6 new, 3.3 nominal). Sold in AA size might be just the ticket. A good idea maybe for a gift light.

Obviously not stupid, but different. I’ve come to the conclusion that all that convoluted grey matter upstairs really does make each of us think and figure things out differently. One size explanation does not fit all. Justin, you are gifted with an extraordinary eye, patience, and skilled hands to match(or a really large garbage can). With things like dyslexia it takes a different approach to convey information. Maybe a YouTube video would help. Or a beer and less chatter.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I agree that Justin is gifted.

If my old memory serves, a fair percentage of the population are dyslexic, including some very intelligent ones (check WikiP or Google: Einstein & da Vinci may be mentioned) – the point of differentiation for we third chimps; the so called common chimp being physically stronger, & the rare Bonobo more emotionally advanced.

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I just received the light today. And I can definitely say that I am IMPRESSED! Thank you Justin Smile
After I discharge a 14500 down to 3.4V I’ll test it out the lux readings and ceiling bounce with 2AAs (3.0V), and then with the 3.4V 14500. I have to say though Justin, this will make a REALLY nice gift. Your work is amazing and I thank you for it Smile
Even the packaging of the light was really well done too.

I’m looking forward to your other builds Justin. Hopefully a direct drive SST-90 Big Smile

EDIT: And I thought my IO p60 drop in NW module was awesome at rendering colours. This thing… really is so great. Now when I look at my CW lights everything just looks so garish and unattractive.

EDIT2: Actually on second thoughts I won’t be using the 14500 at all. It cuts off at 3.2V so it’s pretty pointless.

EDIT3: I think I may have worked out the lumen output, it’s very rough though.
This is based on the assumption that my SR King puts out 2300 lumens at 5 seconds after I turn it on.
So I ceiling bounced the SR King, and took the number down after 5 seconds. Then I did the same for the maglite. And yes, I did put them in the exact same position and I didn’t move the meter. Used the same method for both lights. and did it three times.
I divided the SR King’s number by the maglite’s number to get the factor. Then I divided 2300 by the factor and averaged out all my results. I got 99.71 lumens(but this is all very rough anyway, so I reckon the margin of error is probably plus or minus 15%).
Also at 1 meter I got 8k lux, which is pretty good I’d say Smile It is definitely brighter than those 5*5mm LED flashlights you see in australian supermarkets. I think I just found my new house navigation light Big Smile

Slewflash 

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High CRI really makes a difference. If you have a chance to use it to light up a large photo, poster, or map, you will see the colors so much more realistic.

If I were you, I would try the 14500 withought bleeding it off. What are you talking about 4.2v? or higher than that? 4.2 shouldn't kill the led, since it's going to sag right away. I've done 3 AA Alkalines with these Nichias and that's 4.5v when it turns on.

Anyhow, glad you like it.

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Okay, I’ll try the 14500. I’ll take the readings now. Fingers crossed! BTW I edited my last post to put up rough numbers of the lumen output. And it has 8k lux at 1 meter.

EDIT: Looks like I’ll have to wait a short bit, my highest 14500 goes to 4.13V. I’ll charge it up to 4.2V then I’ll test it. And the alkalines I used in the first test read 1.57V after I finished testing.

Slewflash 

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Okay, after some confusing results here are the final numbers:
3.14V (2AA alkalines): 99.7 lumens, 800 lux (I accidentally misstated the previous readings, it’s 800, not 8000).
4.23V (1 14500, 1 dummy): 288.3 lumens, 3,400 lux.

Again, give it 15% leeway for error as these are just rough numbers, but it’s interesting to see how much the output increases with just an extra 1.1V. Amazing!

Slewflash 

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Did you also measure current? Of course LiIons sag right away, but I wouldnt hook my 14500s (IMRs) directly up to an LED..^^

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Yep, I just measured the current, and I’m definitely not going to put an IMR in a direct drive light.

1*14500: 0.64 amps
2* AA: 0.30 amps

Slewflash 

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Slewflash,

I am pleased for you (kudos to Justin too) & just a little sad for me Sad

From your earlier post (#8) aren’t you quoting LED lumens – OTF might be 2/3?

Cheers, John

EDIT: From another thread I have just bought some safer LiFe 3.2V AA & AAA cells, plus a charger. $23 for a 3.6V (rather than 4.2V) charger plus 4 batteries might allow your dad to more safely operate this torch – with an LED lumen output closer to 200 lm giving a cooler & longer runtime? Although AA capacity is only 600mAh.

That is if you can bear to give it up Smile

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