Small Sun ZY-T08

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ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS
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The thing folks don’t realize about the Small Sun ZY-T13 is the cutout like keyway gap in the head threads that screws to the tube. I didn’t like it. You don’t notice it until you take the head off. But it was rough as all get out. This ZY-T08 doesn’t have that. And the machining is a lot better in my opinion especially around the head. And so is the anodizing.

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS
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Here’s a couple more photos.


rikr
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That is an awesome looking light!!! I can’t wait!!!

 

 

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ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS
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Rick,

You will love the head on this light and how it is machined. I especially love the battery machined out slots. The Xtar 18700 2600mah fit perfectly in this light. No problems whatsoever. Like I said I am sold on this light.

old4570
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Mine only shipped a few days ago .. Drats !

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rikr
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old4570 wrote:
Mine only shipped a few days ago .. Drats !

Mine shipped yesterday due to they were out all week… Crying

 

 

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Silverbolt
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Payment was confirmed on the 30th. They still haven’t shipped mine. How is it during Chinese New Year? Do they not ship for the entire month?

rikr
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Silverbolt wrote:
Payment was confirmed on the 30th. They still haven’t shipped mine. How is it during Chinese New Year? Do they not ship for the entire month?

That is when I ordered mine on the 30th.

 

 

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viffer750
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This is really a good light. I got it today, and I am satisfied with the quality and the brightness. It puts out 600 otf lumen and 41kcd. A little strange thing around the regulation: when I put weaker cells in the light, the brightness increases with about 10%. I am a little confused because I did a brightness runtime test with 2 TF flame, and the light looks well regulated, so I don't know why increases the output sometimes with weaker cells.

There is a possibility to modify the led current with a resistor change.

Here is the brightness runtime graph after a conservative resistor modification on the driver:

1

 

unique engrish language... Smile

 

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS
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viffer750 wrote:

This is really a good light. I got it today, and I am satisfied with the quality and the brightness. It puts out 600 otf lumen and 41kcd.

I told Rick that’s about what I expected going off of what my other lights were. I’d say those numbers are about dead-on.

viffer750
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ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS wrote:
viffer750 wrote:

This is really a good light. I got it today, and I am satisfied with the quality and the brightness. It puts out 600 otf lumen and 41kcd.

I told Rick that’s about what I expected going off of what my other lights were. I’d say those numbers are about dead-on.

One of the best price / value ratio in the market.

unique engrish language... Smile

 

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Hi Viffer750. What kind of mod did you do to the driver and why did you (of all people) do a "conservative resistor modification" ??

I'd want to drive that thing... You already know what I'm gonna say don't you Embarassed

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viffer750 wrote:

This is really a good light. I got it today, and I am satisfied with the quality and the brightness. It puts out 600 otf lumen and 41kcd. A little strange thing around the regulation: when I put weaker cells in the light, the brightness increases with about 10%. I am a little confused because I did a brightness runtime test with 2 TF flame, and the light looks well regulated, so I don’t know why increases the output sometimes with weaker cells.

There is a possibility to modify the led current with a resistor change.

Here is the brightness runtime graph after a conservative resistor modification on the driver:

1

 

Ilikeflashlights says his sample has tint bit cooler than the t13 (which IMO has about perfect for a thrower, ~1D, the stl-v2/v6’s have 1A tints). How’s the color on yours?

Increased output with weaker cell (and by weaker I assume you mean lower voltage) implies the driver regulates to constant power, which is frankly surprising for a light in this price category. Might be able to use cr123’s after all. Anyone brave enough to give it a shot? :bigsmile:

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Love this light. But mine arrived with one spring way off centre, it still worked but didn’t look good. So I took the switch off and re-soldered it in place. Found the four screws that hold the switch plate onto the body were all not tight at all. Might be worth checking your screws before they fall out guys.

Anyone got the driver board out yet? How to do it??

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Ledsmoke wrote:

Hi Viffer750. What kind of mod did you do to the driver and why did you (of all people) do a "conservative resistor modification" ??

I'd want to drive that thing... You already know what I'm gonna say don't you Embarassed

I soldered an additional 0.22ohm resistor parallel with the 3 small smd resistors.

1

 

This increases the driver/led current. Now the measured current on the driver side is 3.2A.

And the output brightness increased from 600 to 750 lumen, and from 41kcd to 50kcd.

unique engrish language... Smile

 

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Sweet! TY viffer750 Smile

~ Ledsmoke ~

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[quote=djozz]

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viffer750
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agenthex wrote:
Ilikeflashlights says his sample has tint bit cooler than the t13 (which IMO has about perfect for a thrower, ~1D, the stl-v2/v6’s have 1A tints). How’s the color on yours?

Hmm, hard to determine the tint bin for me, what I see, it’s cool white, cooler side of the tint bin, the spill with slight purple tint, the spot is pure white

unique engrish language... Smile

 

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You can clearly see the tint difference between the T08 vs the T13 in post #7. Like I said it’s a cooler white.

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viffer750 wrote:

I soldered an additional 0.22ohm resistor parallel with the 3 small smd resistors.

This increases the driver/led current. Now the measured current on the driver side is 3.2A.

And the output brightness increased from 600 to 750 lumen, and from 41kcd to 50kcd.

viffer750, what was the drive current on high before the mod?  Also, is that a 20mm driver board?  And how is the pill?  Is it hollow?  Good heatsinking?

-Garry

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viffer750 wrote:

Ledsmoke wrote:

Hi Viffer750. What kind of mod did you do to the driver and why did you (of all people) do a "conservative resistor modification" ??

I'd want to drive that thing... You already know what I'm gonna say don't you Embarassed

I soldered an additional 0.22ohm resistor parallel with the 3 small smd resistors.

1

 

This increases the driver/led current. Now the measured current on the driver side is 3.2A.

And the output brightness increased from 600 to 750 lumen, and from 41kcd to 50kcd.

Great mod, Viffer!  Thanks for sharing. Any chance we can get a mouse over comparing pre-mod beam to post-mod beam?
viffer750
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garrybunk wrote:

viffer750 wrote:

I soldered an additional 0.22ohm resistor parallel with the 3 small smd resistors.

This increases the driver/led current. Now the measured current on the driver side is 3.2A.

And the output brightness increased from 600 to 750 lumen, and from 41kcd to 50kcd.

viffer750, what was the drive current on high before the mod?  Also, is that a 20mm driver board?  And how is the pill?  Is it hollow?  Good heatsinking?

-Garry

2.3-2.4A,

the star is bigger than 20mm, I don’t know exactly, I don’t want to take apart the head, now it is perfectly centered. Wink
I think it is 25mm.
The pill is not hollow, and the heatsinking is very good.

unique engrish language... Smile

 

viffer750
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JohnnyMac wrote:
Great mod, Viffer!  Thanks for sharing. Any chance we can get a mouse over comparing pre-mod beam to post-mod beam?
I have to remove the resistor, you give me a lot of work. Smile I will try.

unique engrish language... Smile

 

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viffer750 wrote:
2.3-2.4A, the star is bigger than 20mm, I don't know exactly, I don't want to take apart the head, now it is perfectly centered. Wink I think it is 25mm. The pill is not hollow, and the heatsinking is very good.

Sounds great!  And definitely sounds like it needs the mod!  So it must not be the typical "direct drive on high" type of drivers we've been seeing used a lot lately.

I realize now the driver board must be really wide due to the two battery cells needing to make contact with the center contact on the board.  Is there room under the stock driver board if someone wanted to add a Nanjg driver (say one beefed up with 10xAMC's for 3.5A) and still use the stock board for battery contact only? 

-Garry

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Dang it viffer750!  Just when I was trying to resist buying this one (actually resisting for now and post-poning the purchase another month or so)!  Argh! 

-Garry

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viffer750 wrote:
JohnnyMac wrote:
Great mod, Viffer!  Thanks for sharing. Any chance we can get a mouse over comparing pre-mod beam to post-mod beam?

 

I have to remove the resistor, you give me a lot of work. Smile I will try.
Don't bother then.  I was just hoping you might have taken a pic before the change.

Hey, off the top of your head, do you recall the resistor needed to bump the ZY-T13 to the same 3.2A as this one?  I know you used a pot and not a resistor but what resistor would I need instead of a pot?

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I can’t wait until mine shows up!!! :bigsmile:

 

 

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JohnnyMac wrote:

Hey, off the top of your head, do you recall the resistor needed to bump the ZY-T13 to the same 3.2A as this one?  I know you used a pot and not a resistor but what resistor would I need instead of a pot?

Can't really use the same current, T13 runs on 2series, this one 2p.

But the pot used was set to 0.7ohm to get ~1.6A, which being 2s is about equivalent to 3.2A in 2p assuming similar efficiency. So any 0.7ohm resistor will work.

I have ready stock of 0.47ohm and am itching to put it in my T13, but afraid it might just give too much current. 

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Just ordered from manafont. How is this light
compared to hd2010? The waiting begins. J)

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trigger619 wrote:
Just ordered from manafont. How is this light compared to hd2010? The waiting begins. J)

I’ll let you know once mine comes in. My HD2010 just came in today and I love it! Its about equal to my UniqueFire UF-V6. HD is slightly brighter… only noticeable against a wall shot. The UF-V6 has tighter hotspot (1/3 of hd2010), and less spill. A couple more weeks, and I’ll see how it compares.

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CR123’s?

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