Ultrafire P10 XM-L

Hi,

I modded a Ultrafire P10-R5 with a XM-L:

Now i have a very bright and very little XM-L flashlight with good runtime, because it use 18650 batteries.

It can´t running on high very long, but it´s great in middle(0,85A).

Beam is like floodlight, very useful for short range.

Temp. is going fast down, if i use low mode.

Driver is 17mm and Star 16mm(with LED-Protector), reflector i use: DX 18x12 OP

After modding, front-cap can´t screwed 100% down, but O-ring is screwed in and i think, it´s waterproof like before.

...very easy modding ;-)

Congratulations! Well done. If you are bothered the head does not screw down completely maybe you can sand off the upper side of the reflector. Be carefull tho.

Looking good and well centered. XML is great as a close distance flooder.

why you have change the reflector?

the p10 reflector are nice for xm-l and you can get arround 4800 lux@1m

http://www.forolinternas.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1344

With original reflector i have a short circuit, because it touches the contacts on the emitter.

First it works with orig. reflector(because of the thin isolating film on the emitter), but after second unscrew the frontcap nothing shines.

Beam is like orig. reflector & XM-L: FLOOD

its not thrower but not total flood too

uf c3 ss xr3 ez900 @1.6 amp 14500 vs uf p10 xm-l@ around 3.5 amp

1/200 s:

1/2000 s:

for total flood I have this other with xm-l:

sipik with 14500 vs tr-801 xm-l@ 2.8 amp:

Very nice work there Andi and Moviles2! It's good to see an XM-L in a smaller light that's not a P60 host.

Moviles2, interesting TR-801 you have there. I like the addition of the aspheric lens to create a nice even flood.

I mean it could be possible(with a little bit of trimming) and put in a "Carclo TIR" Optic in the P10 XM-L.

It will be my next try ;-)

p.s. tested...yes, it could burn black tape and other nice black objects...good for laminate ^^

Some Beamshots:

What exactly do I need to make the same mod? Driver, led, star e.t.c.

I love the idea of a "turbo-charged" pocket light

You need:

-Ultrafire P10

-XML on 16mm star/board

-17mm driver , or "NANJG 105A" driver for 2,8A

-"thermal glue" for new XM-L, like: THIS

-this reflector

-maybe high temperatur tape

-maybe a "LED Protector", like THIS , or THIS

p.s. i soldered a very short spring on driver + , for a little bit more distance between heat and battery.

Thank you Andi!

Hey, thanks for sharing these beamshots I found that with a good reflector, XM-L could be a pocket thrower, yeah :p

I love the concept of a slim 18650 XM-L light with a smooth reflector. How is the build quality on that P10 Andi?

Hmm, in reality(outdoor), the p10 is absolut flood!

...but so bright, that it will throw far enough :)

the orig. SMO reflector has a 5mm hole, that´s why orig. reflector can damage the thin isolating film on the emitter and produce a short curcuit.

beamshots SMO <> OP near the same(big hotspot), take a look up in this thread.

p.s. I use a LED protector out of a manafont xm-l dropin, with 5x5mm square hole especially for xm-l (little bit cutted).

And i shortened the reflector on the upper side, front-cap can now screwed closer together.

Made some videos about other funny use of the "pocket-rocket":

Ultrafire P10 with XM-L 1/2

Ultrafire P10 with XM-L 2/2

The original reflector work great if isolated properly , that lousy tape I use here with a 5 mm hole is enough since the star is pressed to the pill for the reflector with grease between , not glue...

Is possible increasing a bit the heat management adding some solder into the pill , that no change the disipàtion of the body but delay the increase of temperature , some minutes are gained...

Also before put a 18650 and try is better check for shorts with 2 AA and an amperemeter, you don't want a shorted stuff with a 18650 into....

Yes, orig. SMO reflector works great, if isolated......but it´s a risk.

Mine work also great (additionally isolated with Kapton), but after second unscrew the bezel....short circuit.

How to remove driver from pill ? Just pry out driver from brass part or whole brass part that is holding driver ?