HD2010 beamshots. Stock and XP-G2.

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MRsDNF
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HD2010 beamshots. Stock and XP-G2.

My other HD2010 arrived during the week . This time a UltraFire arrived. My first was a TangsFire. Straight of this one is driven a lot harder than the TangsFire. Nearly 5 amps pushing onto the end of the battery as against 2.7 amps. Here are a couple of pictures taken at 120 meters. The ring on the XP-G2 cannot be tuned out on this flashlight. It can be made to be a lot worse though and I'm not interested in drilling the LED hole larger on the reflector. In normal use it is barely visible. The tree is 120 meters away.

HD2010

 

XP-G2

 

HD2010 I estimate to be about 3.3 amps.

 

XP-G2 running at 2.8 amps.

I will leave the mouseover for someone more astute than I.

 

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Edited by: MRsDNF on 10/11/2012 - 06:32
scaru
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Here  a mouseover is, mouse over for stock, mouse out for xpg2. 

Rockspider
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Nice! Cool

What driver did you use for the XPG2? You aren't using the same East092 that was with the XML, I suppose...

 

Thanks for the mousover Scaru, the difference in hotspot is clearly visible now!

MRsDNF
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Thanks Scaru. The driver used was a KD 8x7135 V2. I should of taken a chip of it to lower current but with my luck I would of destroyed it. It starts at 2.9 amps and settles to about 2.8 with a King Kong.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

raccoon city
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Mouse over for stock, mouse out for XP-G2.

Rockspider
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Does it get hot? According to Match testing (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/12919) 2.8A is past the max output point and should provide more heat and less lumens than 2.5-2.6A

MRsDNF
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Rockspider wrote:

Does it get hot? According to Match testing (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/12919) 2.8A is past the max output point and should provide more heat and less lumens than 2.5-2.6A

Yes Rockspider I have read Match's findings which is why I should of removed a chip to reduce current. My abilitys in electronics which includes soldering is not real good hence the test as it is. I have not had time to do extended run time tests on high to check for heat yet.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Lothar
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Awesome beamshots! But we want more! Smile

Current Collection:

BLF: BLF-GT90, BLF-GT70 (CW Sliced), BLF GTmini, BLF-LT1; 

BTU: Shocker (3 x SST-40 @ 8A)

Solarforce: L2P (XM-L2 U3 @ 4A), MPP-1 (XP-L HI @ 6A), MPP-3 (3 x XM-L2 U2 @ 12A), M6 (Nichia 319A @ 6A), M8 (XHP-50.2 @ 9A), 9x (9 x XM-L2 U2 @ 2A)

Coming Soon: Lumintop: BLF-GT4; 

MRsDNF
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Lothar wrote:
Awesome beamshots! But we want more! :)

Thanks Lothar. How can I help you with more?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Lothar
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MRsDNF wrote:

Thanks Lothar. How can I help you with more?


I can see from both sets of fotos that the hotspot is smaller, and I assume it is brighter as well. What the pictures doesn’t tell me is: How does this translate to everyday usefulness. Or whether this is an improvement or not? Do you like the XP-G2 better?

Some beamshots (zoomed out, not crop of hotspot) pointing at a tree/house/object 100-200m would be awesome!

Off-topic: Don’t you have a Solarforce Masterpiece Pro-1 as well? It would be great if you can throw that in the mix as well Smile Didn’t you say you are thinking of replacing the XR-E with a XP-G2 as well?

Thnx

Current Collection:

BLF: BLF-GT90, BLF-GT70 (CW Sliced), BLF GTmini, BLF-LT1; 

BTU: Shocker (3 x SST-40 @ 8A)

Solarforce: L2P (XM-L2 U3 @ 4A), MPP-1 (XP-L HI @ 6A), MPP-3 (3 x XM-L2 U2 @ 12A), M6 (Nichia 319A @ 6A), M8 (XHP-50.2 @ 9A), 9x (9 x XM-L2 U2 @ 2A)

Coming Soon: Lumintop: BLF-GT4; 

MarioSS
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MRsDNF wrote:

Lothar wrote:
Awesome beamshots! But we want more! Smile

Thanks Lothar. How can I help you with more?

May i ask where did you purchase your Ultrafire HD2010? =D

MRsDNF
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The Ultrafire come from Tmart USA. They did not have stock at the time in there Chinese warehouse. I would strongly suggest that you check there stock levels first to avoid disappointment. Coming from the USA to Australia it spent more time sitting in custom depots than actually travelling.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

MarioSS
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MRsDNF wrote:

The Ultrafire come from Tmart USA. They did not have stock at the time in there Chinese warehouse. I would strongly suggest that you check there stock levels first to avoid disappointment. Coming from the USA to Australia it spent more time sitting in custom depots than actually travelling.

Thanks for your reply MRsDNF Smile
sadly Tmart only has the unbranderd version guess ill either go for the fandyfire from LightCastle or ultrafire form lightmalls

MRsDNF
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MarioSS wrote:
MRsDNF wrote:

The Ultrafire come from Tmart USA. They did not have stock at the time in there Chinese warehouse. I would strongly suggest that you check there stock levels first to avoid disappointment. Coming from the USA to Australia it spent more time sitting in custom depots than actually travelling.

Thanks for your reply MRsDNF Smile sadly Tmart only has the unbranderd version guess ill either go for the fandyfire from LightCastle or ultrafire form lightmalls

I also have a Fandyfire that come from DD from memory. It appeared to have the same driver but would not pull 3 amps at the tailcap. It was one of the few underperformers. Neither light stayed stock long anyway. Happy hunting.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Blord
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The unbranded version isn't bad. Swap the driver for a 9x7135 and you are back in business.

MarioSS
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Blord wrote:

The unbranded version isn’t bad. Swap the driver for a 9×7135 and you are back in business.

As you can see am a complete nublet 0:) and trying to learn. would like to experament on a new light Silly
Is it 9×7135 or 8×7135?
All i found was this

MRsDNF
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MarioSS wrote:
Blord wrote:

The unbranded version isn't bad. Swap the driver for a 9x7135 and you are back in business.

As you can see am a complete nublet 0:) and trying to learn. would like to experament on a new light Silly Is it 9×7135 or 8x7135? All i found was "this":http://www.lightmalls.com/amc7135-8-2800mah-5-mode-circuit-board-for-muc...

This driver here has a higher output and ultra low. It is one of my favorites.

http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.s020073

A 9 x 7135 has had another chip put on it to raise the output by the user. I would try the driver stock and if you were not happy maybe thnk about adding chips then. Here is a link for the chips. There is a lot of discussion on this forum on this topic if you need to know more.

http://www.intl-outdoor.com/amc7135-advanced-current-regulator-p-221.html

 

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

MarioSS
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MRsDNF wrote:

MarioSS wrote:
Blord wrote:

The unbranded version isn’t bad. Swap the driver for a 9×7135 and you are back in business.

As you can see am a complete nublet 0:) and trying to learn. would like to experament on a new light Silly Is it 9×7135 or 8×7135? All i found was this

This driver here has a higher output and ultra low. It is one of my favorites.

http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.s020073

A 9 × 7135 has had another chip put on it to raise the output by the user. I would try the driver stock and if you were not happy maybe thnk about adding chips then. Here is a link for the chips. There is a lot of discussion on this forum on this topic if you need to know more.

http://www.intl-outdoor.com/amc7135-advanced-current-regulator-p-221.html

 

Thanks a ton MRsDNF ill just purchase the light itself for now and try it out. Still need to get some decent 26650 cells.
Going to run it on a single 18650 3400mAH Panasonic cell for now

mudgripz
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Just a thought – the Maxtoch in Krono’s current group buy is the 2X, not the smaller 2S. 2X stock is about 120kcd or round 700 meters throw. Mine runs with just a dedome and it’s 240-250kcd at 10m, with 970-1000 meters throw.

The smaller, lightweight new Maxtoch is the 270gms M24 Sniper at 83k stock and 173k dedomed. Both lights run two 18650s. Blf design input with both lights. Excellent quality.