Just got my HD 2010

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manxbuggy1
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Just got my HD 2010

Well I just got my Ultrafire Hd 2010 in this past week. I got it from Tmart and received it 6 days after ordering which is awesome. We did an unofficial lumen and lux@1mtr test on it last night. It was running an AW IMR 18650. It started really strong at over 1000 lumens but had sagged down to below 800 by the time the 30 second test was up. Is this sag a normal feature of this light or possibly because of the IMR cell. I am still waiting on my Jacob A60 to get here so me and my brother will do the full battery of tests on both lights including the real world throw. It looks impressive in the throw department but I don’t expect it to challenge my 7G5 nor my M3C4 in all out throw but can already tell It beats my C8 xml t6 handily. I think I might try using my brothers MNKE IMR 26650 to see if it sags less though. What do ya’ll think?

SashiX
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Congrats Big Smile
On HI it’s direct driven, so that sag is normal (don’t think it’s overheating problem)

manxbuggy1
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SashiX wrote:
Congrats Big Smile
On HI it’s direct driven, so that sag is normal (don’t think it’s overheating problem)

So far I am happy with it. I cant wait until next weekend to do the full test on it and the Jacob to see which will throw farther. I will be surprised if the HD doesn’t make 400 meters. Really have no clue on what to expect with the Jacob though.
apt323
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That some ood info. Thanks

Cant wait to hear the a60 results.

MRTdiver
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manxbuggy1 wrote:
It started really strong at over 1000 lumens but had sagged down to below 800 by the time the 30 second test was up. Is this sag a normal feature of this light or possibly because of the IMR cell.

How are you testing the lumen output? What instrument do you use?

**I’m not sure that a 200+ lumen drop in ~30 sec. is just from high Tj (junction temperture).* But with the rise in LED Tj your going to have a considerable decrease in lumen output over time. Nearly all heat produced is conducted through the back side of the chip (specifically the P-N junction). So every method of removing heat from LEDs should be considered.
Realize that you don’t have the best of cooling methods i.e. direct soldered LED to copper base, but what you have is an over driven LED mounted on an aluminum (AL) MCPCB, which is probably inefficiently attached to the AL heatsink.

MRsDNF wrote:

… and the latest one from Tmart USA is an UltraFire that pulls over 4.5 amps at the tailcap.

Quote from this thread

For every 10°C rise in Tj, the luminous efficacy decreases by about 5% at constant current. Article. That’s why Tj directly alters performance and why proper heatsinking is of utmost importance.

So in conclusion… you’re like in “Turbo” mode dude! Therefore use sparingly.

נֵר־לְרַגְלִ֥י דְבָרֶ֑ךָ וְ֝אֹ֗ור לִנְתִיבָתִֽי   (Psa 119:105)   

rdrfronty
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We use a Mastech LX1330B. May not be the best meter available, but its a pretty good and reasonably priced one. We use it along with my PVC “integrated sphere” We’ve tested about 50 lights with the setup so far, so I think we have it dialed in pretty well.
The HD2010 peaked over 1000otf, but dropped down very quickly into the 800+ range within 5 seconds. It then leveled rock solid right at about 800otf at about 15 seconds and stayed they for the rest of the test of about 45seconds.
We then tested it in throw at 1m. It peaked at about 46K right away, then leveled off in the 42K range at 1M. So based on other lights we’ve tested, we figure it should be in the 425-450m range in real word throw. For example my very good performing C8 with XML U2 measured 33K and maxed out in real life throw at 400M, and my brothers 7G5 V1 measured 56K and had a real life throw of 500m.
We like to measure our lights at 1m to get a decent idea of what they can do, however we always do a real life throw test for more accuracy – no guessing involved. When his A60 comes in, we’ll take them both out and see what they can do. Here is our meter and lightbox setup -

JohnnyMac
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The problem with measuring throwers at 1m is that often the focus of the reflector does not columnate the light that close. For throwers you should really measure at 4 meters to get a more accurate lux reading.

MRTdiver
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JohnnyMac That’s interesting that you said that since HKJ measures Lux with his bigger lights at 4m. See 3rd graph down:
http://lygte-info.dk/review/Beamshot%20large%205-2012%20UK.html

While the smaller torches he measured at 1m. Again 3rd graph down:
http://lygte-info.dk/review/Beamshot%20AA-CR%202012-07%20UK.html

נֵר־לְרַגְלִ֥י דְבָרֶ֑ךָ וְ֝אֹ֗ור לִנְתִיבָתִֽי   (Psa 119:105)   

rdrfronty
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The problem with measuring lights at 1m, 4m, 10m, & etc. is that its all estimates. And different types of lights read differently at different distances. For example my 35w ryobi HID just managed to max my meter at 200k at 1m. It has a real life throw of about 600 meters. Now my SR90 measures about 105K, but i have verified it threw 700m in real life. So I know certain lights should be done at perhaps 10m, and some do just fine at 1m. But with so many variances in all the lights on the market, how do we know the exact sweet point to test each light?
That’s why we also do real life throw tests – meaning using my meter sensor mounted to board surrounded by reflector tape for easy targeting and then head down range for my brother to “shoot” the sensor. My meter measures down to tenths, so we consider the light as “throwing” that distance when it’s reading .2L. We do this in a pretty much pitch dark night in a tree surrounded national forest road to prevent any light pollution.

scaru
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rdr, that is a very good point but I still prefer to have both. Or even better measure at 1,2,4,5, and 10 meters and then average. 

asval
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manxbuggy1 wrote:
I think I might try using my brothers MNKE IMR 26650 to see if it sags less though. What do ya’ll think?

I’ve read that using a 26650 cell and pressing the cell too hard against the spring can short out the light.

GottaZoom
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scaru wrote:

rdr, that is a very good point but I still prefer to have both. Or even better measure at 1,2,4,5, and 10 meters and then average. 

Why average? Largest (repeatable) reading may be the optimal distance for the beam . . .

SashiX
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GottaZoom wrote:
scaru wrote:

rdr, that is a very good point but I still prefer to have both. Or even better measure at 1,2,4,5, and 10 meters and then average.


Why average? Largest (repeatable) reading may be the optimal distance for the beam . . .

+1
You can’t do average of all those tests, only if you do, lets say, 3 times at 10m. So, average for 10m will be average of those 3 tests at 10m.

KumaBear
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I don't know how others are doing with their HD2010 but it took quite some time to solve the mystery of my short.  I ended up doing a couple of things to fix it (temporarily).  First I twisted the driver/emitter assembly a little farther forward, allowing more room for the 26650.  (By the way, I gave up on the longer 26650s and settled on a KING KONG.  Then I started looking at the rear switch assembly and decided that the switch was leaning a little and that under pressure, it might be shorting out - so I (rather aggressively) bent the spring back toward the center.  After all was said and done, the light worked quite reliably but only for a while.  It turns out that the switch heated up for some reason and the plastic parts fused together.  (I know because I took it apart.)  This switch should have been able to handle the current passing through it without problem but it didn't.

Does anyone know where I can get a decent replacement switch for the HD2010?  I'd really appreciate a lead.

Best Regards,

-Bob-

KumaBear

MRsDNF
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I have used one of these as a replacement in my HD2010 with no problems.

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-replacemnet-tailcap-switch-component-5pcsset-p-7451

 

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

KumaBear
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Thank you MRsDNF.  I was hoping that switch might do the trick.  I'm also looking at a couple of other things at Manafont so I'll probably "beef up" the order with those.   Note: Sorry about the delayed response but been busy with batteries lately.

What do people feel are Manafont's best deals on desireable lights at the moment? 

KumaBear

KumaBear
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Thank you MRsDNF.  I was hoping that switch might do the trick.  I'm also looking at a couple of other things at Manafont so I'll probably "beef up" the order with those.   Note: Sorry about the delayed response but been busy with batteries lately.

What do people feel are Manafont's best deals on desireable lights at the moment? 

KumaBear

MRsDNF
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KumaBear wrote:

Thank you MRsDNF.  I was hoping that switch might do the trick.  I'm also looking at a couple of other things at Manafont so I'll probably "beef up" the order with those.   Note: Sorry about the delayed response but been busy with batteries lately.

What do people feel are Manafont's best deals on desireable lights at the moment? 

I just double checked the switch and I did have to take the outside diameter down from 21.5mm to 20mm. I'm sorry I did not mention this originally. This switch has performed faultlessly for awhile now at currents up to 6 amps in my HD2010.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.