Jacob A60 owners, a little attention!

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viffer750
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Jacob A60 owners, a little attention!

Okay, I got this light today, and started to check the ability of the light. Ez1000 xr-e, that's not bad, it can handle the overcurrent better, than ez900. Very foggy lens, I was unable to clean it with warm water+ soap and alcohol. So I polished it up with my dremel, now it's clean. Only this upgrade increased the throw capability with 4000lux. I measured with foggy lens 50kcd, with clean lens 54kcd. Tailcap current was 2A with a sanyo cell. But, what I noticed: the brightness instantly dropped very quickly. After 10sec the lux meter showed only 50kcd, another 10sec 45kcd...

and this is the reason:

1

Yes, that's a paper disk under the star. Heat transfer = almost zero.

So please be carefull, and check this on your light.

Only remove the paper disk will not work, because the led will be out of the focus.

I made a little metal disk for this, and now, after 20sec the the light still holds the 52-53kcd value.      

2

 

 

 

unique engrish language... Smile

 

Edited by: viffer750 on 10/15/2012 - 08:14
BetweenRides
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Good catch and nice mod, viffer!

apt323
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Saw that when i opened mine up but didn’t even investigate what it was just thought it was paste. That sucks bad!!!

zeremefico
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Ledsmoke
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I hope that is a one off item you have there. I have 4 now and none of them has had this. On one there was a paper disk above the led, between the plastic retainer disc and the led star. But only on that one unit.

BTW: Those lux values are spot on what I get with that light once the lens is cleaned. 

~ Ledsmoke ~

Dutch humor:

[quote=djozz]

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cainn
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Mine has a paper (I’d actually call it a soft cardboard) disc as well, with a hole in the center. The hole however has been filled in with thermal paste. Someone, somewhere, obviously felt that would do the trick, but the last thing you want to be doing is relying on a film of thermal paste to transfer heat, especially when you’ve created such a small thermal path in the first place. Thermal paste is for filling in the imperfections of two surfaces to be mated, not for creating primary thermal paths.

Was planning to rebuild/mod this light anyway, so it’s not a big deal for me. Waiting for a replacement reflector from DX as well, since the reflective coating was flaking off mine in more than one place, causing a nasty mess inside the head.

Lumatic
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agenthex
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Best if these types of notes are posted to the light’s main thread since owners are already subscribed to it.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/12905?page=2#comment-246114

Reading this makes you smarter: http://lesswrong.com/

apt323
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Thanks VIFFER AND AG!!!

MRsDNF
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viffer 750. What did you use in your dremel to polish the lens that did not scratch it?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

viffer750
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unique engrish language... Smile

 

Steve_the_Chief
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Today I received my A60 which I won in a DX giveaway. According to DX it was shipped to me straight from the factory, my address was even handwritten on the envelope.

Of course I had to open it up. There was no paper disc under the star, but only a tiny spot of thermal compound. I applied an even layer of arctic mx-2 and the body gets warm quickly now.

The beam is quite ringy, but I guess that's hard to avoid with XR-E and a smooth reflector. It has next mode memory, but it only needs about 5-10 minutes to set back to high.

The lens was not particularly dirty, but unfortunately it has a 1cm scratch near the edge.

Oh yeah, and the thing throws... My overall impression is quite good, especially for the price.

buster
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Does anybody know how hard the light is driven on the lower mode?
Is it safe to keep it on for a couple of hours?

garrybunk
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Mine pulled 0.52A in low.  Heat won't be an issue.  On a 2400mAh cell you'd get approximately 4.6hrs runtime.

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

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buster
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Thanks garrybunk for the quick response!
Our discoball light burnt out for tomorrows party and I figured the jacobs would give out a nice reflection from the ball, so i did a quick test… oh how right I was Party party on

garrybunk
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buster wrote:
Our discoball light burnt out for tomorrows party . . .

LOL! Laughing

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

, MTBR’s Lights & Night Riding Forum
NOTE: Now hosting my photos from my Google account. Post up if you can’t see them. Older photos hosted on Photobucket or Flickr may disappear (PM me if you want access to them).
Tom E
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 I put the 1 Mohm resistor mod on my Jacob - reset to high now in 2-3 secs when off. I used a surface mount, 800 series I believe - very simple to solder on. I also upgraded to the R2 LED - nice, little broghter, will be updating to a Nangj driver when it comes in.

Steve_the_Chief
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I had to order the resistor, none of the electronics stores I visited had smd resistors in stock. Minimum order was 25 pieces, so I should have some spares when they arrive Smile

sixty545
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Last week I had two A60, let’s call them #1 and #2.

The #1 had a tighter hotspot than #2 and pulled 2.15A rising fast to 2.4A.
That was a bad sign (could be a thermal problem and the road to self destruction).
Lumens measurement was 360 fading fast to 240!

The #2 pulled a steady 2.1A and was 350 lumens fading to 330.

I disassembled #1 at the LED end. The plastic capsule around the LED had previously been removed (there was pressed a hole in it) perhaps for adjustment?.
The cooling was castatrofal, the star sat loose on a 7mm black piedestal, 0.5mm high. I thought it was a piece of metal but it was two layers of self-adhesive plastic rounds meaning the star had no cooling at all!
There was some traces of white paste that could indicate that the star had previously sat directly, with paste, on the pill.

Now what is that?

Plastic!!!

What I don’t understand is why would someone put anything beneath the star unless it can’t reach the bottom of the reflector? For an optical adjustment I would put something between the star and the reflector.
Perhaps an answer will show when I clean up and mount the LED properly, without plastic in between and look at the hotspot. After all I have the #2 to compare to, the one with the bigger hotspot. Perhaps it too needs adjustment of the reflector position, in due time…

EDIT: Yep! After removing the plastic and mounting the star properly the hotspot grew the 10-20% to become the same size as the A60 #2 (and a bit uneven). I am now convinced that it is necessary to put 0.5 mm of metal beneath the star as the reflector cannot be moved closer to the LED. The factory must have had some ugly hotspots and made that quick and very dirty solution to the worst of them.
Also, without the spacer, the star is not pressed against the pill and overheating could be the result.

gords1001
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The one I played with at weekend had no “spacer” for want of a better word under the star, just the anodized light engine base (funnily enough, the keygos ke-5 has exactly the same set up, has a direct drive xm-l and I don’t remember seeing many threads about them burning out…).

I just sanded back the anodizing on both lights, new diamond thermal paste (because that’s what was available locally) and reinstalled the led’s.

If I’m honest, I’m unconvinced the anodizing causes that much issue, but what do I know?

In case anyone missed my thread.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/16280
Tom E
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 Based on their track record reported here in other threads, all Jacobs should be carefully looked at in regards to the LED mounting. Mine wasn't bad, same as gords, and I did the same thing he did - removed anodizing and used quality thermal paste. I also upgraded to an R2 emitter and did the "resistor mod" to get the stupid driver to reset to high (default) mode after 2-3 seconds of being off, rather than switching to the next mode.

 I think/suspect thr newer versions are better mounted because the early bought ones had the plastic, while it seems like a couple bought more recently didn't have it.

 Also, other threads/posted mentioned removing the plastic changes the vertical height of the LED mount, which may adversely affect the beam pattern - not sure of the details. You may want to check the other thread postings - BLF search for Jacob or A60.

ohaya
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Hi,

Sorry for posting to an older thread, but figured it’s better than starting a new one. I know there’s the main review thread, but this one seems to be about mal-performing A60s?

Anyway, I got one that was partially dedomed, and was only showing about 25Klux, so I put in a new XR-E emitter, and now it’s only showing about 22Klux :(. Actually, I “killed” the partially dedomed emitter, which is why I had to replace it.

On the one I have the star is sitting just on a small bit of paste, so I was wondering if the lack of a disk might be the problem (i.e., causing the 22Klux vs. ~50 klux)?

If that’s the problem, should I try to put a small metal disk under it? I’m thinking that maybe filing and sanding a copper penny (U.S.) might work?

Thanks,
Jim

P.S. I’m only getting 0.8 amps tailcap current. Is that normal for the stock driver?

Spasmod
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ohaya wrote:
Hi, Sorry for posting to an older thread, but figured it's better than starting a new one. I know there's the main review thread, but this one seems to be about mal-performing A60s? Anyway, I got one that was partially dedomed, and was only showing about 25Klux, so I put in a new XR-E emitter, and now it's only showing about 22Klux :(. Actually, I "killed" the partially dedomed emitter, which is why I had to replace it. On the one I have the star is sitting just on a small bit of paste, so I was wondering if the lack of a disk might be the problem (i.e., causing the 22Klux vs. ~50 klux)? If that's the problem, should I try to put a small metal disk under it? I'm thinking that maybe filing and sanding a copper penny (U.S.) might work? Thanks, Jim P.S. I'm only getting 0.8 amps tailcap current. Is that normal for the stock driver?

 

Hi ohaya,

If you have a look at this image, it's the Jacob A60 1 meter from a wall and it will give you a rough idea of what to expect when the hotspot is focused properly.

It's the top left image you want. (I just grabbed it quickly from my review thread)

ohaya
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Spasmod wrote:

ohaya wrote:
Hi, Sorry for posting to an older thread, but figured it’s better than starting a new one. I know there’s the main review thread, but this one seems to be about mal-performing A60s? Anyway, I got one that was partially dedomed, and was only showing about 25Klux, so I put in a new XR-E emitter, and now it’s only showing about 22Klux :(. Actually, I “killed” the partially dedomed emitter, which is why I had to replace it. On the one I have the star is sitting just on a small bit of paste, so I was wondering if the lack of a disk might be the problem (i.e., causing the 22Klux vs. ~50 klux)? If that’s the problem, should I try to put a small metal disk under it? I’m thinking that maybe filing and sanding a copper penny (U.S.) might work? Thanks, Jim P.S. I’m only getting 0.8 amps tailcap current. Is that normal for the stock driver?

 

Hi ohaya,

If you have a look at this image, it’s the Jacob A60 1 meter from a wall and it will give you a rough idea of what to expect when the hotspot is focused properly.

It’s the top left image you want. (I just grabbed it quickly from my review thread)

Hl.

The hotspot on mine looks similar to the top-left image (at 1 meter), but it’s just very. I take my lux measurements at 39 feet (11.887 meters, I think), and as I said, it’s only about 22 – 25Klux (vs. > 50 lux) now.

Edit: Hmmm. I see from your review thread that you were getting 2.1 amps on high? That seems like a problem for mine, where I’m seeing only ~0.8 amps!

Tom E
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Jim - we gotta stop meeting like this... Smile. The 0.8 amps is a definite problem and probably explains the output. Been a while since I worked on a Jacob, but you really want 2-2.4 amps, but think'n stock, it does 1.6 or 2 amps?? something like that - viffer notes 2.0 amps on his, so 0.8 is really low. Maybe some really bad resistance somewhere, or could be the driver. The EZ900 XR-E's do the best throw in a Jacob, as high as in the 70's stock I believe.

My final mod on the A60 is using a Nanjg driver at 2.45A (or 2.8A) and a XP-E2 emitter w/dome - does over 100 kcd - did the same for manxbuggy1 for his, listed here at 116 kcd: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/21112

 

ohaya
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Tom E wrote:

Jim – we gotta stop meeting like this… Smile. The 0.8 amps is a definite problem and probably explains the output. Been a while since I worked on a Jacob, but you really want 2-2.4 amps, but think’n stock, it does 1.6 or 2 amps?? something like that – viffer notes 2.0 amps on his, so 0.8 is really low. Maybe some really bad resistance somewhere, or could be the driver. The EZ900 XR-E’s do the best throw in a Jacob, as high as in the 70’s stock I believe.

Hi,

Sorry about “meeting”. I posted a thread earlier about being “unlucky”, so I guess I get a lot of the “problem childs” :).

I just editted my post about the 2.1 amps, so I agree. I’ll try to see if I can figure out what’s going on there. FYI, my measurement was at the battery negative with no tailcap, so the tailcap switch wasn’t in the picture.

I did remove the driver for a look-see, maybe I didn’t tighten it down enough. I’ll check that out.

Thanks,
Jim

Tom E
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Oops, edit above with adding:

My final mod on the A60 is using a Nanjg driver at 2.45A (or 2.8A) and a XP-E2 emitter w/dome - does over 100 kcd - did the same for manxbuggy1 for his, listed here at 116 kcd: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/21112

beamshots including my mod'ed Jacob here:  Beamshots in NH at about 240 meters

 

ohaya
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Hi,

Well, this is getting weirder and weirder…

To eliminate any body contact, etc. issues, I hooked up a battery directly to the driver spring and negative contact, going through my meter to measure current.

And, I got a whopping…. 0.72 amps :(!!

Yep, less than when the light was put together.

I’m not familiar with the stock A60 driver, but this seems like a bad driver, right?

Jim

ohaya
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Tom E wrote:

Oops, edit above with adding:

My final mod on the A60 is using a Nanjg driver at 2.45A (or 2.8A) and a XP-E2 emitter w/dome - does over 100 kcd – did the same for manxbuggy1 for his, listed here at 116 kcd: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/21112

beamshots including my mod’ed Jacob here:  Beamshots in NH at about 240 meters

 

Hi,

I may have to go that way with this one, cuz I’m going nowhere, fast, right now :(…

Tom E
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Sounds that way. I may have an extra stock driver laying around here... Would have to check...

gords1001
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jim, did you get yours from aurabuy? that’s where mine came from and it was only pulling an amp…..

bell out the plus contacts and there is one on the driver that goes direct to the battery, also bell out the neg ring and move the led neg wire to there, DO NOT DO ANY FURTHER RESISTANCE IMPROVEMENTS just move the wires, you can find my pictures in the review thread that is not spasmod’s, it should instantly hot 2.45a, it will still have next mode memory, the mode group goes:-
high
off
high
off
high
off

etc

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