First post, am new to BLF. So i recently bought a Ultrafire HD2010 and am planning on modding it. I have ordered from cutter an xml u4 for it an a kd 8x7135, and am wondering is it safe to piggy back 2 more 7135’s onto this LED, will he secured with decent quality phobya thermal epoxy or paste depending on application. or is it not really worth it. also in comparison an SMO reflector in my c8 lost throw, so im wondering if a standard reflector such as what comes with the c8, could be purchased from anywhere? The u4 is on cool white which i know produces glare, however the light will also be used as a gun lamp so the cool white is a better option.
Post #33 shows how Kramer went about getting a 7135 driver in there but its worth reading the whole thread, there’s plenty of info. Not sure what you mean about the reflector as its smooth anyway, you can sputter it to smooth out the beam but I’m unaware or replacement reflectors available.
It may also be worthwhile having a read through this thread for additional information, I’ve not organized it yet, but its supposed to be a reference guide for modding.
This is exactly what I suspected… Doh. According to the link you supplied, you have ordered a 12 Volt XM-L Easywhite 4000K - U3 bin. (not even U4, as the title states!)
This will not work with your driver, the voltage is wrong.
In your link, it lists the LED as this: Led Part Number is XMLEZW-02-0000-0D00U340F. This is a 4000K Neutral White Colour Bin
If you look carefully for that part number in this PDF you’ll see what I mean.
woops on the u4, however it will probably be useful for another project, however i do have one of these, https://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1417 so i will add that to the project instead, and its on a nice quality copper pcb from LED-tech in germany. possibly use that u4 for a bike light, its one for 12v forward voltage which coould be acheived with a lipo battery for an rc car. . im assuming the kd driver won’t fit straight into the pill, so maybe il do what was suggested on the other link (cheers gords1001), is 3.5 amps a sensible target? also i think i have gotten my terms muddled up with the reflectors, this is the original reflector which i prefer it provides a smaller hotspot which is brighter compared to this one http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S010154.
i notice that the hd2010 has a similar design to the second one and am now wondering if it will make any difference. cheers for pointing out that u4, would have confused me for a bit.
sorry ChiggerPepi, hadn’t refreshed the page, already have a u3 cool white, not sure on the tint though, have emailed to cancel on the u4 though as i don’t really have the money to put it in a bike light nor does it look like it will be efficient in there.
the second LED is a u3, its not from cutter and is not longer available at LED-tech as it was the last one
part no. CREE XM-L 2S0-U3 (can’t find full number at the moment.)
Thanks for the info on the u4, however i am still left with one question, is 3.5amps safe for the u3? it will have a decent thermal pathway to the torch, but will that be enough to keep heat down for the long times it will be on for? rather not fry my u3, however i am looking to push it. maybe il only put 1 7135 on instead. will see when the hd2010 arrives!
3.5A should be fine in the HD2010. This is how high many others are running theirs. Heck those running unmodded HD2010's are seeing 4A+ due to the direct-drive driver. 3.5A is the plan for mine with a U3 1C emitter swap.
I have made same modification to my hd2012 as “garrybunk” above and I can also recommend that.
I swaped driver to AMC7135*8 (Nanjg 105C) driver with +2 7135’s. Led is that U3-1C.
Also I like very much that 1C tint - It’s somewhere between CW and NW.
mines a 2s tint so maybe a bit closer to neutral which should be good for hunting, will go for the 2 7135’s then. I’m not brilliant at soldering and the legs do look a bit small so i will probably struggle but we will see. will have a practice later on a broken kd 8x7135 which is what I’m getting the drivers from, something went with the controller and it seems to have a different set of modes every time i used it which was odd. 4A through an 18650 sounds like a good little heater, maybe not so bad through a 26650. have got some trustfire flames 26650 batteries coming with the hd2010 and i have some panasonic unprotected cells for my c8 will try them both and do current readings as well. looks like one hell of a torch with a u3 bin in it cheers for all the info. hoping i can get away without having to modify the pill, but i can if i have to. looks like a good amount of spill on the floor directly in front which will be good for on my bike, not sure how I’m going to mount it yet, i don’t like the idea of lockblocks and I’m not sure my current mount will fit it.
