A couple questions about lights and p60 drop ins

36 posts / 0 new
Last post

Pages

1C3 MAN
Offline
Last seen: 4 years 1 month ago
Joined: 03/03/2011 - 02:23
Posts: 11
Location: UNITED STATES
A couple questions about lights and p60 drop ins

Hey guys i have a couple question i hope can get answered here.

first off i have a couple solarforce l2 hosts and would like to know what some good p60 drop ins would be. i prefer throw over flood.

 

Next i want to know what some other good 18650 lights are that wont break the bank. i have looked at a ton of them on deal extreme and 

im still learning about LEDs so all the numbers and letters dont really make sence to me yet.

 

Thanks in advance 

Budgeteer
Budgeteer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 3 months ago
Joined: 08/24/2010 - 02:19
Posts: 3087
Location: Slovenia (EU)

P60 dropins due to the small reflector are not suitable as throwers. However, the best you can do is to get a R2 dropin and change the oraneg peel reflector to a SMO version. Ain't much of a thrower but will do to some extent. Changing lens to multicoated one might the best upgrade you can do. Beyond that is simply undoable.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

1C3 MAN
Offline
Last seen: 4 years 1 month ago
Joined: 03/03/2011 - 02:23
Posts: 11
Location: UNITED STATES

Yea i understand that. I guess i used the wrong term i meant i prefer a tighter/smaller hotspot as opposed to a bigger one. 

I have one solarforce with a thrunite cree XM-L drop in and its very bright but has a rather large hotspot and im looking for a tighter beam for my other ones.

I also have a ultrafire light with a R2 in it and it has a much smaller hotspot but isnt as bright as my thrunite. So i guess what im looking for is a drop in that is as bright as the thrunite but with a hotspot like the R2.

but the R2 came with the light so mabe its not as good as some of the name brand ones. who makes the best R2?

Budgeteer
Budgeteer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 3 months ago
Joined: 08/24/2010 - 02:19
Posts: 3087
Location: Slovenia (EU)

Hmm... I think you need to DIY route and find a cheap good host with a deep reflector and an XM-L. There was a modified HS-802 with XM-L from brynite i think floating the BLF forum. That might be what are you looking for.

Still the best cheap throwers are R2 based due to emitter size and lumens per square mm. I believe it si possible to make a XM-L a good thrower but that will require heavy tinkering.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

brted
brted's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 20 hours ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 19:44
Posts: 2371
Location: Atlanta

A smooth reflector will make the XR-E light throw better. It should be throwing pretty well already though.

Maybe you could measure the current draw and see if it is less than 1.2A or so? If it is just really underdriven, a driver upgrade might help, though you have to solder some small parts. If you're using a 18650 in the light, there are some good linear regulator drivers (AK-47) that will definitely deliver just over 1A to the LED.

A coated lens will add 8% or so, but you may not be able to notice it.

Budgeteer
Budgeteer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 3 months ago
Joined: 08/24/2010 - 02:19
Posts: 3087
Location: Slovenia (EU)

I believe that for throwers good lenses are a must if youre going for the proverbial extra mile.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

brted
brted's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 20 hours ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 19:44
Posts: 2371
Location: Atlanta

Budgeteer wrote:

I believe that for throwers good lenses are a must if youre going for the proverbial extra mile.

Yeah, I'd still get a coated lens. It can't hurt and they're pretty cheap.

Don
Don's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 months ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 16:32
Posts: 6617
Location: Scotland

There are a couple from KD available. I have a few of the $2.99 ones and they make a dramatic difference. There are others at $2.29 which I must get some of to compare them.

$2.99

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1766

$2.29

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=9064

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Budgeteer
Budgeteer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 3 months ago
Joined: 08/24/2010 - 02:19
Posts: 3087
Location: Slovenia (EU)

I bought the cheaper ones and im very happy with the purchase of all 3.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

brted
brted's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 20 hours ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 19:44
Posts: 2371
Location: Atlanta

My first purchase was the $2.99 ones. I took pictures with the old lens and new lens at a 4-second exposure and couldn't tell much of a difference. However, based on your measurements, I still believe there is an improvement. Next time I bought the cheaper ones. Even if there is a difference, what are the odds that KD would keep them straight? Both had the same plastic film covers over them.

1C3 MAN
Offline
Last seen: 4 years 1 month ago
Joined: 03/03/2011 - 02:23
Posts: 11
Location: UNITED STATES

Okay guys your going way over my head. let me start by saying i have never modded a light befor i used to just buy them and leave them alone.

But now that im getting more into them im want to learn but i dont know where to start. So is there any good write ups or videos on how to do all of this?

what is the driver?

how do i measure the amps coming out?

 

also what are some of the better out of the box drop ins?

Don
Don's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 months ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 16:32
Posts: 6617
Location: Scotland

Most of this is pretty simple. If my videos weren't terrible I'd make one. If you want crazy bright, the highest output on short of very expensive custom ones, is the Manafont XM-L T6 dropin.

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-cree-t6-3mode-memory-...

The plain glass lenses that come with the hosts tend not to be all that great, the coated ones reduce losses and are a cheap upgrade at 2-3 dollars. Comparing a new one of these to an old (and probably dirty) plain glass lens made an enormous difference. Just giving the lens (Actually its only function is to keep things off the LED and make the light water resistant, it is actually more of a "window" than a "lens") a good clean (Take it out and wash it in hot water with whatever you use to wash dishes) will let more light through. Swapping the glass is usually just a matter of unscrewing the bezel and popping it out to clean it. Here are the numbers for a coated lens against an (admittedly dirty) plain glass one. The "Lens" numbers are with coated glass. My throwiest light is an XR-E Q5 with an enormous reflector (65mm deep, 45mm wide at the top) which has a throw value nearly 100% better than this XM-L module. You'd probably need a wider and deeper reflector to get the crazy throw out of an XM-L 

  Lightbox luxLightbox luxLightbox luxEst. LumensEst. LumensEst. LumensThrow at 1 metre
LightBatteryTurn-on30 secs2 MinutesSwitch-on30 secs2 MinutesLux
Ultrafire XM-L T6 P60 dropin High1865044403730348079666962418270
Ultrafire XM-L T6 P60 dropin High Lens1865048504120303087073954319400
Ultrafire XM-L T6 P60 dropin Low18650250250250454545920
Ultrafire XM-L T6 P60 dropin Low Lens186502572572584646461020
Ultrafire XM-L T6 P60 dropin Med186501392135313402502432405590
Ultrafire XM-L T6 P60 dropin Med Lens186501507146514232702632555830

 

You can't go far wrong with any of the Solarforce dropins.

http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product.php?t=RB

 

With the constraints of size, and that most reflectors are designed round the Cree XR-E, the XR-E series of LEDs still tend to throw farther. If you look at my 40 metre beamshots, ignore the edges and take a look at the target branch you can see that lights with a sixth of the sheer output of the XM-L (or a tenth of the Varapower) can still light up the target. Next time I'm looking for a 50-100 metre target. The actual are of the LED that is emitting light is very much larger in the XM-L than with the XR-E. Some XP-E modules throw very well too, though my memory can't recall any more at the moment.

 

Here is a chunk of my light measurements spreadsheet. The two best throwers (neither of them are P60) both use XR-E Q5 (or it might be R2 - there is no way of telling without lab-grade equipment). the Manafont dropin above is by far the best-throwing P60 module just by virtue of its enormous output.

  Lightbox luxLightbox luxLightbox luxEst. LumensEst. LumensEst. LumensThrow at 1 metre
LightBatteryTurn-on30 secs2 MinutesSwitch-on30 secs2 MinutesLux
Solarforce L2m DX R5 dropin High2 1865013751424119824725521510490
Solarforce L2m Solarforce HV R5 dropin2 1865015051415130127025423311450
Lumapower MRV SE Low1865011011011020202012300
EastwardYJ J06 Medium1865019301870181434633532512500
Solarforce L2i R2 low voltage dropin186501085101696519518217312950
Ultrafire XM-L T6 P60 dropin High1865044403730348079666962418270
Ultrafire XM-L T6 P60 dropin High Lens1865048504120303087073954319400
Varapower prototype4C NiMH86508330626015521494112321500
EastwardYJ J06 High1865036503580290065564252023200
Lumahunter MRV SE High1865014621380132326224823732300
RQ Spear Clone High1865087583983415715015036700

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

1C3 MAN
Offline
Last seen: 4 years 1 month ago
Joined: 03/03/2011 - 02:23
Posts: 11
Location: UNITED STATES

okay im learning some thing so far. a couple more questions.

how do i figure out what leds are/do what. like the diffrence between the XM-L and the XR-E im mean to me its just letters. i dont understand what they mean.

Also what is the driver is it part of the drop in?

Tas62
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 1 week ago
Joined: 12/26/2010 - 17:57
Posts: 494
Location: Tasmania, AUS

1C3 MAN wrote:

okay im learning some thing so far. a couple more questions.

how do i figure out what leds are/do what. like the diffrence between the XM-L and the XR-E im mean to me its just letters. i dont understand what they mean.

Also what is the driver is it part of the drop in?

You may find the Flashlight Wiki http://flashlight-wiki.com/ (link also at top left of BLF pages) Really useful for most of your questions.

1C3 MAN
Offline
Last seen: 4 years 1 month ago
Joined: 03/03/2011 - 02:23
Posts: 11
Location: UNITED STATES

Also will the solarforce 320 lumen XPG work with 1 18650 battery? because it says 4v-18v and 1 18650 is only 3.7v.

 

sorry for the dumb questions guys

Match
Match's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 9 months ago
Joined: 11/14/2010 - 11:57
Posts: 1488
Location: South Carolina, USA

1c3man, 

  I was in the same boat you were in about 4 months ago....Up until then, the brightest torch I owned was a 15yr old streamlight and I couldn't tell a pill from a pie-hole.  So, here's some advice, and what I did:

  Start going through some of the old threads, especially if it's one with a technical discussion and just read them (there's quite a few posts and pictures going over drop-ins and drivers here). Granted, you may not understand much of the jargon BUT at least you'll be exposed to it.  As with any new subject or hobby, be it particle physics or popsicles, answering your particular questions without a good baseline reference won't get you far.

  Think of the information like puzzle pieces.  It's hard to put the puzzle together without a picture, but it's even harder to do when you haven't even seen all the pieces yet.

 

Yea, I know...my analogy stinks, but hey it's waaay past my bedtime.

If that sounds like too much work, then here's the short answer based off of your original question:

Buy this for your L2. 

Boaz
Boaz's picture
Online
Last seen: 5 min 47 sec ago
Joined: 11/07/2010 - 09:31
Posts: 7792
Location: Birthplace of Aviation

1C3 MAN wrote:

Also will the solarforce 320 lumen XPG work with 1 18650 battery? because it says 4v-18v and 1 18650 is only 3.7v.

 

sorry for the dumb questions guys

http://budgetlightforum.cz.cc/node/505

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI4M3JYMUVwM0E&hl=en&authkey=CIOSsoMI#gid=1

http://www.dealextreme.com/forums/Forums.dx/Forum.-209~threadid.530221

http://www.forolinternas.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=996&p=10295#p10294  you might need bing/or google translator or learn spanish

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?188772-pictorial-review-of-LEDs/page2

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inverse-square_law

http://img85.imageshack.us/f/flux.jpg/  .  >> arrows right and left to toggle  between pages

http://fonarevka.ru/   blows my mind everytime I go here   i spend hours.. I hope I'm getting a virus or lossing my credit card info because it's totally worth it .Amazing fun data base .. play with stuff on the right    and  on bottom right ..flasoholics dream 

http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLamp7090XR-E_B&L.pdf

 

http://www.gearcarrot.com/guides/lights/?p=toc

http://flashlight-wiki.com/

 

 

Listed in order of output at maximum power, least bright to most bright:

Luxeon Rebel 040-bin (84+ lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
Luxeon Rebel 050-bin (105+ lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
Luxeon Rebel 060-bin (126+ lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
SSC P4 S1-bin (127-141 lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
SSC P4 S2-bin (141-165 lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
Luxeon Rebel 070-bin (147+ lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
SSC P4 T1-bin (165-188 lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
Luxeon Rebel 080-bin (168+ lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
Cree XRE/XPE P4-bin (177-192 lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
SSC P4 T2-bin (188-214 lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
Luxeon Rebel 090-bin (189+ lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
Cree XRE/XPE Q2-bin (192-207 lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
Cree XRE/XPE Q3-bin (207-220 lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
Luxeon Rebel 100-bin (210+ lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
SSC P4 U1-bin (214-235 lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
Cree XRE/XPE Q4-bin (220-233 lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
Luxeon Rebel ES (225+ lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
Luxeon Rebel 110-bin (231+ lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)*
Cree XRE/XPE Q5-bin (233-251 lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
SSC P4 U2-bin (235-256 lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
Cree XRE/XPE R2-bin (251-268 lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
SSC P4 U3-bin (256-280 lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)*
Cree XRE/XPE R3-bin (268-286 lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)
Cree XRE/XPE R4-bin (286-306 lm @ 1A, ~3.5W)*
Cree XPG R2-bin (380-406 lm @ 1.5A, ~5W)
Cree XPG R3-bin (406-433 lm @ 1.5A, ~5W)
Cree XPG R4-bin (433-463 lm @ 1.5A, ~5W)
SSC P7 A-bin (440-570 lm @ 2.8A, ~10W)
Cree XPG R5-bin (463-493 lm @ 1.5A, ~5W)
Cree MCE H-bin (490-560 lm @ 2.8A, ~10W)
Cree XPG S2-bin (493-520 lm @ 1.5A, ~5W)
Cree XPG S3-bin (520-547 lm @ 1.5A, ~5W)*
Cree MCE J-bin (560-648 lm @ 2.8A, ~10W)
SSC P7 B-bin (570-700 lm @ 2.8A, ~10W)
Luminus SST-50 F-bin (635-823 lm @ 5A, ~18W)
Cree MCE K-bin (648-753 lm @ 2.8A, ~10W)
SSC P7 C-bin (700-800 lm @ 2.8A, ~10W)
Cree MCE M-bin (753-858 lm @ 2.8A, ~10W)
SSC P7 D-bin (800-900 lm @ 2.8A, ~10W)
Luminus SST-50 G-bin (823-999 lm @ 5A, ~18W)
Cree XM-L T5-Bin (845-910 lm @ 3.0A, ~10W)
Cree MCE N-bin (858-962 lm @ 2.8A, ~10W)
SSC P7 E-bin (900-1100 lm @ 2.8A, ~10W)*
Cree XM-L T6-Bin (910-975 lm @ 3.0A, ~10W)
Cree MCE P-bin (962-1085 lm @ 2.8A, ~10W)*
Cree XM-L U2-Bin (975-1040 lm @ 3.0A, ~10W)*
Luminus SST-50 H-bin (999-1175 lm @ 5A, ~18W)
Cree XM-L U3-Bin (1040-1105 lm @ 3.0A, ~10W)*
Luminus SST-50 J-bin (1175-1410 lm @ 5A, ~18W)
Luminus SST-50 K-bin (1410-1645 lm @ 5A, ~18W)*
Luminus SST-90 K-bin (1410-1645 lm @ 9A, ~34W)
Luminus SST-90 L-bin (1645-1998 lm @ 9A, ~34W)
Luminus SST-90 M-bin (1998-2350 lm @ 9A, ~34W)
Luminus SST-90 N-bin (2350-2820 lm @ 9A, ~34W)
Luminus SST-90 P-bin (2820-3408 lm @ 9A, ~34W)*

Red = <60 lpw min.
Orange = 60-75 lpw min.
Green = 75-90 lpw min.
Blue = >90 lpw min.

*(not yet available)
[EDIT: colorized according to approx. lpw]

 

if you know that .. you'll be wise  like don ... there is a test in 3 weeks

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

Don
Don's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 months ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 16:32
Posts: 6617
Location: Scotland

Boaz wrote:

if you know that .. you'll be wise  like don ... there is a test in 3 weeks

 

I certainly don't know all that - I just know where to find it when I need to.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

jb1
Offline
Last seen: 19 hours 37 min ago
Joined: 02/07/2011 - 13:21
Posts: 527
Location: Texas

Thanks for posting this list. It helps big time. I'm going to print it out and keep it handy. Laughing

Match
Match's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 9 months ago
Joined: 11/14/2010 - 11:57
Posts: 1488
Location: South Carolina, USA

"And in swoops Boaz to take all the fun out of the Easter Egg hunt..."

 

1C3Man,  Boaz just hooked you up.  That's a lot of excellent information to go over, and now it's all in one neat spot.

Nice work!

1C3 MAN
Offline
Last seen: 4 years 1 month ago
Joined: 03/03/2011 - 02:23
Posts: 11
Location: UNITED STATES

WOW. thats the stuff i was hoping to find thanks alot.

Boaz
Boaz's picture
Online
Last seen: 5 min 47 sec ago
Joined: 11/07/2010 - 09:31
Posts: 7792
Location: Birthplace of Aviation

1C3 MAN wrote:

WOW. thats the stuff i was hoping to find thanks alot.

It's a gift.....

 

some got it .. some don't

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

fishinfool
fishinfool's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 5 months ago
Joined: 03/09/2010 - 00:30
Posts: 4342
Location: Hilo, Hawaii

I don't. Frown

 

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

Piers
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 9 months ago
Joined: 01/18/2011 - 20:31
Posts: 896
Location: Bolton, UK

That's because you keep gifting it away Silly

fishinfool
fishinfool's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 5 months ago
Joined: 03/09/2010 - 00:30
Posts: 4342
Location: Hilo, Hawaii

Pook wrote:

That's because you keep gifting it away Silly

LOL 

 

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

trooplewis
trooplewis's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 4 months ago
Joined: 03/26/2011 - 15:35
Posts: 2613
Location: San Diego

lpw min = uh, lumens per watt, minimum?  So blue are the most efficient/longest running (in terms of battery life)?

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

Foy
Foy's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 years 9 months ago
Joined: 01/02/2011 - 17:56
Posts: 3009
Location: Las Vegas

Here's a noob with a (probably) already asked/answered question:

How many amps do you suppose my stock L2P or L2 is pulling with the 3-mode Ultra Fire XM-L from Manafont with a Solarforce 2400 mAh 18650?  Are they seriously at or near 900 lumens?  I was thinking they were closer to a real world 400 to 600 range.

veryusefullistboazFoy

No referral links and nothing embedded . . . ever.

                      &nbsp

Don
Don's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 months ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 16:32
Posts: 6617
Location: Scotland

Be-Seen Triker wrote:

At 3 amps, according to the Relative Flux vs Current chart, you get 325% of 280 lumens to equal right at 910 lumens.  And the XM-L T6 is actually rated to do this without issues... AS LONG AS YOU COOL THE JUNCTION TEMPERATURE! (the junction is the actual yellow bits in the dome).  

[Pedantic stuff alert]

Apologies for the attack of pedantry about to emerge.

The yellow stuff is the phosphor which is actually coated on the die which emits blue light. The phosphor turns the blue light into a range of frequencies leading to us seeing white light.

The junction is the bit that emits the blue light. Since the phosphor coating is about ten nanometres from the die, this is an ultra-pedantic point. In practice what you see is the yellow bit which is the bit which gets hot.

But that's enough pedantry for one day.

[/Pedantic stuff alert]

 

Actually, I reckon this is an excellent summary.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Foy
Foy's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 years 9 months ago
Joined: 01/02/2011 - 17:56
Posts: 3009
Location: Las Vegas

Thank you.

Foy

No referral links and nothing embedded . . . ever.

                      &nbsp

Piers
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 9 months ago
Joined: 01/18/2011 - 20:31
Posts: 896
Location: Bolton, UK

Don wrote:
 In practice what you see is the yellow bit which is the bit which gets hot.

 

Now that I didn't know!

 

So that mean that blue LEDs are cooler at a given current? (or would be if they were availlable at the same spec as white ones)

Don
Don's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 months ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 16:32
Posts: 6617
Location: Scotland

Pook wrote:

Don wrote:
 In practice what you see is the yellow bit which is the bit which gets hot.

 

Now that I didn't know!

 

So that mean that blue LEDs are cooler at a given current? (or would be if they were availlable at the same spec as white ones)

 

As far as I'm aware, all white LEDs are phosphor coated blue LEDs - there are inevitably some losses in the wavelength changes, though what I meant (and said rather badly - in fact wrongly) was that the yellow-coated bit is the bit that gets hot. Most of the heat will be from the LED, not the phosphor. Craig over at FNF has a spectroscope and has done measurements on all sorts of LEDs. 

http://flashlightnews.net/forum/index.php?topic=798

The spectrum of just about every white LED will show more blue than would be optimal. Sixty545 here has done interesting colour measurements on current LEDs.

The parent blue LEDs (those under the phosphor of white LEDs) will be brighter, but not far off monochromatic and blue light is not a good match for human eyes. Blue light makes everyone around you look ill. AFAIK nobody sells non-phosphor high power LEDs in their native blue. But it wouldn't be the first time I've been wrong....

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Pages