15,000 Lumen Bridgelux C9000 Light Engine

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texaspyro
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Here’s a pic of the reflector sitting on the LED:

Here it is lighting up the sphere ‘o many mysteries. What is not obvious is that the room is also lit by 10,000 lumens of overhead lighting. For some reason, those lumens take a back seat to the big guy:

Beam shot with reflector. Ceiling is 8 feet from the top of the reflector. Those PAR20 fixtures are 3 feet apart in the Y axis and 4 feet in the X axis.

MRsDNF
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Are you sure your sphere's not about to catch fire? It also appears that you have an interesting collection of electrical wiring and gadgetry there. Looks like fun.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

texaspyro
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Doing a little trig on the beamshot image looks like the beam width (full width) out of the reflector is around 16 degrees (with an SST-90 it is supposed to be 10 degrees). Works out to around a .25 lux spot around 600 feet wide at 2000 feet.

texaspyro
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MRsDNF wrote:
Are you sure your sphere’s not about to catch fire?

Funny you should ask… the lights sit on a couple of blocks of polyethylene foam to get them up to the sphere port. I started a run (with a different heatsink) and after around 5 minutes of observation went to work on the computer in the other room. Sometime later I heard a loud BANG!

What happened was one of the cheap Chinese clip leads to the fan decided to uncrimp the connection between the wire and the clip (hint, only buy leads that are soldered). LED lost cooling, temp rose to over 100C. The heatsink and LED then did their best imitation of the China Syndrome and melted their way through the foam blocks (perfect, form fitting rectangular hole). About 3/4 the way through the foam, one of the power connections to the LED unsoldered itself. The LED driver wanted to keep 5A to the LED, but saw no current flowing so it kept increasing the output voltage. A couple milliseconds later, the voltage exceeded the 35V output capacitor rating and the cap blew with a satisfying BANG (I’ve since added a diode that keeps the output voltage below 35V.

texaspyro
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I did a couple more lux tests. With no reflector (120+ degree beam) it did 7000 lux at 1 meter.

With the 90mm aspheric it did 50,000 lux. I can’t get the lens close enough to the emitter to project a tight image since it is mounted in the SST-90 maglight head. The beam was around the same size as with the reflector, but with less spill.

attitude
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some night time beam shots me interested Party

weird i just get addicted to flashlight like in a blink of an eye.

texaspyro
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attitude wrote:
some night time beam shots me interested Party

The problem with night time beam shots is when I turn it on, the night time seems to disappear 8)

JonnyC
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texaspyro wrote:
attitude wrote:
some night time beam shots me interested :party:
The problem with night time beam shots is when I turn it on, the night time seems to disappear 8)

All of these crazy builds you have and I have yet to see an outdoor beam shot Wink

texaspyro
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JonnyC wrote:
All of these crazy builds you have and I have yet to see an outdoor beam shot Wink

There is one of a 5000 lumen array here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/799?page=5#comment-35263

JonnyC
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texaspyro wrote:
JonnyC wrote:
All of these crazy builds you have and I have yet to see an outdoor beam shot ;)
There is one of a 5000 lumen array here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/799?page=5#comment-35263[/quote]

 

There is??  I just see daylight there Silly

texaspyro
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JonnyC wrote:
There is??  I just see daylight there Silly

Yep, that’s the problem. Nighttime hides when the big boys come out to play.

The 15,000 lumen device is wired to a bunch of instruments… not very portable.

texaspyro
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I got in a couple of those 600 watt drivers (http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-600W-10-60V-to-12-80V-Boost-Converter-Step...) They are about 3 times the volume of the 150 watt one. They don’t require any mods for constant current output. They come shipped from the factory set for 56V out and 2.5A (ymmv). It also has a fuse on the input so that if the output FET shorts your batteries won’t get all uppity and kill you.

I cranked the output voltage setting down to 33V (a little above the led array Vf) and fired it up. Voila lotsa light. Cranked the current up to 5A. Voila, mega freakin’ lotsa light. Efficiency is around 90%. The heatsink barely gets warm so it doesn’t need much in the way of airflow to keep it happy.

Next I tried it with the dimmer. It works a lot better, but below around 35% I get an occasional blip (maybe every couple of seconds) but no puke mode flicker. It is worse at 35 kHz PWM than at 120 Hz. I need to play some with different PWM rates and see how it behaves.

texaspyro
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I may just not use PWM for dimming, but instead wire an external pot in place of the driver’s 100K current limit pot. I checked and 9.09K gives me 5A, 56K gives 2.5 A. I figure a 9K resistor in series with a 100K pot should be just about right.

By not having to PWM the LED, that frees up a pin on the micro and I can do all the monitoring and thermal/battery protection with a ATTINY85 (or TINY13 for that matter). Using a micro that has more pins/ADC channels would let me independently monitor each cell in the battery pack, though.

texaspyro
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Before adding an external current limit pot to the driver, I figured it would be a good idea to try running the one on the board through it’s range. It won’t go below 1.25A.

Around the 2.5A area it gets a bit woogedy. Just touching the pot with a screwdriver or even touching the (isolated) heat sink causes the current to shift around 200 mA. Above or below 2.5A and it is OK.

Dim it, damn it! Who’d a thought dimming a 150 watt LED would be such a pain… I really don’t want to have to design my own boost driver just to get a decent dim.

texaspyro
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I took the 100K current limit pot off the board of one of the drivers and replaced it with an external 500K pot. That lets it dim down to 600 mA (about 10%). For the best dimming profile the pot should be an audio taper pot.

There is the same glitch in the current output around 2.5 amps. As you increase the current from 2.5A to 3A, the current drops back down to 2.5A and then starts rising again as you turn the pot some more. This issue looks like it is inherent to the driver design.

There are a couple of issues with using the a manual current adjust pot to do the dimming instead of PWM. First is a potential color temperature shift with LED current. This does not seem to be a problem with the Bridgelux arrays.

Second is the fact that the control processor can’t do things like backing off the LED drive if the battery voltage starts falling or the LED starts overheating… you can only turn the light off. There are some digitally controlled pots out there that might be usable.

MRsDNF
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We are all still following this even though were not responding. Keep it up.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

texaspyro
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MRsDNF wrote:

We are all still following this even though were not responding. Keep it up.

Darn, I thought I was yammering to myself and those pesky voices in my head…

jamio
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Yes we are following, it's just not many understand all this stuff so well I guess. But this is interesting and there is always something new to learn, so I'm

+1 with MRsDNF, keep it up! Smile

Flomotion
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Wondering would you mind sharing a link to that C9000 Bridgelux array?

Flomotion

texaspyro
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http://www.bridgelux.com/assets/files/DS25%20Bridgelux%20RS%20Array%20Da...

Digikey and Newark sell them. They are now less than $60.

Microa
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I am also follewing your project. Keep it up. Especially interested in to PMW the LED with an Attiny AVR.

texaspyro
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Microa wrote:
I am also follewing your project. Keep it up. Especially interested in to PMW the LED with an Attiny AVR.

I use this board for a lot of things. I’ve modified the firmware for many times. Also modified it to handle MUCH larger loads and voltages.
http://www.dalewheat.com/news/12v-dimmer-kit-v2-now-available/

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Flomotion

Microa
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Thanks for the link. I will build one for testing.

CarpentryHero
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Wow, that’s awesome. How many 18650’s to power it, seven? Big Smile

I’m glad I’m not the only flashlight collector out there, I was beginning to think I was strange.
My name is Kendall and I’m a Flashaholic from western Canada

texaspyro
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CarpentryHero wrote:
Wow, that’s awesome. How many 18650’s to power it, seven? Big Smile

With 12V in it draws around 15 amps. Power can be provided by a 4S – 8S LiPo pack or a 4S A123 20 Ah LiFePO4 pack or a lead acid battery. An pack made of IMR cells or a power tool pack would also work fine. The input voltage needs to be less than around 30V to work with the DC-DC converters that I have been playing with. My 180,000 and 540,000 lumen arrays used a custom buck converter that was driven from dual-redundant 16S A123 packs when in battery backup mode.

I was going to use the A123 cells, but those may not be readily available in the near future.

CarpentryHero
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That’s Awesome, both as a stationary light or a cordless searchlight

I’m glad I’m not the only flashlight collector out there, I was beginning to think I was strange.
My name is Kendall and I’m a Flashaholic from western Canada

eebowler
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[quote=texaspyro My 180,000 and 540,000 lumen arrays [/quote]
WHAT!? Shocked Have you showcased these here? Links pics? wow!

My gratitude to those who are willing and able to help others (in whatever way you can)! Being human is more than just existing for yourself. Smile

sacra
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I’m running a 30E4000 array (‘E’ for 80cri) in a retrofitted floor lamp. Bridgelux claims 4725lm at 2.1A; I’m driving at 2.5A so the Flux-Current chart on the datasheet suggests it’s running around 5600lm. Mounted to a salvaged CPU heatsink and cooled by a small, undervolted fan. A custom pyramid base was constructed to house the power supply and provide stability.

Overall it works pretty well. Light quality is better than the CFLs it replaced; it’s comparable to halogen but it has an slight pink tinge if you do an A-B comparison. I’m curious to know what the 90cri array output looks like.

Kudos to texaspyro for turning me onto Bridgelux arrays last year.

Next project will be an outdoor floodlights based on a couple C9000 arrays.

texaspyro
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sacra wrote:
I’m curious to know what the 90cri array output looks like.

Bridgelux has a new Decora line… with CRI’s up to 98! Not sure where to get them though.

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