Review: Sky Ray 9xT6 - The King of HOT Rods?

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Flomotion
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I know this is a 7x T6, but has 4, 26650s, looks kind of like a Updated Tr 3T6.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trustfire-8000Lm-7x-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-Flashlight-Torch-4×-26650-50W-Lamp-Charger-/200828180182?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item2ec24ad6d6

So does anyone own one of these?

Flomotion

Richie086
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Flomotion wrote:
I know this is a 7x T6, but has 4, 26650s, looks kind of like a Updated Tr 3T6.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trustfire-8000Lm-7x-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-Flashlight-Torch-4×-26650-50W-Lamp-Charger-/200828180182?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item2ec24ad6d6

So does anyone own one of these?

I know some have it on this forum. Best to check out the thread we have for it. I’m sure it’ll answer any questions you may have about it.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/10457

Richie

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FMcamaroZ28 wrote:
Werner wrote:
Soshine 26650 are okay too 68mm long

My head doesn’t unscrew I have tried this sometimes, perhaps am I not wrong enough and I will not make scratches in it with tools…

Let the light run on high for a few mins. It unscrews real easy then. I did it with my hands. There’s only a small amount of thermal paste holding the parts together. Just watch when you are unscrewing that the reflector does not move. You may accidentally break the leads.

I didn’t bother removing the bezel on mine, but I did remove the collar holding down the driver before unscrewing the head. I figured there wouldn’t be any chance of twisting up the wires to the driver with it hanging out of the head. Hard to believe all this current is going through those two little wires.

Richie

Werner
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Tried just before I posted to unscrew it, cold or hot no difference used a towel also. perhaps I have screwed it too fast in when I screwed the other parts together…
I don’t want to change the driver either, until we can get some mini nuclear reactors for powering it….

Edit tried again with some work gloves with latex on them, very easy too unscrew now. Mine has a big drop of the thermal grease on the inside. LOL

Wondering why there is void room next to the FET
Data sheet from Fet http://vfiles.cizgi.com.tr/tagem/dms_dosya/1800/p0903bdg.pdf

Cables are 26awg orawg28 can’t read it good, to thin in every case…

FMcamaroZ28
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Mini nuclear reactor you say?

http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020165

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nice pics of the innards

is the surface that the emitters sit on an integral part of the head? Almost looks like it isn’t…and it is a plate that they fujik’d into the head?

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FMcamaroZ28
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No its one solid piece. Its all anodized and everything.

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FMcamaroZ28 wrote:
Mini nuclear reactor you say?

http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020165

I’m new to all this and have no knowledge of modding…Sorry.

Would this allow the light to be brighter by regulating the flow of electricity more efficiently?

dthrckt
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I doubt that driver is more efficient (but it could be) – the big difference is it draws more power (if batteries are capable) and delivers more power to the leds.

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I recently purchased one of these from RIC (still in route), and every time I get one of these multi-LED lights that use 26650 cells, the cell stack is either too tall (all protected cells)or too short (unprotected cells) for the body. My question to the battery guru’s on the site, do all the cells need to be protected? Logic tells me, as long as one is protected, the others don’t need to be. As long as the base cell is the same for all three, the one protected cell effectively protects all the cells and flashlight internals from damage due under voltage, over current, etc. Once the protected cell trips, the whole assembly will shut down regardless. Is this true?

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Not true, because cells are always different.
If you have 3 cells one could have less capacity or less charged so this cell will get over discharged when it is not protected.

Only thing one protected could do is to prevent from shorting the circuit.

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hence i feel safer using it in 18650 format , has anyone on here ever had one that blew up in their hands ? Silly

yeah a 9x or 12x led in skyray king type setup would be nice but mayb too hot or chunky to hold with 4× 26650. i feel the sky ray king is already perfect fit for me unless you are 2 meters tall with massive hands i dont think u want to hold anything bigger then skyray king. Smile

weird i just get addicted to flashlight like in a blink of an eye.

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FMcamaroZ28 wrote:
Mini nuclear reactor you say?

http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020165

I can’t believe I placed an order for this driver. I must be nuts to want to do this to an already super bright flood monster that took out my Trustfire TR-J12 in a beam comparision.

I did ask if this 9X driver can be reprogrammed for better modes like some of their others, 100%-75%-50%-30%-10%, but I was told this particular driver can’t be and must remain as a 3-mode, but luckily no flashy modes. They are going to upgrade the driver at some point to the modes I listed and with no blinkies of course. I wasn’t given a time table for when that’ll happen.

Richie

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Richie086 wrote:
FMcamaroZ28 wrote:
Mini nuclear reactor you say?

http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020165

I can’t believe I placed an order for this driver. I must be nuts to want to do this to an already super bright flood monster that took out my Trustfire TR-J12 in a beam comparision.

I did ask if this 9X driver can be reprogrammed for better modes like some of their others, 100%-75%-50%-30%-10%, but I was told this particular driver can’t be and must remain as a 3-mode, but luckily no flashy modes. They are going to upgrade the driver at some point to the modes I listed and with no blinkies of course. I wasn’t given a time table for when that’ll happen.

Take pictures of how you mod it and let us know how hot it gets!

…Because i want to do the same mod!

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FMcamaroZ28 wrote:
Richie086 wrote:
FMcamaroZ28 wrote:
Mini nuclear reactor you say?

http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020165

I can’t believe I placed an order for this driver. I must be nuts to want to do this to an already super bright flood monster that took out my Trustfire TR-J12 in a beam comparision.

I did ask if this 9X driver can be reprogrammed for better modes like some of their others, 100%-75%-50%-30%-10%, but I was told this particular driver can’t be and must remain as a 3-mode, but luckily no flashy modes. They are going to upgrade the driver at some point to the modes I listed and with no blinkies of course. I wasn’t given a time table for when that’ll happen.

Take pictures of how you mod it and let us know how hot it gets!

…Because i want to do the same mod!

Will do with before and after beam shots too.

Richie

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My light comes in tomorrow. Please let us know how that works out for you. I am definitely interested in doing that mod.

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http://budgetlightforum.com/node/16514#comment-285021
Christmas special on wallbuys 9xt6 for 50$

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Werner wrote:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/16514#comment-285021
Christmas special on wallbuys 9xt6 for 50$

It looks like its a trustfire, and this one is a skyray.
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Is there any difference in brightness between using 3 18650’s and 3 26650’s in this light?

I got mine today but I am still waiting on my 26650’s to arrive so I threw some trustfire 18650’s in there to try it out. HOLY MOLY ITS BRIGHT! Im hoping it will be even brighter with the 26650’s.

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Not that i could notice, no.

But my testing was done with Panasonic 3100’s protected. I cant vouch for the trustfires.

Decreased run time I’m sure.

That Ninja Guy
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Thank you for the very detailed review! Smile

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Awesome, I’ve been gone for several months and within 10 minutes I find something calling my name to order lol. Cash

Gen1three
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Just wondering if you have a suggestion for a copper slug to use? Since I will be re-wiring mine , I figure it couldn’t hurt to add some better heatsinking and I liked your idea. Also, does anyone have a suggestion for what type of wire to use to re-wire this thing?

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If you look at the back of where the leds are mounted, you will see that its just a recessed cavity and the LEDS sit on a “shelf” that is only max 1/4” thick. You would need a custom made piece of copper ideally that would fit into that hole as thick as you could make it.

I don’t have my light near me right now but I’d be willing to bet you can make that 1”+ and it would help in taking the heat off the leds a bit better. It would also make the head HEAVY.

I haven’t done that to mine, to be honest.

As for wire – the stuff on there is pretty cheap. Its probably not marked but I’d be willing to bet its somewhere in the 30+ AWG area. The biggest flexible wire you can comfortably fit on there is only going to help you. Especially if you thinking of upgrading the driver.

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FMcamaroZ28 wrote:
If you look at the back of where the leds are mounted, you will see that its just a recessed cavity and the LEDS sit on a “shelf” that is only max 1/4” thick. You would need a custom made piece of copper ideally that would fit into that hole as thick as you could make it.

I don’t have my light near me right now but I’d be willing to bet you can make that 1”+ and it would help in taking the heat off the leds a bit better. It would also make the head HEAVY.

I haven’t done that to mine, to be honest.

As for wire – the stuff on there is pretty cheap. Its probably not marked but I’d be willing to bet its somewhere in the 30+ AWG area. The biggest flexible wire you can comfortably fit on there is only going to help you. Especially if you thinking of upgrading the driver.

It looks like the wire on mine is labeled. It is 28 AWG and rated at 150º C. I count 7 strands. I was planning on replacing it with this 20 AWG silver plated, teflon coated 19 strand wire. It appears to be the same wire that jufran was selling, and that would mean an outer diameter of 1.46 mm compared to the current ~1.2 mm outer diameter wire on there. Thankfully not much bigger and rated to 200ºC.

If the copper slug has to be custom made, it sounds a bit more time consuming/expensive than it would be worth. However, if I find out where to submit small orders for custom machining, I might do this. I was thinking about replacing the LED’s with some neutral white T6-3C ones too, but it would cost ~37$ for the LED’s, plus the ~6$ fujik to mount them. Is there any reason why the stock T6 1A cool white LED’s can’t be swapped out for these?

I figure I’ll have to use these plastic insulation gaskets that came with the light…:

But I was considering using these as a replacement. I don’t know if they’ll fit, but I figure it’s worth a shot.

Anyway, if I get a functional driver, do these LED’s seem like a suitable replacement? I would really love a crazy neutral white flooder like this.

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I am not sure if the LEDwiring must be changed but the wiring from driver to led has to be replaced for sure to awg 16 or thicker…
I am unsure about a led swap, 36$ to mod a 60$ flashlight…?

Gen1three
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Werner wrote:
I am not sure if the LEDwiring must be changed but the wiring from driver to led has to be replaced for sure to awg 16 or thicker… I am unsure about a led swap, 36$ to mod a 60$ flashlight…?

Sadly I paid ~95$ for the light shipped. The money wasn’t a problem though. Receiving a malfunctioning light was. Anyway…

So you recommend AWG 16? Anything wrong with using the 20 AWG instead?

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I have paid about 120$ with shipping and taxes, but this doesn’t count. It counts for which price you can get it now. And at wallbuys another 9×6 is offered for 57$ including shipping.

Bigger is better, awg20 will do the job quite good. The length of the wire is so short that even the crappy stock wires work. But it’s a must to replace the main wire through which all the current flows.
I have only replaced the main wire from driver to LED, I had first used awg16 but it was to thick to place the reflector and front cap perfectly. So I finally used awg22, I soldered on every 3 led group one awg22 for + and one for -.


.
.

I taped the underside of the reflector with kaptontape to make sure nothing can short.
Replacing the LED wires with thicker ones can lead to a misfitting front cap.
.
The tailcap current gets increased a lot, it is now 7-8A with not fully loaded batteries. The driver is a pulsed direct drive, so tailcap current is LED current.
If we get 6A tailcapcurrent every LED gets 2 A.

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Awesome… I like the concept of the insulating kaptontape. Too bad it’s so expensive. Hard to justify that, given its limited use to me. Are there any cheaper options for something similar?

I don’t really know much about drivers to be honest. What is a pulsed direct drive? Thank you for the pics by the way!

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That's really neat work there Werner.

 

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