Review: Sky Ray 9xT6 - The King of HOT Rods?

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Werner
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Gen1three wrote:
Awesome… I like the concept of the insulating kaptontape. Too bad it’s so expensive. Hard to justify that, given its limited use to me. Are there any cheaper options for something similar?

I don’t really know much about drivers to be honest. What is a pulsed direct drive? Thank you for the pics by the way!

Kapton is real affordable, I like it a lot.
I used 10mm wide kapton but I have ordered the 30mm variant,too.
One fasttech 30m are sold for 2$ …..rather cheap mine was more expensive

I am not sure how to call that driver, so I created the name myself.
Between the LEDs and the batteries is a FET who drives the LEDs. We can see this FET as an electronic switch opened or closed with the controller. The controller opens the FeT in pulses(we can here it, some noise).

I also added a o ring and cut the “pimple” on the tailboot, nice tips I had read here some times for making a flashlight tail standing. Now it can tail stand better.

Edit: I tested with almost full batteries 12.3V and I got almost 9A. I tested only 5 minutes, now I am recharging to really full batteries and will test the new peak current :bigsmile:
I was a bit surprised because the soshine 26650 are claimed as 8A max.
Edit2: I have charged them up and then pushed them with a power supply to 4.2-4.21V, current was 9.4A.

FMcamaroZ28
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So just by upgrading the wires you upped the current that much?

Where did you get that wire?

Werner
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I upgraded the wire and I added a copper wire on the positive spring on the driver. Because I recognized that the current increased every time when I pressed the batteries harder down the tube.

Hobbyking sells really nice silicone wire.
It’s ultra flexible and the insulation is heat resistant.
I had ordered 1m on some different sizes, so that I have same here in case I need it.
I also have requested them on fasttech.

Edit: I have thought about it and I can’t really explain why this increased current. I have measured resistance from the removed wire and my DMM showed zero Ohms….?
But then I powered the wire with 5A from my power supply and it gets hot, I tried one of the awg22 and it stayed cool and it was double the length…..?
So I am now puzzled.
Can someone please try to improve just the spring and measure current before and after.

Gen1three
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Thanks for the high temp tape link from FastTech! That’s perfect. I’m going to mask my reflector as well.

Please keep us posted on what you find out about the increased output from your mods. Very interested. Thanks!

karlnapf
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My driver is broken, nice burnt smell that’s it. All the other parts are easy to dismantle except the driver, is it glued in?
Tips please

FMcamaroZ28
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It is not glued in at all. Easy to take out.

A pair of snap ring pliers on the back of the head will unscrew the metal ring holding it in place

The head comes apart in two pieces as per my pictures.

What new driver are you using?

Werner
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Please make a picture of the burned driver.

karlnapf
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I don’t have such pliers, I will get some and then let you know. You can’t see anything on it or at least I can’t see it that something is burnt.
Just smelled and doesn’t work anymore. If I have to buy an new one I give this Kaidomain http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020165
a go should be interesting for 20 dollars

oRAirwolf
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karlnapf wrote:
I don’t have such pliers, I will get some and then let you know. You can’t see anything on it or at least I can’t see it that something is burnt. Just smelled and doesn’t work anymore. If I have to buy an new one I give this Kaidomain http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020165 a go should be interesting for 20 dollars

Hmm, I am very fascinated by this. Let us know if that works out for you.

tekordecki
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just posting a reply on here so its in MY POSTS so its easy to find for future reference. does anyone know of an easier way to maybe bookmark a thread for easy future locating? sorry for the interruption, thanks, ted.
p.s. great beamshots, thank you and everyone else who replied for listing all the detailed info. really helpful for a newb like me, appreciate everyones efforts.

FMcamaroZ28
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karlnapf wrote:
I don’t have such pliers, I will get some and then let you know. You can’t see anything on it or at least I can’t see it that something is burnt. Just smelled and doesn’t work anymore. If I have to buy an new one I give this Kaidomain http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020165 a go should be interesting for 20 dollars

Tweezers will work to – i actually just use a pair of needle nosed pliers and be careful.

Good luck with that driver, let us know how it works out for you!

Richie086 else had tried but got a bum driver. This Thread shows his issues. I’m not sure how it turned out for him.

tekordecki wrote:
just posting a reply on here so its in MY POSTS so its easy to find for future reference. does anyone know of an easier way to maybe bookmark a thread for easy future locating? sorry for the interruption, thanks, ted. p.s. great beamshots, thank you and everyone else who replied for listing all the detailed info. really helpful for a newb like me, appreciate everyones efforts.

On the bottom right corner of the first post there is a “click to subscribe” button that will do that.

tekordecki
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thanks camaro and werner. thats much better. sorry for nooBness.

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Brining back an older thread. When I follow the link in the op it takes me to a “Trustfire” 9xT6 light. Although the pics are Sky Ray. Is this how it’s always been, or is it a different light now?

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Chicken Drumstick wrote:
Brining back an older thread. When I follow the link in the op it takes me to a “Trustfire” 9xT6 light. Although the pics are Sky Ray. Is this how it’s always been, or is it a different light now?

I noticed that yesterday too. If anyone is to purchase a Skyray through CNQ, I’d email them first for clarification.

Richie

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The one I got from CNQG was an Ultrafire. I think they just give you whatever they get for the cheapest.

Werner
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One thing I would mention for a long time: the kaidomain driver is for 9 LEDs in series so it won’t work with the stock wiring in the 9xT6. Stock wiring is 3s3p

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Werner wrote:
One thing I would mention for a long time: the kaidomain driver is for 9 LEDs in series so it won’t work with the stock wiring in the 9xT6. Stock wiring is 3s3p

Hi Werner,

When I tried using the KD 9x driver in both my Skyray and AK-47, it worked with 2 cells but would get screwy once the 3rd cell was put in.

But my question is this; why do the manufacturers wire these lights in 3s3p, is it better due to the very thin gauge wiring they use?
I have been considering rewiring my AK-47 in series and eliminating the 3s3p and using 22g silver wire, but just wondered what you think?

Richie

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3Sx3P LEDs actually requires thicker wires than 9S since the current in them would be three times as much. Running 9S would might not be as efficient for the driver since it requires a higher voltage boost ratio.

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texaspyro wrote:
3Sx3P LEDs actually requires thicker wires than 9S since the current in them would be three times as much. Running 9S would might not be as efficient for the driver since it requires a higher voltage boost ratio.

Thanks Texaspyro Wink

Richie

Werner
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The KD driver is a boost driver so it only works when battery voltage is lower than LED voltage…thats why no one tested this with a positive result in this light. I wanted to hint that longer but I forgot and was reminded as I surfed through KD today…

If you want to test the KD driver than you have to change LED wiring, but thats not so much work as you only have to resolder the parallel wires in series.

The manufacturer do that because it is simpler, 3 LEDs in series can be direct driven with 3 cells and the skyray 9T6 driver is just a controller and a FET, the only thing which confuses me is that the driver is not on 100% duty cycle in high…???

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Werner wrote:
The KD driver is a boost driver so it only works when battery voltage is lower than LED voltage…thats why no one tested this with a positive result in this light. I wanted to hint that longer but I forgot and was reminded as I surfed through KD today…

If you want to test the KD driver than you have to change LED wiring, but thats not so much work as you only have to resolder the parallel wires in series.

The manufacturer do that because it is simpler, 3 LEDs in series can be direct driven with 3 cells and the skyray 9T6 driver is just a controller and a FET, the only thing which confuses me is that the driver is not on 100% duty cycle in high…???

Hi Werner,

I’ll check this out on my Skyray and see what happens Smile

Richie

Werner
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I am tempted

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Werner wrote:
I am tempted

Question, what would happen if using the KD driver, and I eliminated the parallel wiring, and used the 22g wired all in series? Would the silver wire be able to handle the higher current? Would I loose any driver efficiency?

Richie

texaspyro
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Richie086 wrote:
Question, what would happen if using the KD driver, and I eliminated the parallel wiring, and used the 22g wired all in series? Would the silver wire be able to handle the higher current? Would I loose any driver efficiency?

Series connection requires LESS current and can use smaller wire than a parallel connection.

Werner
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like texaspyro wrote.
Higher voltage and therefor lower current lead to less energy lost, thats why the power supply lines are normally in high voltage.
If you solder them in series the resulting current through all wires is 3A.

In Stock the tailcapcurrent flows through the wires between driver and LED and a third of that current flows through the LED wires.
If you mod it all wires see the same current from about 3A…

AWG22 is good for that. The stock wire is to small in anyway

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FMcamaroZ28 wrote:
If you look at the back of where the leds are mounted, you will see that its just a recessed cavity and the LEDS sit on a “shelf” that is only max 1/4” thick. You would need a custom made piece of copper ideally that would fit into that hole as thick as you could make it.

I don’t have my light near me right now but I’d be willing to bet you can make that 1”+ and it would help in taking the heat off the leds a bit better. It would also make the head HEAVY.

I haven’t done that to mine, to be honest.

As for wire – the stuff on there is pretty cheap. Its probably not marked but I’d be willing to bet its somewhere in the 30+ AWG area. The biggest flexible wire you can comfortably fit on there is only going to help you. Especially if you thinking of upgrading the driver.

You could try making a clay mould of the space you want to fill with metal and see if you have a local sculpture workshop – the one near me can do bronze and copper melting and pouring into a mould. It’ll cost a bit, but probably way less than paying someone at UK prices to machine a chink of copper for you. Machine shops here charge a LOT.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

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I have my Skyray 9x T6 LED’s about 1/3 rewired in series at this point. I don’t think I’ll complain about the price of these lights in the future. This is a lot of precision work to wire one of these. I’m used to rewiring 1-3 LED’s, but this is my first 9x light. Each 22AWG silver wire has to be custom cut to the proper length, pre-tinned, and care must be taken when soldering each wire to insure it is positioned properly so the reflector centering rings mount correctly. Not a job you want to rush through.

I’ll keep you updated.

Richie

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I rewired my Skyray 9x T6 in series with 22g silver wire, but one of the contacts on an LED fell off, so I can’t test it until I can get a replacement LED for it. The size of the star is pretty small at 13.73 mm diameter. Figures, it’s always the last one that causes issues..LOL.

Richie

Werner
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I ripped one contact of an LED off as well, just scratch the paint of the conductive line which lead to the ripped contact. You can then solder to the copper path…

Oh that sounds confusing but I hope you get what I mean…

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Werner wrote:
I ripped one contact of an LED off as well, just scratch the paint of the conductive line which lead to the ripped contact. You can then solder to the copper path…

Oh that sounds confusing but I hope you get what I mean…

Hey Werner, sure I understand, but wouldn’t soldering to the copper path interfere with the plastic LED centering ring? I’m pretty sure without them or even one of them, the reflector will contact the wires and not work. If you do that, please let me know if it works. Thanks for the heads up.

Richie

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