I was able to put an XM-L into this nice little torch, since is my current EDC is feed at 2A in H , .400 A and .07 A Low...the driver is an AK101.
The high mode is aimed at use only in briefs periods , for no more than three or four minutes at time, that's for the cells which are over his specs and for the heat which such small body can't dissipate very well
Give more light than a MTE SSC P7 supposedly D bin at 2.8A..
Looks good! Did you have to modify the reflector at all or did it fit nicely?
All fit well however the emitter is a bit recessed from the reflector , I don't want to put a spacer to not risk the heat transfer, anyway work very well as the pics below show...the star is the 14 mm which is avalaible at KD , the emitter is KD's also... the pill is filled with molten solder almost to make contact with the components of the driver...
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hugsby 31's from Dx.... they finally delived mine 2 1/2 months later .
oh the creative and sick mind .
I don’t collect flashlights, just enjoy doing some ‘upgrades’ to a few host I like the most…today own around eight cheap torchs but looking at the last year monthly CC’s resume easily I could buy eight big tickets ones with that sum.
Press fit work fine as long a blow of solder is added over the mc7135’s ground pin which are located in the edge of the board, that solder take shape with the press and keep the board in place even out of the body. Saying that , in this particular case the head/pill is filled with molten solder, with enough room to allow the component side of the board fit, in that solder are sink (?) two wires to make the minus contact, one of them is showed in the pic …
I can't tell if that's a runny blob of solder or a wire running up that groove.
edit: Whoops. That answers that.
You could weld the aluminum instead, but a spot welder capable of that is an expensive piece of kit.
Bee-seen wrote:
We cannot solder to the aluminum body so are you counting on incidental contact (press fit) or does your torch have a spring that contacts the driver itself?
Actually you can! Its a bit tricky. Grease the aluminium part a bit then use some sandpaper (also greased) to remove oxidation (thats the only reason solder does not want to stick on) be sure there is some oily film after sanding since alu oxidizes in seconds! Then put on some soldering paste and begin soldering. If you managed to not have aluminium oxidize during the process you'll be amazed on how well solder sticks to it. :)