xml2 announced!!!!

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Tom E
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33696933 wrote:
I dont know if its me but I seem to have problems driving it at higher currents

 Yikes - it's not achieving the higher current levels?

33696933
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not sure but i think I need to relax for a bit before I try again

scaru
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Thanks for the macro pictures, I'm guessing it will be harder to dedome. Sadly the days of direct mounting to copper are over, I guess it is time to stock up on some U3s. 

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scaru wrote:

Sadly the days of direct mounting to copper are over, I guess it is time to stock up on some U3s. 


please explain, i am confused

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scaru
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Bort wrote:
scaru wrote:

Sadly the days of direct mounting to copper are over, I guess it is time to stock up on some U3s. 

please explain, i am confused

If you look at the top of it there aren't any solder pads. This means there is no way to solder it directly to copper (without getting complicated) and still have access to power it up. 

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scaru wrote:

Bort wrote:
scaru wrote:

Sadly the days of direct mounting to copper are over, I guess it is time to stock up on some U3s. 

please explain, i am confused

If you look at the top of it there aren’t any solder pads. This means there is no way to solder it directly to copper (without getting complicated) and still have access to power it up. 

I haven’t had time to play with the XML2 yet, but I have a few dozen of them that showed up Friday from mouser… That said, I wouldn’t be surprised if you could solder to the metal under the silicone at the corners/edges…

I am currently extremely busy with work. Please do not expect a response from me quickly. I will be dropping in as time permits, but the amount of time I can dedicate to responding to topics and PMs is very limited.

sintro
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Has high cri also at the lower colors.

scaru
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PilotPTK wrote:
scaru wrote:

Bort wrote:
scaru wrote:

Sadly the days of direct mounting to copper are over, I guess it is time to stock up on some U3s. 

please explain, i am confused

If you look at the top of it there aren't any solder pads. This means there is no way to solder it directly to copper (without getting complicated) and still have access to power it up. 

I haven't had time to play with the XML2 yet, but I have a few dozen of them that showed up Friday from mouser... That said, I wouldn't be surprised if you could solder to the metal under the silicone at the corners/edges... !{width:60%}http://www.brightlightmodules.com/Images/XML2.JPG!:http://www.brightligh...

Interesting, it seems like the area to solder wires to may even be bigger!

PilotPTK
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scaru wrote:

PilotPTK wrote:
scaru wrote:

Bort wrote:
scaru wrote:

Sadly the days of direct mounting to copper are over, I guess it is time to stock up on some U3s. 

please explain, i am confused

If you look at the top of it there aren’t any solder pads. This means there is no way to solder it directly to copper (without getting complicated) and still have access to power it up. 

I haven’t had time to play with the XML2 yet, but I have a few dozen of them that showed up Friday from mouser… That said, I wouldn’t be surprised if you could solder to the metal under the silicone at the corners/edges… , it seems like the area to solder wires to may even be bigger!

It does look like that may be the case.. It will just depend what material that ‘metal’ is.. If, for example, it is aluminum then it will not be possible to solder to it.. If it’s plated copper, that would be perfect.

I am currently extremely busy with work. Please do not expect a response from me quickly. I will be dropping in as time permits, but the amount of time I can dedicate to responding to topics and PMs is very limited.

nqcken
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man. it may be time to start practicing my soldering skills. :

ken

WastedNihilist
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Great, I’ll save a little money now, waiting for only lights with an upgraded emitter to come out.

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want to see detail

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CheapThrills wrote:

But who could supply a new type of driver for us to fiddle with?
WWEFANS / rey?
Fasttech / Intl-O? Any ideas?

I think it should be done some way or the other…

Not sure, but we do have more than a few very capable members for hardware and software development. Perhaps open design (like www.amb.org stuff) where only pcb would be made and sold but users would populate it themselves with readily available parts from RS/farnell/newark/mouser/radioshack…

Society is like a pot full of nuts and bolts, finest pieces always end up on the bottom...

 

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chiefinspectorfinch wrote:
CheapThrills wrote:
But who could supply a new type of driver for us to fiddle with? WWEFANS / rey? Fasttech / Intl-O? Any ideas? I think it should be done some way or the other...
Not sure, but we do have more than a few very capable members for hardware and software development. Perhaps open design (like www.amb.org stuff) where only pcb would be made and sold but users would populate it themselves with readily available parts from RS/farnell/newark/mouser/radioshack...

 From what I'm seeing, the buck/boost drivers are more parts, more real estate than the 7135 based designs. This may be fine where you have space in the pill for a 2 PCB design, but won't work on many 1 cell 18650's I've been working on as of late. I'm an independent software devleoper with lots of experience in micros, real-time embedded systems (ASM, C, C++, etc.) and could help with the software though if something can be done - my hardware design experience is near nil though.

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Well “standard” 17mm board is quite small and I’m pretty certain that buck/boost driver is not an option but simple buck driver governed by attiny family ic could be feasible. Perhaps even some software code from luxdrv/blfvd could be used.

Society is like a pot full of nuts and bolts, finest pieces always end up on the bottom...

 

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PilotPTK was in the process of designing a 17mm buck driver which looked fantastic and was supposed to have only a 0.5V overhead – hopefully we’ll hear more after the holidays.

Looks like I’ll be getting some stars and XM-L2s to reflow onto them, can’t wait to try these out in a new bike light. T6 5000K 3C (hopefully) with the same output but better CRI as my current U2 CW equipped light.

Tom E
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I'm still waitin on my Mouser order of 3, shipped Monday, maybe in today. Planning on reflowing onto existing star boards in a couple of my better lights.

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Awesome!!! Looking forward to all your results fellas!

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Is there a "category" for XML2 on mouser.com? I find their site very unclear..

Tom E
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This is the item page I ordered: mouser XMLBWT-02-0000-000LT60E3. Hope this helps. Down to 142 in stock.

 

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Now if we only knew the exact tint.. Big Smile

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He, he, down to 140…

Flomotion

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How long until a p60 dropin? Glasses

Tom E
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NightCrawl wrote:

Now if we only knew the exact tint.. Big Smile

I am guessing 3C or close to it.

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Does the XML2 emitter fit on regular XML MPCB’s? I wonder when will Intl Outdoor be stocking these?

LAB
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They are available now from This guy
in p60 drop ins.

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LAB wrote:
They are available now from This guy in p60 drop ins.

Thank you sir!

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NightCrawl wrote:

Now if we only knew the exact tint.. Big Smile

We do… sort of.

The last three numbers in the product code are the chromaticity, and it’s an “E3 KIT”. Which means they will be one of four 5000k region.

Either 3A, 3B, 3C, or 3D. — Luck of the draw which one.

Any would be okay with me.

The XM-L2 document refers to the XM-L document for chromaticity, and here’s where I found the information on page 10:

http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED%20Components%20and%20Modules/XLamp/Data%20and%20Binning/XLampXMBL.pdf

—— EDIT ——

It’s also an XM-L2 T6 bin, which should be pretty much identical in brightness to an XM-L U3 bin. (But this one is a NW!)

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Ohhhhh!!! I just found two more XM-L2 options they have IN STOCK!!!

XM-L2 T5 (same approximate brightness as an XM-L U2)
Chromaticity kit 51… which unfortunately means it could be any of these cool-neutral white possibilities: 0A, 0B, 0C, 0D, 0R, 0S, 0T, 0U, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1D, 1R, 1S, 1T, 1U, 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D, 2R, 2S, 2T, 2U, 3A, 3B, 3R, 3S

Spin the wheel of binfortune!

XM-L2 T2 (same approximate brightness as an XM-L T4)
Chromaticity kit E8… which means it could be any of these warm white possibilities: 8A1, 8A2, 8A3, 8A4, 8B1, 8B2, 8B3, 8B4, 8C1, 8C2, 8C3, 8C4, 8D1, 8D2, 8D3, 8D4

They have a whole bunch of others listed as on order, so we’ll have to watch and see as they show up…

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