yeah, my daughter was just above 103 the other night, and her brother was up over 102 a couple days before that… she felt like she was on fire
those are def some extreme tests… im wondering if there is any light that would stand up to those without the slightest fail… surefire dominator test anyone???
Well, I received the lights and I have finished testing on them. They have both been put through a lot of torture and one is dead. Which one? You'll find out when I post pictures and everything else (most likely tomorrow morning)
and i’m guessing my guess was wrong. not the first time of course.
i have the utmost confidence in Old-Lumens, but i’m pretty sure, as has been said before, that these are both going to be junk very soon. now i’m going to go sob…
Well, I received the lights and I have finished testing on them. They have both been put through a lot of torture and one is dead. Which one? You'll find out when I post pictures and everything else (most likely tomorrow morning)
both survive freezing. uf leakes. neither live through boil. drop test? no problem, oil? no worries, tractor trailer? OL is making a nice mobile out of 2 – dimensional hosts.
—
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
During the Intermission I am going to contemplate just how a $50 (or $45, or $35) Chinese light can be made so poorly. I just Googled that light and did not know how much it cost. What a joke. $50 and the plating comes off the reflector, the O rings do nothing? That's a sub $10 light, not a $50 light. My belief in Ultrafire being one of the worst producers of lights has again been reaffirmed.
—
My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
During the Intermission I am going to contemplate just how a $50 (or $45, or $35) Chinese light can be made so poorly. I just Googled that light and did not know how much it cost. What a joke. $50 and the plating comes off the reflector, the O rings do nothing? That’s a sub $10 light, not a $50 light. My belief in Ultrafire being one of the worst producers of lights has again been reaffirmed.
O-L, in the UF-T50’s defense please keep in mind that last picture was taken after all of the following: a night in a snow bank and an hour underwater in the basement sump and two heavy cycles in the washing machine and an extra heavy cycle in the dryer and an hour in the oven at 200F and frozen solid in a block of ice overnight and defrosted and soaked in a pot for an hour and then boiled. Granted, it started leaking with the first wash and got progressively worse but maybe it was leaking at the switch? These two lights are my only frame of reference for this kind of abuse but I’m surprised either one made it as far as they did. Maybe other budget light brands would have done better? Suggestions anyone?
I agree that UF-t50 may be a little overpriced, but I am still impressed it held up through more-than-demanding tests that the typical person wouldn’t put their lights through (on purpose) very often.
Drop and drag and crush tests are a true test of durability as well, and I can’t wait to see what Scaru discovered!!
Ok, now that I have a computer to post from here the results are.
Here they are as I received them.
Since some people are curious about the reflector of the UF-T50 here it is.
First, I drop tested them. Over and over and over. I started with a 15 foot (approximate) drop onto grass.
Here the T50 is after a 15 foot drop, it was on when I dropped but when it hit the ground it turned off. It did the same thing with every drop.
The SC600 however stayed on when dropped. (It is peaking out from underneat a leaf here)
So far no damage to the lights, anodizing still intact. So why not drop them from 5 feet onto a stone patio?
Damn, they are both intact. 10 feet it is.
The SC600 is still on after a 10 foot drop onto stone, but the UF-T50 is off (as usual). Both are still functional, but the glass lens on the SC600 cracked. It is no longer waterproof, but other than that fully functional.
So this means both lights are functional, but the UF-T50 is ahead so far. Read on to find out how they do with an extended runtime on high.
I hooked both of them up to a power supply and ran them for slightly less than 3 hour on high non-stop. This is the test set up. They were both supplied with 4 volts, CV.
The SC600 seems to have some method of dimming in order to manage the heat. Here two pictures are: the first is on full brightness, the second is after two hours.
The UF-T50 however ran at full brightness the whole time.
The SC600 peaked at 142 degrees Fahrenheit (43 Celsius) and the UF-T50 peaked at 189 degrees Fahrenheit (87.22). As I was watching the temperature rise I thought that surely they would both survive since they already survived at 200 degrees in the oven. Then the UF-T50 started to flicker, I decided to leave it running. After 1 minute of flickering it went in to a moonlight mode.
(For some reason the reflector looks textured in this photo) When I disconnected it from the power supply it turned off (since there was no power). I let it cool for around 2 hours and then put a battery in it to test it, it didn't turn on...
So to summarize, the UF-T50 is dead and the SC600 has a broken lens and a smashed lanyard ring. (Pictured below)
yeah, my daughter was just above 103 the other night, and her brother was up over 102 a couple days before that… she felt like she was on fire
those are def some extreme tests… im wondering if there is any light that would stand up to those without the slightest fail… surefire dominator test anyone???
-the- Throw calculator - Pulsars list
Dang, I was pulling for the underdog but it ain’t over quite yet. The heavy duty tests are still coming.
I’m surprised both lights still work. Thanks The Shadow.
That’s a great pic!
Thank you for the great pics. Go on Zebra – stay well and beat the UF
Light up the darkness.
Awesome tests I feel like I’ve won just watching this post.
P60dropins.com (just a redirect for now)
You have done well Shadow. The smile is on my dial after a crappy day at work. Keep it up guys, very entertaining.
PS. I reckon we should be paying to watch this.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Awesome stuff going in in this thread!
Me like! ^^
BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342
Haha. It’s like a Rocky movie.
TheShadow, the insidious play-by-play commentary was a riot. ‘The UF-T50 is soaked? No worries, an hour in the oven should dry it out just fine.’
Well, I received the lights and I have finished testing on them. They have both been put through a lot of torture and one is dead. Which one? You'll find out when I post pictures and everything else (most likely tomorrow morning)
My LED comparison thread with links.
Tint, Binning, and CRI Explanation (For the XM-L)
http://budgetlightforum.com/node
dang scaru.. i didnt think they both would survive you lol
-the- Throw calculator - Pulsars list
and i’m guessing my guess was wrong. not the first time of course.
i have the utmost confidence in Old-Lumens, but i’m pretty sure, as has been said before, that these are both going to be junk very soon. now i’m going to go sob…
yes it will be sad to see the sc600 on its deathbed
-the- Throw calculator - Pulsars list
C'Mon UF50, You can make it .... (maybe)
And for the DOCTOR ......
Alright.
Where do we get that beer can holder?
Not what we have but what we enjoy, constitutes our abundance.
http://tinyurl.com/bpujfd2
Worst comes to worst, I can at least give them a decent burial, LOL.
My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel
The BLF Modding Links Thread
Thanks, I put it on my Amazon list.
Not what we have but what we enjoy, constitutes our abundance.
both survive freezing. uf leakes. neither live through boil. drop test? no problem, oil? no worries, tractor trailer? OL is making a nice mobile out of 2 – dimensional hosts.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
Yesss. I just ordered the two pack!
A few highlight shots for your entertainment during this intermission:
After a night in the snowbank:
Underwater in the basement sump:
Frozen solid:
UF-T50 after defrosting:
UF-T50 waterlogged and with reflector damage after being boiled but still alive:
During the Intermission I am going to contemplate just how a $50 (or $45, or $35) Chinese light can be made so poorly. I just Googled that light and did not know how much it cost. What a joke. $50 and the plating comes off the reflector, the O rings do nothing? That's a sub $10 light, not a $50 light. My belief in Ultrafire being one of the worst producers of lights has again been reaffirmed.
My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel
The BLF Modding Links Thread
O-L, in the UF-T50’s defense please keep in mind that last picture was taken after all of the following: a night in a snow bank and an hour underwater in the basement sump and two heavy cycles in the washing machine and an extra heavy cycle in the dryer and an hour in the oven at 200F and frozen solid in a block of ice overnight and defrosted and soaked in a pot for an hour and then boiled. Granted, it started leaking with the first wash and got progressively worse but maybe it was leaking at the switch? These two lights are my only frame of reference for this kind of abuse but I’m surprised either one made it as far as they did. Maybe other budget light brands would have done better? Suggestions anyone?
I agree that UF-t50 may be a little overpriced, but I am still impressed it held up through more-than-demanding tests that the typical person wouldn’t put their lights through (on purpose) very often.
Drop and drag and crush tests are a true test of durability as well, and I can’t wait to see what Scaru discovered!!
UF T50
Fiat Lux
Hurry up scaru! I don’t like being in the dark! (pun intended)
Candlepower (abbreviated as CP) is a now-obsolete unit which was used to express levels of light intensity.
Candlepowerforums (abbreviated as CPF) a website, also obsolete, drive
I got my hands on a chromebook to post from, so all the pictures are being uploaded to photobucket now.
My LED comparison thread with links.
Tint, Binning, and CRI Explanation (For the XM-L)
http://budgetlightforum.com/node
My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel
The BLF Modding Links Thread
Ok, now that I have a computer to post from here the results are.
Here they are as I received them.
Since some people are curious about the reflector of the UF-T50 here it is.
First, I drop tested them. Over and over and over. I started with a 15 foot (approximate) drop onto grass.
Here the T50 is after a 15 foot drop, it was on when I dropped but when it hit the ground it turned off. It did the same thing with every drop.
The SC600 however stayed on when dropped. (It is peaking out from underneat a leaf here)
So far no damage to the lights, anodizing still intact. So why not drop them from 5 feet onto a stone patio?
Damn, they are both intact. 10 feet it is.
The SC600 is still on after a 10 foot drop onto stone, but the UF-T50 is off (as usual). Both are still functional, but the glass lens on the SC600 cracked. It is no longer waterproof, but other than that fully functional.
So this means both lights are functional, but the UF-T50 is ahead so far. Read on to find out how they do with an extended runtime on high.
I hooked both of them up to a power supply and ran them for slightly less than 3 hour on high non-stop. This is the test set up. They were both supplied with 4 volts, CV.
The SC600 seems to have some method of dimming in order to manage the heat. Here two pictures are: the first is on full brightness, the second is after two hours.
The UF-T50 however ran at full brightness the whole time.
The SC600 peaked at 142 degrees Fahrenheit (43 Celsius) and the UF-T50 peaked at 189 degrees Fahrenheit (87.22). As I was watching the temperature rise I thought that surely they would both survive since they already survived at 200 degrees in the oven. Then the UF-T50 started to flicker, I decided to leave it running. After 1 minute of flickering it went in to a moonlight mode.
(For some reason the reflector looks textured in this photo) When I disconnected it from the power supply it turned off (since there was no power). I let it cool for around 2 hours and then put a battery in it to test it, it didn't turn on...
So to summarize, the UF-T50 is dead and the SC600 has a broken lens and a smashed lanyard ring. (Pictured below)
My LED comparison thread with links.
Tint, Binning, and CRI Explanation (For the XM-L)
http://budgetlightforum.com/node
These are some crazy torturing! I don’t think I’ve come anywhere close to this madness in using my lights.
Madness? THIS IS BUDGETLIGHTFORUM!
TODO List:
Acquire more parts.
Devise cheap way to make TIRs.
Rub some bacon on it.
Finish something that I
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