Torx screwdrivers for SRM knives? Yeah, right!

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raccoon city
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Luckily I still have the placement of the teflon/bronze washers in the original order.  In fact I think I have all the pieces in the proper order.  The problem I'm having is pressing the knife pieces together and attaching the screws.  If I could find a reassembly video online, that would probably do the trick.  But I'm not worried about it any more.  I'll give it another shot tomorrow.

jekostas
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raccoon city wrote:

Luckily I still have the placement of the teflon/bronze washers in the original order.  In fact I think I have all the pieces in the proper order.  The problem I'm having is pressing the knife pieces together and attaching the screws.  If I could find a reassembly video online, that would probably do the trick.  But I'm not worried about it any more.  I'll give it another shot tomorrow.

I think I kinda know what you're doing...  when you re-assemble a knife that has a frame or liner lock, you need to reassemble the knife with the blade in the fully opened position, otherwise the lock will push the blade out of position and make it nearly impossible to put back together as the alignment of the scales will be off.

I've assembled/disassembled about a zillion different knives in my lifetime, so try this sequence.  You should wipe down everything with some non-linting cloth before you reassemble and add some lubricant (lithium grease if you have it, mineral oil also works very well and is food safe).  A very light coating is all you need.

1.  First take the non-lockbar scale (the side with the engraving) and insert the pivot pin.  There should be a slight flat to the pin to keep it from rotating.

2.  Press the stop pin in to place (the unthreaded pin that the blade pushes against when opened).  Press in to place any other unthreaded pins.  Press the back spacer in to place on any pressed-in pins.

3.  Put the washer on the pivot, and then blade in the fully open position, and then the second washer.

4.  Add back the second scale, taking care to make sure that the lock bar stays on the left side of the blade (blade forward and open, looking down).  Line it up using any pressed stop pins and the pivot.  Add the male pivot screw and very lightly screw it down, but don't tighten it fully.

5.  Line up any pressed-in pins and use a rubber mallet or something similar to set them in the scale.

6.  Install the frame screws, back to front.  If the back spacer isn't lined up perfectly, use a small screwdriver to push it in to place as you insert the screws.  Tighten them down fully.

7.  Remove the male pivot screw, and add a threadlocker.  Re-install the male pivot screw and adjust the tension until you have it where you want.  You have 5-6 minutes of working before the threadlocker sets.  It's not completely necessary to use thread locker, but it's helpful for the pivot screw.  It's not necessary for the frame screws.

Budgeteer
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charlestt wrote:

Ah so that's an hex key !! we call them allen keys over here Smile

Add inbus to the names list from me. Smile

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

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