"New" nicely priced p60 hosts at MF

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Budgeteer
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"New" nicely priced p60 hosts at MF
kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

Edited by: Budgeteer on 04/06/2011 - 13:00
jb1
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I agree - that's a pretty inexpensive host.

rzezniq
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I can't recommend them. Clicky dies easly. Other than that they are Ok. Still it's better to get SKY RAY host.

brjones
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rzezniq, my 504B clicky died too! I thought it was just mine, from the other feedback I got here. To be fair though, my Solarforce switch died too! These failures were both after I started using high-current XM-L drop-ins.

That said, it's good to see Manafont selling these (the original/'real'?) 504B as hosts only.

This (the 504B) may be the closest thing to an 18650-compatible Surefire 6P copy, -outside- of the Solarforce line (which is overall better, but more expensive). Possible exception to the no-name "L2" models on Lightake, which Old4570 more specifically calls 'Solarforce fakes'--I don't have any of those. There are subtle differences between 504B, L2, and even L2 vs L2p.

Although disappointed with the switch, I can say my Solarforce S7 twisty/momentary modded to the Oveready Zero Resistance modification, works so far best on my W-504B. Surprisingly, it doesn't work as well on my (real) Solarforce L2 (actually L2m with the extension) or L2p. On those, my OEM Surefire Z41 twisty works best on the L2p, and for my L2m-with-extension (or the L2m by itself), not much joy for twisties. Conversely my Z41 tailcap doesn't work so well on the 504b. Hmph. I might try to sand the back of the tube on a flat surface like glass.

My 504b with the S7 + Zero Resistance mod now 'rules the roost'. I can't guarantee others' results, but those are mine. It permits so much current (so little resistance), that it can actually be too much of a good thing. The protection circuit kicks in on one of my 18650 models (a fresh high-capacity Soshine) on high in the Manafont genuine Ultrafire XM-L 3-mode drop-in on high. The light also heats up significantly faster with that tailcap, and I've done and will continue testing that this really does amount to a real increase in brightness (seems to be the case so far). I know, XM-L is probably just wasting most of that energy through heat at those current. However, it IS hella bright, the brightest I've gotten so far out of any XM-L (it's quite impressive), the question is whether it's worth the downsides. Working on that. My KaiDomain XM-L drop-in pulls a bit less on high, so that may go in (has a great tint, it's my earliest XM-L), but I hate those blinky modes (especially when testing poorly-functioning switches, when you get stuck on strobe!).

Another minor point about the 504b. It comes with a smooth bezel ring. The Solarforce L2 comes with a sharp aggressive one, although a smooth Solarforce one which looks like the 504b's is available as an extra ($3 at Lighthound + shipping, or about $5.50 I think shipped from Ebay). Well, get this. My 504B smooth bezel ring screws into my L2 just fine, but my Solarforce smooth bezel ring (purchased from Lighthound) does NOT want to screw into my 504b (though they look the same). Just my experience. So in a way, the 504b ring is more versatile, and the whole flashlight host isn't all that much more money than you'd spend on just a ring, depending on where you'd get it. Just something to consider.

I'd like to know how compatible the Skyray host is with Solarforce-type accessories (tailcaps mostly, but even other 6P-style heads)? Do those little cigar-hold rings come off, too?

For someone who has neither, Skyray vs UF WF-504B could come down to what kind of accessories one wants to use. Many weapon-light mounts and pressure-pad tailcaps for instance, are designed around Surefire, and the Surefire style lights have a straight battery tube.

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Vectrex
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I still prefer the LT offer, because you get an extension for ~2 bucks extra.

@brjones: Some of the links in this post might be interesting for you.

jamesearljonesi...
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Vectrex wrote:

I still prefer the LT offer, because you get an extension for ~2 bucks extra.

@brjones: Some of the links in this post might be interesting for you.

just wanna add 7% off using CLUBCOUPON @ LT. I think ill purchase the L2w extension and an L2M.

03/04/16 

 

8 lives left

brjones
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Man, you are the deals king on BLF! I may use that. (Still also waiting to use the Ebay Groupon coupon my S.O. and I got thanks to you.)

 

Thanks also to Vetrex for that link, which I hadn't read. I actually agree with Foy in that link that the 504B (in my also-very unscientific observations) seems to wick heat away faster than my L2P, but more observation is needed (need to swap drop-ins). The feel in quality of the 504b is just run-of-the mill; the Solarforce's 'feel' higher quality but it doesn't stop the 504b from being very useful.

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Foy
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I do like the silver but I just cannot get excited about this host.  A "real" L2 is only about $3 more and in my experience, is far superior.  I guess I could understand if it were like, half as much but for just a little more money you get a lot more flashlight.

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mfm
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rzezniq wrote:

I can't recommend them. Clicky dies easly. Other than that they are Ok. Still it's better to get SKY RAY host.

The switch on the Skyray is bad too, if you press it slowly there's a lot of flickering on mine (slightly better now after a lot of work). I didn't find any good replacement switch either, someone gave a recommendation on replacement switch on DX but that didn't work (I tried to buy the original Seraph too but didn't have much luck with that either).

This is unrelated to the problem of people using too high currents, yes the switch will most likely break if you use the Ultrafire XM-L plugin with something else than an L2P.

Vectrex
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I think none of the traditional P60 hosts are really suited for XMLs, not heat-wise and not switch-wise. There also have been reports of original Solarforce switches dying under 3+ amps load.

Budgeteer
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I have yet to kill a switch. However my XM-L's that draws 3A+ had around 20h runtime at high.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

jamesearljonesi...
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brjones wrote:

Man, you are the deals king on BLF! I may use that. (Still also waiting to use the Ebay Groupon coupon my S.O. and I got thanks to you.)

I used my groupon @ ITC_SHOP to buy a grey l2 body and a pouch for $16.22 so after the groupon which was $7 i paid an extra $2.22 for a total of $9.22 not bad for a SFL2 and a pouch.

03/04/16 

 

8 lives left

mfm
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Vectrex wrote:
There also have been reports of original Solarforce switches dying under 3+ amps load.

Only the switch on the L2 and not on the L2P, or?

jamesearljonesi...
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I had a switch fail on me on another flashlight( MTE M2) after a drop. after opening the tail cap the spring just fell out and upon looking at the circuit board noticed that the contacts were golden and no trace of solder or flux. i soldered it back on and basically  added solder to all the gold contact points of the switch. I wonder if these failing switches are failing due to bad solder joints or just low quality materials.

03/04/16 

 

8 lives left

Mr Frugal
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Does anyone sell these non-solarforce flat bezel rings?  Just trying to save a few bucks over a solarforce one.

Budgeteer
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I've searched for them looking for a 3usd 10 pack deal or something but found not even a single one. Not worth over 5usd for a 10 pack to me.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

fishinfool
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Mr Frugal wrote:

Does anyone sell these non-solarforce flat bezel rings?  Just trying to save a few bucks over a solarforce one.

I bought a couple of these but for $2.50 each is a bit spendy.

http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FA&s=15&id=51

 

Don wrote:

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srfreddy
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I just spent ten bucks "upgrading" an L2M with the B6 flat bezel and the L2P switch....for a twelve buck light....its gonna be for my first LED P60, with the Manafont 3mode+ some 5 mil copper sheeting to shim it. 

Mr Frugal
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srfreddy wrote:

I just spent ten bucks "upgrading" an L2M with the B6 flat bezel and the L2P switch....for a twelve buck light....its gonna be for my first LED P60, with the Manafont 3mode+ some 5 mil copper sheeting to shim it. 

Hey, where did you get the copper sheeting?

srfreddy
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Mr Frugal
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Thanks srfreddy! 

Nil Einne
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Vectrex wrote:

I still prefer the LT offer, because you get an extension for ~2 bucks extra.

@brjones: Some of the links in this post might be interesting for you.

I have one of those from a while back, bought it with a XP-G. No major complain so far. Not as good as genuine SolarForce of course but was cheaper particularly at the time even with both doing discounts (doesn't help ITCshop force you to use registered shipping most of the time outside of the US). 

Main trouble is trying to find other dropins which can handle 2 cells. Does tend to limit your choices. Worse perhaps if you want modes. You can perhaps turn it into 3xAA if you want. 

P.S. Ironically using 2 cells should make things easier on the switch because you're pushing lower current thru it. 

old4570
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The L2 clicky is ok , until you have a short , then you kill the switch internally [ read melt ]  , this is good as its far better to kill a clicky then the battery ...

I was going to contact Solarforce about making the clicky available as a spare part [ Ive shorted a few ] , and finding a good replacement , well I havent really found one . 

But one of the online retailers , should really offer them as spares ...  

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