BEAM SHOTS ARE UP- Oh Nooooo Not the King, don't ruin the King..... Well it's the FF Clone King, so why not mod it?

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Old-Lumens
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BEAM SHOTS ARE UP- Oh Nooooo Not the King, don't ruin the King..... Well it's the FF Clone King, so why not mod it?

Well here's a tune by the Real King

 

 So I went ahead and bought one of these FandyFire clone kings about a week before the Black Kings dropped in price. Damn, I'm singin the Blues over that!

ffk1a

 

ffk1b

 

ffk1c

For the price, I guess it's ok, but the threads were bone dry. The reflector looks like it never got final finish before plating and one of the LEDs has a scuff mark on it, so I'm not too happy.

Time to rip it apart.

ffk1d

Well, that made me feel better....  I will be keeping the outer body, head and tail cap. LOL.

I am going to turn this into a O-L NiMHKing. EDIT: Four 4/3AF NiMH batteries in series, with Three NANJG 3040mA drivers in Master/Slave configuration. I may put in Three XM-L2 leds in it. I am not sure yet. I may keep the stock reflector, but it's so ugly (how ugly is it?), It's so ugly I had to slap it when it looked at me. Ok, so I'm not a comedian.    I will either stipple the stock reflector or put in Three of something - small reflectors or TIR optics. I am not sure yet.

I have a lot of work to do...

ffk1e

Radio Shack has what you need. I had some of these round boards from another mod and guess what. This one will just about fit perfect and will replace the driver board that was in the light.

 

ffk1f

Here's where I start. I have to make the board on the right into a contact plate for series use. I have to rework the original bottom plate for series use. I have the three drivers and the Master is a DrJones reprogrammed one. That means it's going to have a Great UI.!

Did I say I have a lot of work to do?

 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have managed to do a little work today.

ff2a

I have decided to go with the TIR optics. I already had a locator plate, from a failed project.

 

ff2b

I decided to use three of the heat sinks I had for AA Mags. I used AA and some clamping force to adhere these to the bottom of the LED plate.

 

ff2c

I marked the bottom side of the original spring contact plate and in the next shot I have cut the contact traces where needed and bridged the contacts, so that it works for series use.

ff2d

 

 

 

 

ff2e

I also have soldered all the contacts for the replacement plate that goes where the driver was. It's all set to go for series use. The bridge on this plate is shown on the back side, as well as the positive and negative wires.

ff2f

 

Next is to work on the driver configuration. I have not ordered LEDs yet, so this mod will come to a standstill soon, until I get the LEDs.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Drivers

ffk3a

The driver on the lower left is the Master and the other two are slaves. I soldered the outer rings of the three together, so they would have common ground. Then I removed the program chip from the two slaves. I used some of my solid wire to run wires from the master to the slaves. This makes the master control all 24 of the 7135 chips. It's much like soldering extra 7135 chips onto one board. The difference is that now there are 3 sets of 8x7135 chips and each set of 8 will power one LED. This should give 3040mA to each LED if the batteries are able to put out over 9 amps.

I am not going to wire any more till I have the LEDs here. I want to solder wires to the LEDs and position them and then I will solder the leads to the drivers.

 

 

ffk3b

After flexing each connection, to make sure it was good, I used some Arctic Alumina adhesive, to help protect against my own fumble fingers, when finishing the wiring.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

That's it till I get LEDs in. NOT

I decided that the difference between XM-L and L2 is not worth the money to buy more leds, when I already have leds. Besides, I need to just use what I got, to get rid of February's debits...   Besides, I am not a patient person.   So, I used three of the T6 3C leds I already had.

ffk4a

I have the wires from the switch attached as well as the three negative wires from the drivers, to the leds. Once I flexed them all, to make sure the joints were good, I used AA to surround them and help protect them when I try to stuff all this into the head.    I still have to wire up the three Positive wires from the leds and one positive to the master driver, to the battery positive. Then the ground from the home made contact plate will be soldered to the drivers and everything will be put in place.   I'm getting close and I already tested this thing this morning. It works as advertised. My 3xAA Eneloops weren't particularly happy to be hooked up to 9 amps, but they only had to endure it long enough to check out the UI and verify it worked right.

If everything goes well, I should be done by Wednesday. I have the drivers in the head and I used Fujik to hold them in place. That is drying right now. I don't like Fujik, since it takes forever to set up, but I can't use AA for big jobs, due the the extreme cost of the stuff, so I just have to use Fujik and wait 24 hours.

 

ffk4b

Here's the business end.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Not much left to see now. I reach a point where I just want to see it finished and I forget to take any photos. Here's a couple of the last photos.

fghjf

The top contact plate is glued in place

 

fn,hjk

The bottom contact plate and tail cap are in place.

 

k,j

The inside of the body is marked for + or - terminals, for battery installation.

 

xgfg

The red line is a marking point to show where the body and head meet, when the body is tightened and the light is working.

qwerg

The second photo shows how far the body has to be loosened, in order to break the circuit. It does not take much and it locks out the light.

 

That's all folks!

 

 

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Edited by: Old-Lumens on 03/20/2013 - 13:53
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cft6

vfe3

bngy

nurd

 

Beam Shots

ffkm1

 This is Medium

 

 

ffkh1

This is OMG High

 

All the rest of the shots are on OMG High

ffkh2

ffkh3

ffkh4

The haze is not haze, it's Pollen! The past two nights, when you walk outside, the air is filled with it. You can see it like a fine driving rain. It shows up in the light as haze.

ffkh5

The last photo shows the limit of the TIR optics. You can see the far end of the pond, but not like you would with reflectors. It is more of a wall of light.

 I LOVE this Light!

This is with four NiMH batteries. Don't ever let them fool you, NiMHs can put out some serious amps. These 4/3 A batteries got hot. In the total of a minute and a half that I had the light on, the batteries were about 95 F and the head/body was hotter than that. It has to be pumping the amps with it getting that hot, that fast.

 

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cant wait to see how this one turns out… go go go! lol
good luck justin, really cant wait

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If you want to sell the stock driver, I’ll take it as a spare for mine.

Richie

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This will be a good one, cant wait for your final product!

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That looks to be quite an ambitious project, but one well within the O-L scope !

The XM-L2 sounds like a great choice, as the higher Vf will likely better suit the over 5V when those NiMh are fully charged.  You should be able to maintain regulation until the cells are depleted. 

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Richie086 wrote:
If you want to sell the stock driver, I'll take it as a spare for mine.

Speaking of the stock driver. Is this one the "good one" or the "bad one"?

dr1a

 

 

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Old-Lumens wrote:

Richie086 wrote:
If you want to sell the stock driver, I’ll take it as a spare for mine.

Speaking of the stock driver. Is this one the “good one” or the “bad one”?

 

I just assumed it’s okay because it has 3 torriods or whatever they are called. It would be better than nothing if my SR King driver craps out.

Richie

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This is interesting. Did you get the 4/3A cells at the Shack too?

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Richie086 wrote:
Old-Lumens wrote:

Richie086 wrote:
If you want to sell the stock driver, I’ll take it as a spare for mine.

Speaking of the stock driver. Is this one the “good one” or the “bad one”?

 

I just assumed it’s okay because it has 3 torriods or whatever they are called. It would be better than nothing if my SR King driver craps out.


if i remember correctly, and i dont have or want a king so i may be wrong… the three toroid driver is the one you want
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very nice! subscribed – interested to see where this goes!

as soon as i regain my mojo after my last several mod failures i am going to add some resistors to my srk

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
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Three P60 reflectors will fit in a Mag D cell head with a little trimming (ok, a lot of trimming, lol), and the King is the same 52mm head AND is deeper than the Mag, so they only need trimming on the sides where they intersect and don't need to be shortened at all (other than chopping off the threads at the bottom)...

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jmpaul320 wrote:
very nice! subscribed – interested to see where this goes!

as soon as i regain my mojo after my last several mod failures i am going to add some resistors to my srk

Does anyone in the states offer this service? Is it a huge increase in output?

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I'm watching with interest. Are you going to detail the driver mod again for the people as unfortunate as myself who did not understand it the first time you did this and whats the actual size of the batteries? I love the comedian OL. Quote, ''It's so ugly I had to slap it when it looked at me'' unquote. Not quiet sure what your referring to here but for some reason I'm still laughing. Thinking about it should I be worried? Cheers.

 

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MRsDNF wrote:
Not quiet sure what your referring to here

I think it is seen by the outer edge of each individual led reflector in the 3rd pic after the video.

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relic38 wrote:
This is interesting. Did you get the 4/3A cells at the Shack too?
All-battery (Tenergy). The only manufacturers I know of. Sanyo used to, but I think they don't now.

EDIT:  4/3AF Nimh Sorry about that.  I always leave the F out.Wink

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MRsDNF wrote:

I'm watching with interest. Are you going to detail the driver mod again for the people as unfortunate as myself who did not understand it the first time you did this and whats the actual size of the batteries? I love the comedian OL. Quote, ''It's so ugly I had to slap it when it looked at me'' unquote. Not quiet sure what your referring to here but for some reason I'm still laughing. Thinking about it should I be worried? Cheers.

I guess I will detail the driver mod again. Possibly I can try translating it into Aussie when it's done.Wink

At least this time there is more room (bigger ID of the head), for putting the three drivers in the head. That should make it easier to install.

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comfychair wrote:

Three P60 reflectors will fit in a Mag D cell head with a little trimming (ok, a lot of trimming, lol), and the King is the same 52mm head AND is deeper than the Mag, so they only need trimming on the sides where they intersect and don't need to be shortened at all (other than chopping off the threads at the bottom)...

That's the first thing that cam to mind. Also 3 TIR optics, but I just don't know yet. Time will tell.

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Hey O-L, did you have any trouble getting the tailcap off? Any glue, loctite etc. on the threads?

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comfychair wrote:

Hey O-L, did you have any trouble getting the tailcap off? Any glue, loctite etc. on the threads?

None at all. Came right off. Nothing on the threads.

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Old-Lumens wrote:

comfychair wrote:

Three P60 reflectors will fit in a Mag D cell head with a little trimming (ok, a lot of trimming, lol), and the King is the same 52mm head AND is deeper than the Mag, so they only need trimming on the sides where they intersect and don't need to be shortened at all (other than chopping off the threads at the bottom)...

That's the first thing that cam to mind. Also 3 TIR optics, but I just don't know yet. Time will tell.

Being that you're swapping emitters you get a lot more flexibility to set the spacing the way you want, much easier than dealing with 3 on a single PCB. Cutting the p60 reflectors it might be less fiddly to spread them out so that the only cut you have to make is at the outside edge so each reflector only needs one cut. The one I'm working on is with a 3-up board, and the reflectors are gonna have to be cut to match the cut on their two neighbors... Yell

Old-Lumens wrote:

comfychair wrote:

Hey O-L, did you have any trouble getting the tailcap off? Any glue, loctite etc. on the threads?

None at all. Came right off. Nothing on the threads.

Well crap... mine has thwarted everything I've thrown at it. Strap wrench, heat, you name it. Another user mentioned theirs had red loctite, there must be two different batches of these things.

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Crickey fosters. You call that a knife, this is a knife…

Sorry, couldn’t help the aussy S)

Don’t hate me dnf Big Smile

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Pulsar wrote:
Crickey fosters. You call that a knife, this is a knife... Sorry, couldn't help the aussy S) Don't hate me dnf :D

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This seems like a complicated project !!! .good luck old Lumens Undecided

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Thanks. I think you know that I have an idea floating around in my head and it may involve this driver if I can nut it out. Thanks for the offer of translating it but its just me. I understand the principle but making that principle work, well, we'll leave it there. Cheers.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

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MRsDNF wrote:

Thanks. I think you know that I have an idea floating around in my head and it may involve this driver if I can nut it out. Thanks for the offer of translating it but its just me. I understand the principle but making that principle work, well, we'll leave it there. Cheers.

I have floating things in my head too. The doctors say surgery won't fix them. Tongue Out   Sometimes I have to tilt my head to the left and other times I have to tilt it to the right, just to get the ideas to float close to where I can grab them. My wife says it looks mighty odd, but hey, it works!

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MRsDNF wrote:

and whats the actual size of the batteries?

The size is 18.2mm by 65.2mm It's basically a 1.2v version of an 18650. They are button top too.

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I've been doing some measuring and overall, I would go with either the stock reflector plate (stippled because it's in such bad shape) or TIR optics. I still have a locator already made for three TIR optics, from a failed Mag mod. It sits in the head perfectly. The only catch was that the TIR optics were 14mm deep and the original reflector is 19mm deep. Well, I flipped over the bottom plate that holds the leds and now it leaves 14mm space instead of 19mm space. How much more perfect can I ask for. I can use either 15 degree TIR or 30 degree TIR. I can test them both and I could even supply both sets with the light. CoolCool

The other option would be to fab three Mini-Mag LED reflectors to fit. It could be done and I imagine the light would throw like hell with those. At least I think it would. It's another option, but I am favoring the TIR option. I like the way they fit right in and the ability to change the degree of the optic.

I might test one of the Mag LED reflectors, to see what it would do with an XM-L.

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Old-Lumens wrote:
I might test one of the Mag LED reflectors, to see what it would do with an XM-L.

I have done a few of that combo. The overall beam pattern is smaller than a typical XM-L/P60, but it's ALL hotspot. Very smooth.

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Richie086 wrote:
Old-Lumens wrote:

Richie086 wrote:
If you want to sell the stock driver, I’ll take it as a spare for mine.

Speaking of the stock driver. Is this one the “good one” or the “bad one”?

 

I just assumed it’s okay because it has 3 torriods or whatever they are called. It would be better than nothing if my SR King driver craps out.

AFAICT, I dont think there are any “bad” 3 terroid driver versions for the SRK. They typically suck 6.5A from 4 good 18650’s and deliver 2A to each emitter. Resistor mods are reported to provide as much as 4A to each emitter.

Check here for more info.

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There are NIMH batteries that are the same size as 18650?

I’ve wanted to play with some lights that use those batteries, but am trying to stay away from rechargeable lithium (and the hazards that come with them).
Now I’m more interested in 18650 lights.

Old Lumens… you said you couldn’t find Sanyos’ in that size anymore; look here:
http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/product/1053/Sanyo-43A-4000mah-Nimh.aspx
I’ve purchased from them in the past, they’re a reputable dealer.

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