Uniquefire UF-T20 mod: 3.05A xpg2-3C dedomed on Sinkpad

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djozz
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jps wrote:
Thanks Djozz, great feedback. I don't expect thermal issues but noticed this compared to the default Led&driver of this flashlight. It may also proves that the thermal contributes in good heat dissipation Smile What can I do about the focussing issue and getting a tighter spot?

The lens needs to be a bit further away from rge led when zoomed in, perhaps an extra spacer of some kind where the o-ring under the lens is? You can start with loosening the lens a bit, or with a piece of cardboard to test how thick it should be, and for a permanent solution there might be a rubber washer of the right size in a plumbing store?

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jps wrote:

SPOT:

Spot


Strange. When you get it focused better, I wonder if the darkened parts will still be there. It looks like the emitter might have been damaged on one side, perhaps, or maybe part of the dome is still there on one side.

You could also examine it by putting it on moon mode, pulling the lens most of the way out to focus, and aiming a camera down inside to get a close-up picture of the emitter. You may also need to shine another light down inside, depending on how the camera behaves. I don’t have any zoomies with moon mode, but here’s a pic I got from that method with the light off:

(click to get even closer)

B42
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To me it looks like part of the dome is there, its effect could easily be causing those irregularities in the beam pattern (not the ring). Maybe you needed to soak for longer than one hour?

djozz
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I sometimes take pictures of emitting leds through a cd (also good for looking at the sun during an eclips Smile )

jps
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Well, i'm focussed now :).

I have used an extra 'O-ring' of solid copper installation wire to adjust the lens a bit.

Focussed beam

The projected picture of the die is not as sharp as my sk68 zoomy.

As you can see in the picture, the beam has a purple imperfection in one corner. Maybe the die is damaged, or its a little bit of the dome left on the die.

jps
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B42 wrote:
To me it looks like part of the dome is there, its effect could easily be causing those irregularities in the beam pattern (not the ring). Maybe you needed to soak for longer than one hour?

Well yes, maybe there’s a little part of the dome left. I don’t think soaking the PCB for a longer period would help, as the dome completely fell off and was kind of ‘crushed’, not dissolved. As the naked die is very vulnerable I didn’t brush the surface.

djozz
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jps wrote:

Well, i'm focussed now :).

I have used an extra 'O-ring' of solid copper installation wire to adjust the lens a bit.

Focussed beam

The projected picture of the die is not as sharp as my sk68 zoomy.

As you can see in the picture, the beam has a purple imperfection in one corner. Maybe the die is damaged, or its a little bit of the dome left on the die.

Well done! The blue in the corner is typical of a chip of phosfor broken off in the corner of the die during the dedome (you should be able to see it in a close up of the led), exposing the blue led underneath.

The image suggests that the led is not exactly centered under the lens.

Cheap glass lenses used in flashlights tend to do worse imaging than plastic ones. I still like them better because they do not scratch over time, and I do not want the ugly die imaged sharp anyway.

jps
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djozz wrote:
Well done! The blue in the corner is typical of a chip of phosfor broken off in the corner of the die during the dedome (you should be able to see it in a close up of the led), exposing the blue led underneath.

I think this is collatoral damage of dedoming then?

djozz wrote:

The image suggests that the led is not exactly centered under the lens.

Cheap glass lenses used in flashlights tend to do worse imaging than plastic ones. I still like them better because they do not scratch over time, and I do not want the ugly die imaged sharp anyway.

Smile  I'm fine with the picture. Ans the beam is small enough for me now.

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jps wrote:

djozz wrote:
Well done! The blue in the corner is typical of a chip of phosfor broken off in the corner of the die during the dedome (you should be able to see it in a close up of the led), exposing the blue led underneath.

I think this is collatoral damage of dedoming then?


or maybe cellulose based thinner is a bit harsh, I mean, full dedome in just an hour or less, that’s pretty fast chemical reaction.
Anyways, all those discolorations and unwanted rings are reason I don’t buy zoom light.

 

penumbra
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depends remains of silicone or around your LED?

I dedome with thiner and it works very well.

after the ball fell off is just lash out, blowing hard / blow / blow and back for an hour or two in it!
then back hard blow / blow BLOW … and you have a clean dedome.

the harder you drive up the Amp (4 or higher) clearer and more how you obtain whiter light.
furthermore, you can gently with a black marker around the silver plate LED colors around the LED itself to reflection.

penumbra
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The only thing I want with this flashlight is a spill from afar 100m + which is the same as the hub you have to + -10 meters.
if someone trick or another glass knows please replace. please let me know

and of course … of course even more light! :bigsmile:

borg
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another beam shot,

this time the modded Uniquefire uf-t20 VS a modded Trustfire X7, emitter : XP G2 R5 2B (with dome) at 5A current .


left: uniquefire , right trustfire

The Trustfire X7 should be at ~225 Klux.
What do you think guys? The uniquefire spot looks more intense, isn`t it ?

spamman
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Solder paste? In the video it he uses ‘solder paste’ in the pill… I am not sure what this is, can someone send a link to where I buy… Maybe from the ebay?

pommie
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This is only one of many places
clicky link

Go onto Ebay.au and search for “solder paste -flux”

be careful as there will be a lot of flux under all kinds of names mixed in the results :~

Cheers David

Nothing to see here folks, move along...

MRsDNF
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I have been using this without any hassle.

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1261003

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

WarHawk-AVG
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MRsDNF wrote:

I have been using this without any hassle.

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1261003


Question, could you scoop a glob of it, put it in a syringe with say a 14ga blunt tip needle (I use rotary tool and diamond wheel to grind sharp tips flat [I use it to put e-juice in my vapor systems thru small screw holes) and use that to place small bits of solder paste on the pads for reflow?

Something like this
http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchDisplay?min...

I used the full syringe tube that I got from amazon to dab globs of this on the pads when I made my 32*7135 SRK and 20mm TexasPyro Nanjg driver

A stencil from OSHStencils would DEFINITELY be a good idea if you plan to make more than one at a time (and they do VERY good work, I got both my stencils for the above, haven’t used them yet, but got the plastic mask and stencils for very cheap!

Here is rosin solder flux
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001213/1101900-high-intensity-sold...

But definitely like that FT solder paste! NICE!

RMM
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I have been using a toothpick, but stencils would be much faster and more precise for quantity work. 

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

Ervin Anastasi
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borg wrote:
another beam shot,

this time the modded Uniquefire uf-t20 VS a modded Trustfire X7, emitter : XP G2 R5 2B (with dome) at 5A current .


left: uniquefire , right trustfire

The Trustfire X7 should be at ~225 Klux.
What do you think guys? The uniquefire spot looks more intense, isn`t it ?

Hi,

first thank you to the thread starter for this nice mod and detailed review, I really like this stuff Smile Now my UF-T20 have arrived and i really like it. Still waiting for drivers and leds, seem there is no luck there for me…

Borg, liked very much your work too, and I am for xpe mood too. Still one question in my mind, how its possible u have spend all this in torch and leds and so on and still are missing a lux meter? I strongly advise you to get one, it will help you and us a lot.

With my bad luck with mail I have, got a lux meter and still waiting for led and drivers to arrive lol.

ah one more thing I am measuring stock UF-T20 and is giving me around ~ 22Klux, but my batteries are cheap TrustFire. Look that reading ok ?

some of my actual experiments and reviews:
UF-T20 review and mod —->http://budgetlightforum.com/node/30186#node-30186
My EBRZM, over 1 million cd thrower—-> http://budgetlightforum.com/node/30274#node-30274
Ervin’s try (2nd. Annual BLF Scratch Made L

djozz
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22klux sounds plausable, that is what you can expect of a xml in a good zoomie.

(thanks for the thanks, I would have never thought that this thread would attract new posts even after a year Smile )

Ervin Anastasi
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Well I believe this thread will go strong for a lot more than one year Smile

Personally i like throwers, and really like pocketabile ones with just 1×18650. My dream one will be one that is small like an M2 for excample or even a little bit smaller and throw 100Klux and up Big Smile (pretty much impossible by today standards I know)
This T20 is in the upper limit of the size to my tastes, so I will try to experiment a little bit with it with the hope to up the lux numbers as much as i can.

some of my actual experiments and reviews:
UF-T20 review and mod —->http://budgetlightforum.com/node/30186#node-30186
My EBRZM, over 1 million cd thrower—-> http://budgetlightforum.com/node/30274#node-30274
Ervin’s try (2nd. Annual BLF Scratch Made L

luminarium iaculator
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borg wrote:
another beam shot, this time the modded Uniquefire uf-t20 VS a modded Trustfire X7, emitter : XP G2 R5 2B (with dome) at 5A current . !{width:70%}[IMG]http://i59.tinypic.com/1jvp86.jpg[/IMG]! left: uniquefire , right trustfire The Trustfire X7 should be at ~225 Klux. What do you think guys? The uniquefire spot looks more intense, isn`t it ?

You have wrong tint for XP-E2... Try 1A or 2B tint... To me it seems like you are in 180KCD range with this mode. Get yourself light meter and open a thread with your version of Vavien collar I will buy it Smile

Stock Trustfires X7(sst-50& 80) are not throwing more than 50kcd, and I did not to try to mode one with XP-G2 because it seems that it has not right shape of reflector for that little led.So I think you are in 120 kcd range with your mode(and it would probably throw 200 or more kcd if you dedome it? Why not? 2B is my favorite tint for dedoming).

borg
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Ervin Anastasi,
no lux meter until my current aspheric project is done Smile

luminarium iaculator,
in the beamshots i locked the white balance to “daylight” . This makes the image to look more warmer. In reality, the spot is much more cooler.

i choose XP-E2 R4 (6100-6500K) tint because it was the only option from intl-outdoor.com store. I assume that 1A and 2B tint are cooler ?
Anyway, after installing a recycling light collar the tint becomes even more warmer than after dedoming.

About the Trustfire X7, if you check this thread by Andi , last page, post nr. 110, you will see that a hard driven and well focused dedomed xpg2 in the X7 will do 400-450 Klux.

About the recycling light collar, i am sure a lot of people would buy a collar custom made to fit the Uniquefire UF-T20, but also i do not think that wavien would be very happy about it, since they patented this technology. So i do not think this will going to happen Smile

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luminarium iaculator,
For now, i will not dedome the XP G2 2B in the Trustfire X7.
I bought the X7 to mod it into a aspheric thrower with a hard driven XP-E2 + 75mm lens . The XPG2 is installed now just to see how it shines with it, until my new lens arrives.

I want to report about the kaidomain 80mm aspheric lens link
This lens is not good for maximal throw, it has a bright spill and it can not focus all the light in the spot.

This is how the recycling light collar custom made for the Trustfire X7 looks :

luminarium iaculator
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Looking good that collar... Why would you not sell it to people? This is budget forum so you could make something with acceptable price to us and earn some $? I am first on waiting list...

Do you use welding mask when centering this collar? Or maybe moonlight mode only? I would have to use some eye protection for this because I mostly have single mode drivers.

Yes indeed XP-E2 R4 from IO are cool white with 1C tint(a bit greenish tint)...

Night picture taking is hard and with phone camera even harder so I should not judge the picture.

Illumination supply carries XP-E2 with 1D tint if you want to try something similar...

I don't think Andi gave correct data... It would be lucky if it throws 300 kcd with driven XP-G2.

"I bought the X7 to mod it into a aspheric thrower with a hard driven XP-E2 + 75mm lens"

Tried that in Xsearcher aspheric and if you find good aspheric it will be true laser like beam( I don't like it since it is smaller and I got even lower results than with hand selected XP-G2 2B (the brightest out of 20)

My advice is:

- No point of driving XP-E2 more than 2.8 A (no results and heat will be enormous if you will tune it up with more chips)

- Stick to newest XP-G2 S2 (brightest XP-G2) and order at least five pieces and select the brightest of them(you will surprise how much lux you can gain with right selection of emitters)

This is mine 450KCD(with lower performing brothers I had from 380+) Xsearcher with hand selected XP-G2 R5 2B driven at 3,6A heavy fog( I don't want to tune up further because it is single cell light)

I will try to made XP-G2 S2 1A (which should outperform this setup up to 10% or more if I find brightest among lot of them because 2B is in its upper performing class. If you don't understand what I talking about read here about led bins and performance deviation http://flashlightwiki.com/Cree )...

In fact I have 6 pcs of them I am just to lazy to start...

Looking forward for your build but I think it will be extreme hard to find good aspherics for X7. Good luck.

Tint graph:

 

 

 

 

 

 

borg
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Yes, i centered the collar using moonlight mode.

Recycling light technology is patented by Wavien and start selling the custom collars here would probably be like calling for trouble.

It would be nice if somebody that understands exactly how the law works in this case would step in and explain if there is a way of selling the aluminium collar clone without getting in trouble.

Jerommel
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Nâh, it’s unreasonable to patent properties of light (i.e. laws of physics), so f**k Wavien, and f**k LedLenser while you’re at it.
The nerve of some people… I mean really…
Inventions are usually discoveries anyway, so there.
Smile

I was looking for a picture here of the main tube, unmodded, because i just modded mine, taking care of the focussing business.
But i don’t have the ‘before’ pic…

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So, I have a UF-838 that I was going to put a de-domed XP-G2 in with a 3.04A Qlite / NLITE driver. But it has a hollow pill and I haven’t had the motivation to build a heat sink, and it has a rather long focal distance so it’d probably lose a lot more lumens than necessary when focused. My estimate is that it’d max out at about 60 kcd, based on holding the optics in front of another de-domed XP-G2 I have and measuring it.

I’m thinking it might be a better idea to just buy a UF-T20 to mod instead, and keep the UF-838 as a flooder. In wide mode, its lens is only like 1mm away from the emitter, so it has an extremely wide beam. Great as a “flash” for photography, but not very useful for anything else.

The goal here is to make a pocketable aspheric thrower for entertainment purposes. I don’t need 200+ kcd of throw, but I wouldn’t mind getting as much as possible out of something the size of a C8 or smaller.

Any thoughts on the best approach here? I currently have the UF-838 and de-domed XP-G2 on a 20mm star and a replacement 17mm driver and a dummy plate to mount the driver in a 20mm hole if necessary. Just not sure if I should grab a UF-T20 too, or just find and shape some copper to jam into the hollow pill and use the parts I already have.

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Hi

I’ve got a uf-t20 with dedomed xp-g2. It has additional copper in pill and spring mods.I just put in a fet driver by adding a fet to a 105c like comfy chair describes in one of his posts (but not same fet, but similar specs). Now I’m thinking I’d like to see what it is like with an XML dedomed. But I’m concerned with this driver it could blow the led with a inr 20c. Could it blow the led or am I worrying for nothing?

Thanks.

djozz
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austime wrote:
Hi I've got a uf-t20 with dedomed xp-g2. It has additional copper in pill and spring mods.I just put in a fet driver by adding a fet to a 105c like comfy chair describes in one of his posts (but not same fet, but similar specs). Now I'm thinking I'd like to see what it is like with an XML dedomed. But I'm concerned with this driver it could blow the led with a inr 20c. Could it blow the led or am I worrying for nothing? Thanks.

The XM-L2 has a lower voltage at a given voltage so it will draw more amps, if all is done well, as it seems, you could get 7A or so. I assume a direct thermal path copper board, clamped or soldered well onto the pill? Then it should work alright. The light will get hot, but it will handle the heat, at least for the first few minutes.

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I would put in an xm-l2, but only have xml on hand. Yes sinkpad, but attached with fujik. So even though the driver is capable of 10amps+ (what I have measured with basically the same driver on an srk), and the battery is supposed to be able to do 15amps, something stops it going to these levels? Sorry if that’s a dumb question. I’ve tried to read up and understand, but not quite there yet.

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