A Perfect Dedome?

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Tom E
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I already picked up a quart of MEK on the way home, so may give that a shot this eve.

KawiBoy1428
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Tom E wrote:

I already picked up a quart of MEK on the way home, so may give that a shot this eve.


I got some too! Going to try cold and then hot, in the crock pot!! Big Smile

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Jerommel
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Just so you know:

Jerommel wrote:
Well, that wasn’t too difficult afterall.
For the Dutchies:
https://www.fixxar.nl/elma-elma-thinner-tolueen-1-l.html
Probably not 100% toluene, but i think it’ll do.

(edit) O, dang… Their supplier had it wrong, they sent me normal thinner…
dispute in progress… Tired

Facepalm
Jerommel
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Update on previous post:
(only relevant to Dutch dedomers)

It’s a little confusing…
This “ELMA thinner” is sold as ‘thinner-tolueen’ but it doesn’t say ‘tolueen’ anywhere on the bottle, not even in the ‘samenstelling’ (contents).
However, after asking ELMA themselves they assured me there is tolueen in it.
They promised to send me a more detailed list of ingredients.
I will report back on this here.

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In Post 74 of the  Haikelite HT35 great deal (NOT 49.99) thread, dmsoule wrote:

 

dmsoule wrote:
Most lacquer is made from nitrocellulose, so the equivalent product in the USA would be lacquer thinner, I think. In any case, lacquer thinner is the most powerful solvent commonly available.

This sounds promising.  Has anyone try lacquer thinner here in the States? 

I don't know if lacquer thinner is safer than MEK.  I read the Material Safety Data Sheet ("MSDS") for MEK once and it scared me away from the product.

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Been testing White Spirit on an old XM-L and newer XM-L2s, a little bath and 3 to 4 days to soften and remove leftovers; does a pretty good job. If in a hurry, bain-marie.

 

Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.

The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.

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Finally got ahold of straight Toulene!

One BIG problem though.. After five minutes in the LED comes off with the dome.. Tried it two times with the same results.

Sledgestone
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Tried one more time and this time without heating the Toluene. It took a long time to get the dome completely clean. But it was totally worth it! For the first time there was not a single hint of green in the tint!

I will post a beamshot later showing this sst-40 against the one done in Nitro thinner.

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Here’s a crappy photo taken from my iPhone.. Is it even possible to take a good one on the phone?

Left: Sst-40 dedomed in hot Nitro thinner.
Right: Sst-40 dedomed in finger warm Toluene.

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Sledgestone, in order for camera pictures be worth comparing chromaticity wise, a common reference point must be used (usually “daylight” or 6500K). If “auto” is used the device will try to detect and compensate the spectra for it to look like daylight, usually with bad results with some sources but good with others (hardware and software dependent too, of course).

The pics look good to me, at least with regards to differentiating the dedoming process turn outs.

 

Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.

The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.

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I used to soak my LED’s in “wasbenzine”, what translates into: white-spirit; refined petrol; cleaning spirit; cleaning fluid; dry-cleaning naphta. Confused? Not really, the chemical compounds involved are seldom identical from brand to brand. Last time it took 48 hours, and I still managed to tear off the bond wires when removing the residue.
So I ordered some MEK (methyl ethyl keton) and the dome of the SST-40 came off in 2 hours, and much cleaner.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

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I was swapping an emitter in a bike light and one of the XP mcpcb boards I was modding I slipped while cutting with a small wheel.

long story short (after I picked it up from dropping it) it had yielded a perfectly shiny silver emitter surface that when turned on at way under driven amounts, was the most even mule of “angry blue” I had even seen. I cant even guess and what color it would have been called. 000A or light royal blue.

But just so you know if you ever need a high power blue you can start with normal yellow.

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Suggestions for reasonably priced protective coating for de-domed emitters? I only tried once so far (warm gas soak with no apparent loss of phosphor) and came close to success but my hand twitched while picking off a bit of residue near a bond wire… will try again but want to have a suitable sealer here before doing so.

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Ronin42 wrote:
long story short (after I picked it up from dropping it) it had yielded a perfectly shiny silver emitter surface that when turned on at way under driven amounts, was the most even mule of “angry blue” I had even seen. I cant even guess and what color it would have been called. 000A or light royal blue.

That would be called “blue”. Big Smile

White LEDs are just monochromatic blue LEDs that’re coated with a mixture of phosphors that emit green, yellow, red, etc. when excited by shorter-wavelength (ie, blue) light.

Less phosphor means more blue light gets out unimpeded and less blue light gets reradiated as warmer colors, hence “cool” white.

More phosphor means less blue light gets out unimpeded and more blue light gets reradiated as warmer colors, hence “warm” white.

There’s a conversion loss from blue to other colors, which is why warmer-white LEDs are less efficient than cooler-white LEDs.

 

Sounds like you just shaved off all the phosphors and left the nekkid blue LED undamaged.

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Lightbringer
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tekwyzrd wrote:
Suggestions for reasonably priced protective coating for de-domed emitters?

Umm, LED Seal? http://www.ledsupply.com/accessories/led-seal-silicone-spray-sealant

Crap, I just ordered from ‘em, should’ve gotten myself some…

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tekwyzrd
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Lightbringer wrote:
tekwyzrd wrote:
Suggestions for reasonably priced protective coating for de-domed emitters?

Umm, LED Seal? http://www.ledsupply.com/accessories/led-seal-silicone-spray-sealant

Crap, I just ordered from ‘em, should’ve gotten myself some…

Thanks. I’ve never ordered from that vendor but the price is better than I saw elsewhere. Still curious if there are any tested alternatives. For example, I’ve been wondering if a uv curing clearcoat scratch repair liquid might work. Cars parked under direct sinlight get pretty hot and the material would have to deal with the temperatures associated.

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Lightbringer
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tekwyzrd wrote:
Thanks. I’ve never ordered from that vendor but the price is better than I saw elsewhere. Still curious if there are any tested alternatives. For example, I’ve been wondering if a uv curing clearcoat scratch repair liquid might work. Cars parked under direct sinlight get pretty hot and the material would have to deal with the temperatures associated.

Pretty good. Decent prices, fast shipping, no complaints at all.

Miller-Stephenson (in Connecticut) sells all sorts of conformal coatings, including silicone! Ie, pull off the dome, but with thinned silicone, a thinthinthin coating can protect the nekkid chip, but still be less of a coating than a shaved LED.

Silicone, urethane, you name it. Something like 5-6 different kinds.

You can get ‘em in a spray-can or also in bottles, last I recall. Quick spritz onto a disposable surface, finefinefine brush (forgot what they’re called, “baby-hair” or something weird like that) to apply right to the surface of the chip.

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Jerommel
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Sledgestone wrote:
Here’s a crappy photo taken from my iPhone.. Is it even possible to take a good one on the phone?

Left: Sst-40 dedomed in hot Nitro thinner.
Right: Sst-40 dedomed in finger warm Toluene.

Wow!
Where did you get the stuff?
(shipping to NL will probably be expensive though…)
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Those Green Berets much likely are due to usage of solvents with acetone (like that nitro thinner stuff). 

I also keep tiny leftovers of dome substance over the bond wires but not the die, protects them.

 

Smile

Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.

The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.

Sledgestone
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Jerommel wrote:
Sledgestone wrote:
Here’s a crappy photo taken from my iPhone.. Is it even possible to take a good one on the phone?

Left: Sst-40 dedomed in hot Nitro thinner.
Right: Sst-40 dedomed in finger warm Toluene.

Wow!
Where did you get the stuff?
(shipping to NL will probably be expensive though…)

I got it from here:
https://www.stadshop.se/p/stadkem-320/rengoringsmedel/interiorvard/losni...

They don’t seem to ship to other countries though..

I would offer to buy it and send it to you myself, but that would be like 50€ in total..

Jerommel
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Sledgestone wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
Sledgestone wrote:
Here’s a crappy photo taken from my iPhone.. Is it even possible to take a good one on the phone?

Left: Sst-40 dedomed in hot Nitro thinner.
Right: Sst-40 dedomed in finger warm Toluene.

Wow!
Where did you get the stuff?
(shipping to NL will probably be expensive though…)

I got it from here:
https://www.stadshop.se/p/stadkem-320/rengoringsmedel/interiorvard/losni...

They don’t seem to ship to other countries though..

I would offer to buy it and send it to you myself, but that would be like 50€ in total..

Is shipping a bottle like that €40 (390kr) ?? Sad
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No, but the price for shipping it to me is 20€ ~185sek. The bottle itself is only 10€, but the shipping is expensive because of hazardous material I think.

And the same is applied when shipping hazardous material to other countries. Come to think of it I’m not even sure that I’m allowed to ship it..

Jerommel
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Okay, i see.
I forgot the shipping to your address..

Sledgestone
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Let me know if you want me to do some research if I can send it or not!

Jerommel
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Sledgestone wrote:
Let me know if you want me to do some research if I can send it or not!

Alright, if it’s not too much work.
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Update:
Forget the nitro thinner, especially the ELMA stuff, of which i’m still not sure if it actually contains toluene or not… Facepalm

From Germany: http://www.aurelio-online.com/Toluol-analysenrein-C7H8-mind-995-1-Liter-...
From England: https://m.ebay.com/itm/Toluene-Toluol-500ml-99-9-Pure-very-High-quality-ACS-Lab-Grade-500-ml-/332123462068

I just ordered a 1 Liter bottle from Germany, €19,48 shipped.

Jerommel
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Sledgestone wrote:
Finally got ahold of straight Toulene!

One BIG problem though.. After five minutes in the LED comes off with the dome.. Tried it two times with the same results.


I forgot to ask:
What did come off with the dome?
The phosphor?

Maybe pure toluene is too agressive, should be mixed with something more neutral. Facepalm

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Thu, 03/28/2013 – 20:52

leaftye wrote:

MRsDNF wrote:

Is there an alternate to petrol (gasolene), I cant keep it here as the wife has a problem with it similar to the problem I have with alcoholic beverages.Wink


What about its components like toluene and xylene?  You should be able to find those at your hardware store.  Whatever you don’t use for LEDs you can put into the gasoline tank of your vehicle.

Funny.
First mention of toluene 4½ years ago, only recently we actually try it.
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Jerommel wrote:
Sledgestone wrote:
Finally got ahold of straight Toulene!

One BIG problem though.. After five minutes in the LED comes off with the dome.. Tried it two times with the same results.


I forgot to ask:
What did come off with the dome?
The phosphor?

Maybe pure toluene is too agressive, should be mixed with something more neutral. Facepalm

Yes, the glue that held the phosphorus completely dissolved in high temperature Toluene. I don’t think you have to mix it. Even though the dome popped of in about five minutes in cold Toluene I had to leave it in for over 15 minutes to get it completely clean. So I’m not worried about that.

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Toulene is the nastiest chemical I use regularly. Cancer in a can. It soaks through your skin. The vapors also have made me very ill. There’s good reason it is hard to find in stores. It is the best at dissolving silicone, though. Gloves and respirator are a must. It might even soak through nitrile and latex.

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