Toulene is the nastiest chemical I use regularly. Cancer in a can. It soaks through your skin. The vapors also have made me very ill. There’s good reason it is hard to find in stores. It is the best at dissolving silicone, though. Gloves and respirator are a must. It might even soak through nitrile and latex.
I hear ya! I use gloves and a gas mask when using it!
I think Tom E ordered Zep Aerosolve 2 from eBay to dedoom with.
Just be careful with that, it’s Trichloroethylene.
WARNING: This product contains a chemical or chemicals known to the state
of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm.:
Trichloroethylene
I think here in EU it’s no longer available because it’s cancerous.
Found a PDF that say that silicone fluids (related to the doom silicone?) are soluble in chlorinated hydrocarbons (as Trichloroethylene is)
Symptoms of toluene poisoning include CNS effects (headache, dizziness, ataxia, drowsiness, euphoria, hallucinations, tremor, seizures, and coma), ventricular arrythmias, chemical pneumonitis, respiratory depression, nausea, vomiting, and electrolyte imbalances. There is no antidote for toluene.
I was using it outside on a very hot day in the sun, inhaled too much I guess, or pehaps it penetrated my gloves. Instant flu-like symptoms, dizziness, all of the above.
Like I said though, it makes even the toughest silicone wash away like water. Ace hardware stores in the United States carry it, I think.
Good luck! Don’t forget to wear butyl gloves and gasmask.
Read somewhere that nitrile gloves is not good with withstanding toluene and in some racing/car forum they mix this with the gasoline to raise the octane value but someone warned not to use over 20℅ toluene in the mix otherwise it starts to dissolve the nitrile fuel lines.
Good luck! Don’t forget to wear butyl gloves and gasmask.
Read somewhere that nitrile gloves is not good with withstanding toluene and in some racing/car forum they mix this with the gasoline to raise the octane value but someone warned not to use over 20℅ toluene in the mix otherwise it starts to dissolve the nitrile fuel lines.
I run VP C114+ Race fuel in my Drag Bikes and that’s exactly what this stuff smells like!
Well 2 hours on warm in the crock pot, domes are swelled up, but not off, let it sit over night, got up at 3:00 a.m. Targets remain….will check after work…
No worries, the slower the better! The boiling Imron Thinner blew the domes off 5 XHP70 emitters and the phosphorus with them, the 70.2 came off in like 5-10 minutes in the stuff, but the beam was crap, the phosphorus is like really chunky, the only ones that it worked on was the XHP35 HD’s I de-domed. But I ran them in lights first, the other were brand new never lit up!!
Jeez not slow enough! So after 2 days cycling between warm (the lowest setting on the crock pot) and cold, letting it sit over night, gone thru 9oz. of Toluene… it’s not good!
The domes on 2 must have been hanging by the bond wires and took them out with just blowing on them and the first one hit with a light blast of air took the phosphorus as a complete pad with it?
The XML’s XP-G2’s no problem.
Had them sitting up, as not to pull phosphorus off hanging them upside down, like what happened with the XHP70’s?
I’ll give it another go, hanging them upside down and see? IF this don’t work, I’ll just go back to agitation and cold fluid de-doming……takes forever but it works for me with the XHP35’s and XHP70’s.
Well the liquid de-doming isn’t the problem, that I’m finding out with the tougher LED’s, it’s the time, nothing good comes fast I guess.
And too Hot seems to just explode the domes up off these tough LED’s and takes phosphor with it, as I witnessed doing the Hot and I mean bubbling HOT de-doming (MEK ) the XHPLED’s.
I’m going to reflow 3 more SST’s and hang them and just go slow, till they fall off? Then see what’s UP?
Normally I just use one of them Jewelry Sonic cleaner’s and IMRON paint thinner but it could take a week or two, because I only run it when I’m going to be around to monitor it, other wise it just sits in the fluid.
Let’s call it heated chemicals method, works fine for me when I dedome XML2, XPL or XPE2 leds, usually I hang then upside down submerged in liquid heated to about 45-50 degrees celsius. It takes about 40-60 minutes and as soon as I notice that the dome has lifted from the phosphorus surface I take them out, remove the dome, wash the led with 96% alcohol then remove remaining silicone around the phosphorus “core”, wash again with alcohol then with destilled water, dry it out with compressed air and that is it, for XPL its even faster because silicone dome doesnt go around the led like on XML2 or XPG2… leds.
This method gives me minimum tint shift, I would say that 6500K only drops to 6000-5800K (but I have no way to measure this so, it’s my subjective opinion).
I really want to put one in my M25C2 Turbo, I have a de-domed XPL-W2 6500k in it now and at 6.27 amps it’s throwing just over 580kcd conservatively, on a VTC5A. I want to see what the SST-40 can do. I’ll probably change the FET out on the real old Mtn FETDD driver after I take a current reading if the driver can’t supply 8amps to the LED? I have SIR800’s 404DP’s and Infineon FET’s I could try out?
Sort of dedomed an SST-40 on white spirit, but screwed up the little bond wire which connects the two substrate pieces while removing dome leftovers with a toothpick. What is it for?
Cheers
—
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.
Sort of dedomed an SST-40 on white spirit, but screwed up the little bond wire which connects the two substrate pieces while removing dome leftovers with a toothpick. What is it for?
Sort of dedomed an SST-40 on white spirit, but screwed up the little bond wire which connects the two substrate pieces while removing dome leftovers with a toothpick. What is it for?
Cheers
Check comment #8 on this thread where Lexel repaired a broken bond wire.
You might as well put some solder on that bondwire on the right side of the led to decrease resistance?
Or is that a bad idea?
Are you kidding?
Sure this will reduce the LEDs resistance significantly to a few mOhms, but usually FETs and batteries dont like shorts so much
On all new LEDs is this ESD protection device between positive and negative side
That bond wire?
Edit: copy the whole quote so you get the whole picture instead of just saying it’s for ESD protection so you don’t go and put a solder blob there and damage something. (Well maybe works if you ONLY gets solder on the wires but that would be tricky. Maybe wrong.. ask the experts)
True reverse-polarity protection would have to shunt the full reversed-voltage current as the LED would handle if forward-biased, and that’s way too small. So it’s probably a small zener diode, about o(10V) or so, to just shunt small reverse-biased voltage spikes from static.
Anyone want to test it?
Snap together a few 9V batteries, 1 at a time!!, put a 100kΩ resistor in series with it, then “zap” the LED backwards and measure the voltage across the LED. Full battery voltage means the zener ain’t conducting yet. If the voltage is, say, 6.2V from a single 9V battery, it’s a 6.2V zener. If 9V from one 9V battery but 12.6V from a pair at 18V, then it’s a 12.6V zener. Etc.
Keep the current to around 0.1mA (100µA) or less, preferably much less.
I hear ya! I use gloves and a gas mask when using it!
Okay, thanks for the warnings.
I think Tom E ordered Zep Aerosolve 2 from eBay to dedoom with.
Just be careful with that, it’s Trichloroethylene.
WARNING: This product contains a chemical or chemicals known to the state
of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm.:
Trichloroethylene
I think here in EU it’s no longer available because it’s cancerous.
Found a PDF that say that silicone fluids (related to the doom silicone?) are soluble in chlorinated hydrocarbons (as Trichloroethylene is)
The PDF:
The least dangerous of them (on the left side on the picture) should be ethyl acetate.
It’s used in a disinfectant for small cuts here in Sweden.
Anyone tried ethyl acetate to dedoom a LED?
Don’t even look at it.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
Pretty much.
I was using it outside on a very hot day in the sun, inhaled too much I guess, or pehaps it penetrated my gloves. Instant flu-like symptoms, dizziness, all of the above.
Like I said though, it makes even the toughest silicone wash away like water. Ace hardware stores in the United States carry it, I think.
Oh now I’m really scared, why did I even buy this stuff?
Like boiling MEK wasn’t bad enough!!
Well I got the 15 SST-40’s today, maybe should order one of them Life Alerts just in case….
Going in…..
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Good luck! Don’t forget to wear butyl gloves and gasmask.
Read somewhere that nitrile gloves is not good with withstanding toluene and in some racing/car forum they mix this with the gasoline to raise the octane value but someone warned not to use over 20℅ toluene in the mix otherwise it starts to dissolve the nitrile fuel lines.
Remind me never to eat pot roast at your house.
I run VP C114+ Race fuel in my Drag Bikes and that’s exactly what this stuff smells like!
Well 2 hours on warm in the crock pot, domes are swelled up, but not off, let it sit over night, got up at 3:00 a.m. Targets remain….will check after work…
No worries, the slower the better! The boiling Imron Thinner blew the domes off 5 XHP70 emitters and the phosphorus with them, the 70.2 came off in like 5-10 minutes in the stuff, but the beam was crap, the phosphorus is like really chunky, the only ones that it worked on was the XHP35 HD’s I de-domed. But I ran them in lights first, the other were brand new never lit up!!
So I think slower is better….
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
How long is slow
Jeez not slow enough! So after 2 days cycling between warm (the lowest setting on the crock pot) and cold, letting it sit over night, gone thru 9oz. of Toluene… it’s not good!
The domes on 2 must have been hanging by the bond wires and took them out with just blowing on them and the first one hit with a light blast of air took the phosphorus as a complete pad with it?
The XML’s XP-G2’s no problem.
Had them sitting up, as not to pull phosphorus off hanging them upside down, like what happened with the XHP70’s?
I’ll give it another go, hanging them upside down and see? IF this don’t work, I’ll just go back to agitation and cold fluid de-doming……takes forever but it works for me with the XHP35’s and XHP70’s.
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
For SST-40 I am giving up on liquid method and switching to shawing, just have to buy some razor blades.
Well the liquid de-doming isn’t the problem, that I’m finding out with the tougher LED’s, it’s the time, nothing good comes fast I guess.
And too Hot seems to just explode the domes up off these tough LED’s and takes phosphor with it, as I witnessed doing the Hot and I mean bubbling HOT de-doming (MEK
) the XHP LED’s. 
I’m going to reflow 3 more SST’s and hang them and just go slow, till they fall off? Then see what’s UP?
Normally I just use one of them Jewelry Sonic cleaner’s and IMRON paint thinner but it could take a week or two, because I only run it when I’m going to be around to monitor it, other wise it just sits in the fluid.
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Let’s call it heated chemicals method, works fine for me when I dedome XML2, XPL or XPE2 leds, usually I hang then upside down submerged in liquid heated to about 45-50 degrees celsius. It takes about 40-60 minutes and as soon as I notice that the dome has lifted from the phosphorus surface I take them out, remove the dome, wash the led with 96% alcohol then remove remaining silicone around the phosphorus “core”, wash again with alcohol then with destilled water, dry it out with compressed air and that is it, for XPL its even faster because silicone dome doesnt go around the led like on XML2 or XPG2… leds.
This method gives me minimum tint shift, I would say that 6500K only drops to 6000-5800K (but I have no way to measure this so, it’s my subjective opinion).
Where can i buy sst-40 hi ?
Thanks
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
for better beam focus, better throw.
I am sory, that’s confidential, you have to have at least 1000 posts for that info.
You really need to read this forum a lot more before commenting…
I did the click. Each of you got one.
Thanks, that’s what I get for trying to explain things
I see no rudeness but then we are all different.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
OK, I’ll try to explain why do I see 2 comments as rude:
1.
My reading of this post is “your posts are illogical”
2.
I don’t see any explanation in here. Just silencing a new member who asks questions.
BTW the post when I admitted marking the posts as rude is considered rude by someone.
That’s what I’m thinking right now!
I really want to put one in my M25C2 Turbo, I have a de-domed XPL-W2 6500k in it now and at 6.27 amps it’s throwing just over 580kcd conservatively, on a VTC5A. I want to see what the SST-40 can do. I’ll probably change the FET out on the real old Mtn FETDD driver after I take a current reading if the driver can’t supply 8amps to the LED? I have SIR800’s 404DP’s and Infineon FET’s I could try out?
JUST Something to do….
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Always with the negative waves, Moriarty. Always with the negative waves…
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
Sort of dedomed an SST-40 on white spirit, but screwed up the little bond wire which connects the two substrate pieces while removing dome leftovers with a toothpick. What is it for?
Cheers
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.
Viruses DON'T cause diseases! They are better called exosomes, and they are cell cleaners! Watch Virus Theory vs Exosome Theory video and awaken to this truth! Check this article by MD Andrew Kaufman. Read the book “Béchamp or Pasteur” by Ethel Hume for in-depth information.
Hm? Looking at
http://www.luminus.com/images/SST-40-W.png
and zooming in, can’t quite make out any “substrate pieces”.
Is there an antistatic diode off on the side?
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
I thought it was a reverse polarity protection!
Check comment #8 on this thread where Lexel repaired a broken bond wire.
Link: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/56893
That bond wire?
Edit: copy the whole quote so you get the whole picture instead of just saying it’s for ESD protection so you don’t go and put a solder blob there and damage something. (Well maybe works if you ONLY gets solder on the wires but that would be tricky. Maybe wrong.. ask the experts)
Aha, much better view.
True reverse-polarity protection would have to shunt the full reversed-voltage current as the LED would handle if forward-biased, and that’s way too small. So it’s probably a small zener diode, about o(10V) or so, to just shunt small reverse-biased voltage spikes from static.
Anyone want to test it?
Snap together a few 9V batteries, 1 at a time!!, put a 100kΩ resistor in series with it, then “zap” the LED backwards and measure the voltage across the LED. Full battery voltage means the zener ain’t conducting yet. If the voltage is, say, 6.2V from a single 9V battery, it’s a 6.2V zener. If 9V from one 9V battery but 12.6V from a pair at 18V, then it’s a 12.6V zener. Etc.
Keep the current to around 0.1mA (100µA) or less, preferably much less.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
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