Manafont "Triple T6 Cree Circuit Board Driver" - Macros

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dthrckt
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Manafont "Triple T6 Cree Circuit Board Driver" - Macros

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/flashlight-component-triple-t6-...

my camera (and I) suck at macros…but here we go

MRsDNF
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Thank you.

 

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Chicago X
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Hmmm...all of mine have the chips filed down.

I wonder what state secrets they are trying to hide.

http://wardogsmakingithome.org/index.html

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jacktheclipper
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Cool

What I do

 

relic38
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For the chips, one is a diode, one is a FET …. Wait a minute, someone is banging on the door…

….
This is the CIA, user relic38 has been incarcerated for espionage. Big Smile

Looks like three current sense resistors there. One R100, one R250, and one mystery value under the R250.
This is where you would add a resistor (on top of the R100) to bump up the drive current. Wink

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dthrckt
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excellent thanks, relic

(this thread was started to continue the resistor discussion w/o thread crapping elsewhere Smile )

so – would we need to know the mystery resistor value to make an accurate estimate on what to use?

I get 4.3A at emitter for xml/xml2 – but actually got much lower current to an mtg2 than ima4wheeler got (probably because of the stock leads and my test leads).

Its probably safe to assume 3.5-4A at 6V

I’d be happy with at least 5, and no more than 6 amps…

relic38
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It would help to have all of the resistor values. If we assume the safer value of R250, then we have 0.056 Ohms total. If that’s 4A then the voltage is 0.056Ohms * 4A = 0.226V on the resistors. This is a pretty common feedback voltage, actually. To get ~5.5A, the resistance = 0.226V / 5.5A = 0.0411 Ohms.
You need to add one R180 (0.18 Ohm) resistor to get 0.043 Ohms, to err on the side of caution. This is all based on the assumption that there is an R250 under the R250. Wink
Edit: Assuming an R250 under the R250 is not a safe assumption. In fact the safer assumption is to assume there is a smaller value there. As it turns out, it’s probably an R200, based on a newer version of that driver (pic below from ImA4Wheeler). Because of that, an R180 is going to be a lot closer to 5A. Maybe go with R200 or R220, just off the cuff values. Too lazy to calculate this time Wink

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dthrckt
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sounds likely to me, thanks

ImA4Wheelr
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I may be remembering wrong, but I’m confident mine have 3 sense resistor pads. I think they are labeled R5, R6, & R7. I can check tonight when I get home.

EDIT: Another potential difference. I have two sets of positive and negative wires (one connected to each side of the vertical board) feeding the MT-G2. Did that because of long wire length and tightness of gap below the reflector. I don’t recall the gauge, but it’s thick by flashlight standards. I also have my battery feeds directly soldered to the driver and then going directly to the battery terminals (no springs or other connections in between). My on/off switch is between the 2 batteries (Judco 10amp. Also directly connected.) In summary, there should be very low resistance and low chance of any weak connections that can be caused by threads, etc.

RedForest UK
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Does yours work with 2 li-ion cells in series? I got mine to replace the driver which eventually blew on my SR3800 but it’s just moonlight modes at 8.4v and I don’t have any 3 series hosts to put it in.

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I just logged on to Manafont and double checked what I ordered. It is the same driver you have linked above. I’ll check tonight and if different I’ll post a macro of it.

dthrckt
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RedForest UK wrote:
Does yours work with 2 li-ion cells in series? I got mine to replace the driver which eventually blew on my SR3800 but it’s just moonlight modes at 8.4v and I don’t have any 3 series hosts to put it in.

yup, ima4wheeler and I are both using 2S cells. I haven’t tried 3S.

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I just noticed another difference. Mine has some type of epoxy between the to boards. It covers some of the components too. I would probably destroy the driver trying to separate the boards.

dthrckt
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Interesting. When did you buy it?

The one I have in a light looks like the one pictured, and I bought that over a year ago. I got my other two from another member a couple months ago, and I think he bought them before I bought my first one.

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2/21/2013

RedForest UK
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dthrckt wrote:
yup, ima4wheeler and I are both using 2S cells. I haven’t tried 3S.

Oh dear, I’m probably too late to contact manafont about it now too.

I had thought about using it in the DRY but even after seperating the boards and wiring connections so they aren’t at a right angle anymore it still didn’t fit.

ImA4Wheelr
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Ok. They must have changed the driver design, but not updated the website pictures or they sent me something different. 3 sensor resistor pads, R2, R5, R7 with R200, R250, and R100, respectively. Here is a picture:

TrakTuned
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relic38 wrote:
It would help to have all of the resistor values. If we assume the safer value or R250, then we have 0.056 Ohms total. If that’s 4A then the voltage is 0.056Ohms * 4A = 0.226V on the resistors. This is a pretty common feedback voltage, actually. To get ~5.5A, the resistance = 0.226V / 5.5A = 0.0411 Ohms. You need to add one R180 (0.18 Ohm) resistor to get 0.043 Ohms, to err on the side of caution. This is all based on the assumption that there is an R250 under the R250. Wink

Huh? .200 .250 .250 ohms all together, how is .056 calculated?

BLF members are hilarious:
“That’s like saying “My car has top-speed of 200k millimiles per hour”. Why not to just say 10 Ah?”

dthrckt
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definitely a change, and not just position of r2, because my r2 says 103 on it

ImA4Wheelr
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Is the R2 you’re refering to on the same side of the same board? I ask because I doubt the driver boards are coordinated that well with each other. I wouldn’t be surprised if you saw the same addresses (i.e. R2) on both sides of the same board.

dthrckt
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If you mean, is there another location labelled R2, then no.

you can see R2 in the first pic I posted, but can’t quite read the value. I used a 7g5v2 collimator lens to read it lol

when checking I noticed that both of mine have some markings you can’t make out in the photos

TR-0159B
and
2011-06-18

ImA4Wheelr
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Ah. Good idea. Mine say:

TR-0159D
2012-01

apt323
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:
Ok. They must have changed the driver design, but not updated the website pictures or they sent me something different. 3 sensor resistor pads, R2, R5, R7 with R200, R250, and R100, respectively. Very similar to the original 3T6. Here is a pick:

How do you get your pictures to fit on the webpage?


My board has the three same resistors in the same places as your ImA4Wheelr except they are all the same physical size on mine. Also there is a R2 on the bottom contact board that has 103 on it. I just got in .12 ohm resistors. Where should I add them to bump power?

Thanks for starting this dthrckt

ImA4Wheelr
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you can solder them directly on top of the existing resistors or in place of them, depending on what level of resistance you are shooting for.

I second that. Thank you for starting this thread dthrckt.

ImA4Wheelr
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Tried to get a little more info off the driver this morning.

  • The adhesive residue is fairly easy to remove with a pick. It is flexible, peels and crumbles. This is very good news from a modding stand point.
  • The round board is labeled, “TR-0159C2”.
  • The MCU has 10 legs and appears to have this code on it, “TR35”. Difficult to read due to adhesive residue. I’ll take another look at it tonight. It would be nice to identify this chip to see if we can program it.
ImA4Wheelr
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I tried last night and again this morning. I can’t make out the labeling on the mcu. I would be nice to be able to reprogram this driver since it is low cost and easy to modify it’s power output.

relic38
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TrakTuned wrote:
relic38 wrote:
It would help to have all of the resistor values. If we assume the safer value or R250, then we have 0.056 Ohms total. If that’s 4A then the voltage is 0.056Ohms * 4A = 0.226V on the resistors. This is a pretty common feedback voltage, actually. To get ~5.5A, the resistance = 0.226V / 5.5A = 0.0411 Ohms. You need to add one R180 (0.18 Ohm) resistor to get 0.043 Ohms, to err on the side of caution. This is all based on the assumption that there is an R250 under the R250. Wink

Huh? .200 .250 .250 ohms all together, how is .056 calculated?


I had this pic to refer to, which shows .100, .250, and I assumed a safe .250 for the underneath mystery resistor:

The more recent picture from 4wheeler shows .100, .200, .250 on a slightly different driver.
Can you show me where you got your values from? :~

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Bob Loblaw
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I just received this driver and there is no resistor on R5, just 2 blank pads. Should I be concerned?

ImA4Wheelr
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What does the the label say on the one resister you do have?

EDIT:  Does it appear that there is more than one resistor stacked?

Bob Loblaw
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next to r5 is r7, it has a single R050

ImA4Wheelr
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That is pretty much in line with the cummulative resistance of the 3 resisters (R250,R200,R100) that are normally in place.  Should get you around to 4.5 amps of current.

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