high amperage clicky replacement?

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pounder
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high amperage clicky replacement?

Hey guys..just checked my one light and it has a 1.5a clicky installed..seeing as this light draws 3.8-4.6 amp depending on the battery I really want something that can handle the current..anyone have a line on one? and please no 40$ mcclickies..i'd rather carry a bag full of 1.5a clickies and replace them in the field lol

pounder
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Be-Seen Triker wrote:

What does it need to fit?

I can pretty much any size fit with washers etc but the actual size of the clicky I have to replace is 22 mm

brjones
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Do you prefer forward or reverse clicky?


Shiningbeam is famous for selling forward clickies, labeled on the website as being for "Romisen" but working for many models (BTW -- does anyone know if their 2 clicky models are actually different from each other?). Don't know the rating but old4570 uses them and recommends them. Also, Kaidomain sells the 'clicky' only--not even a replacement switch actually. Just the plastic box with the actual clicker, which you'd have to solder. Those have been tested out the wazoo and have come up recommend, and cheap.


Neither endorsing nor dissing McClicky, but you can get 'just the switch' McClicky for like $7 or so, at least at Lighthound. I too thought it was that expensive, and I can't remember why--has to do with something from my days on CPF. However, it doesn't fit exactly correct with the plastic washer on my Solarforce (which you said wouldn't be a problem for you). I've been having trouble with mine (I think I am the problem, as this is my first clicky switch swapout). Mine right now acts more like a 'twisty', shorting to the retaining ring, at least unless I insulate the part below the spring with tape. To me, the forward momentary comes on too easily. The spring seems too light--the travel has very little resistance. Really easy to light up accidentally, at least in momentary. That's a problem in a protruding tailcap like the stock Solarforce L2. McClicky and the Kaidomain 'clickboxes' are the only ones I know of which have been truly tested for current--and then, it's been by actual users.


Believe it or not, I've been having good reliability with the DX 'replacement tailcap' (reverse, of course--it's DX) they sell for like $3. It looks similar to my WF-504B tailcap, but is a bit different--and hasn't burn out with XM-L use, unlike my 504B one. Bought it 'just in case' when I was a newb, and really glad I did.

 

It looks like Eagletac replacement internal switches aren't sold anymore, which is a pity--well-reviewed and I was gonna get one before belatedly finding out they've apparently been liquidated and discontinued.

 

It occurred to me a photographic tutorial of 'replacing a switch in a tailcap' would be quite a help to many users who start off here. Considering my mcclicky experience so far however, I doubt I'm the person to do that.

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brjones wrote:


Believe it or not, I've been having good reliability with the DX 'replacement tailcap' (reverse, of course--it's DX) they sell for like $3. It looks similar to my WF-504B tailcap, but is a bit different--and hasn't burn out with XM-L use, unlike my 504B one. Bought it 'just in case' when I was a newb, and really glad I did.

 

This switch works also on 501, 502, etc?

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srfreddy
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brjones wrote:

Do you prefer forward or reverse clicky?


Shiningbeam is famous for selling forward clickies, labeled on the website as being for "Romisen" but working for many models (BTW -- does anyone know if their 2 clicky models are actually different from each other?). Don't know the rating but old4570 uses them and recommends them. Also, Kaidomain sells the 'clicky' only--not even a replacement switch actually. Just the plastic box with the actual clicker, which you'd have to solder. Those have been tested out the wazoo and have come up recommend, and cheap.


Neither endorsing nor dissing McClicky, but you can get 'just the switch' McClicky for like $7 or so, at least at Lighthound. I too thought it was that expensive, and I can't remember why--has to do with something from my days on CPF. However, it doesn't fit exactly correct with the plastic washer on my Solarforce (which you said wouldn't be a problem for you). I've been having trouble with mine (I think I am the problem, as this is my first clicky switch swapout). Mine right now acts more like a 'twisty', shorting to the retaining ring, at least unless I insulate the part below the spring with tape. To me, the forward momentary comes on too easily. The spring seems too light--the travel has very little resistance. Really easy to light up accidentally, at least in momentary. That's a problem in a protruding tailcap like the stock Solarforce L2. McClicky and the Kaidomain 'clickboxes' are the only ones I know of which have been truly tested for current--and then, it's been by actual users.


Believe it or not, I've been having good reliability with the DX 'replacement tailcap' (reverse, of course--it's DX) they sell for like $3. It looks similar to my WF-504B tailcap, but is a bit different--and hasn't burn out with XM-L use, unlike my 504B one. Bought it 'just in case' when I was a newb, and really glad I did.

 

It looks like Eagletac replacement internal switches aren't sold anymore, which is a pity--well-reviewed and I was gonna get one before belatedly finding out they've apparently been liquidated and discontinued.

 

It occurred to me a photographic tutorial of 'replacing a switch in a tailcap' would be quite a help to many users who start off here. Considering my mcclicky experience so far however, I doubt I'm the person to do that.

Mcclickies have both hard and soft-press tail boots.

pounder
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thanks for the info! I have one of those clickies from DX in this light right now..or at least i think I do..

 

it's held up so far, but the 1.5a thing bothers me for reliability..

jb1
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For those of us unfamiliar with the different types, what's the difference between the forward and reverse type? (other than the obvious different direction Laughing)  Also, I plan on ordering a SolarForce L2P and using the Manafont XM-L drop-in, do I need to plan on changing out the clicky or can it handle the draw?

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With a forward clicky, you can partially depress the clicky and the light will come on before you actually "click" it (a half-press gives you light, and shuts off when you stop pressing).

With a reverse clicky, you have to fully click it to make the light turn on.

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jb1 wrote:

For those of us unfamiliar with the different types, what's the difference between the forward and reverse type? (other than the obvious different direction Laughing)  Also, I plan on ordering a SolarForce L2P and using the Manafont XM-L drop-in, do I need to plan on changing out the clicky or can it handle the draw?

Ive got both types from solarforce 

first the forward- when you press its momentary on- when you click its fully on- on multi mode leds each momentary press changes modes and a click turns on that more.

 

reverse- when u press nothing happens-when u click its on-while its on you can cycle through modes on each press.

03/04/16 

 

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jb1
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Thanks guys. I just saw the other thread about the switches at SolarForce. With the Manafont XM-L drop-in, should I go ahead and order a Solarforce TailStand HaIII Click switch 4 L2 L2M L2P L2x Surefire? Crap, $4.50 clicky on a $20 light. Or there suitable alternatives from any of the other vendors? I'm in no rush for any of the parts.

Haggai
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Is wattage related to the issue?

I mean, the DX clicky pounder mentioned is rated at 1.5A@250v, which means 375W... should it have any problem with a 12.6W XM-L at 3A@4.2V?

Or does the current rating only say how much current can flow through the clicky at any voltage level?

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Haggai wrote:

Is wattage related to the issue?

I mean, the DX clicky pounder mentioned is rated at 1.5A@250v, which means 375W... should it have any problem with a 12.6W XM-L at 3A@4.2V?

Or does the current rating only say how much current can flow through the clicky at any voltage level?

Actually wattage does not have anything to do in this case. The switch will handle that current regardless of the voltage (to certain degree). The voltage rating is there just to tell what kind of electrical insulation the switch provide and is capable of handling, current aside. That switch cannot probably be reliable in 0,000000000005A scenario at 5.000V. Wattage wise would do easily. Look at it like you would do with a fuse. REgardless of voltage the current spike will burn it always when reaching the required amount.

This is my understanding and i do not posess a electrotechnical degree. Maybe some1 else more savvy can provide better info.

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jb1
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Be-Seen Triker wrote:

JB, Manafont will send you 10 switches for under $5 (group buy anyone?)

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/part-replacement-tailcap-switch-for-c850060080090010001200-10pcsset-p-5947

Just check to see if this is the same as what is in your tailcap now.

This is what mine looks like inside:

Thanks for the reply. On the description, it says C8. Is that the same as a SolarForce L2P? I thought C8 was its own "size."

jb1
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I haven't purchased one yet. I was waiting until I figured out if I needed to order tail switches that'll be able to handle the XM-L drop-in. Maybe someone who has one can throw up a pic if they've disassembled theirs.

pounder
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I don't have a pic of the l2p on me, but I have disected it..the clicky has a little yellow top (the part that moves for the click) and a black box about 1 cm x 1 cm....then it's just mounted to a board..

edit: good old google came through..it's the one at the top..

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I've been using the guts of a Solarforce S6 switch (that swaps out wonderfully and is a perfect fit for the L2X, L2P, and L2) that I put in a gunmetal L2 or my Manafont XM-L 3-mode and it's been run continuously for many minutes at a time with no melting or performance issues.  I've also used the Shiningbeam forward clickies in my XM-L lights after first wrapping them in copper tape until they're snug in the cap before tightening the retaining ring down.  Once again - no problems - the only problems you're likely to encounter with the Shining beam switches is that the spring isn't easily accessible and is painfully short so it may not work with all light/battery combos.  Also, FYI, a McClicky with the brass ring adapter threads perfectly into the Solarforce S6 tailcap, but not the regular L2 tailcap...

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jb1 wrote:

Be-Seen Triker wrote:

JB, Manafont will send you 10 switches for under $5 (group buy anyone?)

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/part-replacement-tailcap-switch-for-c850060080090010001200-10pcsset-p-5947

Just check to see if this is the same as what is in your tailcap now.

This is what mine looks like inside:

Thanks for the reply. On the description, it says C8. Is that the same as a SolarForce L2P? I thought C8 was its own "size."

I recieved the 10 pack switches from manafont. Fits well all my P60 hosts. Smile Rated 1,5A and 250V momat or something manufacturer :/

Actually is this one: http://omten.en.alibaba.com/product/231926927-209742572/ON_OFF_Push_Butt...

The rating differs the manufacturer is the same ad the switch just liek it with the same shape contacts.

kragmutt wrote:

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