I like the DrJones driver. I just like the idea of ramping up or down in an easy manner. That way I can set the brightness to where I feel it should be, instead of someone’s preset. Plus, it comes from another member and I like that idea too.
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.
Thanks for making this thread without scary people. You again have scared me though with all that wiring and them driver thingy bits. Off to the shrink I go again. :_( Do you know where the centering ring for the reflector came from? Almost forgot. Well done on finishing this at times troublesome build. I suppose this light from the get go was designed to be a flooder. I’ll send my pill, star and led over to you to join all the bits together at once as you have done here. With my ability I’m sure to get one off the four areas to dry solder.
—
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Thanks for making this thread without scary people. You again have scared me though with all that wiring and them driver thingy bits. Off to the shrink I go again. :_( Do you know where the centering ring for the reflector came from? Almost forgot. Well done on finishing this at times troublesome build. I suppose this light from the get go was designed to be a flooder. I'll send my pill, star and led over to you to join all the bits together at once as you have done here. With my ability I'm sure to get one off the four areas to dry solder.
The centering ring was out of an old Magcharger light. Just spare parts laying around.
—
My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.
comfychair may have a good idea there. I haven’t successfully dedomed one yet though. It would be nice to know what the current at the tailcap was to see if that was a reason that it does not live up to your expectations but you would need ten good hands to do that. Speaking off hands hows the finger? Cheers, Bored.
—
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Great mod OL. I can't imagine the amount of work you put into this stuff.
Just wondering if the NiMH cells are supposed to be able to vent around the tip. From the photos it seems like the epoxy holding the magnets might prevent this.
Or am I not seeing it clearly.
I once saw the rubber tailcap on one of my 3xAA lights puff up like a mushroom when I somehow lost track of my cells and put a lesser charged one in with two fresh ones. Cell reversal, venting, balloon at the tailcap before I noticed. (I was using it as a bike light one very dark night.)
Someone else maybe, but not me. I've done it before, but really don't want to again. Actually, all I want to do, is to stipple the reflector and smooth out the beam.
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My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
I got the copper SinkPad and I reflowed the XM-L2 to the star and the star to the heat sink all at one time. I tinned the bottom and top sides of the star and fluxed the led contacts as well as the copper pins in the heat sink. Then I put it in a vise and heated from underneath with my torch. Once the led flowed into place, I hit the underside of the heat sink with a can of compressed air turned upside down, so it would cool the heat sink quickly. Seemed to work fine except for my big error. It works fine and does not affect anything really, but I will let you figure out the error. Someone will catch it.
Those cans don’t work too well upside down? Shot fluid everywhere?
Those cans don’t work too well upside down? Shot fluid everywhere?
That’s the idea. The fluid converts to a gas and that cools things down quickly… like down below -40 degrees. I use $3 cans of “canned air” instead of $12 cans of freeze spray for debugging electronics. They are the same chemical. Be careful, you can easily thermally shock and damage something. Also, never spray fluorocarbons into an open flame, the results can be highly toxic.
I got the copper SinkPad and I reflowed the XM-L2 to the star and the star to the heat sink all at one time. I tinned the bottom and top sides of the star and fluxed the led contacts as well as the copper pins in the heat sink. Then I put it in a vise and heated from underneath with my torch. Once the led flowed into place, I hit the underside of the heat sink with a can of compressed air turned upside down, so it would cool the heat sink quickly. Seemed to work fine except for my big error. It works fine and does not affect anything really, but I will let you figure out the error. Someone will catch it.
Those cans don't work too well upside down? Shot fluid everywhere?
They work excellent as the "fluid" (which I suspect is something like freon), comes out super cold, like liquid nitrogen, so it immediately turns into something like snow, but it's cold enough to cool a heat sink off in a split second.
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My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
Tried the lumo35drv version for ramping?
Thanks for making this thread without scary people.
You again have scared me though with all that wiring and them driver thingy bits. Off to the shrink I go again. :_( Do you know where the centering ring for the reflector came from? Almost forgot. Well done on finishing this at times troublesome build. I suppose this light from the get go was designed to be a flooder. I’ll send my pill, star and led over to you to join all the bits together at once as you have done here. With my ability I’m sure to get one off the four areas to dry solder.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Beam shots are up now, in the OP
My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel
The BLF Modding Links Thread
My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel
The BLF Modding Links Thread
Rip the dome off that sucker! :bigsmile:
comfychair may have a good idea there. I haven’t successfully dedomed one yet though. It would be nice to know what the current at the tailcap was to see if that was a reason that it does not live up to your expectations but you would need ten good hands to do that. Speaking off hands hows the finger? Cheers, Bored.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Great mod OL. I can't imagine the amount of work you put into this stuff.
Just wondering if the NiMH cells are supposed to be able to vent around the tip. From the photos it seems like the epoxy holding the magnets might prevent this.
Or am I not seeing it clearly.
I once saw the rubber tailcap on one of my 3xAA lights puff up like a mushroom when I somehow lost track of my cells and put a lesser charged one in with two fresh ones. Cell reversal, venting, balloon at the tailcap before I noticed. (I was using it as a bike light one very dark night.)
Inventive, ingenius, inthemailtomenodoubt.
Nice beam as well, in spite of all the issues this one has worked out well…like most of your lights end up.
Well done!
My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel
The BLF Modding Links Thread
Wow. For a moment, I thought the moon had chosen to rest awhile on that wall. It’s so round and bright
AMAZING mod, good work
-Sean
That’s the idea. The fluid converts to a gas and that cools things down quickly… like down below -40 degrees. I use $3 cans of “canned air” instead of $12 cans of freeze spray for debugging electronics. They are the same chemical. Be careful, you can easily thermally shock and damage something. Also, never spray fluorocarbons into an open flame, the results can be highly toxic.
My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel
The BLF Modding Links Thread
Great work as always!
Your mods are always illuminating.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
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