Me too, can’t wait to see some beamshots and personal commentaries. Those are sweet lights and w the BTU at a new price point (and presumably the L2 U2 version not too far behind), they both have their strengths and weaknesses…not to forget the Fenix either.
With neither the SF or the Fenix being readily moddable, that already puts the ribbons around the BTU for many at BLF.
The head is nice, the switch area is nice with it’s threaded mount….wonder if a plug could be made to cap it off at the switch and wire it in to the 12V car electrical system, mount 2 of the head/switch units on a bull bar for “driving lights” WOW!
With neither the SF or the Fenix being readily moddable, that already puts the ribbons around the BTU for many at BLF.
Not sure that is entirely accurate… comfychair modded his S1100, which is essentially the S2200s sister. But I understand the BTU is probably more “modification friendly” in general.
Crappy lights have more room for improvement, and are generally cheaper (at least initially). S1100/2200 needs what, exactly? Already has a very very nice double AR lens. Driver's current sense resistors are easily accessible, emitters are easily swapped. Upgrade the wiring from contact plate to driver and from driver to LED, and what else needs fixin'?
I just pulled 2 of the 3 screws off the driver cover easily. The 3rd was tight and I wasn’t quite willing to go there. But no red locktite on the first 2.
Comfy? Do you think it’d be doable to get that dielectric layer out from under the emitter if the cover plate isn’t done with locktite? I don’t like that. Want it gone.
With the 2 other screws out, gently pry the cover plate in both directions, if that last screw isn't loctited that will loosen it up (it's only located by the screws, there's no counterbore fitment of any of those parts, so it will move around with just one screw in). If you can get the plate to rotate and it doesn't loosen the screw afterwards, it's likely got the loctite curse on it.
You can lift the MCPCB up away from the base (too much heat transfer with it still touching, makes soldering difficult) and unsolder the wires without removing the cover plate.
edit: I don't know what kind of board they use with the MTG2 version, curious to see if it's the same style as the XML.
If I decided to attack this, is there a way to make the driver step up to higher amperage? Would like to see it realizing a little closer to it’s full potential…not looking for 9A but…ok 9A would be fantastic! LOL (Serial #9, order number compressed to 9 according to numerology, so why not 9 amp?)
But seriously 5A would be great. Think that would be something I could do while I was in there? Or is that getting considerably more complicated?
I don't know if anybody's worked out what does what on the sense resistors yet, but decreasing the total resistance will increase the current. There are 4 resistors all in parallel, R240 & R220. Adding more resistors in parallel decreases the total resistance. There are many web page calculators to figure out what any combo of a given array of resistors will be, but the rule is, resistors in parallel will always be less total resistance than the lowest value resistor...
I don't know what those R220/R240s measure, probably 2.2 & 2.4 ohms. Adding another 2.4 ohms stacked on top of any of the originals is probably where I'd start, assuming that guess at the originals' values are correct (I would remove at least one of each, and measure before picking what value to add).
Comfy,
Do you know the voltage drop across the resistors? Since they appear to be in parallel it would the same across all four (so no need to measure all four other than to confirm their parallel topology). Knowing that voltage drop (current output to the emitter is helpful too) will let us determine what values to add to set emitter current at 5A.
Anyone that ordered after solarforceflashlight-sales went on hiatus, got a shipping confirmation/tracking number yet?
—
You are the light of the world. Like a city on a hill, you cannot be hidden. People do not light a lamp and then hide it away, instead they put it where it gives lig
Y’all will be pleased after the wait, I’m loving this light! Even use the lo mode regularly, just love the color of the output and it’s very nice all the way around. Well worth waiting for.
I'm going to be downright frustrated if it arrives during my exams.
—
You are the light of the world. Like a city on a hill, you cannot be hidden. People do not light a lamp and then hide it away, instead they put it where it gives lig
Just got my shipping notification and tracking number. Yay!
RB972370495HK
—
You are the light of the world. Like a city on a hill, you cannot be hidden. People do not light a lamp and then hide it away, instead they put it where it gives lig
You are the light of the world. Like a city on a hill, you cannot be hidden. People do not light a lamp and then hide it away, instead they put it where it gives lig
Ok, trying something out…let me bounce this off you guys. I reckon most here know by now I’m a photographer. I use Canon equipment. The lenses (L series) come with hoods and I use them to keep light refraction from making green spots in my pics. (When a direct light source like the sun hits inside the lens this refraction bounces around off the AR coatings and causes red or green splotches, opposite the angle of the light entering the lens tube)
So, if a hood can be used to shield light coming IN, why can’t it be used to direct light going OUT? The S2200 puts out a very wide beam with tons of spill, but as a result it’s throw is reduced somewhat. So I made a hood for it. Tightens up the projected light considerably, but don’t know yet if it helps throw…only beam shots will tell. My hood adds about 4 1/2” to the end of the light. I’ll try to get some beamshots tonight with and without and we’ll see how that works!
Would love to hear some opinions before the tests, so hit me with your best shot! lol
Quick and dirty, not finished, no finesse shot of the light with hood…
I think you will perceive increased throw, but only because the shield will reduce the amount of light on stuff between you and the target, making the target seem like there's more light hitting it. A light meter at the target would very likely read exactly the same with & without.
Bringing the side spill into the game doesn’t push it any further downrange as it doesn’t change the core power. But it won’t be a matter of perception once I get pics of the resulting beam. (Any excuse to set up and take pics is a good enough excuse for me! )
On the other hand, in researching what makes the best reflector, the science says depth creates throw. A shallow reflector isn’t capable of gathering the light that leaves the emitter at an angle that escapes the desired trajectory before the walls of the reflector can gather it and redirect. So it might prove interesting to see if this hood has that kind of effect, even marginally. This science proves solid when looking at the result of a small emitter vs a large one, the radiant angles of light dispersion are more aligned with a forward trajectory in the smaller die thus elimating the extensive need to redirect the beam into a forward core. The larger die has more angle of dispersion, creating need for deeper walls in a reflector to gather and channel it.
This isn’t my argument, mind you, but the science of the companies that make the reflectors in the first place. Of course, I could have it all wrong…
Bringing the side spill into the game doesn’t push it any further downrange as it doesn’t change the core power. But it won’t be a matter of perception once I get pics of the resulting beam. (Any excuse to set up and take pics is a good enough excuse for me! )
On the other hand, in researching what makes the best reflector, the science says depth creates throw. A shallow reflector isn’t capable of gathering the light that leaves the emitter at an angle that escapes the desired trajectory before the walls of the reflector can gather it and redirect. So it might prove interesting to see if this hood has that kind of effect, even marginally. This science proves solid when looking at the result of a small emitter vs a large one, the radiant angles of light dispersion are more aligned with a forward trajectory in the smaller die thus elimating the extensive need to redirect the beam into a forward core. The larger die has more angle of dispersion, creating need for deeper walls in a reflector to gather and channel it.
This isn’t my argument, mind you, but the science of the companies that make the reflectors in the first place. Of course, I could have it all wrong…
I wonder what would happen if you lined the inside of your “hood” with the shiny side of aluminum foil, making it as smooth as possible?
Me too, can’t wait to see some beamshots and personal commentaries. Those are sweet lights and w the BTU at a new price point (and presumably the L2 U2 version not too far behind), they both have their strengths and weaknesses…not to forget the Fenix either.
With neither the SF or the Fenix being readily moddable, that already puts the ribbons around the BTU for many at BLF.
So you like this light, a bunch! Nice.
Waiting to see comments about this vs the Crelant, the BTU, the Fenix… I’ll be able to buy one. Shame on my budget, sounds like I need 2 at least…
The head is nice, the switch area is nice with it’s threaded mount….wonder if a plug could be made to cap it off at the switch and wire it in to the 12V car electrical system, mount 2 of the head/switch units on a bull bar for “driving lights” WOW!
Not sure that is entirely accurate… comfychair modded his S1100, which is essentially the S2200s sister. But I understand the BTU is probably more “modification friendly” in general.
I like copper
Crappy lights have more room for improvement, and are generally cheaper (at least initially). S1100/2200 needs what, exactly? Already has a very very nice double AR lens. Driver's current sense resistors are easily accessible, emitters are easily swapped. Upgrade the wiring from contact plate to driver and from driver to LED, and what else needs fixin'?
I just pulled 2 of the 3 screws off the driver cover easily. The 3rd was tight and I wasn’t quite willing to go there. But no red locktite on the first 2.
Comfy? Do you think it’d be doable to get that dielectric layer out from under the emitter if the cover plate isn’t done with locktite? I don’t like that. Want it gone.
With the 2 other screws out, gently pry the cover plate in both directions, if that last screw isn't loctited that will loosen it up (it's only located by the screws, there's no counterbore fitment of any of those parts, so it will move around with just one screw in). If you can get the plate to rotate and it doesn't loosen the screw afterwards, it's likely got the loctite curse on it.
You can lift the MCPCB up away from the base (too much heat transfer with it still touching, makes soldering difficult) and unsolder the wires without removing the cover plate.
edit: I don't know what kind of board they use with the MTG2 version, curious to see if it's the same style as the XML.
If I decided to attack this, is there a way to make the driver step up to higher amperage? Would like to see it realizing a little closer to it’s full potential…not looking for 9A but…ok 9A would be fantastic! LOL (Serial #9, order number compressed to 9 according to numerology, so why not 9 amp?)
But seriously 5A would be great. Think that would be something I could do while I was in there? Or is that getting considerably more complicated?
You need one of these...
I don't know if anybody's worked out what does what on the sense resistors yet, but decreasing the total resistance will increase the current. There are 4 resistors all in parallel, R240 & R220. Adding more resistors in parallel decreases the total resistance. There are many web page calculators to figure out what any combo of a given array of resistors will be, but the rule is, resistors in parallel will always be less total resistance than the lowest value resistor...
I don't know what those R220/R240s measure, probably 2.2 & 2.4 ohms. Adding another 2.4 ohms stacked on top of any of the originals is probably where I'd start, assuming that guess at the originals' values are correct (I would remove at least one of each, and measure before picking what value to add).
Comfy,
Do you know the voltage drop across the resistors? Since they appear to be in parallel it would the same across all four (so no need to measure all four other than to confirm their parallel topology). Knowing that voltage drop (current output to the emitter is helpful too) will let us determine what values to add to set emitter current at 5A.
No not ready to dive into that right now, got too many other things in a million pieces already... S)
Anyone that ordered after solarforceflashlight-sales went on hiatus, got a shipping confirmation/tracking number yet?
You are the light of the world. Like a city on a hill, you cannot be hidden.
People do not light a lamp and then hide it away, instead they put it where it gives lig
i ordered last week… and no… im still waiting
Y’all will be pleased after the wait, I’m loving this light! Even use the lo mode regularly, just love the color of the output and it’s very nice all the way around. Well worth waiting for.
I have not received a shipping notification either. A little annoyed to be honest…
My OCD Spreadsheet of my Lights, Batteries, Chargers, and all things Flashaholic related
I'm going to be downright frustrated if it arrives during my exams.
You are the light of the world. Like a city on a hill, you cannot be hidden.
People do not light a lamp and then hide it away, instead they put it where it gives lig
Blind the professors with your new light and steal the test answers.
My OCD Spreadsheet of my Lights, Batteries, Chargers, and all things Flashaholic related
From Solarfoceflashlight-sales.com:
Well I’m glad they took an unscheduled 5 extra days of vacation and still havent shipped my light…
My OCD Spreadsheet of my Lights, Batteries, Chargers, and all things Flashaholic related
Just got my shipping notification and tracking number. Yay!
RB972370495HK
You are the light of the world. Like a city on a hill, you cannot be hidden.
People do not light a lamp and then hide it away, instead they put it where it gives lig
when did you order ramblings? just so we can get an idea of how well they are getting through the back log of orders
I just got notifications for the orders I placed on 5/18/13 (S2200) and 5/20/13 (L2M & SS Pocket Clip)
My OCD Spreadsheet of my Lights, Batteries, Chargers, and all things Flashaholic related
ok thanks… i ordered on 5/26 so i should get notification soon i would think
I ordered on the 18th of May.
You are the light of the world. Like a city on a hill, you cannot be hidden.
People do not light a lamp and then hide it away, instead they put it where it gives lig
i got my shipping notice this morning woohoo!
Ok, trying something out…let me bounce this off you guys. I reckon most here know by now I’m a photographer. I use Canon equipment. The lenses (L series) come with hoods and I use them to keep light refraction from making green spots in my pics. (When a direct light source like the sun hits inside the lens this refraction bounces around off the AR coatings and causes red or green splotches, opposite the angle of the light entering the lens tube)
So, if a hood can be used to shield light coming IN, why can’t it be used to direct light going OUT? The S2200 puts out a very wide beam with tons of spill, but as a result it’s throw is reduced somewhat. So I made a hood for it. Tightens up the projected light considerably, but don’t know yet if it helps throw…only beam shots will tell. My hood adds about 4 1/2” to the end of the light. I’ll try to get some beamshots tonight with and without and we’ll see how that works!
Would love to hear some opinions before the tests, so hit me with your best shot! lol
Quick and dirty, not finished, no finesse shot of the light with hood…
I think you will perceive increased throw, but only because the shield will reduce the amount of light on stuff between you and the target, making the target seem like there's more light hitting it. A light meter at the target would very likely read exactly the same with & without.
Bringing the side spill into the game doesn’t push it any further downrange as it doesn’t change the core power. But it won’t be a matter of perception once I get pics of the resulting beam.
(Any excuse to set up and take pics is a good enough excuse for me! 
)
On the other hand, in researching what makes the best reflector, the science says depth creates throw. A shallow reflector isn’t capable of gathering the light that leaves the emitter at an angle that escapes the desired trajectory before the walls of the reflector can gather it and redirect. So it might prove interesting to see if this hood has that kind of effect, even marginally. This science proves solid when looking at the result of a small emitter vs a large one, the radiant angles of light dispersion are more aligned with a forward trajectory in the smaller die thus elimating the extensive need to redirect the beam into a forward core. The larger die has more angle of dispersion, creating need for deeper walls in a reflector to gather and channel it.
This isn’t my argument, mind you, but the science of the companies that make the reflectors in the first place. Of course, I could have it all wrong…
I frequently get it all wrong. It doesn't seem to cause any permanent damage.
I wonder what would happen if you lined the inside of your “hood” with the shiny side of aluminum foil, making it as smooth as possible?
BTW, how’d you attach that to the bezel?
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