Custom SkyRay King SRK Driver

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oRAirwolf
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I’m in for one if these become available

leaftye
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texaspyro wrote:
leaftye wrote:

How low do you think moon mode could go?

Unknown at this time... AMC7135 chips require a certain minimum pulse width to turn on. At 15 kHz PWM, this is around 1.5-2% of the full PWM range. That produces a very dim output. Couple that with the capacitive load of driving 24 chips and you may need to boost the PWM some more to get the LEDs to light up. The minimum setting might vary depending up the LEDs and AMC7135 chips that are used. A setting that just lights one light could put 50 lumens out another one. Once you get the width wide enough to turn on the LEDs, each PWM step should increase the output around 10-12 lumens.

I was tempted to ask you for you a low moon mode, but it might be better to handle this with the ramping mode you're already planning on doing.  It could start ramping at crazy low levels that might just barely light up one LED.  That would be good enough if there's mode memory or if it's user programmable.  Hell, I don't think I'd even care if you share the code.  It'd finally motivate me to buy the tools to program the chips, and I could tweak your program to suit my needs perfectly.  You're putting in a lot of special code though, so I would understand if you wanted to keep it to yourself.

The low mode should be lower.

Tiggis
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I should buy three Smile

JAS
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@texaspyro: How about turning on single LED for moonmode if there are individually addressed.

I have few to add

-Leads for MCU for easy programming if the real estate permits.
-Individually addressed AMC7135
-Individually addressed LED modes(also used for status).

Sirius9
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I also wanted to suggest individually addressed LEDs like niteye E30-E40 has for low modes if it is poseable and leads from mcu for one smd led that could be mounted near the switch and used as status indicator led like with P25/TM26/EA4 etc.

But, I don't get the idea of ultra low "moon" modes, those are just unusable for me, minimal amount of lumens that I find usable are about 80-100lm, for anything less than that you could just use:

Laughing

 

ImA4Wheelr
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Nice work. Looks like it will be a real winner. I hoping that you’ll be selling these boards and and MCU’s. Wishing you the best of success on this endeavor.

DrJones
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 Very nice Cool   I'd like one, too Smile

 

 C1, 1k and 8k3 are the voltage divider for battery monitoring?

relic38
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Awesome work texaspyro! I might have to consider one of these too!

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reliant_turbo
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me want. at least just the board and some code. i have an avr programmer and can even source my own parts.

texaspyro
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DrJones wrote:
C1, 1k and 8k3 are the voltage divider for battery monitoring?

Yes. The values were chosen so that if I sum 10 ADC samples, the resulting value (plus a calibration offset value) is the battery voltage in millivolts. The voltage divider is driven by a processor pin (not directly off the battery) so that it can be turned off when not actually measuring the battery voltage… considerably reduces the driver parasitic drain.

texaspyro
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Sirius9 wrote:
I also wanted to suggest individually addressed LEDs like niteye E30-E40 has for low modes if it is poseable and leads from mcu for one smd led that could be mounted near the switch and used as status indicator led like with P25/TM26/EA4

Not enough pins on the processor for addressable LEDs…

There is a pin on the processor that is used to power strobe the battery voltage divider. It blips every 0.25 seconds when the light is off and at 60 Hz when it is on. One might be able to cobble a status LED onto that pin. I don’t know if the pulse width is wide enough to be visible…

It is rather difficult in the ramping modes to stop at the setting that is moon mode… the next tick up would be another 10 lumens. There are now two ramping modes available. Slow mode ramps up/down over 4 seconds and includes every available PWM value. Fast mode takes two seconds and skips every other PWM value.

texaspyro
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JAS wrote:
-Leads for MCU for easy programming if the real estate permits.

I tried to put a 6 pin ISP header on the board, but there is no room.

It turns out all the pins required for ISP programming are available on easily accessible/solderable pads on the board. You could cobble a short ribbon cable with a 6 or 10 pin ISP connector to those pads. I think there is enough space in the SRK driver compartment for the cable.

DrJones
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> It is rather difficult in the ramping modes to stop at the setting that is moon mode… 

That's why I usually add a pause at the lowest and highest level.

texaspyro
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DrJones wrote:

> It is rather difficult in the ramping modes to stop at the setting that is moon mode… 

That’s why I usually add a pause at the lowest and highest level.

I sort of do that… I blip the LED at the ends of the ramp. I could make it a bit longer of a pause/blip.

Ford Prefect
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YES PLEASE!

I will be in for one if you make these available.

Will be watching this thread!

RaceR86
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Looks very promising! Smile

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leaftye
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With this and copper stars, the SRK should be the chinese lumens rating by a healthy amount and the potential for much more with stacking.  Cool

The low mode should be lower.

texaspyro
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I got the first cut of the boards in today, but probably wont assemble them.

I changed the layout some to move the regulators inward a little so they wont hit the walls of the driver cavity on some versions of the SRK.

I also made those vias/drill holes in the power ring a bit bigger. The increased surface area of the new via walls should be able to better handle the current.

I also made the board around 0.4 mm wider so that it can be press fit into the head… the first board (and original SRK driver) turned out to be too small to press fit. If the board to too big for your SRK, it can be sanded down some.

The code for the processor is looking good. The random strobe is nasty… I also added a way to select the alpine distress beacon mode. It does not appear in the default mode list since those 10 and 60 second pauses in the flashing might make the typical user think something is wrong when that mode is selected (hey, I got one blip and then the light shuts down). To get the alpine mode you have to program the light. If you attempt to store the OFF state in the user mode list, that mode is stored as the alpine beacon mode (OFF is automatically/always made the first mode in the mode list).

FlashPilot
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Way to go pyro! It looks like you’ve planned for most contingencies and built a really robust versatile driver.

relic38
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pyro, this is awesome! We need to bandy together the ‘BLF development team’ to make the 17mm boost driver a reality. Wink

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FlashPilot
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Just imagine, “the blf triple boost SRK driver”.

Serifus
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Might it be easier to also do a boost driver that can do 6v for mtg2 or the voltage for 3/4 xmls or xml2’s?
4P is a nice setup, and its looking like most of the 4p stuff is fairly interchangeable

panthervision23
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That’s another awesome SRK driver. Thanks for the giving us the details here.

PilotPTK
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relic38 wrote:
pyro, this is awesome! We need to bandy together the ‘BLF development team’ to make the 17mm boost driver a reality. Wink

I really think that everyone underestimates the size and complexity of a high ratio boost converter.. I’m not saying it’s impossible, but it’s not a 20 minute hobby project either.. The Ipk currents get staggering pretty quickly with high ratio boost, and all of the components in the switch loop have to be sized to handle them.

Inductors that can handle the Ipk of the type of driver you’re talking are just not ‘small’. For the most part, neither are MosFETs that can handle these current levels. Even the Diodes get bigger… Boost needs a sizable output cap.. Everything takes up precious space.

I wish the ‘BLF Development Team’ luck, but I’ll be a bit surprised if a single board 17mm driver becomes a reality that can do 4A in boost mode…

PPtk

I am currently extremely busy with work. Please do not expect a response from me quickly. I will be dropping in as time permits, but the amount of time I can dedicate to responding to topics and PMs is very limited.

relic38
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Thanks for the input PPtk. I don’t want to derail pyro’s thread, so I’ll quote you in the driver ideas thread.

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jmpaul320
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this is awesome!!

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
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mattthemuppet
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nice job Texaspyro, looks very tidy! I’m always impressed by the ease with which people design these drivers. I’m also really interested by how you implemented temperature monitoring, as that’s something I’d really like to do at some point. As above, I appreciate that you might want to keep your code to yourself, but if you did feel like releasing it, even just the part for temp monitoring, it’d be hugely appreciated! Even if not, I’ll have to bug you once I’m up to speed on programming on how to tackle it.

I’d also second the request for a mid-discharge warning – the pulse from current drive level to 50% of that a couple of times would be plenty sufficient. Obviously it’s utility will vary with the batteries that are used, but it’ll still be useful.

SeenTheLight
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Owning a SRK with a horrible PWM low, and a high mode that cooks the unit after a few minutes – I’d love to get hold of one of these drivers, either as a bag of components or a fully assembled unit.
Thanks TexasPyro.
P.S. After lurking for a while, signed up to BLF just to subscribe to this thread! Smile STL

texaspyro
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There is a feature in the code to gracefully slew the PWM level when changing modes (instead of just jumping to the new level). I’m not sure if it should be enabled… it might make identifying that you are in a ramping mode a little confusing (even though it is faster than the ramp modes).

Speaking of ramping, should the ramp start at the current PWM level and ramp up or always start at dim and ramp up or start at max and ramp down? At the end of a ramp cycle, the direction reverses, it blips the light, then it repeats ad nauseum. Currently, I have it starting at dim and ramping up.

Slim Pickens
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texaspyro wrote:
There is a feature in the code to gracefully slew the PWM level when changing modes (instead of just jumping to the new level). I’m not sure if it should be enabled… it might make identifying that you are in a ramping mode a little confusing (even though it is faster than the ramp modes).

That sounds like a high-end feature. I vote for its inclusion.
texaspyro wrote:
Speaking of ramping, should the ramp start at the current PWM level and ramp up or always start at dim and ramp up or start at max and ramp down? At the end of a ramp cycle, the direction reverses, it blips the light, then it repeats ad nauseum. Currently, I have it starting at dim and ramping up.

Ideally ramping should pause for a second after that quick blip at highest and dimmest. I also vote for always ramping up from dimmest. That way the user will always know how long ramping will take. You could also apply the aforementioned smooth PWM slewing here to minimize the jarring transition from (say) 75% to dimmest.

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