Custom SkyRay King SRK Driver

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PilotPTK
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Pulsar wrote:

Werner wrote:
So no bypass off the thermal shutdown possible? Why? We are all grown up and should have the freedom to switch a light on in high mode if we want so.

because he is building a driver exactly how he wants it...

+1000

I am currently extremely busy with work. Please do not expect a response from me quickly. I will be dropping in as time permits, but the amount of time I can dedicate to responding to topics and PMs is very limited.

leaftye
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I figure if he doesn't lock down the source code, I'll go in and mod it if it's really a big deal.  Either way, it's his driver that he doesn't have to share.

The low mode should be lower.

B42
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I dont know, I appreciate the thermal shutdown so much more after the other day: I was in a rush and thought I unscrewed my SRK head enough so it would not come on and popped it in the side laptop pocket for a quick 10 minute trip so I could recharge the batteries at my destination. Then I started smelling hot plastic in the car…couldnt figure out where it was coming from until I went for my bag: the SRK had melted most of the side of my XTAR charger, and the SRK was very hot Sad

Yeah yeah, I know I should have taken the batteries out, but since I was just driving 10min and unscrewed it most of the way, I figured it was safe enough. A thermal management like Texaspyro is making on these quick to heat up beasties with side switch would have save people from such a silly easy to make mistake getting worse! And I really cant imagine needing maximum bright absolutely: as I understand it this driver will just step down until temperature is “normalized” not go right to turn it off, correct?

dthrckt
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Glad I decided to check in here!

If these are available for <=$30, I’d like 3. If they’re <=$20, I’d like 4.

oh, and VERY nice job Smile

relic38
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I’m not speaking for or trying to persuade pyro here, but if I was making this for the purpose of selling it for profit, I would not open source the firmware. That’s the secret sauce, where all the real work is.
The hardware (while I’d have a tough time laying it out) is relatively simple.
I do not intend to start an open/closed source debate in this thread. Let’s keep it pyro’s choice.
Edit: and on the topic of thermal cutoffs, I will be kindly asking to have mine preloaded for a little higher temperature. I’m sure it’s simply a #define change or two.

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Pulsar
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will this driver be available to the community? dont think i have seen a definite answer...

was hoping that the SRK and SRM had the same driver, but no go. so im debating on buying a king, but only if i will be able to get one of these drivers for it

leaftye
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Pulsar wrote:

will this driver be available to the community? dont think i have seen a definite answer...

was hoping that the SRK and SRM had the same driver, but no go. so im debating on buying a king, but only if i will be able to get one of these drivers for it

We seem to think alike.

The low mode should be lower.

tabetha
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2 for me please, do you take bribes ?
Awsome work on your part, I’m at my limit putting batteries in let alone anything else ha ha!!
tabs

texaspyro
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Yes, the plans are to make it available. I’m pretty sure the cost will be $20 or less. I need to find out what an assembly house will charge to build them up. They have a pretty high setup charge for doing a run of boards. I also want to find out what the cost of the circuit board would be with hard gold on the back vs ENIG gold flash.

One thing is it will almost certainly be built as a 2.8A/LED driver. 380 mA regulator chips cost over twice what 350 mA chips cost (and there are 24 of them on the board). It is MUCH more cost effective to stack a single chip onto each section to get 3A if you really want it.

Source code will be open source…

Telman2
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texaspyro wrote:
Yes, the plans are to make it available.

Since you have now announced your intention to make them available you can put me down for 1.

You're never too old to learn something stupid.


leaftye
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You're a good man texaspyro.  You've made my day.

The low mode should be lower.

Tanner
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Yep, I would love to have one. I have a new SRK that needs some TLC.

Pulsar
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Ok that's good news. Guess I'll need to find one and order up tonight

DARCANGEL
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This is great to see that these drivers will be available.There is definite interest here,and I have to say the king's UI from the factory sucks and this would make me like it more.Thanks for the hard work on this Texaspyro and I can't wait till the drivers are available.

PilotPTK
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texaspyro wrote:
Yes, the plans are to make it available. I'm pretty sure the cost will be $20 or less. I need to find out what an assembly house will charge to build them up. They have a pretty high setup charge for doing a run of boards. I also want to find out what the cost of the circuit board would be with hard gold on the back vs ENIG gold flash. One thing is it will almost certainly be built as a 2.8A/LED driver. 380 mA regulator chips cost over twice what 350 mA chips cost (and there are 24 of them on the board). It is MUCH more cost effective to stack a single chip onto each section to get 3A if you really want it. Source code will be open source...

Let me know if you want us to quote it.  I get pretty good pricing on circuit boards because of the massive number of sq. inches per month we order.

PPtk

I am currently extremely busy with work. Please do not expect a response from me quickly. I will be dropping in as time permits, but the amount of time I can dedicate to responding to topics and PMs is very limited.

mattthemuppet
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texaspyro wrote:
Source code will be open source…

that is really cool, good on ya’. If there was a rep system here, that’d = lots of thumbs or green jellies. As it is, you’ll just have to make do with a thank you Smile

Pulsar
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mattthemuppet wrote:
texaspyro wrote:
Source code will be open source...
that is really cool, good on ya'. If there was a rep system here, that'd = lots of thumbs or green jellies. As it is, you'll just have to make do with a thank you :)

And a huge# of drivers sold 

JohnnyMac
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leaftye wrote:

You're a good man texaspyro.  You've made my day.

+1!  I'm still in for two when they are ready.
relic38
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Great work pyro! You are a gentleman and a scholar Beer
Looking forward to this one. Will you sell bare boards with programmed MCUs? I’d be fine with building my own up from there.
You’ve built one of the best drivers I haven’t seen yet, but I already want two. Big Smile

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reliant_turbo
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im in for 2

texaspyro
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I’ve changed the mode programming up a little. You still enter programming mode by holding the button down while powering up the light. It flashes 3 times. Let go of the button within one second and you are in programming mode like before.

If you keep holding the button it flashes four times… let go of it and it toggles mode memory on/off and resumes normal light operation.

If you keep holding the button and after another second and it flashes five times… let go of it and it toggles PWM slewing between modes on/off and resumes normal light operation.

I am looking into adding a temperature calibration option to the programming options. The temperature sensor on the processor is very precise, but not necessarily absolutely accurate. In fact, they say the readings can be offset +/- 10C between two chips (they are actually quite a bit better than that). The idea is to enter a temperature calibration routine that starts blinking the LEDs. You count the blinks and when the count reaches the actual temperature (1-99C) you press the button to store the real vs measured temperature offset. You could lie about the actual temperature… this would have the effect of shifting the temperature protection control points up or down.

toysareforboys
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texaspyro wrote:
I am looking into adding a temperature calibration option to the programming options. The temperature sensor on the processor is very precise, but not necessarily absolutely accurate. In fact, they say the readings can be offset +/- 10C between two chips (they are actually quite a bit better than that). The idea is to enter a temperature calibration routine that starts blinking the LEDs. You count the blinks and when the count reaches the actual temperature (1-99C) you press the button to store the real vs measured temperature offset. You could lie about the actual temperature… this would have the effect of shifting the temperature protection control points up or down.
That sounds perfect Big Smile

-Jamie M.

crinklecut
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Good work pyro, this got me to morph from a lurker to a member – put me down for one also please ;).

texaspyro
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I have the temperature calibration/fudging code working… anybody care to test just how good a rectal thermometer a SRK can be? J)

Stittville Ed
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Will you be providing a DVD on how to assembly and use all the functions of this driver Smile

Everything you have done so far is light years ahead of anything anyone has ever offered to us.

Thanks for all your work on this project.

crinklecut
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texaspyro wrote:
I have the temperature calibration/fudging code working… anybody care to test just how good a rectal thermometer a SRK can be? J)

Make sure that Lanyards attached Wink

Werner
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That sounds really good.

Aftrburnr
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Love anything LED in any kind of light, especially flashlights. I don’t know much if anything about modding, but would like to learn about all the different parts/components that make up an LED flashlight. Is there a FAQ or something to read here?

I would still be in for at least a couple reading about all the things this component can do & is capable of. Very nice work texaspyro!

comfychair
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Aftrburnr, see here: Flashlight Wiki

texaspyro
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OK, I went a little crazy… I added the ability to change the Morse code message without having to re-program the driver. Default is SOS. If you want it to send “FOR QUEUE” or any other message (up to 16 chars/60ish dots and dashes) you can now do it. It’s a kludge, it’s a pain, but you can do it.

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