Custom SkyRay King SRK Driver

311 posts / 0 new
Last post
PilotPTK
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 11 months ago
Joined: 09/04/2011 - 21:53
Posts: 1736
Location: Michigan, USA

1 Ohm is Wayyyy too high of a value for a current shunt.  If you push 3A through a 1 Ohm shunt, you'll burn off 3 Volts of the input.  A current shunt for the types of currents we're measuring should be more like .01 to .05 Ohms.

I am currently extremely busy with work. Please do not expect a response from me quickly. I will be dropping in as time permits, but the amount of time I can dedicate to responding to topics and PMs is very limited.

Sigurthr
Sigurthr's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 5 months ago
Joined: 07/13/2013 - 02:37
Posts: 16
Location: UP of MI, USA.

Yeah I know. It’s all I’ve got outside of the DMM though. I normally work with HV stuff so I haven’t had reason to get a precision milliohm sense resistor. Normally I’m measuring tens of amps at hundreds of volts, so burning a couple volts here and there isn’t of consequence.

Retesting with the DMM and not using the 4× 18650 battery compartment I’ve measured 2.8A on high with a single high drain cell. Unfortunately my bench supply is out for repairs and I don’t have anything to make battery connectors with so this is the extent of my testing on this. The 1.5mA parasitic measurement does appear to be consistent so far though.

HV, RF, Laser, and Light Enthusiast

PilotPTK
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 11 months ago
Joined: 09/04/2011 - 21:53
Posts: 1736
Location: Michigan, USA

Tens of amps (Say 30) burns even more voltage.. 30 Amps over 1 ohm drops 30 Volts!  And makes 900 WATTS of heat... A typical shunt for 30A would be about 3.3 MILLIOHMS, giving a drop of 100mV

I am currently extremely busy with work. Please do not expect a response from me quickly. I will be dropping in as time permits, but the amount of time I can dedicate to responding to topics and PMs is very limited.

Sigurthr
Sigurthr's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 5 months ago
Joined: 07/13/2013 - 02:37
Posts: 16
Location: UP of MI, USA.

Yep, and a 30V drop on a 600V line only 5%, but a 3V drop on a 4.2V line is a 70% loss. I normally use the resistor to scope the DC bus current and primary current of my solid state tesla coils, there the worst side effect is the slight de-Qing of the resonant circuit.

I rigged up a PD to check the PWM of low mode and it appears to be a 500uS pulse every 4.5mS, or roughly 10% duty at 222Hz.

HV, RF, Laser, and Light Enthusiast

relic38
relic38's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 years 3 weeks ago
Joined: 12/28/2012 - 00:39
Posts: 3390
Location: Toronto, Canada
PilotPTK wrote:

1.42mA parasitic current is actually pretty darn high.  That will essentially discharge a 2900mAh 18650 in 85 days.  In just a month, you’ll be down to 60% of the runtime you’d expect.

Don’t forget there are four cells in there, so it would take approx. 4 months to reach 60% on parasitic drain alone.
IMO that is acceptable, especially for a light with tailcap lockout. Could be better, but acceptable.

Welcome the night.

My Reviews   My Mods    http://budgetlightforum.com/search?

PilotPTK
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 11 months ago
Joined: 09/04/2011 - 21:53
Posts: 1736
Location: Michigan, USA

Ah yeah, forgot about the multi-cell thing.. Still awfully high though..

I am currently extremely busy with work. Please do not expect a response from me quickly. I will be dropping in as time permits, but the amount of time I can dedicate to responding to topics and PMs is very limited.

JayWallis
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 11 months ago
Joined: 07/24/2013 - 00:42
Posts: 18
Location: Horsham Australia

I joined up specifically because of this thread. I have been “collecting” lights for a while and have a SRK that I was going to program my own driver for. This beats what I was going to do hands down. I would just like to say congratulations to texaspyro for the work so far and to also say I will purchase 3 boards when they are ready. I have no problems with SMD soldering, electronics in general or microprocessor programming so if texaspyro is after a guinea pig for any beta testing I happily put my hand up, just ask.

Once again thanks texaspyro

tabetha
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 11 months ago
Joined: 11/25/2012 - 08:52
Posts: 300
Location: Norfolk England

I bow and salute you Sir TexasPyro,
Your effort and dedication to the cause has not gone unnoticed, I will be glad to put some extra moolah your way when ready,
tabs

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3767
Location: North Carolina

Any updates TexasPyro? I got a kung I want to try this driver in. This driver would be alot easier than wiring up 4 2800ma amc7135 drivers in there.

texaspyro
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 6 months ago
Joined: 04/29/2011 - 12:43
Posts: 4593
moderator007 wrote:
Any updates TexasPyro?

I made some tweaks to the board layout to make it easier to add a slave driver. Waiting on the prototype boards to come in…

nakamoomin
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 5 months ago
Joined: 08/29/2011 - 10:51
Posts: 3
Location: Norway

I’m definitely in for one!
I managed to toast one of the REGs when I disassembled (wire came loose, shorted the REG…).

I love what you are doing with this driver! The parasitic is awesome and the modes are as well.

However: is it possible to program this ourselves?
I ‘d really like a simple high/med/low/off or High/low/moon/off for regular use and then a Moon/strobe/SOS/ramp/etc etc for a second group.

texaspyro
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 6 months ago
Joined: 04/29/2011 - 12:43
Posts: 4593
nakamoomin wrote:
However: is it possible to program this ourselves? I ‘d really like a simple high/med/low/off or High/low/moon/off for regular use and then a Moon/strobe/SOS/ramp/etc etc for a second group.

You can program the modes that you want to use (in the order that you want to use them) along with several other options. Think of the default mode list as a menu of available modes (there’s a LOT of them). You enter programming mode by holding the button down while applying power to the light. Click to the first mode that you want to use and hold down the button for one second and that mode is stored. Lather, rinse, repeat…

The firmware does not support mode groups, though.

nakamoomin
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 5 months ago
Joined: 08/29/2011 - 10:51
Posts: 3
Location: Norway

OK, so I can program it on the UI! That’s sweet!

I was thinking of hooking it up to a computer to reprogram, but this is even better!
With this it’s possible to change the programming on the fly!

Awesome!

PS: now I’m in for TWO driver boards! Smile

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3767
Location: North Carolina
texaspyro wrote:
moderator007 wrote:
Any updates TexasPyro?

I made some tweaks to the board layout to make it easier to add a slave driver. Waiting on the prototype boards to come in…


I’m really hoping its up for release soon. I don’t really want to wire up 4 amc7135’s drivers in there. If I did I would want to wire them individually to each led. I was hoping you would save me from all that wiring. :bigsmile:
Komichi
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 5 months ago
Joined: 10/02/2011 - 16:36
Posts: 198
Location: USA

Do we need to get on a list? Pay in advance? Learn a secret handshake?
If I receive my two M6’s I’ll need pair of these.
Looking forward to moding my first flashlight.

B42
B42's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 1 week ago
Joined: 03/07/2013 - 21:03
Posts: 1876

TexasPyro, you should sell the lights with driver installed as a unit too: I know a few who would buy already.

toysareforboys
toysareforboys's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 3 months ago
Joined: 01/15/2012 - 02:03
Posts: 511
Location: Whitby, ON

B42 wrote:
TexasPyro, you should sell the lights with driver installed as a unit too: I know a few who would buy already.
I’d be all over that like a hobo on a ham sammich!

-Jamie M.

tabetha
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 11 months ago
Joined: 11/25/2012 - 08:52
Posts: 300
Location: Norfolk England

B42 wrote:
TexasPyro, you should sell the lights with driver installed as a unit too: I know a few who would buy already.
me too
Dave84
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 5 months ago
Joined: 08/19/2013 - 04:31
Posts: 1
Location: Massachusetts

Great job on the driver, count me in for 2 please. I joined particularly because of this thread, I’ve been buying lights for a couple months now and always come to BLF for reviews and recommendations. Once I saw this thread last week I had to get myself an SRK, actually I got a FandyFire UV-S5 from FT. I couldn’t be happier with the quality, the anodizing was perfect LED’s are centered, even has the 3 toroid driver, no PWM noise on low. I’m going to buy another when you make these available so I can mod both and have some back up drivers, you know, for the zombie apocalypse.

comfychair
comfychair's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 8 months ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 05:39
Posts: 6198

tp, do you think there would be any issues with tying all 3 channels together to run a single parallel array?

ImA4Wheelr
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 1 week ago
Joined: 02/03/2013 - 14:51
Posts: 7935
Location: SC

For the few that don't mind adding their own components, are you selling the bare circuit board yet?

texaspyro
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 6 months ago
Joined: 04/29/2011 - 12:43
Posts: 4593
comfychair wrote:

tp, do you think there would be any issues with tying all 3 channels together to run a single parallel array?

Should work fine…

RaceR86
RaceR86's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 10 months ago
Joined: 02/22/2012 - 08:32
Posts: 3777
Location: Norway

ImA4Wheelr wrote:

For the few that don't mind adding their own components, are you selling the bare circuit board yet?

Im curious about this too.

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

Fl37ch
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 9 months ago
Joined: 08/22/2013 - 21:08
Posts: 2
Location: Wales u.k

I’ve been looking for a driver board for my skyray king that came from china D.o.a
Dead on arrival searching for the last two days for driver and came across this website awesome
I don’t know a lot about Cree torchs but from reading the comments i will take 2 completed boards

guys could someone pm me where I can get a driver board that fits the sky ray king
Until these boards come available

ImA4Wheelr
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 1 week ago
Joined: 02/03/2013 - 14:51
Posts: 7935
Location: SC

Welcome to the forum F137. 

Maybe someone here will have one and contact you.  In the mean time, you could email some of the big discount vendors such as Walbuys, Fasttech, etc.  I'm sure they can get you one. Hopefully, at a low price.

If you're handy, you could fabricate a battery board out of that through-hole type of hobby board.  Use copper tape or solder copper sheet where the battery and body make contact with it.  On the other side, hook up a driver or drivers that use an electronic switch. 

EDIT: Or if you know how to wire 7135's directly, you could replace the momentary switch with an on-off type switch.  Then wire the right prong of the 7135's to the switch and the switch to positive on the batter board.  The back tabs of the 7135's could be soldered around the paremiter of the battery board for negative.  The left prong of the 7135's would feed the negative of the LED's.  The positive of the LED's wired directly to the positive of the battery board.  You will only have one level of brightness, but at least your light would be working.

Werner
Werner's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 3 months ago
Joined: 10/19/2012 - 15:00
Posts: 3679
Location: Germany

Maybe he could open a new thread to get hints to repair his stock driver…
I guess if its DOA it’s just a connection problem somewhere…

Fl37ch
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 9 months ago
Joined: 08/22/2013 - 21:08
Posts: 2
Location: Wales u.k

Thanks for the hints and tips I’m a complete noob at the moment i think it’s best if I purchase a board and do some more reading on this forum

I’m waiting for a reply from the websites in your post And Dx /banggood
I’ve had no luck with contacting the seller in china for a new Circuit driver

Sorry guys didn’t mean to nor did I intend to hijack the the thread.

Thanks

ImA4Wheelr
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 1 week ago
Joined: 02/03/2013 - 14:51
Posts: 7935
Location: SC

Sounds good F137.  Don't be shy about starting a thread to fix your light.  There may be folks here that have had the same exact problem that might be able to help you out.

In case you don't know, the driver is kind of hard to get out of most SRK's.  Most folks have to heat up the head bit and even then it can be hard to press out.  I take it you know how to solder.  Anyway, if you have questions, start a separate thread like Werner suggested.  Or find a thread with a lot of that type of discussion in it.  Best of luck.

RaceR86
RaceR86's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 10 months ago
Joined: 02/22/2012 - 08:32
Posts: 3777
Location: Norway

Hows it going with this driver texaspyro?

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

FlashPilot
FlashPilot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 17 min ago
Joined: 05/10/2010 - 16:07
Posts: 4829
Location: USA

TP, any updates?

Pages