Poorly performing FandyFire STL-V6

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ohaya
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Poorly performing FandyFire STL-V6

Hi,

I just got a FandyFire STL-V6 (from Wallbuys) late last week, and while it seems that this is an older light, I had great expectations for it as far as throw and lux. I had posted in an older thread about it, but I thought that I’d start a newer thread to try to address primarily the performance problem.

There is a “functional” oddity with the STL-V6 that I got, i.e., I can’t get it to switch into the 3-mode group, and between that and the disappointing lux numbers, I’m starting to suspect that maybe there’s something different (and worse) about my STL-V6 vs. the ones that others got before.

I’ve been doing lux measurements, at 4.3 meters, and the numbers I’m getting are 1/2 or less than those that I get for an HD2010 (with the original EAST-092/direct drive driver). For all of the tests that I’ve done with the STL-V6, with different batteries, including pairs of fairly new, freshly charged Efest IMR batteries (4.20V), are coming in around the 1500 lux ( 4.3 meters) range.

So, I was wondering, if anyone has an STL-V6, could you tell me if the driver board on yours at least looks like mine:

Thanks,
Jim

P.S. The mode group thing also is bothering me, so if anyone has any ideas about that, please let me know?

Edit: BTW, can anyone tell me how to convert that 4.3 meter lux reading to 1 meter lux reading?

Edited by: ohaya on 06/02/2013 - 22:30
Slewflash
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Up at the end of the tube (closest to the head) you just tighten and loosen it slightly and you can change between 3 and 5 mode. Meaning the joint connecting the tube with the head essentially.
Tighten for 3 mode, loosen for 5 mode.

Slewflash 

ohaya
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Slewflash wrote:
Up at the end of the tube (closest to the head) you just tighten and loosen it slightly and you can change between 3 and 5 mode. Meaning the joint connecting the tube with the head essentially. Tighten for 3 mode, loosen for 5 mode.

Thanks for posting!

I’ve tried that, multiple times, even with nitrile gloves (for better grip), and it’s not changing groups.

I just found this:

http://www.forolinternas.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3745&view=next

I think that the thread is about the same light, albeit in 2011, but in the 3rd picture in post #3, there’s a picture of the driver end of the pill, and that looks different than the pic that I posted :(… which might explain both the bad performance and the lack of mode groups.

Does anyone here still have one of these lights? Can you check how your light/driver end looks, compared to the pic that I posted?

Thanks,
Jim

ohaya
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Hi,

Hmm. I just found this thread:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/11061

In post #10, “willie” said:

Quote:
Actually they are not identical. Skyray/Fandyfire uses a 3/5 mode diver that delivers 3A on high. My Marsfire was a measly 1.5A w/5 mode driver.

I had measured tailcap current on my STL-V6, and I’m also only getting slightly more than 1.5 amps (with 2 × 18650), so it almost sounds like I got a FandyFire STL-V6 but with a MarsFire driver (my light only does 5 modes).

Slewflash
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That might be true…

Also, I can’t take the retaining ring off my tail cap right now because I can’t find my tweezers. But mine does have 3/5mode and 3A high.

Slewflash 

ohaya
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Slewflash wrote:
That might be true…

Also, I can’t take the retaining ring off my tail cap right now because I can’t find my tweezers. But mine does have 3/5mode and 3A high.

slewflash,

Thanks for responding and your help!

Can you tell me approximately how long ago you bought your STL-V6? And, also, from where?

FYI, I just wrote an email to Wallbuys explaining what I’m finding.

Please advise, and, again, thanks!

Jim

Slewflash
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I bought it close to a year ago off aliexpress. I can’t remember the seller but I remember it had a picture of a native american shadow type thing.

Slewflash 

ohaya
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Slewflash wrote:
That might be true…

Also, I can’t take the retaining ring off my tail cap right now because I can’t find my tweezers. But mine does have 3/5mode and 3A high.

slewflash,

BTW, the picture I posted, and what I’m asking to compare, is not in the tailcap.

Rather, it’s the spring-side of the driver, inside the head. So, you just have to unscrew the body from the head, and look at the spring side and compare that to the picture that I posted in the OP.

Pls advise.

Thanks again!

Jim

Slewflash
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Woops, will check now. I was wondering why you’d have a picture of the tailcap… LOL

Slewflash 

Tom E
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4.3 squared = 18.49, 18.49 * 1500 = 27,735 candela, or 27.7 kcd. Formula is distance squared times the lux meter reading.

 Yes - that is disappointing in throw, but if you are reading 1.5A, then you effectively get 3 amps to the LED. Batteries are in series so the voltage doubles. dunno, maybe something weird with te driver or major problem with the emitter.

ohaya
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Tom E wrote:

4.3 squared = 18.49, 18.49 * 1500 = 27,735 candela, or 27.7 kcd. Formula is distance squared times the lux meter reading.

 Yes – that is disappointing in throw, but if you are reading 1.5A, then you effectively get 3 amps to the LED. Batteries are in series so the voltage doubles. dunno, maybe something weird with te driver or major problem with the emitter.

Hi Tom,

Ok, thanks for the formula!

I’m curious to see what slewflash finds when he compares what I have vs. his STL-V6. There’s a pic of “the” STL-V6 on the thread I linked earlier, and it had a pic of the STL-V6 driver which was different than the one I posted in the OP.

I’m hoping slewflash’s looks like the one on that other thread :)… that would be definitive that the light I have has “the wrong” driver…

Jim

ohaya
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Slightly off-topic question: I’ve seen comments that the STL-V6 can be turned into a 1×18650 light, by using a C8 body. I have a bunch of C8s, from different places, but none of my C8 bodies fit the STL-V6 head, because the C8 bodies are much smaller diameter?

Was it only certain C8s worked with the STL-V6 head?

Slewflash
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Mine looks different to yours, the picture is here. I’m not going to embed it since the picture is quite large.

Just an FYI, mine was branded SkyRay STL-V2, but they should be the same as the FandyFires.

Slewflash 

ohaya
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Slewflash wrote:
Mine looks different to yours, the picture is here. I’m not going to embed it since the picture is quite large.

Just an FYI, mine was branded SkyRay STL-V2, but they should be the same as the FandyFires.

GREAT!! Thanks! As I said, I think that this is pretty definite “proof” that the STL-V6 that I have has “an incorrect” driver…

slewflash, thanks a LOT for your help! This has been driving me nuts all weekend, and my hands are still sore from trying to tighten the body ojn that light :)!

Jim

Edit: BTW, your picture looks similar/the same as the 3rd picture in the OP in this thread:

http://www.forolinternas.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3745&view=next

which is, apparently, “the real” STL-V6 driver.

Slewflash
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No problem!

Slewflash 

relic38
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ohaya, I’m pretty sure yours is not the 3/5 mode version. If you look at the driver end, it does not have the means to detect the tightening/loosening action. On the STL-V2 there is an isolated ring on the driver, which makes contact with the body when tightened. That is how it chooses the groups.
Yours looks like a TR-3T6 style head, not groups.
Also, the throw numbers you are getting may be disappointing, but they are pretty much right on for a stock TR-3T6 style light (mine came driven at 1.5A on 3×18650 too). Throw was in that ballpark as well, until I modded it. It’s somewhere in the 35-40k range now.
Based on what you have in hand (not what you expected), the light seems to be working as it should.
Does it need a mod? Hell yes! Wink

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fishmaniac
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And going backwards with regards to flashlight release dates can be underwhelming. I got a skyray triple 2 × 18650 after I had already got used to a(n) SRK. The driver on the triple is showing close to 4A but it pales in comparison to the king. That said, its still a nice light.

ohaya
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relic38 wrote:
ohaya, I’m pretty sure yours is not the 3/5 mode version. If you look at the driver end, it does not have the means to detect the tightening/loosening action. On the STL-V2 there is an isolated ring on the driver, which makes contact with the body when tightened. That is how it chooses the groups. Yours looks like a TR-3T6 style head, not groups. Also, the throw numbers you are getting may be disappointing, but they are pretty much right on for a stock TR-3T6 style light (mine came driven at 1.5A on 3×18650 too). Throw was in that ballpark as well, until I modded it. It’s somewhere in the 35-40k range now. Based on what you have in hand (not what you expected), the light seems to be working as it should. Does it need a mod? Hell yes! Wink

relic,

Thanks for that info, but I bought a FandyFire STL-V6 from Wallbuys:

http://wallbuys.com/Product/FandyFire-STL-V6-CREE-XM-L-T6-975Lumen-2-Group-White-LED-Flashlight-with-Strap2×18650-3×16340-3×123A—7471

and, while I may be being naive, or stubborn, or both :), I expected to receive a FandyFire STL-V6, with “2 group”, and not a TR-3T6.

BTW, I just checked, and isn’t the TR-3T6 a triple emitter light? The one I have has only 1 emitter. Also, the one I have only has room for 2 × 18650, not 3 × 18650.

I’ve gotten some response from Cherry at Wallbuys, and am trying to see how they can resolve this (hopefully with a real STL-V6), and the info that yourself and slewflash will be helpful with that, I think.

Thanks,
Jim

ohaya
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Hi slewflash, relic, et al,

I wanted to be clear that (1) I appreciated your help with this issue very much and (2) I am not just disregarding what you said, but as I said, I feel that Wallbuys describes the light on their website with the mode groups, etc., and I feel that they should provide what they describe.

Again, thanks for all of your help!

Jim

P.S. FYI, Cherry has requested a video demonstrating the problems with this light, which I’ve made and provided a link to the video to her (it was too large to email), so hopefully, with that, plus the emails, and the info in this thread, which I referenced with her, she has all of the info that she needs to resolve this problem.

fishmaniac
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If you’re supposed to have a 2 group driver but don’t….then I don’t see how they wouldn’t help ya out!

Good luck!

ohaya
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fishmaniac wrote:
If you’re supposed to have a 2 group driver but don’t….then I don’t see how they wouldn’t help ya out!

Good luck!

I agree :)!!

Thanks,
Jim

ohaya
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Hi,

So, BTW, does anyone have any idea WHAT the driver that’s in this STL-V6 is?

This thread:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/3700

is about the 3T6, and the driver, or at least what I can see of it, doesn’t look like the one on that thread?

Jim

PyTech
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*******

Quote:

relic,

Thanks for that info, but I bought a FandyFire STL-V6 from Wallbuys:

http://wallbuys.com/Product/FandyFire-STL-V6-CREE-XM-L-T6-975Lumen-2-Group-White-LED-Flashlight-with-Strap2×18650-3×16340-3×123A—7471

and, while I may be being naive, or stubborn, or both :), I expected to receive a FandyFire STL-V6, with “2 group”, and not a TR-3T6.

BTW, I just checked, and isn’t the TR-3T6 a triple emitter light? The one I have has only 1 emitter. Also, the one I have only has room for 2 × 18650, not 3 × 18650.

I’ve gotten some response from Cherry at Wallbuys, and am trying to see how they can resolve this (hopefully with a real STL-V6), and the info that yourself and slewflash will be helpful with that, I think.

Thanks,
Jim


was that the $15. one from that sale?

-Sean

relic38
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Sorry ohaya, totally crossed up my wires there. The pic of the driver looked a lot like a TR-3T6.
I totally agree now, you ordered an STL-V6, you should get one. It is even in the description.
I shut up now. Big Smile

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gords1001
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the main difference is the emitter mounting you mentioned elsewhere, on the stl v6 the emitter is mounted on sn alu disk held down with two screws, not a screw in brass pill.

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I got my STL-V6 from Wallbuys today (along with some other stuff from them)

Driver circuit is not as pictures in OP.
Group changing works..
Tail cap reading is 1,37 with two NCR18650B @ 3,97V.

I will get back to it later, or tomorrow. But so far, cant complain on that..
It is a Chinese light we are talking about….

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ohaya
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RaceR86 wrote:
I got my STL-V6 from Wallbuys today (along with some other stuff from them)

Driver circuit is not as pictures in OP.
Group changing works..
Tail cap reading is 1,37 with two NCR18650B @ 3,97V.

I will get back to it later, or tomorrow. But so far, cant complain on that..
It is a Chinese light we are talking about….

RaceR86,

Thanks for that info, including the tailcap reading! That kind of re-confirms that the driver in the STL-V6 I got is wrong, or, at least different.

Cherry requested a video, which I supplied to them, and she said that they are now checking with their supplier.

Since you got a “correctly” working one, I think that they’ll come back and say that something’s messed up with mine :)…

BTW, I had mentioned earlier, that this light supposedly works with a C8 body, but the C8s that I’ve tried, the body is smaller diameter where it would screw into the head. Anyone know if it’s only specific C8s that are suppose to work?

Later,
Jim

ohaya
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PyTech wrote:
*******
Quote:

relic,

Thanks for that info, but I bought a FandyFire STL-V6 from Wallbuys:

http://wallbuys.com/Product/FandyFire-STL-V6-CREE-XM-L-T6-975Lumen-2-Group-White-LED-Flashlight-with-Strap2×18650-3×16340-3×123A—7471

and, while I may be being naive, or stubborn, or both :), I expected to receive a FandyFire STL-V6, with “2 group”, and not a TR-3T6.

BTW, I just checked, and isn’t the TR-3T6 a triple emitter light? The one I have has only 1 emitter. Also, the one I have only has room for 2 × 18650, not 3 × 18650.

I’ve gotten some response from Cherry at Wallbuys, and am trying to see how they can resolve this (hopefully with a real STL-V6), and the info that yourself and slewflash will be helpful with that, I think.

Thanks,
Jim


was that the $15. one from that sale?

It was from the 1st instant kill. I think it was like $18+?

ohaya
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ohaya wrote:
RaceR86 wrote:
I got my STL-V6 from Wallbuys today (along with some other stuff from them)

Driver circuit is not as pictures in OP.
Group changing works..
Tail cap reading is 1,37 with two NCR18650B @ 3,97V.

I will get back to it later, or tomorrow. But so far, cant complain on that..
It is a Chinese light we are talking about….

RaceR86,

Thanks for that info, including the tailcap reading! That kind of re-confirms that the driver in the STL-V6 I got is wrong, or, at least different.

Cherry requested a video, which I supplied to them, and she said that they are now checking with their supplier.

Since you got a “correctly” working one, I think that they’ll come back and say that something’s messed up with mine :)…

BTW, I had mentioned earlier, that this light supposedly works with a C8 body, but the C8s that I’ve tried, the body is smaller diameter where it would screw into the head. Anyone know if it’s only specific C8s that are suppose to work?

Later,
Jim

RaceR86,

BTW, do you happen to have lux meter? If so, have you measured lux for the STL-V6 that you got?

I mentioned earlier that I was getting about 1500 lux @ 4.3 meters, and also found this:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/3529

In the OP of that thread, “2100” said:

Quote:
Lux reading : 690 lux 8.17m, 46k lux 1m.

so I am curious what I might get when Wallbuys figures out what’s going on with my STL-V6 :)…

ohaya
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For the record, I wanted to record how this situation is apparently ending up.

Basically Wallbuys has admitted that the STL-V6 that I have does not have mode groups, and, actually, they are saying that ALL of the FandyFire STL-V6s that they have or get from their “supplier” don’t have mode groups. They also have said that all of the drivers in all of the STL-V6s that they shipped or ship have the same driver.

This is despite my referencing the various posts in this thread indicating that some people got STL-V6s from Wallbuys with mode group, and, more importantly better lux performance, and, also with the apparently “correct” driver.

So, basically, I am now stuck with a FandyFire STL-V6 that doesn’t appear to be, or function like, a FandyFire STL-V6. You know the old saying about “If it looks like a duck, etc….” :(.

As I mentioned to them in my email to them, I now understand the frustration that some others have described trying to deal with Wallbuys.

Later,
Jim

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I have a KD C8 body screwed into my FF STL-v6 now. Works fine.

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