Post your MT-G2 driver results here.

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MRsDNF
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Post your MT-G2 driver results here.

I haven’t seen a thread on driver results for MTG-2 so thought if people could post there results here it would be easy to find. EDIT. lt has been pointed out to me by a kind member here that I have been calling the MT-G2 incorrectly. I have been calling it MTG-2. I apologise for any inconvenience I have caused anyone and changed the thread name to the correct title. Quick reference guide.

IOS 3 mode 5amp Boost/Buck 3-18V Triple XM-L Driver

Garden variety 8×7135 Nanjg 105C

Manafont 3T6 driver

LusteFire 3XU2-X3

DUP-S5

FL-2

RaceR86 Driver circuit from my STL-V6, which was the same as in my TR-3T6

IOS 3 mode 5amp Boost/Buck 3-18V Triple XM-L Driver

IOS 3 mode 5amp Boost/Buck 3-18V Triple XM-L Driver resistor mod

Dry driver DD on high

14 × 7135’s

Modded Q-Lite 3.04A driver with 4 chips stacked and read on.

Resistor mod on DST stock driver.

Direct drive off 2S 18650 gives 5A

Lck Led, Constant Current LED Driver Board – 3 Modes, 5.5-12V 3.0A.

Nanjg 105c from FT and 8 extra 380 mA chips with zener/resistor mod.

Zener modded Qlite driver with 12×380mA 7135 in C12 host

Trustfire J19 stock driver in ZY-T08

TrustFire X7 SST-50 – now with MT-G2 upgrade

C12 + MT-G2 + Qlite 105c modified for higher voltage (zener diode mod) with 4 extra 380mA 7135s = Lotsa Fun

RMM Dry driver.

HX-1175b See post below as well.

Zener/resistor moded NANJG105c with replaced NANJG MCU with Qlite MCU, 12 x AMC7135 350mA + 2x AMC7135 380ma giving 5 amps

The DQG Tiny 26650 single cell boost driver

Zener modded BLF17DD off 2x samsung 25R’s

Nanjg 105c from FT and 8 extra 380 mA chips with zener/resistor mod

Mattaus designed driver for “D” Maglites, based on the 105C style linear driver with zener mod. 7.5 amps.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/33482

Some odd test results of HX1175B and MT-G2

Dipper D19 RNX-2.8A

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Edited by: MRsDNF on 10/26/2014 - 15:14
MRsDNF
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I’II start off with a quick and dirty on the IOS 3 mode driver.
Using two King Kongs with a combined voltage off 4.05 volts, the following current measurements were taken at the led.
Low .08 amps.
Med .7 amps.
High 2.88 amps.

Edit. It was asked if I could measure this driver running 3 26650’s off which I thought would make no difference. Surprisingly there is. Why I have no idea. 3 x Trustfire protected 26650 measuring 12.2 volts.
Low .09 amps.
med .84 amps.
High 3.6 amps.

Used in this light.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

comfychair
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Garden variety 8x7135 Nanjg 105C with mods for higher input voltage, 2x 18650 in series.

low .08A
med .66A
high 1.65A

Been running perfect for several weeks now, used fairly often. I can't explain why '3 amps' isn't still '3 amps' when it's connected to a 6v LED, but it does the correct 3A when running a plain XML, and goes back to 1.6A when put back with the MTG2.

100 ohm resistor replaces the polarity protection diode:

zener diode across the capacitor on the battery side:

It's in a cheap 501b P60 with two battery tubes joined inline.

----------

Stock driver in the Solarforce S1100 drives the MTG2 at 3.3A with zero mods.

MRsDNF
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3 × 26650 results on IOS driver added here.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

18sixfifty
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Thanks for starting this thread. I’ll be checking it out quite a bit. I think my next project will be with an MT-G2 but not until I know what drivers really work the best or at least the best for a decent price.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

ImA4Wheelr
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I’m cheap. Manafont 3T6 driver gives an honest 4 to 4.5 amps at the led with 2S NCR18650A’s at 4.17volts. 5 modes with blinkies, but good memory.

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/flashlight-component-triple-t6-...

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/20738#comment-375427

Also been playing with direct AMC7135’s using 6 4/3 Ni-mh’s. No MCU, just 2 switches to turn on banks of chips. Provides 4 levels of brightness. Both switches off 1 chip, first switch on 5 chips, second switch on 11 chips, both switches on 15 chips. Haven’t tested current yet. Just seen it work in my spotlight. Won’t get around to finishing build for awhile. Too many things going on this time of year.

comfychair
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:
I'm cheap. Manafont 3T6 driver gives an honest 4 to 4.5 amps at the led with 2S NCR18650A's at 4.17volts. 5 modes with blinkies, but good memory. Also been playing with direct AMC7135's using 6 4/3 Ni-mh's. No MCU, just 2 switches to turn on banks of chips. Provides 4 levels of brightness. Both switches off 1 chip, first switch on 5 chips, second switch on 11 chips, both switches on 15 chips. Haven't tested current yet. Just seen it work in my spotlight. Won't get around to finishing build for awhile. Too many things going on this time of year.

Really curious what you'll find re: current measurements. Mine doing right at half the rated current has me completely baffled. :~

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Thanks ImA4Wheelr. Would you like to add a link for the MF driver in your post and I will collate all the posts with drivers in them in the original post. Now I know why people book the first post. Cheers.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

ImA4Wheelr
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Done. Thank you.

relic38
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The driver from my LusteFire 3XU2-X3 triple MT-G2 modded light will pump about 2.8A into each emitter (parallel, ~8.4A total) in stock form. Better add some heatsinking to the driver though, as it gets hot quick, especially the FET and diode (big black parts). On this light, I get about 4800lm OTF. Not bad, but I want a driver that can actually drive 5A/emitter for a minute or two, and handle 3A/emitter for at least 10 minutes.
Most likely wishful thinking, but I gotta dream a little. Wink

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Great Idea!

Here are some results from me. All measured at the emitter.

Power supply was used. Voltage reading is analog, so it may not be 100% spot on..
My power supply is rated for “4A max at 5V” and “3A at @12V”. That could be an issue. But it did not seem to have issues (cut-off happens it it have issues).
Both 5A drivers are rated to be 100% -50% – 5%

DUP-S5
My driver had SOS in between low and medium. :Sp (not as described)

12V
0,49
SOS= full (high) output
2,44
4,88

9V
0,48
2,45
4,05

7,5V
0,16
1,15
2,78

6V
0,04
0,18
0,44

I could mention that with an XM-L2 on copper, it was spot on 5A, 2,5A 0,5A when I tested it some time back @ 7,5V. At lower/higher driver circuit input voltage it was slightly off, mostly lower, but also slightly higher than 5A was seen too.

FL-2
(mine had strobe and SOS with full output. It was supposed to be a 3-mode, which others have gotten. Readings only show low, medium and high)
12V
0,47
2,43
4,9

9V
0,44
2,52
4,06

7,5V
0,15
0,81
2,39

6,5++V (hard to see, I did not measure. Analog reading only shows 6V and 7,5V. )
0,05
0,30
0,89

6V, did not work properly

Driver circuit from my STL-V6, which was the same as in my TR-3T6.
This driver circuit also have sos and strobe.

12V
0,23
1,10
2,58

9V
0,25
1,16
2,72

7,5V
0,12
0,79
2,04

6V
0,02
0,10
0,29

BOOST/BUCK 3-18V TRIPLE XM-L CIRCUIT BOARD
15V
0,08
0,94
4,00

12V
0,09
0,89
3,74

9V
0,08
0,77
3,27

7,5V
0,06
0,65
2,81

close to 7V (estimate due to analog reading)
0,05
0,59
2,61

6V (did not work properly)

If my power supply did not limit some of these results, then it clearly shows the importance of using 3 batteries if (sustained) high output (3+A) is the goal on an MT-G2. I don’t think my powersupply had issues with the short periods it was used on high with the 5A drivers. My 12V numbers on the IOS 3-18V driver are very similar with MRsDNF measurements with batteries having a resting voltage at 12,2 which would probably be around 11,7 at load. Our numbers match very nicely..

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MRsDNF
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Thanks Guys. Keep it up. Fantastic info RaceR86. The measurements from the 3 to 18 volt driver are not that different. Taking into account voltage sag from my batteries I’d suggest they would be very close. Links to your results have been added into the original post.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

RaceR86
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Yupp. The results are basically the same.
Its the “IOS 3 mode 3-18V driver” I used.. Maybe you should just call it that since both you and I have tested it but calling it different names (Im thinking about the description in OP.)
I just used the product descrption from the IOS webpage.

I know Relic38 have resistor modded that driver in this thread and used it in combination with MT-G2.

The MF driver is also easy to resistor mod.. 0:)

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MRsDNF
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Done. The only problem with the MF driver is my lack off love for flashy modes. I’ll add the resistor mod in as well.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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I shared a build with relic38 using a DRY driver in a Trustfire X8 clone. The reason being the X8 has 19/20mm driver groove, and the clone has a 22/23mm driver groove on the first step and and 19mm groove underneath. Of course the DRY specs are:

PCB diameter: 23MM

for 3*CREE XM-L T6 LED in series.

Input voltage:7.4V~12.8V

4 modes:

Lo——0.1A

Mid—0.5A

Hi-2.25A

Turbo—Direct Drive Max 4~5A; Turbo mode will step down to Hi mode after 120 secs in order to protect driver and emitter from burning.

With mode memory

Using turbo is DD, and the actual output depends on the cells and what they can deliver, ruff estimate 7.4 volts to the emitter, and ruffly 4 to 5 amps. relic said it got 2000 otf lumens, relic can post results here: The DRY works well and is only $5…

Using this host:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121021214397?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3...

The complete build was:

Host: $19.80

Emitter: IO $21.85

Driver: CNQG $5.00

took only about 15 minutes, basically just an emitter/driver swap…

Flomotion

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Flomotion’s numbers match mine fairly closely. Using Sanyo UR18650ZT cells, I get right around 5A on turbo and just over 2000lm OTF. It is advisable to leave some resistance in the light, although I’m pretty sure I addressed all areas J) (springs, wires). I used a Noctigon, which is highly recommended.
Not bad for a two-cell light this small.

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bdiddle
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Flomotion, how is the beam with that X8 clone? All flood I am assuming? More throw than an XML P60?

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The IOS 9A driver does 5 amps from two 18650, and an honest-to-god 9A from three. I was not expecting that. Shocked

bdiddle
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comfychair wrote:

The IOS 9A driver does 5 amps from two 18650, and an honest-to-god 9A from three. I was not expecting that. Shocked

So…..how bright at 9 amps?

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bdiddle wrote:
Flomotion, how is the beam with that X8 clone? All flood I am assuming? More throw than an XML P60?

The beam is somewhat floody with a very large hotspot. On mine there is a slight ring around the hotspot, but only noticeable when white wall hunting. Outdoors, this is a very nice flood light, that can throw pretty god too. I didn’t measure throw yet though.
Flomotion has a build thread somewhere. I Probably should have answered this question there. Wink

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bdiddle wrote:
comfychair wrote:

The IOS 9A driver does 5 amps from two 18650, and an honest-to-god 9A from three. I was not expecting that. Shocked

So.....how bright at 9 amps?

Finally, 9 amps (4000 lm?), I demand that! What 3x18650 (3 x26650) single emitter host fits that driver? 

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djozz wrote:
Finally, 9 amps (4000 lm?), I demand that! What 3x18650 (3 x26650) single emitter host fits that driver?

Trustfire TR-1200, relevant info starts here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/21921#comment-411218

----------

 

Tailcap numbers for the IOS 9A driver

2x 18650
low .55A
mid 1.95A
high 4.85A

3x 18650
low 1.06A
mid 3.05A
high 6.57A

Driver makes a pretty wicked squeeeeeee on mid & low with every battery config I've thrown at it (including CR123s).

FlashPilot
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comfychair wrote:

The IOS 9A driver does 5 amps from two 18650, and an honest-to-god 9A from three. I was not expecting that. Shocked

So in simple terms, the emitter is driven to around 100W on 3 cells? :bigsmile: :bigsmile:

bdiddle
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Its closer to 80 watts at the tailcap…..so less than that at the emitter

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FlashPilot
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Even if the cells sagged to 4V each at turn-on, that would still be 12V * 9A at the tailcap = 108W before driver losses to the emitter. Either way, this is beginning to sound very interesting!

bdiddle
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comfychair wrote:

djozz wrote:
Finally, 9 amps (4000 lm?), I demand that! What 3×18650 (3 ×26650) single emitter host fits that driver?

Trustfire TR-1200, relevant info starts here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/21921#comment-411218

—————

 

Tailcap numbers for the IOS 9A driver

2× 18650
low .55A
mid 1.95A
high 4.85A

3× 18650
low 1.06A
mid 3.05A
high 6.57A

Driver makes a pretty wicked squeeeeeee on mid & low with every battery config I’ve thrown at it (including CR123s).

Tailcap is not 9 amps though :bigsmile:

Newb

FlashPilot
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comfychair wrote:

The IOS 9A driver does 5 amps from two 18650, and an honest-to-god 9A from three. I was not expecting that. Shocked

Sorry, I saw this and assumed 108W at the tail… now I see the other posts. Thanks!:bigsmile:

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relic38 wrote:
bdiddle wrote:
Flomotion, how is the beam with that X8 clone? All flood I am assuming? More throw than an XML P60?
The beam is somewhat floody with a very large hotspot. On mine there is a slight ring around the hotspot, but only noticeable when white wall hunting. Outdoors, this is a very nice flood light, that can throw pretty god too. I didn’t measure throw yet though. Flomotion has a build thread somewhere. I Probably should have answered this question there. Wink

This build is very dependent on the cells that are used, the better the cells, the better the light runs. Now the host is a cheapie, but does have more mass and size in the pill area than the “real” Trustfire X8. I real X8 pill module is not big enough for the DRY driver, so that option is out. The DRY will take 3 cells (don’t try it, will fry the emitter), and I noticed that people were posting using 3 cells on the IOS driver, so the DRY ought to be similar on three cells in series (definitely a NO, NO). I have not done that(Good Thing). Thanks for having my back relic, on this, he is much better at posting than I, but we did get similar results on the same build. I was really amazed at the build, the idea being, the the MT-G2 is very floody by nature, so I wanted a deep reflector and fairly narrow beam to contain the floodiness, and the idea worked. There is still plenty of spill in this built, but the hotspot is well contained: but quite large. There does seem to be some interesting chromatics in this build, variations of tints of yellow and white, but rather interesting than annoying. Relic can do better on the measurements of throw, but I was impressed at the throw for just 2 cells. The torch is gobbling every electron you give it, so like relic indicates: it is a very small light pumping Boo Coo amps, but seems to handle the thermals, and the MT is demanding everything from the cells, so it does get warm quickly. With the final drive being Turbo or DD, I would guess that counting efficiency and points of resistance, this is about as much light as one could expect from a torch this size at the present without things starting to go into thermal/electric failure…just my view, relic is free to add his view…, remember this is a bottom of the barrel — budget build, for this powerful of a light…at this time…

Flomotion

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Flomotion wrote:
The DRY will take 3 cells, and I noticed that people were posting using 3 cells on the IO driver, so the DRY ought to be similar on three cells in series. I have not done that.

A word of caution. Do NOT use the DRY driver to drive one MT-G2 from three cells in series. The emitter will die a quick death. Quick, as in you will not get a chance to turn it off.
The IO driver is a buck driver, so it will convert the power from a 12V/1.5A level down to 6V/3A level (halves the voltage, doubles the current) in order to keep the current in check.

The other points you make are in line with my findings so far. I’m charging my Sanyo cells right now and will test output again for documenting purposes.
For about $45, this is the lowest cost and simplest MT-G2 mod I’ve seen yet. The ZY-T08 mod was more expensive (could have used a DRY driver there). It was also more work, however if it had actually worked from a 2P configuration, it would have been easy.

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Flomotion
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relic38 wrote:
Flomotion wrote:
The DRY will take 3 cells, and I noticed that people were posting using 3 cells on the IO driver, so the DRY ought to be similar on three cells in series. I have not done that.

A word of caution. Do NOT use the DRY driver to drive one MT-G2 from three cells in series. The emitter will die a quick death. Quick, as in you will not get a chance to turn it off.
The IO driver is a buck driver, so it will convert the power from a 12V/1.5A level down to 6V/3A level (halves the voltage, doubles the current) in order to keep the current in check.

That is what I thought, thanks for having my back, again, relic…

Flomotion

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OK, here are some results using fresh Sanyo ZTs charged to 4.3V
Drive current: 4.7A
Total output: 2238lm at start, 2045lm after 30 seconds (mostly battery sag, power supply shows much ‘sturdier’ output)
Throw: 19.2kcd after 30s
So it’s not bad. Would like to have a regulated boost driver to keep them lumens going steady, but you would need IMR cells for that (battery current would go over 2C as the cell drain).
You can get away with regular 2600mAh+ cells with this setup.

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