I'm shocked by this Shocker... (de-domed now, more info)

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tkmckay
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All of these threads on modded BTU’s are really making me want to send out mine or order a new one for moding by one of the amazing talents on this forum! Tom, amazing work as always sir! Shocked

blueb8llz
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tkmckay wrote:
All of these threads on modded BTU’s are really making me want to send out mine or order a new one for moding by one of the amazing talents on this forum! Tom, amazing work as always sir! Shocked

i feel you on that. the worst part is, i dont even own a btu to begin with.
but am seriously thinking of getting one now!

jmpaul320
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everyone needs to own one of these, whether its the stock form, dry driver, tom e upgraded model etc… a great light, proper heatsinking and it doubles as a beating stick if needed because its large.

and the modded tom e version costs about as much as a new tk75 and is better Smile

i guess better is a subjective term and i will catch flak from the tk75 lovers… hey! if you have any doubts just buy both LOL

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

manxbuggy1
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jmpaul320 wrote:
everyone needs to own one of these, whether its the stock form, dry driver, tom e upgraded model etc… a great light, proper heatsinking and it doubles as a beating stick if needed because its large.

and the modded tom e version costs about as much as a new tk75 and is better Smile

i guess better is a subjective term and i will catch flak from the tk75 lovers… hey! if you have any doubts just buy both LOL

I have a TK75 which I am very fond of but I also know what Tom can do with a shocker so I totally understand what you are saying. I took your advice anyway and got me a shocker too!
blueb8llz
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manxbuggy1 wrote:
jmpaul320 wrote:
everyone needs to own one of these, whether its the stock form, dry driver, tom e upgraded model etc… a great light, proper heatsinking and it doubles as a beating stick if needed because its large.

and the modded tom e version costs about as much as a new tk75 and is better Smile

i guess better is a subjective term and i will catch flak from the tk75 lovers… hey! if you have any doubts just buy both LOL

I have a TK75 which I am very fond of but I also know what Tom can do with a shocker so I totally understand what you are saying. I took your advice anyway and got me a shocker too!

you bought a shocker too? im a bit surprised. arent the shocker’s beam very similiar to the tk75? were you thinking of modding your shocker or something?

tabetha
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Took me shocker for a walk last night, at the back of my estate there is an old Raf airfiled, which now is civvy owned and farmland, this has a cycle/path running through center of it, so used me light to shine up woods, houses, jcb/crane that are ripping up old tarmac, the 2 night watch me were not impressed, looking for a car trying to steal the jcb/crane, must admit I did tease them a bit they though there was a car about, even though light was waaaaay too much for a car, was well funny ha ha.
It’s bloody heavy though, and very unbalanced, mine did not have the auto step down after 3 minutes, am I right in assuming it’s not putting out enough light to get hot enough for this function to kick in ?, I am using my AW cells in this light last night, I think it doesn’t need 4 settings, just a higher low them med and turbo, would like to have seen a strobe mode though.
tabs

manxbuggy1
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tabetha wrote:
Took me shocker for a walk last night, at the back of my estate there is an old Raf airfiled, which now is civvy owned and farmland, this has a cycle/path running through center of it, so used me light to shine up woods, houses, jcb/crane that are ripping up old tarmac, the 2 night watch me were not impressed, looking for a car trying to steal the jcb/crane, must admit I did tease them a bit they though there was a car about, even though light was waaaaay too much for a car, was well funny ha ha. It’s bloody heavy though, and very unbalanced, mine did not have the auto step down after 3 minutes, am I right in assuming it’s not putting out enough light to get hot enough for this function to kick in ?, I am using my AW cells in this light last night, I think it doesn’t need 4 settings, just a higher low them med and turbo, would like to have seen a strobe mode though. tabs

I might be mistaken Tabs but I would say that your light did kick down after the 3 minutes. It is a very subtle difference and hardly noticable.

dazed1
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Your not mistaken, the difference from 3K to 2K lumens its not noticeable if its not instant 3000 to 2000, its getting lower then 3K slowly, not all of a sudden.

Fenix TK61 MOD> resistor, transistors, copper heatsink, Artic Cooling MX4, dedome, 3A > 5.7A ~ 1700 lumens > (600.000cd)

manxbuggy1
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blueb8llz wrote:
manxbuggy1 wrote:
jmpaul320 wrote:
everyone needs to own one of these, whether its the stock form, dry driver, tom e upgraded model etc… a great light, proper heatsinking and it doubles as a beating stick if needed because its large.

and the modded tom e version costs about as much as a new tk75 and is better Smile

i guess better is a subjective term and i will catch flak from the tk75 lovers… hey! if you have any doubts just buy both LOL

I have a TK75 which I am very fond of but I also know what Tom can do with a shocker so I totally understand what you are saying. I took your advice anyway and got me a shocker too!

you bought a shocker too? im a bit surprised. arent the shocker’s beam very similiar to the tk75? were you thinking of modding your shocker or something?

The beam is similar. Both lights are very powerful flooders with great throw too. My brother and I were just out playing with them last night. The TK75 is a flood monster that still throws well. The shocker is a floody light also but throws with a TN31 even in stock form. His modded one just accentuates those traits. As for getting the shocker modded, I more than likely will get both lights done. I personally think they complment each other well.

tabetha
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Thinking about it now, you must be right, I just assumed the cells weren’t fully charged and that light was just getting flat, I did notice after a while it was not as bright, I just mistakenly it seems assumed the ramp down was instant.
Thanks for clearing that up for me, I’m off on the same torch walk tonight, 2nd best hobby I’ve ever had this is, I like RC flying, but always get things stuck up trees ha ha.
tabs

relic38
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I ordered some new high-discharge cells from FT for this, just to see if I can get a little more out of it. Using my dead BTU original driver, I can get over 5A from the Sanyo ZT cells. I am using the DRY driver right now, which I’m not really a fan of.

tkmclay, I could do the XM-L2 mod, I did it to mine. Only issue is timing. I cannot say when i could do it though. PM me if you are interested in having it done in the next month or two.

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Tom E
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relic38 wrote:
I ordered some new high-discharge cells from FT for this, just to see if I can get a little more out of it. Using my dead BTU original driver, I can get over 5A from the Sanyo ZT cells. I am using the DRY driver right now, which I'm not really a fan of.

 What batts? I don't understand -- using a dead BTU driver you get over 5 amps?? I'm confused... Did you do any lumens/throw measurements? Assume you got XM-L2's on copper? 

ohaya
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Tom E wrote:

relic38 wrote:
I ordered some new high-discharge cells from FT for this, just to see if I can get a little more out of it. Using my dead BTU original driver, I can get over 5A from the Sanyo ZT cells. I am using the DRY driver right now, which I’m not really a fan of.

 What batts? I don’t understand — using a dead BTU driver you get over 5 amps?? I’m confused… Did you do any lumens/throw measurements? Assume you got XM-L2’s on copper? 

I’m guessing he meant the driver from his dead BTU (dead, for some other reason)?

Tom E
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ohaya wrote:
Tom E wrote:

relic38 wrote:
I ordered some new high-discharge cells from FT for this, just to see if I can get a little more out of it. Using my dead BTU original driver, I can get over 5A from the Sanyo ZT cells. I am using the DRY driver right now, which I'm not really a fan of.

 What batts? I don't understand -- using a dead BTU driver you get over 5 amps?? I'm confused... Did you do any lumens/throw measurements? Assume you got XM-L2's on copper? 

I'm guessing he meant the driver from his dead BTU (dead, for some other reason)?

Ohh - I'm all confused... But interested if he was able to re-produce what I seen. Just haven't had a chance yet to mod the next Shocker same way to see if it can be re-produced... Really would have been better for me to do a lot more testing/experimentation with it while I still had it...

relic38
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Tom E, OK I’ll try to de-confuse things a bit.
Regarding the new cells, I ordered higher discharge rate cells (Pana PDs) to see if they can hold a better voltage under load than the Sanyo ZTs. Fasttech sent them by SingPost, so I hope to see them before August…

Regarding my BTU driver, I fried it a while ago and it turned into a single-mode ‘driver’ that delivers a lot of current (over 5A). I decided to swap to a DRY driver, which is not delivering nearly as much current.

I still have the issue of lower output than your tested BTUs (stock and modded) at the same drive current. I am not trying to address that at the moment. Right now, I want to overcome the potential issue I have of lower drive current when running on cells. That is what the new cells are for.
I may also take a closer look at the DRY driver for any resistance mods that can be done.

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ohaya
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relic38 wrote:
Tom E, OK I’ll try to de-confuse things a bit.
Regarding the new cells, I ordered higher discharge rate cells (Pana PDs) to see if they can hold a better voltage under load than the Sanyo ZTs. Fasttech sent them by SingPost, so I hope to see them before August…

Regarding my BTU driver, I fried it a while ago and it turned into a single-mode ‘driver’ that delivers a lot of current (over 5A). I decided to swap to a DRY driver, which is not delivering nearly as much current.

I still have the issue of lower output than your tested BTUs (stock and modded) at the same drive current. I am not trying to address that at the moment. Right now, I want to overcome the potential issue I have of lower drive current when running on cells. That is what the new cells are for.
I may also take a closer look at the DRY driver for any resistance mods that can be done.

Hi,

When you said:

Quote:
it turned into a single-mode ‘driver’

did you mean you just went direct drive and used the original BTU Shocker’s driver as a contact board?

Or, did you mean something else?

simplec6
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No pics of the mods with the stars mounted?

I’m interested in the easiest way to lap the bottom of the sinkpad stars and the heatsink surfaces?

relic38
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ohaya, I meant the driver is now a glorified piece of wire. Big Smile
I think I reversed the polarity on it and that caused it to release some magic smoke. I still have it intact in a bin of replaced drivers, but there’s no physical sign of damage that I can see.

simplec6, the easiest way to lap a star is to use gradually finer grits of sandpaper on a flat surface. For each cycle, sand the bottom of the star until it has a uniform finish. Then repeat with the next finer paper. I finish off with a mirror-like finish at 2000 grit. Others continue to 2500 grit.

Based on this result, I think 2000 grit is acceptable.

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ohaya
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relic,

Looking at your “mirror finish”, I’m starting to realize that I don’t have enough patience for this hobby :(!

relic38
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ohaya wrote:
relic,

Looking at your “mirror finish”, I’m starting to realize that I don’t have enough patience for this hobby :(!


Neither do I Big Smile
In reality, you don’t have to go that quite that far. I just figured I might as well since I was a few hours in already, what’s another 20 minutes Wink

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I’m sitting here at work, waiting very impatiently to get home and play with this Shocker Tom E modded for me. I have a sucky point and shoot camera, but I might try to figure out how to take some comparison shots with my other throwers (TN31, TK70, Flexcandles Asgard). Unfortunately, I do not have a lux meter, so I can’t do any lux testing either Sad

I will, however, be happy to test the current at the switch with some different batteries. I have the Samsung INR18650-20R batteries which have a rated max discharge of 22 amps. I also have some NCR18650PD’s on the way, but they probably won’t be here for a week or two. I will try and post as much info as I can.

A big thanks to Tom E for modding this light for me! I absolutely cannot wait to get home and play with this thing.

simplec6 wrote:
I’m interested in the easiest way to lap the bottom of the sinkpad stars and the heatsink surfaces?

A tip from the CPU heatsink lapping savants: Go to a local glass shop and ask if you can have a piece of thick (5/8” to 1”) scrap glass. It is the flattest, hardest, least flexible surface you will find and is about as good as it gets for making sure your lapping is completely uniform and flat. If you want a mirror finish after using sandpaper, you can polish it with some 3M rubbing compound.

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relic38 wrote:
ohaya, I meant the driver is now a glorified piece of wire. Big Smile I think I reversed the polarity on it and that caused it to release some magic smoke. I still have it intact in a bin of replaced drivers, but there's no physical sign of damage that I can see. simplec6, the easiest way to lap a star is to use gradually finer grits of sandpaper on a flat surface. For each cycle, sand the bottom of the star until it has a uniform finish. Then repeat with the next finer paper. I finish off with a mirror-like finish at 2000 grit. Others continue to 2500 grit. !http://s20.postimg.org/44gvccn2l/Lapped.jpg! Based on this result, I think 2000 grit is acceptable.

Very nice finish, but just solder the MCPCB to that big board, thermal pastes or glues are not going to match solder conductivity of around 60W/m.K

blueb8llz
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hey orairwolf, i had a tk70 , and it was a beast. can you give me some comparision notes to your tk70 vs your modded shocker.

relic38
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Hikelite wrote:

relic38 wrote:
ohaya, I meant the driver is now a glorified piece of wire. Big Smile I think I reversed the polarity on it and that caused it to release some magic smoke. I still have it intact in a bin of replaced drivers, but there’s no physical sign of damage that I can see. simplec6, the easiest way to lap a star is to use gradually finer grits of sandpaper on a flat surface. For each cycle, sand the bottom of the star until it has a uniform finish. Then repeat with the next finer paper. I finish off with a mirror-like finish at 2000 grit. Others continue to 2500 grit. Based on this result, I think 2000 grit is acceptable.

Very nice finish, but just solder the MCPCB to that big board, thermal pastes or glues are not going to match solder conductivity of around 60W/m.K


There’s no way I’d ever be precise enough to get three emitters perfectly aligned in the reflector holes while soldering them down. I’m sure it can be done, just not by me. Big Smile

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Tom E
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Updated the OP with info on latest de-domed Shocker...

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That is some sick numbers!  Love

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jmpaul320
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5.7A: 4,100 lumens at 30 secs, 467 kcd

HOLY MOTHER.

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

rikr
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Awesome job Tom! Wink

 

 

 New Collection / Old Collection

 
RaceR86
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As usual, I just have to ask, for how long time do you see 5A+ 4,5A+ and 4A+ with those batteries?

They are not exactly high capacity..

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RaceR86 wrote:

As usual, I just have to ask, for how long time do you see 5A+ 4,5A+ and 4A+ with those batteries?

They are not exactly high capacity..

Updated OP with maybe some info that might answer this - bottom line is not very long... Laughing. You don't want to go out for a stroll with this thing on high. Of course your arm would tire, you'd drop the head down, then go blind from the reflected light off the ground... Or, you would get that warm, cozy feeling working it's way up your fingers, and figure you'd better drop it to medium or low, rather than just dropping it before that funny smell you are noticing... burning skin... Medium mode though is 2,000 lumens - gotta love this thing!

 

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