-NEW- BTU shocker now with XML2 upgrade

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Omega_17
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-NEW- BTU shocker now with XML2 upgrade

You can now choose XML2 for $15 more > http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1818

I wonder how much more lumens and luxs does the upgrade make ?

I ordered 3 XML2 T6 3C copper star to replace mine, is there a tutorial somewhere of how to do the replacement ? I’m a total noob, the stars are only attached to the metal with thermal paste ?

Edited by: Omega_17 on 07/25/2013 - 11:05
Tom E
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You know, not sure off-hand... I've done a few Shocker upgrades and others here have as well -- it's a tuff one to do for your first mod, depending on your general mech/electrical backgrnd and tools of course, and amount of patience Smile. Good thing is nothing is sealed with LockTite, but you must be very careful in handling the heavy reflector. Positions of the emitters is not marked, so you must do the positioning/alignment yourself. Generally I upgrade the wires to 20 gauge silicone, use Arctic Silver 5, and attempt to lock the stars down in position by using a slower drying epoxy like fujik on the outside edges of the stars. I also sand/polish the pill top smooth and the back of the stars to get a better bond with the AS5.

 It may be fairly easy for a multi emitter light but there are challenges. If I were you, I'd try first on a couple of $15 lights first before taking a big risk of $$$ on a Shocker, but again, all depends on your background.

bibihang
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For modding the BTU Shocker you may refer to Tom E’s thread here .

Assuming that CNQ will not mount the LED on direct copper MCPCB, my guess is that the throw will probably set around 150k~160kcd before heat sag occurred.

EDIT: Tom E types faster than me lol.

Tom E
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Oh crap, forgot! Post #34 I wrote up details...

One major change I do now:

 

  - to remove/replace the driver, don't unscrew the outer threaded aluminum piece with the guide holes -- unscrew the inner one!! It basically eliminates the twisting of the wires. What I usually do is use a file to cut in 2 marks on the inside of the inner ring to use a needlenose plier with to screw/unscrew with. Actuaslly the outer thick alum plate I leave totally in, untouched.

Omega_17
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This sound like a challenge because I have two left hands and little patience for manual work but I should be able to do it without damaging the light, I hope.

By “positioning/alignment” you mean positioning the LED perfectly in the middle of the reflector ? Isn’t the white plastic around the LED already here to avoid this ? I doubt orientation of the LED impact light output.
What are the 20 gauge silicone for ? Less electric resistance or just easier cable handling ? because it sounds to me like a audiophile thing (but maybe you use Cardas solder lol).

Thanks for the guide list

Tom E
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Omega_17 wrote:
This sound like a challenge because I have two left hands and little patience for manual work but I should be able to do it without damaging the light, I hope. By "positioning/alignment" you mean positioning the LED perfectly in the middle of the reflector ? Isn't the white plastic around the LED already here to avoid this ? I doubt orientation of the LED impact light output. What are the 20 gauge silicone for ? Less electric resistance or just easier cable handling ? because it sounds to me like a audiophile thing (but maybe you use Cardas solder lol). "Thanks for the guide list ":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/20688?page=1#comment-375555[/quote]

Well, positioning the entire star board because there's nothing indicated or marked to position it. Yes - the plastic LED alignment piece works well for the LED positioning, once you are in the neighborhood. The heavier gauge silicone reduces resistance - there's a lot of power going thru there -- my super mods are doing 5 amps, so 60 watts of power. also the silicone (as opposed to teflon) gives you the flexibility. I make the wires long enough to dangle the driver out of the pill cavity, then coil them up in the cavity when assembled.