Review: Kaidomain 5-mode XM-L U2

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SashiX
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Flashlight Foy wrote:

It's not just you Sash - it's even more noticeable on a white wall indoors.  My unscientific analysis is that it might have something to do white its whiteness.

Foy

And it seems to be more purplish than the MF dropin. I really like warm (or slightly green) hotspot tint on mine, but that purple spill is awful. Don't know you, guys, but I really use spill a lot, and that tint just "killing" this great dropin Sad Yeah, the hotspot on this (KD) one looks better, but until I found good, white spill, will not buy any dropins more :~ I prefer dimmer one, but with nice tint.

jamesearljonesi...
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Looks like 200 mA is the highest it can go so look for 10A on the dial or anything over what youll be measuring should be ok. If you also notice the hole where leads go says 200mA max, so if you get 10a will say 10a max

03/04/16 

 

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Foy
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Thanks james, I was afraid of that.  Off the Fry's, I guess.

Foy

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kragmutt
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Not sure, but you may have blown the fuse as well, since you probably measured over 200mA.

LightQuest
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I have the same issue with an old Fluke I have ....2A max for amperage.  Instead of buying a new cheap multimeter with unknown accuracy, consider making a shunt.

Here's some directions, among many others doing a google.  Cost probably a buck for the banana plugs, you probably have the right guage wire laying around.  Accuracy will be better than any cheap DVM cause you're now measuring the voltage drop across the shunt.

Piers
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That's a good suggestion LightQuest. I'd totally forogtten about shunts, I used to have an analog meter that came with a set of shunts to enable it to read accross a wide range.

Foy
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Well, I read those RC links and you're right; I have the wire.  You've convinced me enough to go to Radio Shack and get some "banana plugs."  (sounds like something I might find at an adult book store supercenter)

For my purposes I just need a female thingy on each end (and the banana plug) to plug my leads into.  Put the 1/2 inch of exposed wire through the thingy and into the banana plug - solder.  Plug one end into "com" the other into "ohm V" switch DDBMM (digital douche bag multi meter) to 200mV, touch one lead to flashlight tube, the other to the base of the battery, light comes on and if I see 25, I'm drawing 2.5 amps?

Got a new soldering gun for my birthday last week so, we'll se if I burn down the house.

writingitouthelpsmelearnhowtodoitFoy

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Foy
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Too bad I can't just buy shunts.

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Piers
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It didn't sould like and adult product, but the more you went into details the more dodgy it sounded Silly

LightQuest
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Flashlight Foy wrote:

For my purposes I just need a female thingy on each end (and the banana plug) to plug my leads into.  Put the 1/2 inch of exposed wire through the thingy and into the banana plug - solder.  Plug one end into "com" the other into "ohm V" switch DDBMM (digital douche bag multi meter) to 200mV, touch one lead to flashlight tube, the other to the base of the battery, light comes on and if I see 25, I'm drawing 2.5 amps?

Got a new soldering gun for my birthday last week so, we'll se if I burn down the house.

writingitouthelpsmelearnhowtodoitFoy

thats it!

Went to take a picture of mine, but it must have grown legs & can't be found.  Last time used it (& made it) was last summer when my home AC compressor wasn't working - compressor was drawing 25A & popping breakers due to a corroded wire lug.

Not to discourage u, but you'll hit 1 bump in the road.  Your brand new soldering iron is probably a low wattage pencil type with a fine point - perfect for flashlight mods & other delicate work.  Not for soldering 10g wire to banana clips.  This is where you'd use one of those monster high wattage gun style soldering irons.  That 10 gauge will suck all the heat from your pencil soldering iron & take a long long time to get hot enough for solder to flow.  Put a heat clamp, like a small aligator clamp, next to your soldering point - this may help the heat being disappated down the wire. 

Not an impossibility, just a challenge requiring patience.

LightQuest
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Oh, & the 'thingy' I used to attach the dvm leads to the shunt was a few inches of wire soldered to the 10 gauge, other end soldered to aligator clips to clamp on to the DVM leads.  Not pretty, but functional and ghetto-licious.

And my keyboard thanks you Piers.  It was time for a spilt coffee bath.  Laughing

Foy
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It is one of those little soldering guns so, I'm certain to make a mess of it I'm sure.  I'll post pics; you may want cover your keyboard with something for the upcoming spilt-coffee-bath redux.

bananaplugFoy

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LightQuest
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Problem ya got Foy .... is your macro photography is just way way too good, & your soldering skills are, well, virgin!

Thanx 4 the heads up, I'll cover the keys with plastic  Smile  Solder it when women & children aren't around, their ears will start bleeding from the constant stream of profanity coming from your lips.  And get yourself 1 of those bulb type solder suckers at Rat Shack while you're there, makes the worst soldering job look a whole lot better! That & electrical or duct tape hides all my messes.

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Okay Flash, got a DMM that measures amps.  This guy is pulling 2.7.

Foy

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Foy
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LightQuest - Thank you for the help.  I went to Fry's to get banana plugs, etc. and walked down the DMM aisle.  Saw an Extech MN36 for $30 and . . .

Seems to work okay.  Don't know how accurate.

thankyouFoy

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LightQuest
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Excellent Foy!  & I bet you're measuring amps on all your lights today  Laughing

Langcjl
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Guy called me tonight and said his light, L2P/KD U2, would only run on high and would not change modes. This is the dropin reviewed here with this http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/265mm-aluminum-smooth-reflector... SMO reflector. I put the smooth reflector on there for him because I thought the original was wrong and pressed on the solder connections. See photos of isolator disk above. Interface/mode switching problems are discussed above starting around post 16. It seems these problems happened after a different reflector was put on. I told this guy to turn the reflector back off the pill about 1/8th of a turn. This fixed the problem. I have not seen the light yet. Does anyone else have reports of interface problems with this dropin? Any ideas why backing off the reflector fixes the problem? Maybe I'll put the original reflector on there, just seems the smooth one with the tighter ring on the bottom would be better than the one that seems to press on the solder connections.

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

Langcjl
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I think I might have it. I happen to have one of these dropins on me at work tonight. Looking at it, I think that the inner ring on the bottom of that smooth reflector might be touching one or more corners of the LED. the impression it makes is right on the inner cutout of the isolator disk and the corners of the LED board are exposed.

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

Langcjl
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I used this dropin tonight at work because I wanted to see if, with more use, this dropin would give me any problems. I'm searching an area and the light went out. I wasn't in a position where I could screw around with my light so I opened it quick to adjust the reflector. Didn't do anything so I just pulled out a backup and kept going. Later I took the dropin out and adjusted the reflector a little and reinstalled. Nothing. Looked at the dropin again and the emitter was gone! Came right off the star. I had opened it quickly when it first failed and the again outside. One of those times it fell out. Couldn't find it. I think the stress of the smooth reflector caused the emitter to break loose. I'm going to say, don't use that SMO reflector on this dropin.YMMV

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

agenthex
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Does the OP reflector from this drop-in fit/work well on the MF xml and vice versa? I tried to put an OP reflector from a different dropin and the threading was too small to screw on.

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Langcjl
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I tried the same thing. The SMO reflector from the UF manafont dropin will fit on the KD U2 but then the OP from the KD U2 will not go onto the UF manafont dropin

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

Foy
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I haven't had any problems and, I've grown to really like the OP reflector.  I have it in an L2P.

Foy

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Langcjl
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I'm going to go back to the OP. I wish I still had the emitter that came off. I would Love to try to learn how to reflow solder it

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

agenthex
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Really? The OP from your U2 fits on the MF xml? I can't get any other reflector onto the Ultrafire, it's like some other size (bigger) or something.

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Langcjl
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No. The OP from the U2 does not fit on the UF T6. It works the other way though. The SMO from the UF T6 will fit on the KD U2. It causes problems on there though

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

agenthex
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Sorry I was replying to Foy just above. He said it works for him (?) but maybe it's a miscommunication or something.

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No miscommunication here - I thought we were talking about the U2, I didn't say anything about the MF drop-in - simply said I liked the OP on the U2, the one it came with . . . .

Ohhhhh . . .okay, you thought I meant I didn't have any problems screwing the other reflector on . . . . (sigh)  Yeah, I don't know, I'll have to try it.

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visigoth
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If this is the same drop-in (looks like it), then it's suddenly a huge bargain:

http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S009990

$11.84

visigoth
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I've been trying to decide between this and the KD warm drop-in that's been frying people's switches.  If the U2 really is that much more powerful, then it seems the best solution is to order it and use a Lee filter to alter the color.  (I've been doing that with the Manafont 3-mode -- it's now quite nice.  The Soft Amber Key 1, Lee #774, is lovely.  71% transmission -- so if the U2 offers 29% more light, it's a wash.)

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Hmmm . . . is the U2 that much brighter?.  It's been a while - I'll have to measure it and see.

 

IhopeitisFoy

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