Review: UV light shootout, seven lights tested

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Mr Floppy
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Studie wrote:
Which one did you buy? what is the difference between the TK556 3W 365nm or 395nm? Is the nichia better?

I don’t think either are Nichia UV’s. The 365 is better but it depends what you want to use it for. The 3W has two emitters I think. There was an image of the emitters but need to go look for it.

Studie
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Hmm.. I’m planning to buy it for the same purpose of checking currency and random stuff like lighting up glow in the dark stuff.
Is this a good place to buy it?

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/tank007-tk566-haiii-365nm-money...

DB Custom
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I got the KD P60 and set up my light with extension tubes running 4 18500 cells. Then I got to studying and started taking some measurements. One 18650 gave .31A, where 4 18500’s gave .07A. So the single cell was actually running more power. I don’t need it to run 6 weeks on one charge, so single cell it is! Smile (yes, I know, 6 weeks was an exaggeration to prove a point) Very neat light, like it a lot. Thanks for the recommendation.

texaspyro
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Single cell was drawing more power, but most likely not delivering to the LEDs due to driver efficiency issues.

DB Custom
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It’s brighter on one cell than 4, or 3 or 2. Deceptive, as there’s not much visible light but it causes reactions in materials from further away. Materials like white objects, like urine, like diamonds…

On 4 brand new Kinoko 18500 high discharge cells it pulls .07A at the tail, just now. On one well rested and partially used Sanyo UR18650FJ lap pull it does .31A at the tail. In my lightbox, the 4 cells show up as .01 with no multiplier used. The single Sanyo shows .02. Much easier to see a stain in carpet for instance, with one cell from waist high, versus the 4 cells, where handholding at the waist barely shows the floor.

And it’s a single LED, not LED’s.

ri chevy
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DBCstm wrote:
I got the KD P60 and set up my light with extension tubes running 4 18500 cells. Then I got to studying and started taking some measurements. One 18650 gave .31A, where 4 18500’s gave .07A. So the single cell was actually running more power. I don’t need it to run 6 weeks on one charge, so single cell it is! Smile (yes, I know, 6 weeks was an exaggeration to prove a point) Very neat light, like it a lot. Thanks for the recommendation.

Interesting photo. I am usually use to seeing the LED’s as greenish in color. This is very different.

DB Custom
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ri chevy, it was pointed out in this thread that the UV light causes the phosphor to fluoresce different colors dependant on their tint bins. So you get a different result if the tint is cool white vs warm white. Cool whites like 1A tint bins don’t actually do much and still have that yellow/green look but duller, warm tint’s like the one above go orange! The warmer the more orange, so it actually does help to identify which tint bins you have with the UV light.

Just this morning I was looking to put an XM-L2 U2 1A in gas for de-doming. I had an unmarked emitter on a Noctigon, and a marked 1A bare in a bag. What tint is the mounted one? Side by side they look identical. But I didn’t want a greenish cast to my light with the de-domed emitter, so I got the UV light out. The bare emitter glowed brighter, highlighter yellow, so I knew it was the one to go with! Smile The other is probably a 3C, had that dullish yellow/green look to it.

The light above is, I think, an XP-G2 R5 2B. My big MT-G2 lights also glow orange, and are supposed to be 5000K in temperature. Wink

ri chevy
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Cool. I did not realize that. Thank you for the explanation. I am still waiting for a triple UV drop in. Beer

Mr Floppy
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Studie wrote:
Is this a good place to buy it?

That’s where I’d go.

DBCstm wrote:
It’s brighter on one cell than 4, or 3 or 2. Deceptive, as there’s not much visible light but it causes reactions in materials from further away. Materials like white objects, like urine, like diamonds…

I had thought that the number of cells only increased the run time and that on one cell it needed to boost the voltage slightly and more two or more cells would buck, but then

8steve88 wrote:

The higher the voltage that you feed it the better it performs.

I wonder if there has been a change in the driver?

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The P60 approach seems promising, especially if it performs well on a single 18650. However, I’m still trying to find a review of the Nitecore CU6, because it sounds like it could potentially be a fairly nice UV light. The most detail I’ve found is that it pulls about 3W (~0.8A, or ~2.6X as much as the P60?) from the battery and produces about 1W of light at 365nm. I’ve found no actual reviews though, or personal tests to show how well it works compared to other lights.

The r/g/b and white modes would just be an extra bonus, making it useful for more than a single purpose.

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Or maybe I should just get a P60 (perhaps a SF L2m?) and a drop-in. It’d cost a lot less than the CU6, and I’ve never had a P60. I wonder how the drop-in would perform with 1×16340.

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DBCstm wrote:
I got the drop-in the other day and put it in an L2P with 2 extension tubes, running 4 18500 lap pulls in it. Very low visible light, but very strong UV. Can’t see it in a beam profile more than a few feet away, but in a dark room it will flouresce virtually anything in the room. Haven’t tried currency yet, but diamonds really show their stuff! And the emitters, yeah the MT-G2 is awesome looking at a bright reddish orange! Gotta be careful not to flash the UV back at yourself though. Wink

How important is it to run that high a voltage? Would be much more convenient to have a smaller light, but if it needs that kind of power to really work then I’ll leave it set up as it is.

Thanks again!

Pleased you like it, I must have five or more P60 UV drop-ins that I wasn’t happy with, too much visible light.
The KD one – 3W 365UV 3-18V OP LED Lamp was the best I found.
Still running on 6×3v = 18v Nitecore primaries, if I put 2 in it’s reach diminishes but you can only try it and see. At $15.81 it’s not a cheap drop-in but it’s an alternative if you already have host and batteries.

Mr Floppy
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Or maybe I should just get a P60 (perhaps a SF L2m?) and a drop-in. It’d cost a lot less than the CU6, and I’ve never had a P60. I wonder how the drop-in would perform with 1×16340.

about the same as a 1×3.7V Li-Ion I imagine. I’m at the point where I am going to get both the TK566 and the KD P60. If I procrastinate long enough, someone may get the CU6 and review it but it is still quite over budget for me.

DB Custom
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The L2m will take an 18350, should fare better with larger capacity. (16340 has 550mAh, vs 18350’s 800mAh) And the L2m body is on sale at solarforceflashlight-sales.com for $3.99, buy a head and tailcap of your choice and you’re in business.

I found that with 4 cells, the reach was diminished compared to a single cell. Wonder why that is? I got the KD one and really like it, not a lot of visible light so it’s fairly misleading but it sure puts out the UV!

Mr Floppy
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I don’t suppose the KD P60 has some sort or low voltage protection in the head does it?

I imagine it would be hard to tell when the light output starts to diminish with UV

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8steve88 wrote:
DBCstm wrote:
I got the drop-in the other day and put it in an L2P with 2 extension tubes, running 4 18500 lap pulls in it. Very low visible light, but very strong UV. Can’t see it in a beam profile more than a few feet away, but in a dark room it will flouresce virtually anything in the room. Haven’t tried currency yet, but diamonds really show their stuff! And the emitters, yeah the MT-G2 is awesome looking at a bright reddish orange! Gotta be careful not to flash the UV back at yourself though. Wink

How important is it to run that high a voltage? Would be much more convenient to have a smaller light, but if it needs that kind of power to really work then I’ll leave it set up as it is.

Thanks again!

Pleased you like it, I must have five or more P60 UV drop-ins that I wasn’t happy with, too much visible light.
The KD one – 3W 365UV 3-18V OP LED Lamp was the best I found.
Still running on 6×3v = 18v Nitecore primaries, if I put 2 in it’s reach diminishes but you can only try it and see. At $15.81 it’s not a cheap drop-in but it’s an alternative if you already have host and batteries.

this thread is so much what I needed just NOW!!
Thanks for the bump Wink

At work, they tried to sell us UV-lamp for NDT test inspections.
It can be done without but AFAIK it helps:

http://www.crime-scene.com/store/A-L602.shtml

900USD and that price was BEFORE the tax Smile

ri chevy
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I wonder how this Labino light for $900 compares to the Nitecore CU6? As far as power and output goes. I am not familiar with the terms that are used in the descriptions.

LarryDFW
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Mr Floppy wrote:
Studie wrote:
Which one did you buy? what is the difference between the TK556 3W 365nm or 395nm? Is the nichia better?

I don’t think either are Nichia UV’s. The 365 is better but it depends what you want to use it for. The 3W has two emitters I think. There was an image of the emitters but need to go look for it.

The 3 watt 501B with 2 emitters does a good job on currency . . .

for a reasonable price.

LarryDFW

Mr Floppy
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Mr Floppy wrote:
Studie wrote:
Is this a good place to buy it?

That’s where I’d go.

Or not. Didn’t realise that Manafont is not taking orders while they change management. Hopefully the price of the TK doesn’t go up. $31.40 is the best I’ve seen. Meanwhile, I picked up the KD P60 and a 501B.

Thinkcat
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Hi

I wonder if it is necessary to spend more than $50 to get an usable all-around UV flashlight. I am aiming at 365nm.

Are any of these any good?
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?LH_BIN=1&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=ultravio...

There is 3W and 1W Tank007 and Mastiff A2. What kind of manufacturer is Mastiff? And should I try to get a 3W one, or would anyone here be happy with just a 1W one?

I also don’t understand what is the function of the AA extender in the Tank007 flashlight. It seems like it adds nothing to the price and they seem like all specced for two AA batteries.

Thanks for any information. I know AA batteries are weaker than lithium cells, but they are also more readily available and not as expensive.

ri chevy
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Welcome to the Forum! Beer Beer

The lights in the link above seem to be a little overpriced to me. The AA extender will give you longer run times allowing you to use 2-AA’s instead of 1, thus doubling your run time. It also makes the host longer. The lights probably have low voltages drop ins (.8v to 4.2v) Using 1 or 2 AA’s will put you safely inside the voltage limits. (1.5 to 3v’s on fresh cells)

The smaller 1-AA Tank in the link is only a 1W output vs. the 3W output of the 2-AA light.

Tank makes some decent lights, and have been discussed on here several times.

Check with some of the vendors on here and see if they carry the same light. They offer excellent customer service and guidance.

borked
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The TK566 goes from 1w to 3w with the extender, or at least that’s what was explained to me when inquiring about it.
Also, Manafont had them for under $30 at one stage…

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If you are into soldering, a 365nm light can still be made fairly cheap by buying a separate emitter (an ok chinese emitter goes for under 15 dollars, I guess the Tank uses one of those) and put it in a host-with-driver of choice.

Thinkcat
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djozz wrote:

If you are into soldering, a 365nm light can still be made fairly cheap by buying a separate emitter (an ok chinese emitter goes for under 15 dollars, I guess the Tank uses one of those) and put it in a host-with-driver of choice.

I think I’d rather buy a complete unit. I know the required electronics but have no experience with hunting parts and figuring how to put them physically together. Unless someone can show me a list, like “host here, driver there and emitter there, here you go” and I just click “buy, buy, buy” and slide the thing together once everything arrives.

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There was links in the thread to two P60 drop in that will just slip into a P60 host, the links still work. One was the solarforce with 380-450 claimed nm. And the Kaidomain with claimed 365nm. The reports from an owner suggest he kaidomain was better, less polluting other light and it charged flouro paint instantly. The SF one did it too, just not as quickly. It was pointed out that light in the 365 range can also do what the ones in the higher range will do, but not vice versa, so the 365 would seem to be the pick to me. If Im reading it right. And at the price point of a few dollars that is.

Kaidomain – http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022214
Solarforce – http://www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=11&i...

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Hi all, I own a couple of P60 (502b w/186500) 1W UV lights from DX. They wont light up a $100 USD bill. Based on this thread, I ordered one from KD. Do you think it will work in a 501 with 2 CR123s?

No one notices when things are going right

ImA4Wheelr
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I could be wrong, but I don't think the new US $100 bills have anything that fluoresces in them.  Maybe some small fibers in the paper, but I don't recall.

texaspyro
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processengr wrote:
They wont light up a $100 USD bill.

Send me the $100 bill and I’ll see if any of my lights make it glow… Party

ri chevy
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processengr wrote:
Hi all, I own a couple of P60 (502b w/18650) 1W UV lights from DX. They wont light up a $100 USD bill. Based on this thread, I ordered one from KD. Do you think it will work in a 501 with 2 CR123s?

It should work fine. The voltage is 3v to 18v if I remember correctly. Some members were reporting that it worked better in the higher voltage ranges.

Mr Floppy
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processengr wrote:
Do you think it will work in a 501 with 2 CR123s?

Yes. I’m getting a magenta 501b just use with the KD drop-in. That way I don’t get confused and pick up the wrong light.

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