That’s the best $12.18 I’ve EVER spent! (of course I know they were cheaper at WB just a few days later 
) I remember posting a thread about looking for a budget thrower when I first got on here and several people suggested it, but I didn’t have a clue. Anyway, after playing with it….I mean, TESTing it last night, it’s a real winner as is.
Is there ONE easy mod to make it better/brighter without spending much money or being too difficult for a fledgling modder?
Thanks!
Look under the pcb to see if there is a paper disk. If there is, consider removing it.
I was going to mount the emitter on a copper Noctigon, but when I took the head off I realized it was 16mm and Noctigons for XR-E are only in 20mm.
XR-E's are around for many years but are still notoriously difficult to improve in throw without going bigger and more amps (with all the extra problems that arise with that). If you like pencil beams you could consider dedoming the XR-E, you loose some output but the even thinner beam is more intense.
how about de-doming an xp-e?
i think someone has done that here on BLF?
i have a couple of throwers that need modding, might try to do it on one of them.
direct drive it, really wakes it up if its only pulling 1 and a bit amps or so.
just carry out all the thermal issue checks first on the two links above.
I dedomed several xp-e2's. Works. Thing is that dedoming xp-e's, xp-g's and xm-l's result in up to twice the throw, I just tried to find data about dedomed xr-e's but could not find any (lots of talk about dedomed XR-E's but no lumen/throw output data could be found), but I think I have understood that the gain from dedoming the XR-E is much less: you loose total output but do not gain a lot of throw. Can anyone correct me?
I will sing djozz post.
Gain(in throw) from de doming XRE will happen but not such gain as from XP-G2 and XP-E2 which will have nice upper NW tint(4800K) after de-doming.
I don’t recommend de doming xre although it is the most easiest thing to do (just pry it off ring with pliers)
XP-E2 and XRE EZ900 are same size emitters.
with dedoming the XR-E, I suppose that it includes taking off the metal ring?
Thanks for pointing out the paper disk problem, it doesn’t seem to sag but I haven’t run it for very long yet. No dedoming for me, makes them too fragile imo. Where do you get an XPE2 on 16mm copper and how much juice can it take?
Most 20mm can be cut/filed down to 16mm. Just have to be careful not to get a short with the contact pads so close to the edge of the base afterwords. Most of time you have to cut through the contact pads. That's not a problem. If you have to, you can scrape some of the paint over the underlying trace to make a new contact pad.
No xp-e2's on copper (or aluminium for that matter) I'm afraid. I see them only as bare leds at Illumination Supply (I myself never consider Mouser or Digikey because of their shipping rates, but I doubt they have mounted xp-e2's).
Match's data give a maximum output of the xp-e2 on copper at 2.4-2.6A (480 led-lumens). Above that the output decreases.
You’re welcome. I have one A60 and another on the way, but I still haven’t checked mine for this problem. Too many other things to do.
1. Battery (if you have a few, swap them and check/post tailcap draw - if you don’t have an IMR, they are nice to try)
Or direct drive/driver mod (post closeup of driver for the experts to see)
Or better driver
Or XPG2? (saw XPE2 didn’t look to see results posted for A60 G may not throw further than E, but should be more light)
I’ve been using an AW IMR in it…never got my meter from T-mart so I can’t do tailcap readings yet.
direct drive took me ten minutes to do on my van seat……use the stock wires and you should be at the sweet spot of 2.5a.
you’ll be shocked at the difference from stock.
That should do what you need - now need meter to confirm and for next steps IMO.
Post a pic of the current driver to see if that has an easy tweak while you’re waiting for it. Beyond a tweak or direct drive you’ll probably double the cost of the light with better parts (and it will be worth it IMO).
If you have an XRE in it, then I’d definitely do an LED on copper and driver swap using recommended parts, preferably where someone has posted results. The XPE2 will stay very narrow beam, and be much brighter if matched with good driver.
If you want more spill, the XRE probbly has a fairly big reflector opening, you might want to get both and XPG2 and XML2 to see which you like (if you can’t find online results).
Same battery? The IMR could run hot, so I’d want to have the meter in hand for that.
As I mentioned in another thread:
A60 reminds me of the fable the Blindmen and the Elephant.
The hot spot is so narrow that it’s hard to tell what you are seeing.
I haven’t really had time to look at my Aurabuy A60 since I got it. It was sitting on the table and my DMM was out so I took a quick tail reading and got 1.8A with an IMR.