There is absolutely no point dedoming this wonderful led with the best CRI around and beautiful neutral tint, causing the tint to go warm and the output to go down, other than: I was curious about it :-)
I had a 219 leftover from the DIY-built contest this summer that had lost the minus solder pad. However there was a small shred going to the inside of the led still hanging about so I reckoned that if I reflowed it, the solder would adhere to that bit and the led should work. So it was a fine led to try dedoming it. I did it with a scalpel while the board was still hot from the reflow (on youtube it is in HD):
So that worked well, no phosfor left on the dome at all. The feel was different from Cree leds though, the Cree silicone is more flexible, gives way and comes off slowly, this dome just snapped off, feeling a lot stiffer. this was the result:
The led-tester showed that it worked (joehoe!), I mounted the board on my usual block of aluminium with a reflector on top, soldered wires and connected the power supply so I could do some beam comparisons. I do not show white wall shots because they give the wrong idea about the tint. The tint temperature is in between the stock Nichia 219 and the xpg highCRI 2700K, a bit more on the warm side of that so I'd say 3200K. As you would have expected there is a bit more yellow in it, but not at all as yellow as some Cree leds go after dedoming, this is still a very nice tint. I did some beamshots of a pile of laundry lying about (mainly my 2year-old's ;-) ), the differences are subtle and not exact the true colours you see in real, and the beams are also not exactly the same type, but you may get an idea. Top is Nichia 219 (a UF C3 ss mod), middle is Nichia219 dedomed, bottom is XP-GhighCRI2700K (4sevens miniAA highCRI).
That was fun, the led will even find its way in a flashlight some day :-)