Has anyone used this board (AMC7135 1400mA Regulated Circuit Board for DIY)?

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ohaya
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Has anyone used this board (AMC7135 1400mA Regulated Circuit Board for DIY)?

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone has used this board (maybe stacked as a slave)?

http://www.goodluckbuy.com/amc7135-1400ma-regulated-circuit-board-for-di...

Does this board only have 7135s on it? It kind of looks like they’re using something like an IC that is equivalent to 2×7135s (so 2 of them give you 4×7135)?

garrybunk
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Looks to me like its the wrong photos for that product. 

-Garry

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Helios-
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Yea, wrong photos or wrong description. There are no 7135s on the boards shown.
The two 8 pin SOIC8 chips are different, one is unmarked, the other seems to be k24c020.
I don’t think they are trying to say its equivalent to 4*7135. I think they are trying to say ‘we can’t get our listings straight’.


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ohaya
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I thought that I had remembered seeing another chip that was a 700mA current regulator, equivalent of 2×7135s, and thought that this might be be using those. I can’t find where I saw that :(…

I also found this at FT:

https://www.fasttech.com/product/1424902

and am wondering if it’d be possible to slave this to a 105c/Nanjg driver to “add” 1400 mA, without having to stack 7135s (I’ll do anything to avoid stacking 7135s :)!), in cases where it’d be ok to stack 2 17mm boards? The FT board has a hole in the center, that seems like it could be opened up a bit to pass some wires through (emitter + and -, and battery + and -).

So, the battery + and – could be used to power the FT board, and the emitter + and – could be soldered together with the + and – from the FT board?

You’d also pass the Vdd from the 105C through to the Vdd on this FT board.

So, if you had a 2800 mA 105C and this, you’d be able to get 4.2 amps?

Helios-
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The FT ones could be used as slaves. I think I recall FT selling them individually as well. I’d bypass the diode tho.


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ohaya
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Helios- wrote:
The FT ones could be used as slaves. I think I recall FT selling them individually as well.

I’ve seen some older threads about slaving, but they involved removing components from “real” drivers. Are there any using the FT boards?

Helios-
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On the FT ones, connect pwm to the battery positive on the slave board. Ground to ground, join the slave led negative with the led negative on the main driver.

Here is the listing for just one of the 4*7136 boards. I’m guessing you don’t need a giant pack of them. On the single board, connect pwm to the empty pad in the middle (bypasses the diode).


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moderator007
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Those boards at fasttech look to be the same as the DX 1400ma boards that I have used many times in the past to slave boards back before the 2800ma boards where available. It is some what easier to slave boards than add chips if you have the room. I still have some for slaving and 1 mode usage. That’s where us old timers use to get spare amc7135’s to stack with, it was the cheapest board with the amc7135’s to use as a donor to boards with modes.
.
http://dx.com/p/amc7135-1400ma-regulated-circuit-board-for-diy-flashligh...
.
As a side note, you will only need three connections to slave the board, the same as stacking. You need to only parallel the three legs of one amc7135 on the 105c to three legs of one amc7135 on the slave board. You can connect + and – for the led at either board, but if you use the slave board to make the connection to the led, the wires from master to slave must be large enough to carry 2800ma to the slave. If you connect the led to the master board the three wires from master to slave only need to be large enough to carry 1400ma to the master.
The diode we use to eliminate by removing and placing a small piece of copper wire across the pads and soldering in.
.
Little more info here that might help.

ohaya
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Hi,

Thanks guys, and also for the DX link, moderator and for the wiring info (and yes, some of the threads about slaving are really old). I’ll give those a try.

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ohaya wrote:
Hi,

Thanks guys, and also for the DX link, moderator and for the wiring info (and yes, some of the threads about slaving are really old). I’ll give those a try.


Are you saying I’am really old? Silly
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I believe he is. Go get ‘em!


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ohaya
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moderator007 wrote:
ohaya wrote:
Hi,

Thanks guys, and also for the DX link, moderator and for the wiring info (and yes, some of the threads about slaving are really old). I’ll give those a try.


Are you saying I’am really old? Silly

Wait! You, yourself, mentioned “old timers” :)!!! And no, I didn’t… just that most of those threads were old*ER* :)…

ohaya
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CATFIGHT !! Oh, wait, now moderator will say I’m calling both of us CATS :)!!

EDIT: I’m just trying to lure Chloe into this thread :)…

moderator007
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ohaya wrote:
moderator007 wrote:
ohaya wrote:
Hi,

Thanks guys, and also for the DX link, moderator and for the wiring info (and yes, some of the threads about slaving are really old). I’ll give those a try.


Are you saying I’am really old? Silly

Wait! You, yourself, mentioned “old timers” :)!!! And no, I didn’t… just that most of those threads were old*ER* :)…


I’am in those “old” threads! So I must be old. Shocked
Yes ohaya, I did say old timers. The amc7135’s have been around a long time but not as long as me. :bigsmile:
I have been modding flashlights since shortly before the 1 watt Luxeon leds came out. How times have changed. I do consider myself a oldtimer when it comes to modding flashlights. Looking back, maybe I’am getting old. Silly
ohaya
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moderator007 wrote:
ohaya wrote:
moderator007 wrote:
ohaya wrote:
Hi,

Thanks guys, and also for the DX link, moderator and for the wiring info (and yes, some of the threads about slaving are really old). I’ll give those a try.


Are you saying I’am really old? Silly

Wait! You, yourself, mentioned “old timers” :)!!! And no, I didn’t… just that most of those threads were old*ER* :)…


I’am in those “old” threads! So I must be old. Shocked
Yes ohaya, I did say old timers. The amc7135’s have been around a long time but not as long as me. :bigsmile:
I have been modding flashlights since shortly before the 1 watt Luxeon leds came out. How times have changed. I do consider myself a oldtimer when it comes to modding flashlights. Looking back, maybe I’am getting old. Silly

You know the saying? “What’s old becomes new”… So there’s hope for ALL of us :)… I was actually thinking about paralleling boards, and was kind of surprised when I ran across those threads about slave-master, but I think that they’re still applicable nowadays, but a little easier since the 7135-only boards are readily-available now, so it’s all cool, and new (to me, at least :)!)…

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It looks like they are saying each of those chips has 4 × 7135 on it. Not impossible I suppose but all the current goes through 1 pin to gnd but that would make it a 2.8A board unless it’s just 2 × 7135 per chip.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

ohaya
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Rufusbduck wrote:
It looks like they are saying each of those chips has 4 × 7135 on it. Not impossible I suppose but all the current goes through 1 pin to gnd but that would make it a 2.8A board unless it’s just 2 × 7135 per chip.

That was what I was puzzling about, and wasn’t able to ask clearly. I guess that, rather than guess, it’ll be best to go with the boards with the “traditional” 7135s whenever I get around to trying this.

Thanks,
Jim

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If they showed a picture with the traces we might puzzle it out but I certainly can’t tell now.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I completed this a couple of weeks ago. Its a skyray kung driver with all the components removed from the board with 4 amc7135 2800ma boards paralleled (3 with the attiny13 removed) and soldered in the appropriate places to the original kung board to pick up the battery + and -. Thats a total of 32 amc7135’s. Should put out 11,200ma. The best I have seen with Panasonic NCR 18650 2900mah (your laptop pack pulls) has been a little over 10 amps, maybe some parasitic resistance holding it back :~ . Still uses the momentary switch with a new code flashed to the attiny13 for modes and ramping. She’s definitely brighter now and gets hot extremely fast. I may address that issue at a later date.
.

.
Thought you might find it interesting. I do crap like this all the time, I just get in such a mood to get it done and concentrating I forget all about taking pics and posting anything. Shocked

ohaya
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moderator007 wrote:
I completed this a couple of weeks ago. Its a skyray kung driver with all the components removed from the board with 4 amc7135 2800ma boards paralleled (3 with the attiny13 removed) and soldered in the appropriate places to the original kung board to pick up the battery + and -. Thats a total of 32 amc7135’s. Should put out 11,200ma. The best I have seen with Panasonic NCR 18650 2900mah (your laptop pack pulls) has been a little over 10 amps, maybe some parasitic resistance holding it back :~ . Still uses the momentary switch with a new code flashed to the attiny13 for modes and ramping. She’s definitely brighter now and gets hot extremely fast. I may address that issue at a later date. . . Thought you might find it interesting. I do crap like this all the time, I just get in such a mood to get it done and concentrating I forget all about taking pics and posting anything. Shocked

Talk about “lego” :)!! And, definitely interesting!

Just to make sure that I understand the DX/FT boards discussed earlier, you could’ve used those DX/FT 7135 boards and not had to remove components (albeit, I guess you’d need 8 of the 1400 mA boards), right?

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Good luck buying really screwed up a really simple order of mine ..

 I will never buy from them again .

Someone was right .. their descriptions shouldn't be trusted .

I ordered a few things from them and almost everything was wrong ...sigh  .. the emitters tint were way off and I didn't know it untill I'd modded a few lights with them . Call me stupid bt I was on a roll and put two emitters in without trying either one  ...

Burn me once ...

                 υμεις εστε το φως του κοσμου ου δυναται πολις κρυβηναι επανω ορους κειμενη

                            Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

moderator007
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ohaya wrote:
moderator007 wrote:
I completed this a couple of weeks ago. Its a skyray kung driver with all the components removed from the board with 4 amc7135 2800ma boards paralleled (3 with the attiny13 removed) and soldered in the appropriate places to the original kung board to pick up the battery + and -. Thats a total of 32 amc7135’s. Should put out 11,200ma. The best I have seen with Panasonic NCR 18650 2900mah (your laptop pack pulls) has been a little over 10 amps, maybe some parasitic resistance holding it back :~ . Still uses the momentary switch with a new code flashed to the attiny13 for modes and ramping. She’s definitely brighter now and gets hot extremely fast. I may address that issue at a later date. . .h Thought you might find it interesting. I do crap like this all the time, I just get in such a mood to get it done and concentrating I forget all about taking pics and posting anything. Shocked

Talk about “lego” :)!! And, definitely interesting!

Just to make sure that I understand the DX/FT boards discussed earlier, you could’ve used those DX/FT 7135 boards and not had to remove components (albeit, I guess you’d need 8 of the 1400 mA boards), right?


Yes, I could have used them, but would have had twice as many connections to make.
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Wow Moderator007.  That is frickin cool.  It's not lego at all.  Lego implies the pieces fit together without mod.  Totally custom and totally cool.  Did you write the code yourself?

moderator007
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Thanks and glad you like it.
Didn’t take as long as I had imagined it would to get it up and running.
As for the code: No, there is a member on this forum that very kindly sent me the code to use.