Review Olight S10 L2 Baton XM-L2,400Lm,1x(R)CR123A +3D pics

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jsr
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The OP says rechargeable R123s won’t fit, but I believe some have used R123s successfully. For those that use R123s, can you measure the length of your cells? I’m thinking of picking up both the S10 and S20, but need the ability to run rechargeables.
On that note, anyone know if the S20 has problems with any 18650s?

Thanks.

DBSAR
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love the S Baton lights. I have the S20 & S10, now need to add the S15 to my collection.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

DARCANGEL
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jsr wrote:
The OP says rechargeable R123s won't fit, but I believe some have used R123s successfully. For those that use R123s, can you measure the length of your cells? I'm thinking of picking up both the S10 and S20, but need the ability to run rechargeables. On that note, anyone know if the S20 has problems with any 18650s? Thanks.
jsr,I posted a review of the s20 and s10 and the s10 was tested with AW icr 16340 and a tenergy rcr123 3 volt.The s20 took keeppower button top 3400 with no problem as well as flat top redilast 3100.The length of the two are 68.9 mm for KP and 68.8 mm for redilast.Hope that helps.@ Flashlion,excellent review and pictures as usual!
gregs656
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jsr wrote:
The OP says rechargeable R123s won’t fit, but I believe some have used R123s successfully. For those that use R123s, can you measure the length of your cells? I’m thinking of picking up both the S10 and S20, but need the ability to run rechargeables.
On that note, anyone know if the S20 has problems with any 18650s?

Thanks.

I’ve been using Efest 16340s in mine. Come out right at 34mm.

FlashLion
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jsr wrote:
The OP says rechargeable R123s won’t fit, but I believe some have used R123s successfully. For those that use R123s, can you measure the length of your cells? I’m thinking of picking up both the S10 and S20, but need the ability to run rechargeables.
On that note, anyone know if the S20 has problems with any 18650s?

Thanks.


Hello
I didn’t write it quite well. I tested with Klarus and Keeppower 16340 and they are too long.Their protection circuit is not symmetrically packed and this could be the reason they don’t fit. So this light needs really high quality battery like AW or Nitecore.
I use Nitecore RCR123A and it fits in all lights I’ve tested.
Gebe
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FlashLion wrote:
jsr wrote:
The OP says rechargeable R123s won’t fit, but I believe some have used R123s successfully. For those that use R123s, can you measure the length of your cells? I’m thinking of picking up both the S10 and S20, but need the ability to run rechargeables.
On that note, anyone know if the S20 has problems with any 18650s?

Thanks.


Hello
I didn’t write it quite well. I tested with Klarus and Keeppower 16340 and they are too long.Their protection circuit is not symmetrically packed and this could be the reason they don’t fit. So this light needs really high quality battery like AW or Nitecore.
I use Nitecore RCR123A and it fits in all lights I’ve tested.

I agree. The Nitecore NL166 RCR123A is a great cell and fits perfectly.

jsr
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Thanks guys. Do you know how long the Keeppower and Klarus cells are? I haven’t bought new R123s on over 8yrs so I don’t know much about the new ones available. I just bought 1 new Xtar 16340 and it’s a good bit longer than my old 16340s.

jsr
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Finally found my digital calipers and measured my 16340 cells. My blue ones are 16.3 × 34.3 and my Xtar one is 16.3 × 35.15. I’m guessing the Xtar cell will not fit, but will my blue cells fit? They’re 0.3mm lomger than the longest measured fitting cell.
Thanks.

harry218
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I just received this flashlight and mine came with SMO reflector. Did Olight change the reflector recently?

Trevi_lux
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Hello, here is my Olight S10 XM-L,

I found it in my pocket, In this way.
For three days ago I ask Olight, they do not answer.
HI OLIGHT!!! Do you have customer service? |( …… Aaaah, no customer service….

oK, I can use strong glue, but what if a piece is lost? What about the IPX8? Has this happened in most units?

jsr
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That’s not confidence inspiring. Looks like the seal is made soley by the pressure of the ring which is only press fit in. This is giving me second thoughts on the S10 and S20.

FlashLion
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Sorry for the problem with your S10. Sad
I thought the metal part has threads.
Probably the switch on your S10 is not well glued. It is from the previous version with the white switch boot. It was very popular light before the XM-L2 update. This is the first time I read for problems with this light.
You should contact the seller where you bought it and they will take care with the warranty.

gregs656
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jsr wrote:
That’s not confidence inspiring. Looks like the seal is made soley by the pressure of the ring which is only press fit in. This is giving me second thoughts on the S10 and S20.

I suggest you don’t google anything you own with the word ‘fault’ or you may have to give away all your stuff Wink

Sometimes things break, the important thing is how it is dealt with by the relevant parties (if it is still under warranty).

Edit: I would glue it back in my self if it was me.

jsr
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My lack of confidence comes from the design, not that an issue occurred. If the seal is made by the pressure from a pressed in piece only that has little mechanical strength, that’s not a good design. Flashlion indicates the piece should have been glued which appears it was inadequately done if glue is part of the process. If glue is used and thus seal is not just from the press fit, that’s ok. That makes the switch not non-removable, which based on the pics of it coming off, I assumed it was meant to be removable. An assembly issue is less of a concern than a design one. If you don’t care if something has potential design flaws, that’s your prerogative but don’t fault those who bother to look further.

gregs656
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It’s not that I am not concerned about something having potential design flaws, I just don’t see a solitary case as evidence of anything, and when compounded by conjecture any conclusion drawn is even less useful. I was making a bit of a joke at your expense, sorry if you thought I was being rude.

If you buy an S10 or an S20, you will be really pleased with it – I’m sure.

Trevi_lux
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I also have a S10 XM-L2, S15 and S15 Ti.
I glued the switch and the metal piece with Loctite, all is ok now. But Olight has not reply to me since Monday, that worries me.
Although they can not help me, they should answer my question.
Maybe they think is unimportant, I think it’s serious. The flashlight bought 10 months ago on ebay, but it was in the showcase. I started using it two weeks ago.

jsr
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Greg,
I understand it was meant jokingly, but I felt it also glanced over the potential design issue. So while only 1 case has been reported, more can occur due to the cause. And I feel it’s more than just conjecture in this case. These mechanical designs are not complex and in this case it’s easy to evaluate the design of this switch portion via visual. Interference fitments can be strong if done right, but I don’t think flashlights at this price point go through the materials and mechanical analysis to do that correctly. I’ve been in this hobby a long time and it’s where it’s at because we’ve challenged them to improve not just in outright performance, but in their overall design practices. This happens when we find potential flaws to allow mfrs to address them.
Hopefully this was just a production oversight where someone forgot the glue.

Trevi_lux
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After 10 days, Olight reply to me. I must send the light and they send to me a replacement (see post # 40)
I am happy with their offer. But the contact adhesive resists. Change is not necessary. Good service.

atbglenn
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harry218 wrote:
I just received this flashlight and mine came with SMO reflector. Did Olight change the reflector recently?

Just got mine today from an authorized dealer. Mine has a SMO reflector as well. Anyone else get one recently?

Boycott Nike

Coltchris
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Just got mine today from an authorized dealer. Mine has a SMO reflector as well. Anyone else get one recently?

Received my new S-10 today (also from authorized dealer) and it also has a SMO reflector. Like the light but taking a little time to get used to the clicky UI!

Boro
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atbglenn wrote:

harry218 wrote:
I just received this flashlight and mine came with SMO reflector. Did Olight change the reflector recently?

Just got mine today from an authorized dealer. Mine has a SMO reflector as well. Anyone else get one recently?

All 4 of my recent S10 are SMO

bugsy
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I have the L2 version and mine still appears greenish. Is it worth replacing the lens or is it from the emitter? What lens do you use to replace the stock?

bugsy
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No one?

marcl
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Hi Flashlion,

I have a question I hope you can answer.

The S10 is 400 lumens, the S15 is 280 lumens and has been slated, wrongly in my opinion, for only having 280 LM. However when I read a review of the S15, I think it was from self build, he mentioned the tail cap reading on high was .92A, your S10 is the same. The question is: are these both 400 LM lights (S15 simply rated incorrectly) or am I missing something?

Cheers,

Marc

Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines!

chuckhov
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bugsy wrote:
I have the L2 version and mine still appears greenish. Is it worth replacing the lens or is it from the emitter? What lens do you use to replace the stock?

.

Hi Bugsy,

I have a newer S15 with the latest recessed switch… Still a ugly puke green.

So, I order this: (which will of course not fit a S10, but look around at their site).

http://www.kaidomain.com/Product/Details.S021428

The sickly color comes from both the Heavily overcoated Olight lens, And the Emitter. – After switching the lens, I would estimate that the tint is 1C…. So, changing the lens out makes the light at least useable to me, but an emitter swap would make it even better – No use in swapping emitters Without a lens change, as it will sickly color whatever you put in there. – Case in point: They made a Ti model in Neutral that was Even Worse, if you can imagine that Sad

The SS bezel will most likely be Tight! – To remove it, I took one of those really sticky mailing envelops that the Chinese are fond of sending us stuff in… place it in your hand, and Press the bezel down into the sticky part HARD, and turn. – Came right off! – Take a thin knife blade and ‘gently’ lift a side at a time of the lens out, blue/red ‘O-Ring’ and all – Do Not Pry!

Do this First so that you can know exactly what diameter your S10 lens is…. Look around on the KD site – They sell Lots of lenses!

So why did I even bother fooling with this little S15? – I LOVE Everything about it, except for that Putrid tint!

I’m pretty happy now. – Wish that I had the skills to do a swap to a 3D. To me, that would make it Perfect! Smile

I hope this helps,
-Chuck

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I’ve had mine for nearly 2 years with no problems to mention. The magnet is useful, until I forgot and set it down on a lathe. Pocket full of steel shavings every now and then.

I use an Eagletac 750 mAh 16340 in mine. It’s fine lengthwise but I had to peel off the eagletac sticker to get it to fit.

Mine is an XM-L2 version, but it has a smooth reflector.

The clip broke the day I got it, but a month or so later I contacted olight and they sent a new one for free. Warranty still valid !

Curiosity killed the cat……But I’m not a cat…..

Lightgecko
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marcl wrote:
Hi Flashlion,

I have a question I hope you can answer.

The S10 is 400 lumens, the S15 is 280 lumens and has been slated, wrongly in my opinion, for only having 280 LM. However when I read a review of the S15, I think it was from self build, he mentioned the tail cap reading on high was .92A, your S10 is the same. The question is: are these both 400 LM lights (S15 simply rated incorrectly) or am I missing something?

Cheers,

Marc

Was the S15 drawing 920ma on a 14500? If it were drawing that from a single AA it would be a much lower wattage because of the lower voltage, and therefore probably 280 lumens.

Curiosity killed the cat……But I’m not a cat…..

marcl
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Lightgecko wrote:
marcl wrote:
Hi Flashlion,

I have a question I hope you can answer.

The S10 is 400 lumens, the S15 is 280 lumens and has been slated, wrongly in my opinion, for only having 280 LM. However when I read a review of the S15, I think it was from self build, he mentioned the tail cap reading on high was .92A, your S10 is the same. The question is: are these both 400 LM lights (S15 simply rated incorrectly) or am I missing something?

Cheers,

Marc

Was the S15 drawing 920ma on a 14500? If it were drawing that from a single AA it would be a much lower wattage because of the lower voltage, and therefore probably 280 lumens.

Yes, 14500 it was the cell that came with it. It was the S15R. Self built also measured 360 LM, which is damn close to the 400 of the S10. It wouldn’t be the first time Olight does this, the i6 I have puts out more than 420 LM and the Warrior does not put out the 950lm they state.

Marc

Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines!

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