http://intl-outdoor.com/boostbuck-318v-triple-xml-circuit-board-p-542.html
And could anyone weigh in the following application for it? Any tips?
I’ve ordered a second TR-3t6 to part out to drive with a 30w 3-16vac magneto.
First off, is it possible to supply that 3~18 volt input intl-outdoor driver directly through a Schottky full wave bridge rectifier from the 3~18 volt AC output trailbike/enduro magneto? If not, I’m contemplating the following.
I had previously been expecting to use these two items to drive 3 xm-l LEDs, diyed from mounted stars and computer scrap heatsink, from that source.
I was never confident enough about how those parts were chosen to start applying power to things. Whether I needed a smoothing cap between the rectifier and the regulator, whether I needed a Schottky diode full wave rectifier because that 3 volts was already too weak at the low end, what voltage to actually send to the series XM-Ls with the regulator. An outboard resistor is selected/applied to the regulator to pass a set voltage.
From the little that I comprehend, the LED’s see a constant voltage and variable amperage to operate. So I had no good idea beyond wiring the regulator to send the 3.3v voltage - forward @ max current that XMLBWT-00-0000-000HT30E7 lists on its datasheet to three of them wired in series.
Shifting focus to the 3t6, I will replace its T6 xm-ls with my warmer 3X 3000k XMLBWT-00-0000-000HT30E7 wired in series, applying thermal paste where appropriate. I’ll get a Shottky rectifier from digikey and adjust the digikey regulator to provide its peak 5.5vdc to that intl-outdoor driver. The digikey regulator is rated 6amps max output.
http://intl-outdoor.com/boostbuck-318v-triple-xml-circuit-board-p-542.html
This driver is already designed to send appropriate voltage to the leds. Adding the benefit of mode/power selections using a momentary switch is a bonus.
What would be interesting as well would be to identify a resistor on that driver that might be replaced with a minature trim pot accessed with miniature flathead via a tiny hole in the flashlight head under a rubber plug. A much more custom full power setting might thereby be made available.
PS…. in any final analysis am I unable to run an xm-l smd, with a typical forward voltage of 2.9v, from a 3vac min source? Is there no remedy for that short of installing a battery, which I’m reluctant to do (added cost, weight, replacement cost, complication etc)? The bike has no other power needs beyond the headlamp and taillamp and brake light. The latter two will be replaced by direct fit cool http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/bayonet-bulbs/ba9s-led-bulb-1-led/4/